75 LA Lancer

[HoonBoy]

Time to put up some details on the Lancer

Here is how it was when it came in to my possesion, some time last centry:

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/driverssidem.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/enginebaym.jpg

Since then it has gone through these stages:


http://www.hoonboy.com/images/stripped.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/primed.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/sprayed.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/update1.JPG

It has:
- DOHC 4G32 engine with twin 40mm webers
- 5 speed
- 4.2 LSD
- Honda NSX front rotors with commodore calipers
- Sigma rear rotors with skline calipers
- Nissan Patrol master cylinder and braided brake lines on all flexible lines (all solid lines replaced)
- Coil over style scorpion front struts with adjustable konis and kmac alloy strut tops
- Reset rear leave with extra 1.5 leaves and bilstein shocks
- 6 point bolt in cage with intrusion bars
- Sparco sprint seats


The engine bay currently looks like this:

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_0214.jpg

Interior like this

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/cage2.JPG

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/cage3.JPG

The best part is I manged to take it for a drive this year, the first time in many years, pity is was only 100m up the road and now the engine has a shocking rattle :(

I may manage to finish it before the end of the century, but I doubt it :(

[08ESE]

now thats just cool, its good to see some immagination! Love what youve done with the engine, i bet the webers sound awesome!

[Ben Wilson]

Very cool - Don't give up..

[Shitbreak]

Jeeze, were the front rotors expensive?
Engine rattle, is it bearings?

Nice project, nice wheels and cage too.

[Lobster]

Looks good.
What size engine is a 4G32?

[TurboRA28]

Thats awesome LA75! I've got a mate with one identical to that. He is running a 4G63B engine and IRS rear end.

Good to see these on the road and getting built up :)

[Evo_Lee]

Very cool - Don't give up..

^^^ :yup:

I actually would like to do up a A175A with a later version of the 4G63, giving new life to where it all started :).

[HoonBoy]

I'm not giving up, just not saying when it will be finished ;)

DATZED, around $250 each for DBA slotted. If I was to do it now I can get Focus rotors for a lot less, but they wernt around when it was done. Not sure where the rattle is, I thought it was the alternator, then the main pulley, now I don't know. Need to get some time to look at it properly and figure out what is going on.

Lobster, 1.6l 8valve DOHC from 1970's Galant GTO-MR

TurboRA28, I have seen a lot of pics and details of Regina's car, am yet to see it in the flesh. He is a lot braver then me with the fabrication work!

[GAZ914]

Jamie, you are doing such a great job with the LA :yup:

I still want to come and have a look at a real live 4G32 twin cam one day :D

Rattle doesn't sound good... Does it sound like top or bottom end?

Any help I can give - just ask. I am a qualified auto elec/mechanic and have a fair bit of experience with Galants/Lancers/Sigmas.

Just keep plugging away.

cheers
Gaz

[Regina]

Hoonboy, Awsome car man, cannot wait till you get this running. Jelous you have taken it back to a shell and started from there. Would like to do this some time. I am going to be attending Wakefield a lot more next year, will have to try and get you to come down, loads of fun, safe environment.....
.
Cheers,
mick

[skankyjoe]

Yeah have to rate this hey, pretty damn cool.

[TonyL]

:yup: :yup: :yup: :worship: :worship:

love it.. but still 2 too many doors.. :P
any idea if the 2door guards are the same as the 4door? I assume so

have to cut much rust out?

[ALLMTR]

Me likey

Needs the motor out of RX22NV :)

I used to have a hell of a battle with one of these in the late 90's for the NSW motorkhana championship....

[AlexinPerth]

Awesome mate. My wife used to have an LB lancer when I met her.

Keep up the good work!

Alex.

[HoonBoy]

GAZ914, let us know when you are next going to Oran Park, I'm only a short drive away and can always use advise/motorvation!

Regina, I hope to get down there more this year too, even if its more flag marshalling. If you have seen the amount of effort in finding parts, you wouldn't be jealoius then...

Goofy[HSK], not too much rust in the body, but most of the panels had to be replaced and the bonnet was a nightmare with the sking having to be remoed to fix the rust in the frame. Guards have the same part number between the 2 and 4 doors.

ALLMTR, nah, its needs more power then that :) Once I get the car going and sort out the brakes/suspension (and my driving!)I will start planning/saving for the stage 2 with at least double the power of the current engine.

[HoonBoy]

I spent some time today trying to find the rattle, removed the fan belt and its still there. Oil pressure light turns off straight away as it should and there is 130ish compression on all cylinders. The timing chain was loose, but tightening it didn't make a difference to the noise.

Looks like the enigne will have to come out to check the timing gear and bottom end, then I need to decide if I want to rebuild it... :(

[Uncle Arthur]

One of the best looking small cars from that era, looks great today. The factory rallied them didn't they?

[HoonBoy]

yep, factory did very well in rallying :)

Well the engine is out of the car and mostly dismantled, the source of the noise was shot bearing on 3 and 4 :( A small dowel type thingy was found in the sump, it looks like it blocks of a casting hole in the oil gallery, so it stopped oil getting to the crank.

On the plus side, the rest of the engine appears to be in great condition and it has been bored out to 81mm (factory is 76.9mm) with high compression pistons :) I should get some pics up in the next couple of days.

[Chad]

A very nice looking car, you chose well with the colour.
Aspirated late model twin cam 4 cylinder engines in old school small cars, have a special appeal...

[Jim]

A very nice looking car, you chose well with the colour.
Aspirated late model twin cam 4 cylinder engines in old school small cars, have a special appeal...


lolz...it's actually the motor from that period of history. the twin cam came out in the Galant GTO and Lancer GSR of the early 70's. They were never sold outside of Japan AFAIK though.

[TonyL]

indeed that is a very very rare engine

[Galant GTO]

Nice little car man. I had a '73 LA coupe back in the day that I fitted with a 2.6 Astron 5spd, but always longed for a 4G32.

Can anyone help out on repro panels for a '76 Galant hardtop?? or am I living in a dream land and should start scouring the wrecking yards??

Hoon boy, where did you source the new trim and seals from, or any other parts would be very helpful.
Cheers Jas

[HoonBoy]

Wreckers are the only options for panels, I haven't seen any non-genuine Mitsu panels around and the genuine stuff dissapeared years ago. My trim is original, along with the door seals. The side window rubbers came from Clarks rubber and I am still looking for the windscreen rubbers.

The engine is officially stuffed, it needs new pistons, rods and possibly crank. The block is already overbored (but appears to be in great condition), so I don't like my odds of being able to rebuild it. Would also need custom pistons and I don't want to know how much they would be!

Now I need to decide what to do:

Option 1: try to source identical size pistons (round ones without marks on them would be good...) and new rods and use the existing block etc.

Option 2: Get another 4G32 block, rebuild with new custom pistons and add the twincam head

Option 3: Sell the bits and use a different type of engine that isn't so rare

I have no idea which option to go for at the moment :(

[Jim]

if you sell the engine let me know, i'd still love to have a play with one. AFAIK the block and crank is the same as single cam, the pistons aren't available but customs would be about $100 a slug last time I checked.

[GAZ914]

The engine is officially stuffed, it needs new pistons, rods and possibly crank. The block is already overbored (but appears to be in great condition), so I don't like my odds of being able to rebuild it. Would also need custom pistons and I don't want to know how much they would be!

Now I need to decide what to do:

Option 1: try to source identical size pistons (round ones without marks on them would be good...) and new rods and use the existing block etc.

Option 2: Get another 4G32 block, rebuild with new custom pistons and add the twincam head

Option 3: Sell the bits and use a different type of engine that isn't so rare

I have no idea which option to go for at the moment :(

Bugger!!

I reckon find a "normal" 4G32 bottom end and all is well :)
Get it bored and it'll end up at 1770 cc which would be awsome :worship:

Otherwise for the easy option, go a 4G52 (2lt Astron) less balance shafts for similar power but less interest (and probably less $$$$).

cheers
Gaz

[Jim]

Bugger!!

I reckon find a "normal" 4G32 bottom end and all is well :)
Get it bored and it'll end up at 1770 cc which would be awsome :worship:

Otherwise for the easy option, go a 4G52 (2lt Astron) less balance shafts for similar power but less interest (and probably less $$$$).

cheers
Gaz


1770 or 1705 were a good option on the 4G32.

astron? ewww... use something lighter and newer FFS.

[FatBoy]

Like a 13b ?? :)

Chin up mate, she looks great and the pain will be worthwhile after a few track days... ;)

[HoonBoy]

Here are some pics of the internals of a "rebuilt" engine that was running for less then half an hour in total:

Bearings:

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke1.jpg

Piston, they all look similar, but this one has a bit missing from the bottom of the skirt, you can feel the lip with your fingernail :(

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke2.jpg

Rods, once again they all look similar (I'm sure this is not good) the sides look like someone has had a go at cleaning them up. Also, two of them are discoloured near the rod bolts

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke3.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke6.jpg

Crank, all look the same:

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke5.jpg

Head, it all appears to be ok, the circled part is the oil squirter for the cam that was in the sump...

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/broke4.jpg

It uses a standard 4G32 block with an adapter plate for the timing gear, and domed/flycut pistons. the only other difference is the two piece baffled sump.

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/block1.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/piston1.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/sump1.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/sump2.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/sump3.jpg

[HoonBoy]

I've almost decided on selling the engine bits and putting in something else. For the amount of money it would cost to rebuils, plus the amount I could sell some stuff for, I don't see the value in sticking with this engine and then thrashing the hell out of it on the track.

I'm open to suggestions for a replacement (and offers on the parts) as long as its not an Astron! :)

[MrBishi]

4g63. You know you want to. If you left it stock turbo or even N/A your gearbox & diff should cope OK.

Any luck with the rear window seal?

[HoonBoy]

I would probably go an SR20 over the 4G63, it is built for RWD and the gearbox isn't an issue. There is no way an SR20 or 4G63 would stay stock for long either :)

I have a contact for the window seal, but I need to get the car to them, will do it once I replace the wiring on the car trailer that the dogs ate....

[TK]

Didn't read this before replying in your other thread, that motor is a bit of a rarity - if it was mine I would be tempted to fix it.
Are you sure the pistons are stuffed?, they look a little knocked around but only a micrometer will tell the full story.
If you were in Adelaide I'd tell you to bring it in, I like playing with weird stuff.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

Pistons are scored and out of round according to my verniers.

Playing with weird stuff is why I got the engine in the first place (along with it being bolt in more horsepower) but I think I have to be realistic about having a rare engine and thrashing the crap out of it. I don't want a bad batch of fuel or dodgy tuning to kill the engine and cost me several thousand dollars along with a couple of months wait for parts. Wrecker engines with bolts on FTW :)

[TK]

All pistons are out of round, they're made that way to compensate for uneven expansion when they heat up, scores don't matter (unless they're real bad).
But yeah, rare engines are a pain.
I built an 18RGU toyo engine a while ago for a dirt squirter, had to get another 18R block & bore it to suit the genuine .040" pistons that were in the original engine - new pistons are not available, welded & reground cams, porting etc.
He did 2 race meets & then forgot to put one of the air cleaners back on :knock: & dusted it - stuffed the bores & pistons - end of expensive engine.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

All pistons are out of round, they're made that way to compensate for uneven expansion when they heat up,

I was thinking that, they all seemed to be out of round the same amount which was odd to me. All cylinders did have good and equal compression.


scores don't matter (unless they're real bad).

The main one I am worried about is the skirt on this piston, it looks like a coating has come off it at the bottom. Do you think it is OK? Your starting to make me think that a few hundred on big end bearings and gaskets might be worth a shot...

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/piston2.jpg

[TK]

Hard to tell from a photo, but the skirts don't appear to be coated, that section at the bottom of the skirt is either due to a crack or it's been dropped or hit by a thrown rod at some stage - either way as long as they all measure up within .001" of each other about 3/4" from the bottom of the skirt they should be ok.
If that section is a crack you'll get away with knocking the cracked section off & cleaning up the edge (that far down it's not that critical).
If they measure up ok you can clean up the scoring with some 600 grit wet&dry - don't try & sand the scores out, just knock the high spots off - followed by a light polish with one of those green scouring pads & some thinners.
First thing is to get them measured with a micrometer by someone who knows how to do so & then decide from there.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

It doesnt seem to be cracked, but I will have a closer look at it when I get home. You can't feel the scores, and measuring down the pistons all was fine, it was only different when I moved around the pistons.

I also found out that 4G37 pistons are the same size and domed, so there may be a cheaper piston option.

[TK]

I just happen to have a catalogue with pictures of 4g37 pistons, I reckon the ones you have ARE 4g37, 4g37 nimbus to be exact (not cordia), the dome looks about right but your's have had the crowns machined a bit.
When you get home measure the compression height, 4g37 nimbus is 33.5mm (from the centre of the gudgeon hole to the flat area on the crown), yours may be a little less due to the crown being machined but if they are between 33 & 33.5mm you'll be on a winnah.

Cheers
TK

[Galant GTO]

Hey TK, where abouts in Adelaide are you and do you feel like messing around with a 2.6 for me????? Looking for about 270rwkw but cant find the time to do it myself.

[TK]

That's a fair bit for a poor ol 4g54, could do it cheap & risk a big bang, doing it right will cost $$$ (think steel rods, forged slugs etc).
I'm at someton park, near brighton, unit 4/4 byre av ph 8376 9540
Give me a call or PM & I'll see what we can work out.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

Here are the measurements from the pistons, looks like they are not 4G37 pistons :(

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/4g32dohcpiston.bmp

[TK]

18.8/2=9.4
9.4+24=33.4
crown height 5.4
They are 4g37 pistons, no doubt, you can get them in .020" oversize & reuse the block you've got with a slight rebore (another .020" won't matter).
Cost about $95 a set, + rings about $75
Machining the crowns will cost a couple of hundred, you'll just have to take them to a reputable shop along with an old piston & tell them to make the crowns match.
Fixing the motor looks fairly easy now.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

So I miss understood your directions and measured to the top of the piston... (18.8/2=9.4 + 29.4 = 38.8)

Knowing that I can get the pistons cheap, finding out that it has a copper head gasket and finding nothing wrong with the valves is going to half the cost of the build!

All I need to do now is work out how to keep the oil squirter in place and I will be a happy man!

[TK]

Loctite & centre pop, easy.
Copper head gasket FTL
ACL can make you a good head gasket, talk to your local National Parts (ACL owned distributor).

Have fun
TK

[HoonBoy]

Loctite & centre pop, easy.TK

centre pop= hammer????



Copper head gasket FTL
ACL can make you a good head gasket, talk to your local National Parts (ACL owned distributor).


The machinist I think I will use (Although I haven't spoken to them yet they have been willing to do weird stuff in the past) is on the National Parts list :)

I think I owe you many beers next time I am in Adelaide! :worship:

[Grumpy Rooster]

Maybe you should get someone to look at all the bits just to be sure. ;)

[TK]

centre pop= hammer????

Oop's, sorry, means refit the squirter with some loctite & then peen around the alloy with a centre punch & small hammer to push the alloy hard up against the squirter & lock it in.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

Maybe you should get someone to look at all the bits just to be sure. ;)

Will definetly do that, I have tracked down a spare bottom end for any bits I may need and have sources for all of the other parts which makes me more comfortable. Now I just need to get the bits to someone which is a pain when you work in the CBD :(

[GAZ914]

If you get all the bits sorted and want a hand to do the build, give me a yell.

I just finished assembling the Astron that is now in the Sigma of Death and it has about 300km and a motorkhana under its belt now without blowing up :lol:

cheers
Gaz

[Jim]

If you get all the bits sorted and want a hand to do the build, give me a yell.


same same! I love saturn motors!

[HoonBoy]

I made the decision to build it myself otherwise it would cost too much money, but I could always use a hand! :)

Will post here when I manage to get the bits to a machine shop, stupid things not open on Saturday :(

[Grumpy Rooster]

At the current rate of progress it won't be much trouble for me to give you a hand. ;)

[itsnotagsr]

Can't offer any mechanical advice, but props to you for keeping Mitsubishi history going!

[HoonBoy]

At this rate I should be able to sit back and watch whilst the engine gets assembled. Better stock up the fridge to keep the help happy:D :D

Gaz, I saw your crank scraper and it got me thinking that it would be a good time for me to make one. What material did you use and how did you cut it?

[GAZ914]

Gaz, I saw your crank scraper and it got me thinking that it would be a good time for me to make one. What material did you use and how did you cut it?

It is made of powdercoated steel, probably 1.2 mm thick (I didn't measure it!).
The material came from the side of an old oven I ripped out of the kitchen :)

I have an old filing cabinet (or what is left of it) that I have been using for rust repairs on the 914 - which I think is 0.8 mm and the steel of the oven is thicker than that but not as thick as a box I had made (for work) out of 1.6 mm.

I used a jigsaw to roughly cut the shape and then used tin-snips to do the finishing. The tin-snips only JUST cut it and my hands were cactus afterwards :lol:

I marked out the lines in the powdercoat with a scribe - which worked pretty well!

I was reasonably happy with the fit as it turned out but a laser cut one would have been nicer :D

Cost? $0 + my labour.

I had fun doing it, although I learnt/re-learnt a lot about how to measure accurately after the first one was sh*t :knock:

I would be more than happy to help you fabricate something

cheers
Gaz

[RX22NV]

It is made of powdercoated steel, probably 1.2 mm thick (I didn't measure it!).
The material came from the side of an old oven I ripped out of the kitchen :)

I have an old filing cabinet (or what is left of it) that I have been using for rust repairs on the 914 - which I think is 0.8 mm and the steel of the oven is thicker than that but not as thick as a box I had made (for work) out of 1.6 mm.

I used a jigsaw to roughly cut the shape and then used tin-snips to do the finishing. The tin-snips only JUST cut it and my hands were cactus afterwards :lol:

I marked out the lines in the powdercoat with a scribe - which worked pretty well!

I was reasonably happy with the fit as it turned out but a laser cut one would have been nicer :D

Cost? $0 + my labour.

I had fun doing it, although I learnt/re-learnt a lot about how to measure accurately after the first one was sh*t :knock:

I would be more than happy to help you fabricate something

cheers
Gaz

You can buy crank scrapers for 4g54's from the states. Cost me about $100 by the time it was landed. Bolt it up and go (after some slight trimming)

[HoonBoy]

I'm going to try and make a template out of cardboard and see how it goes. If it goes badly I will give you a yell!

I can get one from www.crank-scrapers.com/ for the 4G37, but I have no idea if it will fit the timing case area and don't want to risk $100 or more on it.

[GAZ914]

You can buy crank scrapers for 4g54's from the states. Cost me about $100 by the time it was landed. Bolt it up and go (after some slight trimming)

Yeah, I saw them but there is something to be said for "doing it yourself" :)

Cardboard is a good start.


cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

I started to partially assemble the old bits so I coudl make up the crank scraper and I think I found the reason why the pistons are damaged on the lower part of the skirts. On onse side of the engine, the skirt protudes below the bore, on the other side, the bore is slightly lower due to an oil gallery, but it looks like it hasn't been bored properly. If you turn the engine over by hand you can feel a tight spot when the pistons are at BDC. Number three piston/rod also makes a clunking noise when it goes past BDC. We knew that one of the piston/rods was doing that, but didn't know which one until now.

Now the question, can this be bored properly given that the is nothing on the other side to counteract it

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_1658.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_1668.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_1680.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_1684.jpg

[MrBishi]

Possibly easier to machine some of the piston skirt off.

[TK]

That was bored by a monkey, just about any bar can take that out no worries, someone wasn't watching what they were doing & didn't bore it down far enough.
Only thing to watch is it looks like it may be getting close to the oil gallery, have a look & see if you can figure out how much metal is left, if there's plenty then it can just be bored out when it get rebored, if it's a bit close then you may have to get them to leave the metal there & trim down the piston skirt instead.
It looks like the next bore along is fine tho, so a straight bore should be fine.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

I just dropped the dissmantled bottom end at the machinists, from the quick comparison he made, it appears that the flycuts were machined as well as the crown of the pistons. The good new is he thinks they are still usable, he is going to measure them and make sure before he does anything. If everything is usable, he will machine off the bottom of the pistons to remove the bad bits.

He had a look at the bores and it appears that they noticed they stuffed up and cleaned a bit of it up with a die grinder, they just didn't go far enough on number 3 and 4.

Everything is going to get a good measure and then depending on the pistons the decisions will be made. The rest of the bottom end looks OK, the crank will get a linish, new bearings and rings purchased and everything balanced. Whilst the engine is out, the flywheel is going to get lightened as well, I have given up on getting someone to make an aluminium flywheel.

He is also going to try and find some new rod bolts as well as head bolts, but I'm not holding my breath on them.

[GAZ914]

That is pretty good news :D

So what else is left to do once the engine is sorted?

cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

The only major mechanical bits left are modified handbrake cables and a new exhaust to replace the new-dodgy exhaust. There is still a bit of cosmetic stuff and the front and back windscreens are not in it. Got to get the engineer to sign off on everything as well...

Biggest thing holding me back was time, now I don't have a job and the biggest thing holding me back is money!

[mitsubishiman]

hope the old carb moter keeps up with ya..
i had an escort, blew the thing to peices.!!

[Regina]

its always one or the other. they are both evil

[HoonBoy]

Woohoo, just found out that the pistons can be re-used :D

They suggested getting generic high tensile cap head bolts to replace the head bolts, this doesnt sound right to me...

[GAZ914]

Woohoo, just found out that the pistons can be re-used :D

They suggested getting generic high tensile cap head bolts to replace the head bolts, this doesnt sound right to me...

Nice :D

I am no bolt expert, but I agree that a generic cap head bolt doesn't seem like the best choice. There has to be some element of design in the stretch/clamping force/expansion of the OEM bolts.

Is there an issue with the current ones?

cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

Nothing obviously wrong, but they are over 35 years old, so new ones would make me feel better.

[TK]

If they pull down to the proper torque (80-84nm) & don't feel 'soft' as they pull up they'll be fine, from memory they are a big arse fine thread bolt (could be wrong tho), you can't get new ones, but a generic hi-tensile bolt will be fine if the originals prove no good.

Cheers
TK

[HoonBoy]

They all felt good when they came out, but if I can't get new ones then I will stick with the originals.

[HoonBoy]

Picked up all my bits today, block is freshly honed, pistons cleaned up, rod bolts replaced with ARP 4G63 items and everything balanced. Now I just need to get some new gaskets etc and start putting it all back together.

[GAZ914]

Made your crank scraper yet?

[HoonBoy]

Not yet, didn't have the block around to use as a template :)

[HoonBoy]

I just finished up the work I was doing on my car trailer (16 new handmade tie down hooks, a few coats of rust proofing paint, trimming some checker plate to remove sharp edges and a spare tire mount) so now I can get back in to the crank scraper. I have the basic shape cut out and have started working on lining up the holes, damn this is fiddly work! I'm also working with slightly thicker steel then what I planned on, the neighbour had some steel just under 2mm thick that was going to the dump and the steel places around here only wanted to sell me a 2400x1200 sheet :knock: The good part is that if I trim to far I can fill it back up with the mig and try again :)

[Bogan]

What pistons did you get that were 81mm? What's the bore spacing like when you take it out to 81mm?

PM if it's easier.

Don't mind me, it appears they are 4G37 pistons that need a little machining. I'd still be interested in the bore spacing and how much is left between them. Will you be running an oil cooler? I would think I'll need one if I go that big.

T.

[HoonBoy]

I'll measure the metal between the bores when I get a chance, which won't be for a few days at least... I don't think it will be a problem as it will be the same as th 4G37 anyway. I have the fittings for an oil cooler, but I don't have one as yet, once I get it going, I will see if it is needed. There is a factory oil temp sender in it, so I will put in an oil temp guage (eventually...) along with water temp and oil pressure guages.

In other "news", I have given up on making my own crank scraper, I just don't have the time at the moment. Once I get a scan of my sump, I am sending it to the guys at www.crank-scrapers.com who are going to make me one using the standard template for the crank and my scan for the front end of the engine. I just need to decide if I want it single or double sided and with or without teflon scrapers. It's been two months since I picked up the machined bits and it's bloody annoying that I haven't got it back together yet :(

[GAZ914]

In other "news", I have given up on making my own crank scraper, I just don't have the time at the moment.

Soft :gay:

Give me a yell if you want a hand at some stage.
After this weekend, I have a little bit of free time :)

cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

I know I'm soft, but spare time is non-existant at the moment, it will be a few weeks at least before I get anything done :(

[Bogan]

Was there any issues with the 4G32 head gasket and the bigger bore? All the 4G37s I can find are belt drive and so the head gasket is no good. What have you used?

T.

[HoonBoy]

I've got a 4G32 head gasket still in the wrapper... no idea if it will fit properly. If it doesn't then I will use a 4G37 and modify the timing case section which I have to do anyone due to the twin cam timing cover.

[HoonBoy]

Finally measured the bore spacing, there is 6.6mm between cylinders. Looking from the bottom of the engine, I don't think it could be bored any further as it is almost up to the webbing between cylinders.

I looked at the head gasket as well, the good part was that the timing cover section was not included, which would save me having to cut it off. The bad part is that the gasket is smaller then the bores by 1.4mm diameter. I'm trying to find out some details in the 4G37 which I thought to be the same dimensions as the 4G32, but comparing pictures of the head gaskets, it may be a longer block. I need to find a second catalogue with better pictures as the one I am looking at doesn't seem to have consistently sized pictures.

[HoonBoy]

Got the 4G37 head gasket today, it goes on the block properly and the timing case area is not included in the gasket (even though the original picture shows it...) so I don't have to hack it up. Now I need to wait for my new torque wrench to arrive so I can assemble the engine.

Anyone need a brand new unused 4G32 headgasket??

[bigmuz]

How did I miss this thread? Nice car mate, and you are showing a lot of patience :D

Nice to have TK along for the ride too isn't it :D

I had one of these lancers which I intended to khana and hillclimb- I had a 308 and trimatic mocked up- gues what? It fits easy... BIG tunnel and decepticely large engine bay. Good luck with the engine etc etc

[HoonBoy]

I started to assemble some of the engine today, I thought the lack of torque wrench would stop me from getting to far, but it didn't matter in the end... The pistons rings are too small, the gap is over 1mm when inserted in the bores :(

Just to make sure there were no other wrong parts, I put the crank etc. in place, the tube of assembly lube split at the end so I ended up with shit everywhere :(

Then I checked the front crank seal (the in the timing cover) and the new one is the wrong size :(

Then I noticed the crank pulley, it has a crack next to the groove for the crank keyway, its different to the single cam, so now I have to see if I can get it repaired :(

I should of stayed out of the garage....

[GAZ914]

Bummer Jamie
It will all be worth it in the end.

cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

I thought going out to the garage tonight and cleaning up the head would be a good idea and keep the motorvation going, unless I'm being paranoid, I was wrong...

From what I can tell, someone has tried to clean up the combustion chambers and stuffed up a couple of cylinders leaving some messy looking area's around the spark plugs. There is also a section on #4 cylinder that looks like it has been cracked or something weird happened to it. Some of the valves also have a lot of pitting on them which doesn't look nice.

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/head2l.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/head3l.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/head4l.jpg

[HoonBoy]

A quick post so the thread is up to date:

*Engine is rebuilt and back in the car (thanks to TK for advice and pulley repair)
*40mm webers have been replaced with 45mm's
*Nitrous is now part of the plan and has been partially installed
*Fuel system is totally changed to meet the nitrous setup and a fuel cell is now in the boot between the nitrous bottle and battery box
*Water based heater has been removed, will be replaced with electric demisters
*Inlet manifold has been replaced (design based on aluminium plates cut by gravitykills with cad drawings by Belly_up)

Couple of pics:

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/bootfull.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/inletcomplete.jpg

[Ben Wilson]

Enginebaypicsorban...

[F|sh]

that manifold is messy :S

Looks like it will do the job though.

How do you find getting the nos bottle out? Is it hard or do you bend the brackets?

[HoonBoy]

Here is the latest engine bay pic I have, it doesn't have the nitrous lines or inlet manifold in it and most of the wiring is exposed so I can change it for the nitrous and new fan controller

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/enginebay.jpg

The bottle brackets open up so it's not to hard to get it out. If it becomes a problem, I will put some hinges in the middle of the brackets to make it bend easier.

[F|sh]

yeah i looked at it but didn't want to continuilly bend them open to get them out. that why we went sideways.

[Bogan]

Wakefield Supersprint this year then dude?

[Guido]

Looking all very nice and neat!

[HoonBoy]

I can't see it being ready by 1st of June, so another year of waving the flags instead of racing :(

[Jim]

I miss my LB :( I should have got that cheap one I saw and parked it a few years back. Have not seen another on the road for years! They used to be everywhere :(

Looking tops mate!

[HoonBoy]

I haven't seen mine on the road for years!

[GAZ914]

I can't see it being ready by 1st of June, so another year of waving the flags instead of racing :(

Cool, you can take thousands of photos of me again :D

Finished by 2010??

cheers
Gaz

PS: looking like a car at least, keep going :)

[Grumpy Rooster]

To be fair to Jamie the reason why the car is taking so long is because he is a fussy bastard, and everything gets done properly, with no shortcuts. I reckon he should take a photo of the fuel cell mounts. How many hours did that take us? :D

The car looks even better in the flesh. I've never really been an early Lancer fan but this car is going to be a seriously well sorted package.

[HoonBoy]

I seriously want to get the car finished and racing at Oran Park this year. I will always regret not racing at Oran Park if I don't get there before it closes. Ever since I was a teenager and living close enough to hear the racing I have wanted to race there.

Darren, I've hidden the dodgy stuff :D

[ALLMTR]

You, my friend, are the world's most patient builder...

[HoonBoy]

I'm just stubborn, there is no way this car is going to beat me and not be finished :)

[HoonBoy]

The car is winning again... engine is fucked, low compression in cylinder 1 on a dry test (fine with a wet test), oil leak from the headgasket area between 3 and 4 on the inlet side and no oil pressure :(

[FatBoy]

Fucking hell mate, that's not good... :(

Don't let it get you down. Close the garage door and forget the bloody car for a couple of weeks...

[RICE_MOBILE]

Ahh shit mate, dont worry these things are sent to test us, its being going this long, im sure another hiccup like this wont be too much of an issue. :)

Chin up.

[bigmuz]

If you haven't run the engine since a rebuild don't worry about compression test results.

Oil leak is nothing. Oil pressure might take some finding but it's probably simple.

You'll be right.

[HoonBoy]

I hope you are right about the compression, if I can fix the rest without worrying about the piston or rings, then it wouldn't be so bad.

I lost the last engine due to no oil (but it would of been shit thanks to other stuff...) so I am paranoid about the oil pressure. I can make up a shaft to turn the pump without the rest of the engine, so I will have to fiddle with that before I pull it apart.

[HoonBoy]

It runs!!!!!:D:D

In bad need of a tune and some more petrol in the tank, but it makes vroom vroom noises without me moving my mounth :D

[Grumpy Rooster]

Woohoo !!! :yup:

[TonyL]

congrats :h5:

[HoonBoy]

Put some more fuel in the tank (two litres doesn't last too long when it is a new tank with new lines and the carbs leak at first..) and fired it up again. Didn't get any time to check the timing or balance the carbs but it does move under it's own power again :D

It hasn't leaked any more oil since I put some sealant on it and compression is back to 150psi on all four cylinders. The oil pressure sender is not working properly as I did a quick remote mount with a t-piece for the warning light and pressure guage which appears to have earthing issues, it does show the pressure rise when the engine turns over so that is a good sign. Exhaust is shit, there is a major leak between the manifold and down pipes so it is noisy as all hell, I managed to get a few of the neighbours come out to have a look, some smiled, others didn't :D

Here are a few updated pics, ignore the messy engine bay, it needs a clean up when I finish the wiring changes:

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/IMG_3716.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/images/IMG_3720.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/images/IMG_3726.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/images/IMG_3729.jpg

Next step is to sort out the rest of the wiring, mount the guages, fix the stuffed gearbox mount and get it off to the tuner/extractor maker.

[ALLMTR]

What happened to the motor being fubar'd?

[HoonBoy]

http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67226859

[Jay_G]

very nice mate, looks tops.

oh and the obligatory skidpicsorban.

[HoonBoy]

Too many cars in the narrow street today :(

[msmola2002]

Looking good! looks tasteful with a lack of chrome.

and yes, needs more skidpics.

[HoonBoy]

The lack of chrome is an issue and was a discussion point earlier today, some trim parts need to go on but the chrome will probably look crap. The headlight sourounds are one example, I think they will look bad on the car. I'll put some thought in to it once the mechanical bits are sorted.

[TonyL]

just put the headlight surrounds on (re-done) and redo the rear light surrounds

[bigmuz]

What happened to the motor being fubar'd?

I fixed it for him.

Car looks good man. Well done.

[GAZ914]

Looking good Jamie :D

Not far now!

cheers
Gaz

[Guido]

That looks great, congratulations.

Can you please give me some info on that tank and how you have mounted it.

[HoonBoy]

The tank is a 38litre RCI foam filled with sender. The mounts were easy but fiddly to get it in the right location. It's basically a "H" under the tank made of 20mm square tubing. Locating tabs are bolted through the tubes and the aluminium strps wrap around and are bolted together underneath to squeeze it on to the tubing.

[peal]

loving the side profile. I say just put the headlight surrounds on.

[Guido]

Thanks for that. Do you have any pics of the mounts?

[itsnotagsr]

Looks great! You see a lot of other period marques running, but sadly not many of these.

[HoonBoy]

No pics of the mounts, but they are really really simple.

[HoonBoy]

The engine bay is almost complete, just need a couple of hoses for the catch can, modify the thermostat housing to point towards the radiator and finish off the radiator mounts (ran out of bolts :knock:)

http://www.hoonboy.com/images/IMG_3758.jpg

Also decided that rego is a hassle that I don't need and will barely use. Going to finish it off for race only and if I think I need rego, get it sorted out later on. It should bring the completion date forward by about six months.

Here are a couple of pics the fuel cell mounts for Guido:

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_3748.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_3751.jpg

[Ben Wilson]

Very nice..

[Guido]

Thanks for that, makes sense now.

Be a shame not to register it!

[HoonBoy]

I'm looking at rego this way, it is equivalent to two tyres and 5 event entry fees. I already own a trailer and car to tow it with, rego would be a couple of trips a year at most. Plus I get to make it lighter and safer without the rego boys looking at the mods :D

[msmola2002]

pfft, historic rego and friendly pink slipper ftw. Costs me 30 bucks a year. They are all period or safety mods, right? :D

[SLO78U]

how old does the car need to be for historic rego ???

[jzx83]

Also decided that rego is a hassle that I don't need and will barely use. Going to finish it off for race only and if I think I need rego, get it sorted out later on. It should bring the completion date forward by about six months.

You mean you are going to FINISH it? ;)

Take a good look at Historic or Club rego, might be just the ticket for you.

[msmola2002]

hysteric rego is > 30

[ALLMTR]

Yeah 30 aint so long ago. Commodores are now that :)

[SLO78U]

hurry up and get this finished Jamie !!!!

[HoonBoy]

I've got all my guages which will hopefullu be in by the end of the weekend. Then I will attack the fucked up exhaust and turn it in to a side exit. A couple of hoses in the engine bay and it's ready for tuning :D

[SLO78U]

i just discovered the rear plate on the diff is cracked. and has decided to leave it's entire contense on the garage floor.

know what i'll be doing all weekend !!!

[HoonBoy]

All weekend to change the rear plate on the diff? Going to do the seals and replace the broken wheel stud whilst you are at it?

Couldn't get the lights for the dash so it won't be finished this weekend :( On the plus side, I took out the back half of the exhaust so it now is just a hotdog and ends before the diff. The wife commented that it sounded much better without knowing what I had done so it must be more then just louder :D Going to put a side exit on it tomorrow after I sort out the last of the wiring.

[Grumpy Rooster]

You are so close now. A few more weekends and you'll be set.

Then its fun time. :yup:

[HoonBoy]

In typical fashion, only a part of the work got done. The gauges are temporarily mounted, final solid mounts still to be sorted. Half of them are wired and working, the other half need more bits before they will work. They will be mostly sorted when the warning lights go in.

I was doing some dodgy tuning when the engine was warming up to sort out the thermofan on/off points and thought I had some success and the enigne was running smoother then ever until it stalled and then wouldn't start again. I fiddled with the idle mixture and timing, which are what I was changing and no matter what I did it wouldn't start. I gave up (the fumes and loud exhasut were starting to get to me..) and went to work on the fuel guage which was stuck on way past full. After moving the sender up and down manually it suddenly dawned on me that the tank was completely empty and hence the reason why the engine wouldn't start :knock: Now I need to undo all the changes I made just before it stalled! :knock: :knock:

[Jim]

do you want any rear wheel bearings? I found some old stock that have been kicking around since the rally days, dont have the heart to chuck them out.

[SLO78U]

All weekend to change the rear plate on the diff? Going to do the seals and replace the broken wheel stud whilst you are at it?


i didn't get round to it. apparently uni assignments and mates weddings come before the pos.

i'll probably pull the diff out next week since i have it off uni. and do it all. wheel stud and axle seals and the rear plate.

you have till 6th of april for the next tarmac event or the 27th for the next khana cross.

[HoonBoy]

Secoh, if you are going to throw them out, I won't say no.

No chance of making the 6th, got to work :( Not going anywhere near dirt with this either, it's too pretty :)

[HoonBoy]

More shit going wrong... filed it up with fuel and couldn't get it to start. Tracked it down to no spark from the dead coil. The neighbour just happened to have a spare new coil that I have put in to get it running again. However, the plugs are fouled from running too rich and now it miss fires like a bastard. I also managed to kill the tachometric relay when I hooked up the fuel pump relay incorrectly and send the power straight to earth :knock:

[SLO78U]

sounds like it's turning into a disaster !!!!!!

just deep breath need to take and concentrait you must !!

diff is temporaly fixed. just broke the welds appart :( (so i put a bit more in there this time !! )

[GAZ914]

Give up Jamie :knock:

I'll come and take it off your hands for FREE and save you all the heart-ache... :D

Tommorrow would be OK.

cheers
Gaz

[HoonBoy]

I got the new spark plugs, had to go to three different shops to get BP6ES plugs! If they don't fix it then I will piss of the webers and Sigma ignition for quad throttles and quad coils. That should sort it out!

[Jim]

give me til next week some time i'll dig up all the leftover lancer bits I have. Even have some rubber carby sandwich plates off the twin cam inlet somewhere, though they never sealed properly anyway.

[HoonBoy]

That would be great, I may be up in Newy for work on the 31st, would be a good chance to pick them up depending on timing.

Spark plugs didn't change a thing, however, putting the old dissy cap on got rid of the missfire. Looks like the new one I fitted is crap! On worse news, the minor oil leak from the head gasket is now a major oil leak with about 200ml coming out in five mintues of running :( I'll sort out the thermo fan and then the head comes off for a check and new valve stem seals. There is a small amount of oil smoke after sitting idle for a while which may be tuning or valve stem seals, might as well go the hassle of replacing them whilst the head is being checked.

[MrBishi]

4G63 time

[HoonBoy]

Nah, sticking with the 4G32 unless someone comes up with some big dollars to buy it. However, I will need to upgrade the gearbox, don't think it will like the nitrous too much. Got any tips? :)

[bigmuz]

So what is this car meant to be? I'm not sure I get it.

It's not a drag car; yet it's not gonna be registered.
It's got nitrous so it's no good as a circuit car.

Maybe if you define what you want to do with it you could aim it in that direction? Not trying to be a prick but every time I see how much work you are putting into making it perfect I have to wonder what it is all in aid of.

[sv_i]

^ what Murray says. Trust me, you've got to have a build plan.

[MrBishi]

Nah, sticking with the 4G32 unless someone comes up with some big dollars to buy it. However, I will need to upgrade the gearbox, don't think it will like the nitrous too much. Got any tips? :)

The early 4 & 5 speeds will be fine. Drive like a rock-ape and it will break though.
4G63 N/A twin cam would be a blast & 11eleventy more reliables.

BTW - mine is in bits again:knock:

[HoonBoy]

I'm building what I like. If you don't like it or understand it, frankly, I don't care.

[bigmuz]

Jesus- defensive much?

[SLO78U]

he's just a little confused !!!

it's ok Jamie. we understand. just finish the fucking thing so we can go racing.

SR20 would be a good option !!!

[HoonBoy]

I was going to give a big long speel about why I am building the car and what I intend to do with it, but I couldn't be arsed. The people closer to the build know why everything is there and understand what I am doing. It's also very bloody close to be "finished" so a build plan is a past tense thing for me.

Anyway, on to today's work... thermo fan and oil/temp warning lights are all sorted and working. Had it idleing for ages with the occasional throttle blip sorting things out and there was't a hint of oil smoke (just fuel smoke and oil leaks...) so I'm not concerned with the valve stem seals. Given it is a shim and bucket setup and I have no idea where to get valve stem seals, it could be an expensive and time consuming exercise that I am glad I can do without now.

Head is now off and it is bloody obvious why it was leaking oil in the main area, it was never going to seal the way it was. There was also a minor leak around the timing cover area that I will need to sort out as it is not covered by the head gasket. Using silastic as suggested by an engine builder did not work so I will have to sort out something else. I'm thinking gasket paper around the same thickness as the headgasket so that it gets more of a squeeze. The head will go off this week for a check and skim if needed, hopefully to be returned this week so it can be on again and running next weekend. The bad part is I dropped a washer down the timing cover so the sump has to come off so I can retrieve it :knock:

[Grumpy Rooster]

I can assure you Muz there is a plan. And it has many different stages. Many of which are still to come. It will be used for whatever tar based motorsport he can get to, be that the drags, sprints, motorkhanas etc etc.

Its definitely not a bundle of bits thrown at the car and then think what am I going to do with it?

There you go Jamie, I summarised it for you.

And James, no SR is going in there. A much better package will get a look in at some point (I hope). :)

[ALLMTR]

4G63 time

:fuckinA:

[SLO78U]

oh well.

as for tarmac events there is a few on. i just can't afford the tyres to go fast on the track. and on dirt seams to be much cheaper everywhere !!

cheaper tyres, smaller brakes, cheaper suspension, cheaper $$$ to go racing. that's the only reason i'm so willing to get dirty !!!

that and dirt seams to be a big challenge cause i have only ever driven on the black top !!

[HoonBoy]

No SR20 for this car, no turbo's either. Just more power and the ability to use it in a fun way :)

[F|sh]

i know where a 4g33 is :)

[HoonBoy]

i know where a 4g33 is :)

Why would I want to go smaller :dunno:


The early 4 & 5 speeds will be fine. Drive like a rock-ape and it will break though.

Looks like it will die then! Clutch will probably not like it as well... diff definetly won't like a nitrous launch.


4G63 N/A twin cam would be a blast & 11eleventy more reliables.

With everything replaced on mine it should be reliable. Either that or it is cursed!


BTW - mine is in bits again:knock:

I thought you would of been finished way before me, hurry up and get it back together!


I'm starting to get concerned with the guy doing the headwork. I asked for it to be checked and shaved if needed. I got a message saying he has ordered a VRS kit as it was the same price as a head gasket and valve stem seals and I would get inlet and exhaust gaskets to use. He obviously didn't take notice that I use a 4G37 head gasket on a 4G32 block and that the inlet and exhasuts are different to any other mistu engine! If he stuffs the valve stem seals and I can't get replacments, I am not going to be a happy camper!

[Grumpy Rooster]

This obviously isn't who you said you were going to use the other day...??

[HoonBoy]

Nope, I went with the local option... starting to regret it to :(

[Grumpy Rooster]

This is all starting to get out of hand like my car did. :(

[HoonBoy]

It got out of hand years ago :D

Didn't manage to talk to the head guy, go too busy with work :( It's supposed to be finished tomorrow, will be an interesting conversation in the morning!

[Jim]

gearbox will be fine.. Ron Masing built a supercharged one that corkscrewed the tailshaft out the back of the box - but the box survived.

Have seen one with a 2.4L with webers and monster cam that exploded the gearbox (doing side-stepped clutch burnouts), but to this day I maintain it was because the 4G32 box top bellhousing bolt didn't line up with the Canter motor and 3 bell housing bolts on something with that much torque was never going to survive.

[HoonBoy]

I like how nobody says the diff is going to survive...

[Jim]

here's the funny thing. the diff is tiny, as are the axles....but I never saw a failure from straight power or non-burnout abuse. I think with the 4G32 you'll be ok, but with anything that's going to give a shitload of torque (turbo/nitrous) you'll lose an axle or two and will have to think about a cut down hilux one.

[HoonBoy]

I've got 3 spare diffs under the house, hopefully I won't run out of axles before I get a stronger one in there. I'll have to get good at backing off the loud pedal at the first sign of axle tramp.

[HoonBoy]

On another note, for those people (both of you...) that heard it with the full exhaust and complained it was loud, it is much louder with the open exhaust :D

[Grumpy Rooster]

Wonder why its so loud???

[HoonBoy]

No idea, I may think about it after the tune. Just got to remember to take some ear muffs to the workshop ;)

[HoonBoy]

People don't listen! The head guy thought he was telling me something new when he said 4G37 parts won't fit the head and a 4G32 headgasket is too small for the bores :knock: :knock: :knock:

Now he has sent back the 4G37 headgasket which I need to refit the head this weekend!

At least he didn't touch the valve stem seals... aparently they may be hard to get...

[Grumpy Rooster]

This really is sounding like the 205 more and more. The one thing I learned by sending all the machining to Orange to get done at Baker's was that sometimes you need to pay good money to get a job done right. I think the same applies with your engine. Its better to spend a few more bucks and get it done right the first time. Not that your trying to scimp on anything.

You do realise that the more money you spend on this engine the more it mounts up to the alternative. ;)

[TK]

Stem seals are easy - same as 4g54 magna & just about every other 8 valve mitsi 4 banger.

[HoonBoy]

Darren, I'm suprised you didn't pick up on the not needing a new gearbox could pay for some of your products ;)

TK, don't forget this is the twin cam, I'm not willing to place money on the stem seals being the same as the others. No other part of the head is the same as anything else I can find.

I'm about to go pickup the head and hopefully headgasket. Will be suprised if I come home with both...

[HoonBoy]

Well I actually came home with both! Head has been shaved (had a slight low spot on one corner which I could see from the oil on the headgasket before I gave it to him) cam tunnels line bored, cam given a quick linsih and the inlet/outlet surfaces machined up clean. It was alos vacum tested and everything is sealing fine.

The parts guy was so damn confused over the head gaskets, but I sorted it out and now have a new 4G37 gasket. From what I can tell, the head guy was talking about the inlet/exhaust gaskets being wrong and the parts guy thought the was talking about the head gasket being wrong. Either way, if they listened to me to start with (and the head guy really should of given it was in writing to him along with the head!) everything would of been fine.

Did a quick check of the combustion chamber volumes etc. and it looks like the compression ratio will be bang on 10:1. I would of liked it a little higher, but it should be fine. I can't see 0.5 making a huge difference with the rest of the setup the way it is.

[HoonBoy]

It runs.. again!

Spent a heap of time on the cam timing, when the head was removed, it looked wrong. However, after looking at the manual it turns out that why we thought it was wrong, was wrong! Unlike any other engine I have worked on, the timing marks on the cam pulleys do not go at the top the go 20degress towards the centre of the engine. There were a couple of marks on the cam bearings housings and timing chain that were used last time, this was the method used in the installation and removal part of the manual so I have always thought they were correct. After using the 20degrees method, it turns out those marks were out. The time paid of as the engine is running better then it was before replacing the head gasket.

A few things to tidy up and it is dyno time :D

[HoonBoy]

It's now booked in for a new exhaust (single muffler side exit), wheel alignment and dyno tune. Getting close to being driveable assuming nothing explodes.

[SLO78U]

got a date for us ??

which motorkhana are you going to debut it at ???

[HoonBoy]

No dates yet, first outing will probably be an open practice day at Wakefield so I can get used to the car.

[HoonBoy]

Thanks to CHE, it has a new side exit 2.5 inch exhaust (the quality difference from the old to new is HUGE!), intrusion bars are ready to fit and the nitrous bottle is full. Had it quickly checked by the tuner to ensure that there is nothing obviously wrong that would stop it going on the dyno, fortunately he didn't find anything that I didn't already know about. Goes in for a wheel alignment tomorrow. Got a list of things to sort out next on the weekend before it hits the dyno.

On the down side, I had an "incident" with the trailer ramps and new stronger ramps have been made up along with safety straps and holders on the trailer. I was never really happy with the old ramps, but didn't want to spend the time and money making replacements in such a hurry. Having a car on the trailer with no ramps puts a bit of urgency on things!

[Grumpy Rooster]

Hope the ramps incident didn't hurt the car? :(

[HoonBoy]

Bent the front beaver and put some scratches on it. Could of been a LOT worse if it wasn't for the suspension mounts. Will be fixed when I respray the interior which is a low priority at the moment.

[SLO78U]

needs more pics Jamie

[HoonBoy]

As long as the weather isn't too crap tomorrow, I will get some new pics.

Looks like I will be trying to get the car on the trailer for the first time in the wet. Might be an interesting exercise...

[HoonBoy]

Wheel alignment went OK today, couldn't get as much camber and castor as I would of liked, but it should be a good start to get a feel for the car.

Just to keep James happy, here are two crappy pics:

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_3846.jpg
http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_3848.jpg

[SLO78U]

More More More !!

[HoonBoy]

I'll see how I go on the weekend, got a few things to get done before the dyno and if there is any time left over I hope to get the interior sorted. Then there will be something worth pointing the camera at.

[Brent]

Good to see you making progress.
Have had my eyes on this for a while.
Best of luck with the dyno.
Very cool looking little car,
should go like shit from a sling shot.

I hate putting my baby on/off trailers.

[jzx83]

Update ???

[Grumpy Rooster]

http://forums.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67229724

[HoonBoy]

Just to keep it all in one thread, here are the cliff notes from the Dyno:

Dissy was stuffed, needed major work to get the rotor phasing correct
Cam timing was out for the inlet cam, factory timing marks are useless
New carb linkage had to be made from scratch to solve a balance issue
One carb wasn't closing fully, fixed with some carb work and different throttle return spring arrangement
Ignition module was stuffed - replaced with a different style
Coil was dodgy - replaced with a different one to match the ignition module
Alternator bolt snapped twice on the dyno, bracket modifed to be stronger and take a thicker bolt.
Need a heater for the nitrous bottle, initial tuning was done with 700psi in the bottle.

Some vids:
Through the gears
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c8It-Gtis6M
Power run on carbs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=phDxYrK4vWQ
Power run on nitrous
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XCpLI0951_Q

Dyno chart with NA and nitrous run:
http://www.hoonboy.com//images/finaldyno.jpg

[F|sh]

THE GENX-2 kit would be the way to go if you don't already have a purge kit, a blow down tube and the bottle blanket.

or keep it all holley

[HoonBoy]

I'll get a holley to match the rest of the stuff, everything else is in and working, just need to get some pressure in the bottle.

[Grumpy Rooster]

Where is the post "pick up car and take for test drive on private road with hit of gas" report? ;)

[HoonBoy]

Damn his private road is bumpy! Nitrous decided to not activate :( It hasn't been touched since it was on the dyno so I don't know what is wrong but will look at it sometime during the week. I'm guessing it's an issue with the odd feeling full throttle switch.

Going from the feeling last night, I am going to have a LOT of fun on the track :D

[Grumpy Rooster]

Feels good huh? That's what I like to hear. Now imagine that with half as much power again!!! :w:

[F|sh]

you need to get a purge kit dude! dale sell him a purge kit!!!

[Grumpy Rooster]

He already has a purge kit. He is talking about the full throttle switch. Its really stiff and bending rather than activating.

[hamish]

Purge kit - I think he needs one of these ..

http://www.dailymotion.com/video/x195qb_zex82370brapidfire_auto

:)

[Jim]

excellent stuff :D I had forgotten how good these sound

[SLO78U]

well Jamie. i hope putting up a wall was worth it !!!

with the prefect weather today blatting around today was so much fun.

i forgot my camera so no photo's.

i'll posttimes up in a sec.

[HoonBoy]

Purge kit is on and works fine, but it does need a bottle warmer. It's either the full throttle switch, the fuel pressure switch or not getting enough fuel pressure for the full throttle switch to activate it. Haven't had a chance to look at it yet :(

[F|sh]

maybe a good old beer warmer might do the trick?

[HoonBoy]

I will get a proper one, got a lot of other things to do first so it will probably be a month or so before I look at the NOS setup again.

[HoonBoy]

Got a bit of time over the weekend and got some stuff done. Seats have been lowered 4cm's, harness bar and harnesses are in, new more baffled muffler is in along with finally fixing (I hope!) a leak that I couldn't find and a tow hook has been fitted to the front.

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4146.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4153.jpg

[RICE_MOBILE]

With the fuel tank in the boot, does't the passenger compartment have to be sealed off from the fuel tank incase of a leak/fire??

[HoonBoy]

Nah, I want to make sure I burn quickly

The sheets are half done, hope to get it in next weekend.

[Grumpy Rooster]

Finally got some more time hey. Getting closer. :)

[HoonBoy]

Some more updates, back seat area is blanked off with aluminium panels, interior has been painted to cover up the different colours, roll cage is also painted. Battery has been moved to the cabin and replaced after it died... Power isolation switch has been mounted properly along with the nitrous switches and then the isolation switch was replaced after it died... Nitrous warmer has been fitted and tested, now some changes need to be made to the fuel system to remove the lean spike when it is first activated. The hydraulic handbrake and proportioning valve have been fitted and the residual pressure valve removed from the rear brake lines. Fire extinguishers have been fitted, external rear view mirrors are on and the external cable for power isolation switch is half mounted.

I still have a long list of stuff to do but most of it is small jobs that shouldn't take too long assuming nothing else goes wrong.

[F|sh]

sweet

havent touched mine yet.....

[TonyL]

sweet
I sold my sedan today :h5:

[GAZ914]

Where's the pics!!!

[HoonBoy]

I'm trying to get them, just a tad busy at the moment..

[HoonBoy]

A few pics including the door modifications I did this afternoon :(

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4240.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4242.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4243.jpg

http://www.hoonboy.com/tmp/pics/IMG_4245.jpg

[F|sh]

what the fuck happened to the door!!!!

[HoonBoy]

reversed out of the garage with it open :( I've got spares but need to get the paint matched which could be a problem.

[Sketchy]

Side pipe FTW :D

bingled door not so much :(

[Guido]

Looks good (other than the door). How did you paint the cage?

[GAZ914]

reversed out of the garage with it open :(

Faaaaaarrrrkkkkkk :oh: :oh:

Bad luck with the door mate.

Rest is looking sensational :worship:

Sorry, I can't paint!

cheers
Gaz

[bigmuz]

Please loop those harness straps back through the fitting before you drive it.

Bad luck with the door.

[SLO78U]

that's the 3 isn't it ??

hopefully nothing else goes ........... well you know.

[jzx83]

NNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOO!!!!

What was that about 'provided nothing goes wrong' :(

[Grumpy Rooster]

FARK NO !!!!!!!!!!!!!! :oh::oh::oh::oh::oh::oh:

[Babalouie]

Awww man...that must have been an awful feeling.

[HoonBoy]

Looks good (other than the door). How did you paint the cage?

POR15 hammercote brushed on. Sets smooth with no brush marks.


Please loop those harness straps back through the fitting before you drive it.

Thought I had gotten them right.. which way do I strap them back through?


that's the 3 isn't it ??

I'm the second person I know who has stuffed the rear passenger door in the last week. And if you count general stuff, it is WAY more then 3!

Going to have to skip the fun stuff this weekend to get the door sorted along with other stuff to try and make the Oran Park supersprint on the 16th.

[hotgemini]

Please loop those harness straps back through the fitting before you drive it.

Bad luck with the door.

Muz. The harnesses are correctly threaded in all the photos he posted.

[Jim]

damn :(
at least it's the passenger side, the Lancer tradition continues :p

[Guido]

Thanks mate. I am looking to go POR15 gloss black for the cage and grey for the floor/boot. Most clear pic of the finish I have seen yet.

[HoonBoy]

The floor is also POR15 that was brushed on, the colour was crap so it was mixed with black to make it a bit darker.

[HoonBoy]

It now has a blue with white bits door... Thinking of giving it a dodgy non-matched green pressure pack job for the first outing to save time. All of the doors I have need a bit of rust and dent repairs and I don't know if I will be done in time.

[Bermo]

Pressure pack FTW

You have to make it out to OP on the 16th, I just got my entry confirmed so it would be good to run a couple of pf'ers.

(And I got number 351 woot!)

[bigmuz]

Muz. The harnesses are correctly threaded in all the photos he posted.

Yeah; should have looked a bit closer before passing judgement :D

[HoonBoy]

Replacement door has been stripped, panel beaten, rust repaired and primed ready for painting this weekend if the paint matching is done during the week properly.

Tracking down the dodgy ignition issue found a dud alternator, which I need to get replaced. The tachymetric relay decided to crap itself and go permanently on whilst I was tracking down the power issue so it will have to be replaced as well.

Going to miss the supersprint on the 16th, no chance of getting everything done this weekend, I'll lose a full day getting parts, tyres and painting the door. Getting the rest done as well as trying to get a log book will give me a lot of grief with minimal chance of racing. New planned debut event is a concrete motorkhana on the 31st.

[Potsy]

Question, is it actually acceptable to attach the harness straps to a bar that has been bolted to the parcel tray/wheels arches?
I have asked this question re my Corolla and no-one knows.
Basically i dont want to mount the straps to the rear floor if you know what i mean.
PS. Sorry about the door, that paint looked soooo deep and smooth too.

[HoonBoy]

Yep, as long as it is mounted properly there are no issues. Technically I could of done it a lot weaker but still been inside the regs. Straps to the floor is a big no, they should be horizontal from the shoulders to the mounting points or pointing 10 degrees downwards towards the back of the car.

[Potsy]

Yeah i knew about the floor and angle of inclination bit.
Its just damn hard to find the correct information.
Guy i spoke to at the club said "No Cage, No Harness"
Bit farking harsh i thought, as i had visions of doing something very similar to your setup, but actually bolt a 40mm square box section with plates either end to the strut tops.
This would then serve 2 purposes, being rear strut brace and harness mounting device. Win-Win!

[HoonBoy]

Sounds like the setup GAZ914 has in the Sigma of Death. The regs will allow you to have a harness without a cage but it is not recomended because it holds you still in a rollover whilst the body of the car deforms, in this case it is better to move with the car then be squashed by it!

[MrBishi]

Bad news about the door. I thought I felt bad when I slipped and put a small knee mark in one of my doors. I'd chuck a wobbly at that much damage.

PS needs more 4G63.

[HoonBoy]

There is an extra dent in the door from my reaction... Got the paint yesterday, according to the paint guy it took 2.5hours to match properly, we will see if it was time well spent on the weekend! Also got a new alternator and tachymetric relay on the way to replace the duds in the car.

[HoonBoy]

New alternator is in and I finally have 14.4volts, as long as I am above idle which only gives it 14.2... I don't intend on sitting at idle with all the headlights, wipers and heater on so it shouldn't be an issue.

Door is half painted, should be finished today and back on next weekend.

[Jim]

yay!

[SLO78U]

about time !!!

[HoonBoy]

Ummm, you do realise it is just the door that will be finished???

[HoonBoy]

Door is painted and roughly hung back on the car so I don't knock it over and scratch the hell out of it.