View Full Version : Hz Frontend. Dissasembly.
13-08-02, 10:29 AM
Just afew questions. I'm taking apart the suspension on my Hz (gts 4door) because afew bushes need replacing.
I only have the Hz supplement manual which doesn't include suspension. The pins off the ball joints are still solidly stuck in the wheel centre even with the lock nuts removed, I was wondering whether i need to press them apart? (ie hydrualic jack). How does it work? Any help would be good.
Question on springs. When under load one side was riding 20mm lower than the other, but standing the springs next to each other they stand the same height, does this mean there just worn out. Which brand would you recomend to replace them with? Monroe shocks btw.
Ok, PUT THE BALL JOINT NUTS BACK ON BEFORE YOU DIE!! The lower control arm is under constant tension from the spring.
I'm not entirely sure on where you are at with the dissasembly, but the kingswood front end can be tricky.
Put a trolley jack under the lower control arm and take a little bit of the weight (say 5mm). loosten the upper and lower ball joint nuts say 5mm each but DO NOT remove them completely.
You will be best off to use a ball joint splitter, this is a "Y" shaped prong that fits between the stub upright and the ball joint and you belt the bollocks off it with a large hammer. once it has separated, you can remove the nuts and gently lower the lower control arm with the jack. repeat the process with the top ball joint.
alternatively, sometimes you can get away with not using the ball joint splitter by belting the area where the ball joint stud passes thru the stub upright. this can shock the ball joint stud loose. DONT hit the ball joint or the thread, as this can wedge it for good.
Once you have separated the lower ball joint, you can take the shock out and lower it right down, and safely pull the spring out. If you separate the lower ball joint without the nut on there, there's a fair chance of either having the lower control arm remove some really importaint pink bits, or have the spring fly out at 200kph headed right for your nads.
Just because two springs sit at the same height once theyre off the vehcle doesnt mean they are both ok, usually they lose their strength after a few years, particuarly the drivers side.
Lovells and King springs have very good reputations and are relatively cheap. Kings are my personal preference.
check the upper and lower control arm bushes, if these are worn this can change the ride height significantly too.
If you need to change a lower ball joint, let me know and I'll tell you the trick to these as well :D
13-08-02, 12:08 PM
Cheers, Big help. I'll go grab myself on of those ball joint splitter things.
Ready to cringe? I have removed the bolts off the bottom A-frame and with the swaybar and shock unbolted (shock then rotated 90 degrees to fit through the a frame) I was able to lower the aframe to remove the spring that way. The top aframe is still connected. I have taken the nuts off the balljoints :( was like that over night. So the bottom aframe has been hanging off the ball joints with no nuts over night, I didn't bother on the other side though. I'm sure with your advice i will get it apart though.
The bushes look pretty bad I recon they could have abit to do with the ride hieght.
*peeks out from behind the concrete bunker*
Geez, you were game! LOL!
Yeah, you'll find life much easier with the right tools. You will need a press to change the control arm bushes though, there's really no way around that unfortunately. Most likely the bushes are a big part of the ride height problem, but if you can afford it, it would make a big difference to your car to fit some new springs and a sway bar.
have fun! :p
13-08-02, 05:35 PM
The balljoint lever was the ticket. Like a giant 16" fork with only 2 prongs. I had to do a fair bit of hammering but i got them all apart.
Thanks a million.
No problem mate! thats why we're all here! :p Post some pics of the car when your done!
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