VT Commodore Calipers/DBA Rotors into LX Torana

[Feenix]

Alas, ye olde Kinga HX brakes don't stoppeth thy LX Torana Improved production race car too well.

As pictured below:

http://www.hi-powered.net/misc/padfailure.jpg

I should mention that this is only one one wheel, the others held up fine, however because the left front is the one that cops the most work around QLD raceway, keeping it cool is a bit of an issue.

We're looking at fitting VT rotors to the car, however there's a few concerns.

1. Will the assembly fit in 15in rims?

2. A conversion from CRS costs about $625 if we supply drum brake stub axles - aparently needed for the conversion. One of the more engineering capable guys has suggested machining down the old (destroyed braking surface due to the above) DBA slotted Kingswood rotor to make a hub for the VT rotors. This has me a bit concerned as to the strength and reliability of doing this, since I know even simply drilling a rotor yourself can be hazardous and lead to catestrophic failure. Would there be any dangers in doing this, assuming it was done by a competent machinist?

3. Can anyone vouch for the above CRS conversion? VT commodore rotors/calipers into torana or kingswood (both the same).

4. Will DBA drilled and slotted rotors be suitable for full race use, presuming normal precautions are taken re: warming up the brakes, proper cool down etc? Currently we run slotted only and cooling is a bit of a concern.

Any help appreciated.

'nix

[RB26DETT]

ok
there are 2 kits avalable for the toranas theres the drum brake stubs machined down to fit the HQ rotors, and the new stubaxes made to fit holden rotors ie VL.

the HQ kit iss good but witht he holden barke caliper i have been told that there is clearenc issues with the rims hence why i want to run VT SS rim on my torana (see the post title HQ ROTORS), i entend running the VX 2 spot calipers instead of the VT onces for improved brakin performance

the new stub axes are by far the best as you are able to use the VL disks and the vl turbo calepers and that so you have a very good brakin package

hope this helps ya out dude

[Feenix]

The new stub axles are made by who?

the VT ones we're looking at are twin piston...

'nix

[RB26DETT]

CRS make thim i think
http://www.rodshop.com.au/photos/loridestubs.jpg
rod tech in adelaide make them

there 2' drop spindles my bro has them in his hot rod, they work a real treat
my bro has Vl DBA gold rotors with VR clepers (i think there VR)

[Bishop]

Hoppers Stoppers do brake conversion kits for older holdens

http://www.hoppers.com.au/brakes.htm

Bishop

[dbasteve]

Originally posted by Feenix
Alas, ye olde Kinga HX brakes don't stoppeth thy LX Torana Improved production race car too well.

I should mention that this is only one one wheel, the others held up fine, however because the left front is the one that cops the most work around QLD raceway, keeping it cool is a bit of an issue.

We're looking at fitting VT rotors to the car, however there's a few concerns.

1. Will the assembly fit in 15in rims?

2. A conversion from CRS costs about $625 if we supply drum brake stub axles - aparently needed for the conversion. One of the more engineering capable guys has suggested machining down the old (destroyed braking surface due to the above) DBA slotted Kingswood rotor to make a hub for the VT rotors. This has me a bit concerned as to the strength and reliability of doing this, since I know even simply drilling a rotor yourself can be hazardous and lead to catestrophic failure. Would there be any dangers in doing this, assuming it was done by a competent machinist?

3. Can anyone vouch for the above CRS conversion? VT commodore rotors/calipers into torana or kingswood (both the same).

4. Will DBA drilled and slotted rotors be suitable for full race use, presuming normal precautions are taken re: warming up the brakes, proper cool down etc? Currently we run slotted only and cooling is a bit of a concern.

Any help appreciated.

'nix

For serious racing the hubs should be made from steel.
People have machined down hub type rotors for conversions many times before for street use, but its not ideal.

Cross Drilled rotors are not suitable for racing and you will find that slotted discs are standard for most classes. The heat loads from race conditions accelerate fatigue and cross drilled rotors are more likely to crack than standard or slotted. Cams have baned the use of any cross drilled rotor in some classes.

Cross drilled rotors are great street performance rotors but not for racing.

Braking can be inproved by trying hotter pads if you haven't already done so. Also cooling ducts into the rotor work very well and it isn't very expensive to do.

[Feenix]

Thanks for the tips DBA steve.

We currently run slotted however were looking for ways to take out the heat load. We do run large ducts to the front and rear brakes.

I'll let the boys know on the hub verdict.

Thanks again

'nix