View Full Version : Warming up engine..
bthology
15-06-05, 02:43 AM
Hi i know this might have been discussed before, some of us have no time or are damn TOO lazy to warm up our cars (if we wake up late, late for work..etc)
My car is a 1984 Mazda 626 (yea old shitbox) when the choke is on max its around 2000rpm, i wanted to know if it made any difference with me driving it under 2000rpm, and leaving it to warm up.. would it cause much damage if i drive and dont rev past 2000 rpm? It may be a bit slow but i start work very late when not many cars are on the road.
cheers.
VW manual reccomds never warming up your car by letting it sit idling, but driving it gently untill it is warm
Never let it warm up. Waste of time and money and much worse for the engine (unless it is something really exotic that has off the scale oil pressure (ie Cosworth with dry sump)
Start, wait for oil light to go off, drive gently till it warms up. That means stay away from redline!
Muz
Weightz
18-06-05, 04:59 PM
When I had my VH commodore.
I noticed when I started it up it had bad tappet noise.
The pressure gauge would read zero and after a few seconds the oil pressure would go up and the noise would go away.
So I tried kicking the motor over without it starting up.
Started motor oil pressure up straight away no tappet noise.
Same with the rolla I don`t kick it over straight away.
The oil light goes out straight away.
Try it. The oil pressure is there straight away so oil is at the top of the motor when you kick the motor over.
Then drive as Muz said, no redline. :)
tandy ass
18-06-05, 05:38 PM
Weightz - it makes no difference if you're just cranking or with the motor idling. With the starter going you can't hear the tappet noise. What you may find is the oil warning light is disconnected while the engine is cranking just as most other electrical accessories are.
off topic. But I seen an old guy at the shops one day turn the key and soon as it fired he give it about half throttle hit the limiter twice holding it at high RPM for about 10seconds fan belt squealing and with smoke pouring out of the exhaust he drove off the car was a 2002 hyundai lantra.
TonyJZX
18-06-05, 05:57 PM
off topic. But I seen an old guy at the shops one day turn the key and soon as it fired he give it about half throttle hit the limiter twice holding it at high RPM for about 10seconds
A lot of old farts think their Camrys and Hyundais deserve the same treatment as their choke driven Humbers and Hillmans 50 years ago.
T.
Weightz
18-06-05, 05:57 PM
Weightz - it makes no difference if you're just cranking or with the motor idling. With the starter going you can't hear the tappet noise. What you may find is the oil warning light is disconnected while the engine is cranking just as most other electrical accessories are.
The car was started (motor running) It was tappet noise.
No starter motor engauged.
I was talking about when the motor is running.
When I started it up, motor running, tappet noise, oil pressure gauge on zero
oil gauge when up tappet noise gone.
crank engine first a couple of turns, then kick over, oil pressure is up before starting not after starting.
And as Bill just added in his post until the water temp starts to move on the guage
I tend to start it, and let it idle for maybe 2 mins before giving it a small rev, about half throttle, and driving off.
Gab
Weightz
18-06-05, 09:19 PM
I tend to start it, and let it idle for maybe 2 mins before giving it a small rev, about half throttle, and driving off.
Gab
I do that as well drops the revs down to about 1200. Better that taking off at 2000.
Billzilla
18-06-05, 10:01 PM
I start the engine, run it just above idle until the water temp starts to move on the guage then drive away slowly.
I try to keep the revs down for the first ten minutes or so, then build it up over the next ten minutes or so if I'm going to drive it hard.
Tripper
18-06-05, 10:24 PM
Depends or the car if its the everyday shitter i thrash it frome stone cold, if its the stang im building it will get the F1 treatment, external oil heater.
Just depends on how much you care for it, and/or how much money you spent on it.
Dont get me wrong my Stang is going to be nothing but a weekend car, but after putting in money to make a ricer show car look like poket change, every cent is worth it ,
Jason Broadhurst
18-06-05, 10:51 PM
I cant be bothered, i dont red line it, but i dont keep it under 2 grand or idle it... my car is for driving not babying
Stix Zadinia
18-06-05, 11:44 PM
When I started it up, motor running, tappet noise, oil pressure gauge on zero
oil gauge when up tappet noise gone.
crank engine first a couple of turns, then kick over, oil pressure is up before starting not after starting.
And as Bill just added in his post until the water temp starts to move on the guage
how do you turn your engine over without starting? do you actually get out and physcially turn it? why bother? shouldn't cars start in the first couple of revolutions anyway?
i start my car, and wait a few minutes before driving off and keeping it under 2000rpm. i've taken my oil cap off before and watched how long it takes for oil to get to my cam lobes, i timed it at about 1min 30.. so that's about how long i idle for, and god damn it's a big oil system (8 litres+)
Weightz
19-06-05, 12:19 AM
how do you turn your engine over without starting? do you actually get out and physcially turn it? why bother? shouldn't cars start in the first couple of revolutions anyway?
i start my car, and wait a few minutes before driving off and keeping it under 2000rpm. i've taken my oil cap off before and watched how long it takes for oil to get to my cam lobes, i timed it at about 1min 30.. so that's about how long i idle for, and god damn it's a big oil system (8 litres+)
Easy turn the key and let the motor have a couple of revolutions without starting, turn the key off before motor starts , Then start as usual.
Have u got a pressure gauge in your car if u have,
Start it as usual and watch the gauge and see what happens.
Next day cold start turn the key and let the motor have a couple of revolutions (or more seeing you have 8 litres) without starting,then start as
usual and watch the gauge and see what happens.
As I said in my post the VH would have tappet noise when I started it and gauge would be on zero then build up pressure and noise would go away (oil pressure up).
So in other words I got oil pressure stright away instead of it building up.
Try it. :)
I do the same with the rolla a few revolutions without letting it start,
start as usual the oil light doesn`t stay on waiting for oil pressure it build up,
it is already there. works u me.
Stix Zadinia
19-06-05, 12:37 AM
yeah, but the thing is my car won't turn over a few times, it normally catches pretty much after i hit the key (like they should) - i don't think i'll be getting oil pressure to the top of the case, i would be cranking and switching off for quite a while
i just fix my tappets/hydraulic lifters/cam lobes etc when they get noisy, or go to a thicker oil.
just start the bastard, let it run for a couple of minutes so everything has a nice flow of oil, then drive it gently until it's warm. don't load it up and don't rev it too hard.
Stix Zadinia
19-06-05, 12:46 AM
ooo ooo or you could buy some of that stuff from bright ideas, that rehones cylinders and stuff. and reverses years of engine wear..
maybe mix it with some magnatec and you'll have an engine that never wears out!
VW manual reccomds never warming up your car by letting it sit idling, but driving it gently untill it is warmSame thing in the M3 manual.
The Fiat motor is making over 30 pounds within ~3 seconds of firing. I get in and drive it straight away, keeping the revs as low as possible without labouring the motor. The water temp gets up real quick (factory bypass system works a treat) but the oil temp takes considerably longer.
karl_2ltGC
19-06-05, 01:34 PM
Any car i own, fire it up, idle for about 5 secs, then take off the road shifting around 2-3grand. Nothing more than 1/2throttle until i see a bit of water temp, then just drive as you wish.
I used to warm up my car for a minute or two, but after reading this thread have found it is a WOFTAM (waste of fu$king time an money) so i just gently drive it to the temp gauge is off the 'C'. Cheers for the advice.
Adsy.
dougiefresh
19-06-05, 02:00 PM
I thought the point of warming the car up was to allow the oil to warm up - not for oil pressure?
Car manurfacturers advise not to sit the car at idle and allow the engine to warm up for concern over carbon monoxide build up rather than being better or worse for the engine.
Crash Dummy
19-06-05, 04:10 PM
These days i fire up the Astra let it idle for about 30 seconds while i look around me make sure i'm not going to run over anything, stick something in the CD player and generally get comfortable. By the time i get out of my home town to the highway my temp gauge is registering a couple of mm above cold then i'm a little more willing to get up it. Thats about 4 minutes before i'll give it a little poke but still won't rev it hard.
Same thing in the M3 manual.
Doesnt need to be fancy european cars to hvae that printed in the manual!
My 85 corolla says that too :p
Doesnt need to be fancy european cars to hvae that printed in the manual!
My 85 corolla says that too :p
Fair enough. I just remember specifically seeing it in my fancy european car manual. I don't remember reading it in the VL manual or the camira manual before that. Was probably in there though.
My point was simply that BMW say not to let an engine idle to warm up.
Although carbon monoxide may be an concern, idling to warm up will take longer and the most damage is done when an engine/oil etc is cold.
TonyJZX
19-06-05, 07:01 PM
By the time I put on my driving glasses, leather gloves, put on a good mp3 track on me ipod, wait for the garage door to go up, the electric gate to open, that's one minute already.
T.
Weightz
21-06-05, 06:29 PM
I thought the point of warming the car up was to allow the oil to warm up - not for oil pressure?
Yes u are right but no oil pressure- car no go or u fuck it.
So are u saiding if the car is warming ok and the oil light is still on (with no oil pressure) you will drive it. I don`t thing so, I would be smart and check the oil (so oil pressure is important on start up)
Weightz
21-06-05, 06:34 PM
yeah, but the thing is my car won't turn over a few times, it normally catches pretty much after i hit the key (like they should) - i don't think i'll be getting oil pressure to the top of the case, i would be cranking and switching off for quite a while
i just fix my tappets/hydraulic lifters/cam lobes etc when they get noisy, or go to a thicker oil.
Maybe not, why not try it. :)
Oil viscosity changes with temperature. It's not lubing properly unless your motor is at optimum driving temperature (varies a little between models). If you've got the right oil for your car and driving environment, it's not going to work properly until it's up to temp. Pressure's not right, valve gear or piston skirts might not be being lubed properly, all that.
So a minute or two in the driveway is always helpful if you're looking after your engine, not the full warm up or anything, just a little rightness to the oil distribution.
I found modded engines are more finicky about this, with customised bearing clearances, aftermarket lifters for mountainous cams, alloy this and steel that, high volume something else all over the place. Mine would actually go out of tune if you ran it without the patient start up and give it a couple of kays before you started planting it.
But other cars I just gave about 1 minute max and let it rip. Just easy on the loading until up to temp and keep the revs down for the oil pickup whilst still thick (runs back down to the sump too slowly when cold). My VN I took a small joy in destroying, no warm ups, just start and plant. It lasted 240K for the last owner and then aged all of it in the 10K I owned it for. Bits were literally falling off in the driveway and everybody said it looked so good when I first got it...
Stupid whale-mobile deserved it.
trent from punchy
24-06-05, 01:53 AM
its illegal in germany and many other euro nations to sit idling warming up your engine.
just a little rightness to the oil distribution... Mine would actually go out of tune if you ran it without the patient start up and give it a couple of kays before you started planting it.
Mate, that was some wild shit you just posted. Running out of tune due to a lack of rightness in the oil.- Do you work at Hiclone?
Muz
Oil viscosity changes with temperature. It's not lubing properly unless your motor is at optimum driving temperature (varies a little between models).
I agree with this but believe that it applies to not just the engine oil but driveline as well. Something I was taught when I was an apprentice at TAFE (many moons ago). I warm my engine up every morning for a couple of minutes then drive off taking it easy so that all components are warm and lubricated properly.
That said, oil technology has significantly improved over the years and its not as critical as it once used to be. I prefer to be safe than sorry.
:)
benny_pulsar_e
30-06-05, 09:28 AM
Start it up, back out garage, get my work bag and just drive.
I just keep the gear changes under 3k rpm for bout 10mins.
Asteroid
01-07-05, 12:39 AM
If i don't warm up my diesel Corolla for a few minutes in the mornings, it doesn't go anywhere! Plus i have a very thick oil in it, so i give it a 2-4 minutes (depending on how cold it is) to get the engine oil around and build up a bit of temperature so the fuel combusts reasonably well and actually makes some power. After that it takes 3-4 minutes of driving to get the temp gauge up to normal operating temperature and running reasonably well. Another 10 minutes or so of driving and the engine is running nicely and making good power.
On the plus side, it tends to hold the heat resonably well, so when i start it in the afternoon for the drive home, it makes full power after only a few minutes of driving.
Of course it's a diesel, so all conventional wisdom is thrown out the widow. :cool:
Asteroid
Depends or the car if its the everyday shitter i thrash it frome stone cold
I second that.
Sigma = Daily Shitter - Start it up, wait for oil light to turn off, and full throttle away
GSR = Good car - Start it up, let it idle for 2mins, get water temp up to around 30-40 degrees and take it easy until it gets to operating temp.
Bigfuzz posted the right answer in the 3rd post, modern multigrade oils allow this, they are thin enough when cold that they will still flow well, and your motor will be properly lubricated within a few seconds of turning the key. Plus the quickest way to warm your engine is to put a bit of load onto it, ie. drive it gently.
I think the whole idea of sitting idling the engine up to temperature goes back to when everything used carbies & plenty of cars were comlplete pigs to drive when cold, flatspotting & stalling untill the manifold got warm enough to atomise the fuel properly at lower revs.
Ben Wilson
04-07-05, 08:42 AM
I let mine warm up for a few minutes in the mornings.
Winter in Canberra - It allows the windows to demist nicely and gets the inside of the car comfortably warm.
I always laugh at the morons driving around peering through a 2" hole in the ice in the windscreen because they didn't have time to let the car warm up before they left....
If I let my car warm up before I drive it, then I can thrash it earlier while I am driving it. Surely that makes the most sense?
FastEHHolden
10-07-05, 04:27 PM
By the time my car starts it has 20 psi on the guage...I give it 5 mins warmup in the morning..maybe 1 in the arvo.
Car is LPG EH with 173....takes a while for the gas to go thru....20 secs maybe
I think it depends on the age of the car...if its an old carby car..let it warm up..if its a new injected car..just drive it.
i have no idea about these old school carbie cars so can someone let me know whats going on. On my mums corolla when we first got the car once u turn the key it would start sweet, some auto choke would function oddly and make the engine rev higher, sometimes even insanely high a push on the thorttle would return it back to normal. After a few months the choke would selectively work and now it never goes on. Now start up is horrible and u have to do try starting it at least 2 - 3times before it starts and once it does the car would want to stall lol. What can i do to fix this so its easier to start in the morning.
Auto chokes on carbs are a spring loaded deal. generally, you push the throttle to the floor all the way once, that lets the fast idle cam get under the linkage and lets the choke plate close over. The fast idle part obviously keeps the idle high until a bi metallic coil spring starts opening the choke and reducing the idle. To let it off the fast idle you need to blip the throttle lightly, or it will do it itself as you drive quietly off.
If it is playing up it is probably dirty or sticky- with the car off spray all the external linkages with carby cleaner, then run the engine and wash all the insdies of the carb for good measure.
Muz
Even my old 1985 Bimmer says not to let the car idle to warm it up. I just start it drive it out softly and give it grief once it gets to full temp. Until then I just putter.
tremolo
26-06-08, 02:07 PM
Blast from the past...
Was thinking about this. I usually let my Alfa warm up for about 2 mins before I drive it. It doesn't like the cold weather when it's not up to temperature, it gets a bit spluttery (and the first few gear changes are rough). So it certainly feels a lot better after a brief warm up, but is it doing more harm than good?
Billzilla
26-06-08, 02:13 PM
Nah it's fine.
matty12
26-06-08, 03:18 PM
I try to let mine idle for a bit,100psi when cold is pretty much the limit of fucking my oil pressure gauge.
suzuki dave
26-06-08, 06:55 PM
most morning ill sit idle for 30 seconds , back out , cruise down the road 200 metres then get on the motorway and bounce it off the limiter ...
leaving work , start car up back out , first break in traffic bounce it off the limiter.
is this wrong ? does my car hate me ?
bthology
26-06-08, 08:10 PM
Didn't brocky say in an ad that the damage happens in the first 10 minutes of driving?
Same thing in the M3 manual.
same thing with daihatsu
i start my car and drive away. as long as my "engine cold" light is on, i don't floor it, and try to keep below the 4K mark. . . when the light's off, i try to keep calm for the next minute or two, then i just drive like the situation allows.
and the light goes out in about a minute or something . . but the dealer said the light really is the oil temp, rather than the coolant. . . . pretty strange, no?
but letting the car idle for x time, isn't that just a waste of said x time?
curmudgeon
29-06-08, 12:13 PM
I found modded engines are more finicky about this, with customised bearing clearances, aftermarket lifters for mountainous cams, alloy this and steel that, high volume something else all over the place. Mine would actually go out of tune if you ran it without the patient start up and give it a couple of kays before you started planting it.
Oh FFS this is getting fucking ridiculous. Just drive off and be gentle for a few minutes. Is it really that hard?
RB30-POWER
29-06-08, 12:14 PM
fark what a bunch on pansies, i start my cars, wait for oil light to extinguish, then try to keep under 4-5k rpm until near full temp, then i am happy to keep it on the limiter all day.
only cars i have ever had to warm up are old carby pieces of shit, where as i will start up with choke, then hold at very very high rpm, no limiter in these crap boxes, to hurry the fucker up to warm up anyway.
ps. carbies suck the cock!
Billzilla
29-06-08, 01:29 PM
.... until near full temp, then i am happy to keep it on the limiter all day.
Does everyone not realise that water temperature does not equal oil temperature?? The oil temperature is the critical thing as it is directly related to viscosity. I've seen a few engines shred themselves because of being driven too hard when cold.
Water temp means little, the oil temp takes a good ten minutes or so after the water temp is stable (a generalisation) to come up to the point where it's safe to run the engine hard. Sometimes longer.
peugeot 305, RB gemini, VS commodore.. all of these are cars that i have found to be MUCH better to drive if you give them 30 seconds to settle before you start driving them...
the pug would be a cunt for the whole trip if you tried to drive it straight away.. rough idle etc.. i have no idea why, it didnt seem to idle any higher or anything in that time
the commodore would just be more likely to move without complaining (the rough idle rarely went away), and in the gemini, again, 30 seconds with the auto choke on just made it work properly straight off.
the fiat always used to take some time to prepare itself for a trip unless the weather was stinking hot... on one setup it'd take up to 10 mins before it'd even idle on its own (although that was particularly bad, it'd also flood at traffic lights and if you shifted too slowly)... but it was never really set up right anyway.. after i injected it, it was a different story for the first month or two, but it was running fairly rich, so once everything started to foul up it went back to being a pain..
i'm yet to work out what the ute likes.. as others have said, by the time you find a radio station/cd, put your belt on, and basically get ready to go, its usually about 30 seconds anyway.. naturally you still don't thrash it straight off the mark
Does everyone not realise that water temperature does not equal oil temperature?? The oil temperature is the critical thing as it is directly related to viscosity. I've seen a few engines shred themselves because of being driven too hard when cold.
Water temp means little, the oil temp takes a good ten minutes or so after the water temp is stable (a generalisation) to come up to the point where it's safe to run the engine hard. Sometimes longer.
that's what i did in my applause, waited for the water to settle, then wait for another 5 or so minutes . . .
but in my materia, there's just a light, saying the "engine" is cold. it goes out pretty fast, so i asked the delaer wether it was the coolant or the oil. he guaranteed me it was the oil :)
don't trust it though . . .
Another thing to consider within this thread is ring flutter. It'll happen more at idle than anything else, and that will advance ring wear considerably - you could probalby fuck an engine (well it'd still run, but you get my drift) inside a year by idling it for 20 minutes every morning. Obviously thrashing the shit out of it is a bad idea, but slightly increased throttle and light loading is better than idle any day in terms of lowered wear and tear. I'll certainly not argue with Bill on the difference between oil and coolant temp, but I would add that a properly functioning thermostat (I replace them yearly, and I didn't come up with the idea btw, and engine reconditioner friend put me onto it, and made the convincing argument) that gets the coolant up to temp as quick as possible is a good thing in all respects, even the marginal difference in fuel mixture affecting bore wash down when cold on modern efi cars (where it's already minor)
JabberWocky
30-06-08, 01:16 PM
Car manurfacturers advise not to sit the car at idle and allow the engine to warm up for concern over carbon monoxide build up rather than being better or worse for the engine.
I'm not 100% certain but remember during thermodynamics at uni that it was completely useless to warm it up. I'll have a look for my notes after work.
I just wait for oil pressure and drive her away. You have to warm the gearbox and diff oil up to so getting a warm engine doesn't give you the green light for thrash town. Mine's an old Holden 6 anyway, so it make sit difficult to drive it until it's warm anyway.
Does everyone not realise that water temperature does not equal oil temperature?? The oil temperature is the critical thing as it is directly related to viscosity. I've seen a few engines shred themselves because of being driven too hard when cold.
Water temp means little, the oil temp takes a good ten minutes or so after the water temp is stable (a generalisation) to come up to the point where it's safe to run the engine hard. Sometimes longer.
Good point I think. What I wonder is - what is an acceptable oil temp? My track toy runs about 65C on the freeway thanks to the big oil cooler it needs on the track - is this too cold? I'm thinking maybe 80 - 90C is optimum?
Billzilla
01-07-08, 04:14 AM
Good point I think. What I wonder is - what is an acceptable oil temp? My track toy runs about 65C on the freeway thanks to the big oil cooler it needs on the track - is this too cold? I'm thinking maybe 80 - 90C is optimum?
Normal running temperature is about 10°C warmer than the water temp, though I'd like to see at least 80°C before giving the engine a hard time.
But again that's a generalisation, some engine can easily take less, others are more fussy as they have critical clearances, etc.
You want it warm enough to be able to evapourate/boil off any condensation that gets in there to remember.
Mostly I just wait until theres oil pressure, then drive off and drive fairly calmly for the first few minutes/kms. Once the car shows operating temp for a while then I'd be game to get up it. But yeah..not one for leaving the thing sitting idling for 10 minutes before I go somewhere.
The R31 is a real pain in the arse, seems to have some ecu controlled warmup/cold start stuff, i.e. runs rich as f#ck (wrong side of 10:1) before the temp gauge clears about 1/4, appears to shift the airflow cut down a few psi and a couple of thousand RPM. Once up to operating temp its all systems go.
The R31 is a real pain in the arse, seems to have some ecu controlled warmup/cold start stuff, i.e. runs rich as f#ck (wrong side of 10:1) before the temp gauge clears about 1/4, appears to shift the airflow cut down a few psi and a couple of thousand RPM. Once up to operating temp its all systems go.
RB ECUs do that. Mine has a distinct change of personality almost the instant the water gauge gets to half way. The sync between the ECU and the gauge is quite eerie. Below that it is rich and soft. If the change happens when the engine is under load it is like an extra 3 psi of boost and 20 degrees of advance. In my car, in winter, it can take a bloody long time to get that warm though. Fucken' RBs.
RB30-POWER
01-07-08, 04:42 PM
fuckin cast iron rb engines, takes forever to warm up anyway, i can be half way to work before the bastard is full up to temp.
new cars with alloy blocks and computer designed water jackets etc can show full temp on the guage before i get up the first hill, big difference!
What about warm up times for forged pistons? (e.g wiseco)
Mine rattle a little until 40-45C coolant temp, and with canberra mornings it can take a couple mins to get it that warm.
I hear they are better at handling cold temps these days though.
remember that 1/4 on the guage of 31/32/33 is 80c :)
my rb takes a good 10 minutes to heat up, and with the heater on in the car and coasting down hill for 5km straight the fucker goes cold again!
Jason Broadhurst
04-07-08, 11:28 AM
RB's run a fair lot of coolant temp enrich aswell, and without it are pigs in the morning.
Some ECU's even have a cold limiter, but you find they are dangerous and anoying.
TonyJZX
04-07-08, 11:51 AM
yeah RBs are shit
they run very slack on cold
once hot they are fairly off the chain
rb's love cold air and pretty hot oil temp
Is cold seizure ever a problem with giving a car engine too hard a time before it's warm? Or does that tend to be limited to two strokes?
RB30-POWER
04-07-08, 08:11 PM
dunno, but maybe we could try putting a monoweight 60 grade oil on a low km car (so the tolerances are still tight) that specifies 0w-20 and see if its possible, will need to be around 0degC ambient temp at time of test and we shall pin it to the limiter on first start up, then post vid on youtube of results?
Tripsss
07-07-08, 07:39 AM
Curious question....based on what has been posted its the oil pressure and temp that is most important when warming up a car. The cooling system has a thermostat which contains the flow within the engine until hot where as the oil setup does not. Would there be a difference in warming up a turbo car?
In my case im running a larger turbo and a 13 row oil cooler. I get good oil pressure within seconds of startup but the oil needs to travel alot further - as opposed to coolant. Could this effect the engine on startup?
Jason Broadhurst
07-07-08, 08:17 AM
Some cars run oil thermostats in the coolant system. There is still a bypass to keep the motor oiled obviously, but the cooler doesn't see flow till about 80 degrees like a glycol thermostat.
I start the car, rev it to 5K and then shift from neutral to drive. Works a treat
RB30-POWER
07-07-08, 04:43 PM
for anyone unsure how to start their cars and warm up, this demonstrational video may help you
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ezA1AIWRg_Q
xbgs351
07-07-08, 05:21 PM
Curious question....based on what has been posted its the oil pressure and temp that is most important when warming up a car. The cooling system has a thermostat which contains the flow within the engine until hot where as the oil setup does not. Would there be a difference in warming up a turbo car?
In my case im running a larger turbo and a 13 row oil cooler. I get good oil pressure within seconds of startup but the oil needs to travel alot further - as opposed to coolant. Could this effect the engine on startup?
I run a thermostat for my oil cooler, why don't you?
anyone here find their engine temperature drops alot when going coasting down hill for a long time(5+ minutes) ?
been noticing this lately and thought it was probably the heater with outside airflow going through it
probably because it's not getting any fuel at all (gm mechanical injected cars in the early 60s did that on high vac decel, surely most efi cars do?) so no heat being created other than that from whatever friction the sum total of the moving parts will experience.
TonyJZX
08-07-08, 05:12 PM
i haven't found a hill long enough to coast 5 mins
tremolo
08-07-08, 05:13 PM
My car does it in winter, if I cruise @ low rpm, steady throttle, no load etc the temp will drop. As soon as I stop/get more revs into it it goes back up. I always just figured it was the airflow and lack of engine exertion.
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