Building MX5 Time Attack Cars

[lightyear]

Hi guys, i am starting the build of two lightwieght turbo mx5's with a friend.
I will keep you posted, feel free to comment on the build. I know there are a couple of mx5 racers on here that will no doubt have a lot more knowledge than myself on these cars. They are not being built to suit a racing class other than superlap. We really wanted to see how fast we can make the little cars go around a curcuit, without going to tube frame. We are removing a lot of weight by removing unwanted metal, and making all panels from carbon fibre. The panels will be redesigned with downforce/aero in mind. We will have full ground effects too. At first we will be reusing the nb 1.8 motors with turbo aprox 180rwkw's. And would like the weight down to around 750kg's.

41697
We cut about 15 kg's out of it last night.

Our goal is a 1:40 around the island.

[tinkerbell]

subscribed :)

[evil_weevil]

I like your current car, so this will be a good thread to watch!!

have you sold the NA6 yet?

[Cal]

Why are you retaining the BP motor?

[Andy_W]

NA8 (Open) or NB8B SE (in Clubsprint)?

Cheers & good luck!

[CT]

If you are making carbon panels and it's an NB, I am interested to see what you do.

[TCR]

Looking forward to seeing how these progress.

[lightyear]

I didn't sell the NA, and i am not going to. If i sold it i would have nothing to drive till the NB is done.
We are keeping the standard motor for now, we can always upgrade later. A few people have said 13b turbo. We want to keep the ppf too. If we decide to change the engine later we will make tube subframes to save weight and to suit the new engine.
I would say we will be in open class.
I just want to get them built and them develop them as we get to know what they need.

[trent from punchy]

:)

[BoganDAVE]

why go to all this effort then keep the pissy little 1.6?

[lightyear]

It's actually a 1.8. They will be fast enough with the stock motors. My current NA has more weight, less power and less aero.... and beats a shitload of cars. I will be going down to phillip island in the beginning of july with the old NA and i bet it will do a 1:47. Not too many cars going that fast. Once we have saved enough money we will put some decent power in the cars.
If we get any help/sponsors along the way, we will have them more developed earlier.

[The Pupat]

You can make the grunt from a BP. Putting it to the ground is normally the drawback.
Sounds like a good project I shall be watching in anticipation.

[lightyear]

That's why we are doing full aero. And running decent tyres.

[The Pupat]

I meant keeping a diff and gearbox in it. :)

[Sport4]

Awesome work. Though ED MA61s 2UZ would rip in this.

[lightyear]

With less weight there should be less stress on the driveline.

[carcrazy]

Interesting projects cant wait to see how it goes ;)

[buzz]

Inon Juan.

Very cool. Do you have any requirement for pansy 'street' stuff like operating headlights, indicators, horns, etc? Or is it an outright exercise in minimalism?

[flopper]

I didn't sell the NA, and i am not going to. If i sold it i would have nothing to drive till the NB is done.
We are keeping the standard motor for now, we can always upgrade later. A few people have said 13b turbo. We want to keep the ppf too. If we decide to change the engine later we will make tube subframes to save weight and to suit the new engine.
I would say we will be in open class.
I just want to get them built and them develop them as we get to know what they need.

I've always thought an IPRA style 13B and dog box would be great in an MX5. Good power, not too heavy and pretty well proven in a race car.

I'm surprised there aren't a few more over the top MX5s around seeing as they do so well even with only mild mods. I guess not having somewhere to race them becomes an issue?

What made you choose NB over NA?

Who's car is that in your avatar?

[lightyear]

Inon Juan.

Very cool. Do you have any requirement for pansy 'street' stuff like operating headlights, indicators, horns, etc? Or is it an outright exercise in minimalism?

No pansy street stuff here.

[lightyear]

The car in the avatar is my cuurent track car. The NB is a lighter car and makes a better racecar.

[flopper]

You should start a thread on that too, or throw some pics up in this thread?

[FatBoy]

I've always thought an IPRA style 13B and dog box would be great in an MX5. Good power, not too heavy and pretty well proven in a race car.

I'd just build a decent IPRA RX-7 (950kgs) then throw a turbo 13b at it. Run better rubber (wouldn't be hard, they are limited to 225/50/15 Yoko's), and it'd be a weapon...

A genuine 250rwhp IPRA RX-7 that has a decent steerer will do 1.43's at Eastern Creek - imagine the same car a little bit lighter, with better rubber and 450rwhp...

The shorter wheelbase of the MX-5 would scare me with mega hp.... :oh:

[lightyear]

Here are some pics for ya........

A pic from sandown, last corner at the end of the back straight.


http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5040/sandown30may2009.th.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/sandown30may2009.jpg/)

I made some carbon fibre doors, they weigh a bit over 2kg's for the complete shell inner and outer.

http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/8329/2inadr.th.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/2inadr.jpg/)

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9909/cfdooropen.th.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/cfdooropen.jpg/)

http://img541.imageshack.us/img541/3879/cfdooroncardrivers.th.jpg (http://img541.imageshack.us/i/cfdooroncardrivers.jpg/)

And a c.f hardtop

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6161/ht3clearcoat.th.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/ht3clearcoat.jpg/)


1.6 motor with headwork, hks cam and tdo4h turbo running microtech. And V-mount.

http://img443.imageshack.us/img443/8157/threeg.th.jpg (http://img443.imageshack.us/i/threeg.jpg/)

Interior pic, not much in here.

http://img139.imageshack.us/img139/4567/intrior.th.jpg (http://img139.imageshack.us/i/intrior.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

[lightyear]

A genuine 250rwhp IPRA RX-7 that has a decent steerer will do 1.43's at Eastern Creek - imagine the same car a little bit lighter, with better rubber and 450rwhp...

The shorter wheelbase of the MX-5 would scare me with mega hp.... :oh:[/QUOTE]

We want to use mx5's, i think everyone has done rx7's to death. I like them, but we don't want to go that way.

[FatBoy]

Fair enough - i just figured for Superlap type events they'd be a good option...

Enjoy, look forward to seeing how you go ! :)

[lightyear]

I think they should be competitive. It's all about weight.

[RotaUte]

subscribed :)

Ditto

[adamRSLC]

[QUOTE=lightyear;840759832]Here are some pics for ya........

A pic from sandown, last corner at the end of the back straight.


http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5040/sandown30may2009.th.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/sandown30may2009.jpg/)

Im not sure on the car but didnt you put this into the wall ( lightly ) at a wrx club event at sandown last year ? , sorry if its the wrong car / driver .

adam

[SPEEDCORE]

Nice work on the doors!

[buzz]

Nice work on the doors!

And the carbon roof. :yup:

[lightyear]

Yes i did put it in the wall on the slowest corner. Trying to get the power on early for a quick run down the straight. But it went sideways when i had 2 wheels on the extreme edge of the track. So then i was on the grass and it wouldn't stop. It was only a light hit, but it bent the lower a arm.


The doors come up good. I am happy with them, they are really light, fit well. and open and close as per original.

[lightyear]

I actually make the roofs and sell them. The new cars will have more carbon fibre than you can poke a left foot at.

The fun part will be making the wide body moulds.

[buzz]

The fun part will be making the wide body moulds.

Cool. I presume something more upmarket than just a bolt on group c / a9x torana type flare job? Fully integrated into/replacing the front guards?

How wide rubber are you planning to run, or is it mainly to increase track?

[lightyear]

I am making these guards
http://img171.imageshack.us/img171/5461/aerohondas.th.jpg (http://img171.imageshack.us/i/aerohondas.jpg/)

We wil be running lightweight 15x9's with 225's to start with. But we may be able to get 275's later. With possibly a 30mm spacer.

[Kaiser]

[QUOTE=lightyear;840759832]Here are some pics for ya........

A pic from sandown, last corner at the end of the back straight.


http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/5040/sandown30may2009.th.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/sandown30may2009.jpg/)

Im not sure on the car but didnt you put this into the wall ( lightly ) at a wrx club event at sandown last year ? , sorry if its the wrong car / driver .

adam

I was just thinking that Adam. :)

[lightyear]

Back then the car was very unpredictable making it hard to drive consistantly. It had coilovers in the front with about 1" droop and lowered springs on standard shocks on the rear with about 8"'s of droop. And a viscous diff which would sometimes work, and other times would just spin one wheel. Since changing the coiolovers to a set of new matching ones and installing the torsen i haven't come of yet. Touch wood. Now when it feels like you have pushed it too far, you can get it back. No way you could do that before.

[rorge]

Looking good! Glad you found the forum, not sure if it was from my sig on the mxfag forum!??

I'm on the waiting list for a hardtop.. by waiting list i mean i'm waiting until i can afford it.. :)

[Kaiser]

Back then the car was very unpredictable making it hard to drive consistantly. It had coilovers in the front with about 1" droop and lowered springs on standard shocks on the rear with about 8"'s of droop. And a viscous diff which would sometimes work, and other times would just spin one wheel. Since changing the coiolovers to a set of new matching ones and installing the torsen i haven't come of yet. Touch wood. Now when it feels like you have pushed it too far, you can get it back. No way you could do that before.

Are you going to be doing the VicWRX track day on the 27th?

[lightyear]

No, i will be going to the aroca day on the 3rd of july at phillip island. Need to give the old motor a quick freshen up and pull out the stock motor that is in it. Hopefully i will have it done by then. Should be good for 1:47's.

[lightyear]

Looking good! Glad you found the forum, not sure if it was from my sig on the mxfag forum!??

I'm on the waiting list for a hardtop.. by waiting list i mean i'm waiting until i can afford it.. :)

I am making 6 new ones in my spare time in the next couple of weeks. 2 for the new cars, 2 for james @ mx5centre, and 2 to sell. Still have to mould the spoilers and flares i have, and strip the red nb. Always plenty to do around here.

[ALLMTR]

Still have mould for carbon doors?

[lightyear]

Yep.

[RotaUte]

What kinda $$ are the lid and swinging panels?

[lightyear]

Hardtop is $900 bare and $1450 fully assembled with lexan window, lower rubber, side window rubbers, lazer cut brackets and fastners.

Doors are $1250 each - assembled with holes drilled/cut. Extra $100 each for window frames and lexan window.

Clear coat is $200 for the hardtop and $200 for a pair of doors.

I can also do carbon/kevlar combination too.

[Monk]

Still have mould for carbon doors?

Didn't you sell your mx5? :D

[ALLMTR]

Yes I did sell an Mx5

[lightyear]

I started getting the NB ready for the cage last night. Started at 8.00pm and finished ripping out the softtop, interior and boot by 11.00pm.

[RotaUte]

Hardtop is $900 bare and $1450 fully assembled with lexan window, lower rubber, side window rubbers, lazer cut brackets and fastners.

Doors are $1250 each - assembled with holes drilled/cut. Extra $100 each for window frames and lexan window.

Clear coat is $200 for the hardtop and $200 for a pair of doors.

I can also do carbon/kevlar combination too.

That's pretty good. I suggested a mate shoot you a line, we're starting on a time attack MX5 later this year once he sells his other cars and getting you to take care of the panels/aero would save a huge amount of hassle.

[lightyear]

Buy an NB, i will have all panels for it. I only have the doors for the NA model. You could use all the front NB panels on an NA though.

[Ned-Racing]

At 450hp you will need to spend big $$ on the drive train.

I have gone through 3 gearboxes and a diff and my turbo mx5 race car only has about 250hp at the rears. Also will need to look at drive shafts.

Interested to see how it all pans out.

Neil

[lightyear]

I have never broken anything except synchros, and that was my fault. I have 200rwhp and everything on my car was 20yrs old except the motor until recently. Maybe because it breaks traction instead of breaking parts.

[Cal]

No question. Slicks put a lot of strain on the drive train that isn't there with semi slicks.

[lightyear]

In time attack you can only run semi's. Pretty much the only rule except the car has to be a production car.

[takai]

And it has to have a roughly standard floorpan. I.e. profi's excel is out.

[profi]

And it has to have a roughly standard floorpan. I.e. profi's excel is out.

:( so no time attacks for me.

[lightyear]

What the... is a profi's excel????????????

[lightyear]

i worked it out, so what have you done to the excel?

[profi]

No floor pan what so ever.... any chance to run a time attack?

http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ak-snc3/hs515.snc3/27032_108711452475176_100000089663831_212575_71690 39_n.jpg

[HoonBoy]

And it has to have a roughly standard floorpan. I.e. profi's excel is out.

I wonder what they would think of my floor pan mods? It is stock chassis from the front to the old rear seat line.

[lightyear]

I just had a look at your excell page. Very impressive. I would love to do something like that when i have more spare time. Should be exciting to drive. What would the total weight be??

[RotaUte]

Buy an NB, i will have all panels for it. I only have the doors for the NA model. You could use all the front NB panels on an NA though.

Yeah that was suggested, but I agree with him in the fact that the NA is the real MX5.

Kinda like if you want a GTR, sure R34s are newer (nobody wants an R33), but R32s will always be the real GTR

IMO

[lightyear]

I always thought that, but i think that's because i owned an NA. When they are on the track only a real mx5 enthusiast can tell them apart (NA to NB).

[profi]

I just had a look at your excell page. Very impressive. I would love to do something like that when i have more spare time. Should be exciting to drive. What would the total weight be??

Car by its self should be somewhere around the 700kg mark. Is there any time attack classes it may be allowed to run in?

[lightyear]

Nah, but just rock up and say you thought they come out like that. Look forward to seeing it on a track day soon.

[hsvgts196]

That's pretty good. I suggested a mate shoot you a line, we're starting on a time attack MX5 later this year once he sells his other cars and getting you to take care of the panels/aero would save a huge amount of hassle.

Yes you did ! Subscribed and looking forward to seeing the progress. Just need to sell the other 2 and I'll pick up the phone.

[lightyear]

Fark it's so much easier to push the cars after they are ripped apart. Pushed the car onto the hoist late this arvo, and took everything off it except the subfames/suspension, and pushed it back off.You can feel the difference. Pity we have to put a motor in it.

I was thinking of taking the scales down and weighing all the crap. Then we can weigh what goes back on and get a fair idea of what it weighs when it's finished

[lightyear]

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/6848/mycarstripped.th.jpg (http://img812.imageshack.us/i/mycarstripped.jpg/)

I am getting there with my car the other one was dropped of yesterday at meridian to get the cage done. This one will go down on wednesday.
I weighed everything i took off too.

[lightyear]

I just worked it out, we took off 253 kg's not including motor/box and all accesories on motor, like a/c p/s brackets etc. I figured that the turbo gear would weigh similiar.

Seats weigh 28.5 kg's for the pair - new seat 6kg's. The softtop with all accesories weighs 22.3kg's - carbon fibre roof 6kg's. The doors weigh 23.2 kg's each without the doortrim and handle - c.f doors about 3.5 kg's with window. Dash assembly with support is 16.5kg's not inc heater, a/c and blower. The complete carpet and soundproofing is 11kg's, loom 12.5kg's, alloy bonnet 8.1kg's, exhaust cat back 18.2kg's, and we have a bucket of bolts that weighs 8.2kg's.

We will be putting roughly 70 kg's back into it by my calculations. Also cutting out about 20-30kg's of metal. Plus the cage about 50kg's. That means the cars will weigh under 900 kg's finished if the weight is 1060kg's for a factory car. Not sure but i think that's what they weigh. I am sure we will find more weight to take out before they are finished. I think the most we are going to save is about 300kg's over a standard car. I am hoping for around 800kg's or less.

[lightyear]

The car weighs 1026 from factory. I reworked out the numbers. It would be minimum 260kg's of stuff that has come off that won't be needed. Replacing that with about 60-65kg's of new stuff. Plus cage 40-50kg's Minus metal removed 20-30kg's. should weigh between 836kg's and 861kg's finished. We will see at the end how close i get. It is not so easy getting them under 800kg's. I will be looking into making a jig to replicate the subframes in tubular steel as well as all the suspension arms. That should save another 20+kg's.

[stb]

That's nice and light. Should go alright...

[lightyear]

Does anyone know of a place to acid dip the cars in melbourne?

[HoonBoy]

I will be looking into making a jig to replicate the subframes in tubular steel as well as all the suspension arms. That should save another 20+kg's.

I think that's a bit optomistic, I've got an MX5 subframe with arms and hubs (no diff, driveshafts, brakes) sitting in the garage and I can't see where you would save 20kg on it. I haven't got anything I can use to weigh it, but I guess it weighs about 40kg or less.

[lightyear]

I was thinking 10kg for the front and 10kg for the rear. Look up the v8 miata subframes, i am sure they save a bunch of weight.There is about a 7kg saving with after market brakes. Got me new wheels today from the mx5centre.

http://img812.imageshack.us/img812/9702/gree.th.jpg (http://img812.imageshack.us/i/gree.jpg/)

They are 15x9's with 225's. And weigh less than half a kilo more than the stock wheels and tyres.

Edit: just looked it up the tube subframes are 10lb lighter than stock, and there would be a few kilo's in each suspension arm, especially if you do away with the big bushes and use rose joints.

[ALLMTR]

The V8 subframes (that I have seen) look piss weak compared to the standard fare

[HoonBoy]

10kg would be a bit more realistic (although maybe hard to get all the way there). I'm deciding if I should chuck the subframe and just build the chassis with the suspension arm pickup points. It should be lighter, potentially stiffer and easier to do in my case.

[lightyear]

We won't be doing it straight away. After the cars are going we will be doing more things like this. Let me know how you go with it, sounds interesting.

[CXTdreamer]

I guess you're not going to be doing NA front guards now that you've moved on to the NBs?

Looks like these two will be balltearers

[lightyear]

I had started moulding 1 NA guard, but didn't finish it due to being too busy. So i won't be doing them yet. The standard guards are not that heavy anyway. If you didn't eat mcdonalds for a couple of weeks it would work out to be the same weight saving. :)

[Cal]

Are they the nickel version of the 949 wheels?

[Uncle Arthur]

10kg would be a bit more realistic (although maybe hard to get all the way there). I'm deciding if I should chuck the subframe and just build the chassis with the suspension arm pickup points. It should be lighter, potentially stiffer and easier to do in my case.

Thats an idea, going to build in some adjustability eg anti/pro squat?

[HoonBoy]

Yeah, was thinking about that last night. Make the pickup points bolt on so they can be adjusted as needed.

[lightyear]

Are they the nickel version of the 949 wheels?

Yep, that's all he had left. They look a lot fatter than the 8's with 205's.

[profi]

Nah, but just rock up and say you thought they come out like that.

Seriously?

[lightyear]

Yeah, was thinking about that last night. Make the pickup points bolt on so they can be adjusted as needed.

Make sure you take pics. I don't know a lot about suspension, so i was going to replicate the same pick up points - as i know they work.



Profi - No i am not serious, but it would be a laugh to see the scrutineers face when you tell them that it is a standard limited edition rear drive "sprint".

[profi]

On a serious note, would i be able to run for no points in the superlap thing?

[CussCuss]

why bother, its just a timed run.

Turn up at a normal track day, get a time, spend extra $600-$2000 on coke and hookers.

[lightyear]

It is really a glorified timed run, but is usually better promoted, and you can win a dodgy trophy. The cost is similiar to a normal track day, so no coke and hookers. Maybe you should shoot an email to the organisers that run the superlap and see what they say.

[lightyear]

I took the head off the the motor from my old car and the pistons don't look too good.
http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/1241/no1pistn.th.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/no1pistn.jpg/)

That's no1 piston. The others don't have a hole, but have heavy pitting on the intake side of the piston like you can see on this one.

Can anyone tell me if the head is fixable? It has the same pitting around 2 of the outer cylinder edges. Hopefully it can be welded and machined.

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/8130/headpg.th.jpg (http://img695.imageshack.us/i/headpg.jpg/)

[9triton]

Can anyone tell me if the head is fixable? It has the same pitting around 2 of the outer cylinder edges. Hopefully it can be welded and machined.

]

is it an alloy head ?

yes ?

then your answer is here:



http://www.performanceforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=67248952&highlight=isuzu

[lightyear]

O.K, so it's not as bad as that guys.

[9triton]

O.K, so it's not as bad as that guys.

just need to find the right craftsman to weld it up correctly

[lightyear]

I had an engine builder look at it, he said it can be fixed, but it will be cheaper to port a good second hand head rather than to rebuild this one.

[lightyear]

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/8132/cage1l.th.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/cage1l.jpg/)

http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/1452/cage2p.th.jpg (http://img35.imageshack.us/i/cage2p.jpg/)

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/3011/cage3.th.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/cage3.jpg/)

The guys at meridian did a great job on the cage. Now it is time to clean up the shell and get it ready for all the c.f panels.

[lightyear]

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/5310/rcr.th.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/rcr.jpg/)

Took a pic of the other car. We haven't started on them yet as we where working flat out on the old mx5 rebuilding a new motor and getting it ready to race. It is done now so we can start on the new ones. I will do the widebody moulds first.

[matt b]

Subscribes

[lightyear]

I got a start on the widebody tonight, it's about 45mm wider each side.

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/8743/1stwb.th.jpg (http://img832.imageshack.us/i/1stwb.jpg/)

[LINCOLN]

A mate of is thinking about one of these. I'll send him this way. Love the carbon!

[lightyear]

I think they can be a pretty quick car.

Here is a pic i found with the fuel tank hump, parcel shelf and seatbelt towers surgically removed.
http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4930/nbcut.th.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/nbcut.jpg/)

[Euroboost]

The car weighs 1026 from factory. I reworked out the numbers. It would be minimum 260kg's of stuff that has come off that won't be needed. Replacing that with about 60-65kg's of new stuff. Plus cage 40-50kg's Minus metal removed 20-30kg's. should weigh between 836kg's and 861kg's finished. We will see at the end how close i get. It is not so easy getting them under 800kg's. I will be looking into making a jig to replicate the subframes in tubular steel as well as all the suspension arms. That should save another 20+kg's.
1026kg for an MX5? Jesus, my 121 was just over that with a full tank of fuel and me in it. And mine was a lardarse, towbar, A/C, driving lights etc.

[lightyear]

I had a mighty boy ute years ago that weighed just a bit more than the steak i had for dinner. Doesn't mean it makes a good track car. Not with the 3 cylinder motor and 2 speed semi auto box anyway.

[Euroboost]

Don't get me wrong, I know the MX5 is a better track car. I was just suprised how heavy they are compared to the similar sized, and porky, 121. I guess Mazda made the MX5 stronger then I thought, never really thought about how strong they were before.

[lightyear]

Being a ragtop they need to put in a lot of extra reinforcing. But they did try to keep the weight down all the same. I don't think they are too heavy, but they still need to go on a diet to be quick, seeing as we don't have 500hp to throw at them.

[lightyear]

I went up to winton and set a new p.b of 1:36 with my new kumhos, and then i decided to put the old toyo's on and just do a few laps as i didn't want to wear out the kumhos. The toyos felt really good even tho they were cold, and i was showing off a bit doing power slides in front of the crowd. It just went out too far. Hopefully i will fix it quickly.

http://img256.imageshack.us/img256/3637/reartap.jpg (http://img256.imageshack.us/i/reartap.jpg/)

If you can't see tread on that rear tyre, that's because there isn't any.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2985/lovetap.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/lovetap.jpg/)

[Cal]

Opps is that a wrecked 6UL or 2?

[tinkerbell]

good to see that such light rims can take a bit of a hit?

[lightyear]

The rims appear to be fine as they hit flat on. I just gotta scrape off all the paint (from the wall) and get them spun up on a balancer to check.

[lightyear]

I am now getting the NB ready for track work with all the gear from my NA. First thing i did is cut out some more metal and remove the sound deadening and seam sealer, as well as any brackets and bolts that looked a bit shifty.

There is a hole in the boot floor.
http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/6387/noboot.jpg (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/noboot.jpg/)

Engine bay ready for paint.
http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/1746/fron.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/fron.jpg/)

Painted the cage, didn't like the colour, so doing it again in the gt3 rs highlight colour as well as the engine bay and other bits.... like the gt3 rs.
http://img694.imageshack.us/img694/5315/41834729.jpg (http://img694.imageshack.us/i/41834729.jpg/)

[lightyear]

I have upoaded a few videos to youtube. Here is a link, click on more videos from me once in there to see the others.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ouLgTmocZ_s

[lightyear]

Painted the engine bay, but for some reason the pics come out looking pink. The colour is actually bright orange.




http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/6629/engbb.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/engbb.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Painted the cage. Just have to paint the floor now then i can get a start on assembly.

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/5562/ltst1.jpg (http://img831.imageshack.us/i/ltst1.jpg/)

[fattima]

Looking good mate.
What paint did you use?

[lightyear]

2k clear over base. Which means you have to paint it 3 times. I painted it the first time with cans, (primer then orange) but it was shyt. So i got some rags and thinners and washed it all off. Wasn't too hard, but still took about 3 hours. Then i prepped it again, used 2k primer, put the patio heater on it for a couple of hours, then put the colour on, patio heater again, then cleared it. And you guessed it patio heater again......
Took most part of the day to do.

[lightyear]

Inside is painted now. It took me hours to mask.
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6416/flork.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/i/flork.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Finished the painting.
http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/5553/intdet.jpg (http://img833.imageshack.us/i/intdet.jpg/)

[HoonBoy]

Cool, time to get busy with the mechanical bits :)

[lightyear]

I am going to get a start on it, but unfortunately i have to go up to brisbane for 3 days to tile a good friends pool area. About 100m of 600x600 granite. I hope the slab is good.

[Cal]

Wow nice cage.

[RotaUte]

Painted the engine bay, but for some reason the pics come out looking pink. The colour is actually bright orange.



Either way, looks good. Doors etc staying raw carbon?

[lightyear]

Yer, it looks pretty good. All c.f panels will be finished in a clear coat to help with longevity. It will be easier to put stickers on and off.
Here is another pic of the cage.

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/812/ijjj.jpg (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/ijjj.jpg/)

[RotaUte]

So you'd never go N/A?

s0HR95rRbyA

[trent from punchy]

that's a 10 grand motor.

[lightyear]

Exactly. Turbo costs much less. My 1.6 i have now cost me about $1100 to fully build. Mostly new standard parts. It can put out about 125-150 rwkw's depending on the tuner and the dyno. Aspirted it would owe me a shitload more for the same power. N/A is great for running in a specific class. But i win the under 3l class now. With the 1.8l it will bump me up to over 3l and put me against the skylines and evos. Then i will have some competition.

[Cal]

So you'd never go N/A?

s0HR95rRbyA

That's gay. Gary Stewart is making 220hp out of 1800cc with the standard inlet manifold. I'd expect that motor to push 280.

[lightyear]

Anyone can put up a video of an mx5 overtaking cars quickly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7MkG-yCo6tg

[lightyear]

It's been a while. I have been finishing our house and it is now sold. I have sold the 1.6 motor that is sitting in the enghine bay in the pics. And i am getting a 1.8 motor built with good parts to take massive boost. For now i am getting the motor tuned for 200 kw's so i don't break any diffs and boxes. Be running about 15 pound of boost controlled by a motec m800. I have a turbo 6 speed box, and changing the diff ratio from 4.1 to 3.9 so i don't run out of revs at phillip island. Should be done by may i hope. I will update with some more progress in the coming weeks.

[matt b]

So you'd never go N/A?

s0HR95rRbyA

I enjoyed that last pass!

[garvice]

Any reason why you are running a M800 and not the M400?

[RotaUte]

I agree on the whole n/a thing now, I started pricing up an engine build and it was beyond stupid to do. Will still go low buck n/a for now, but maybe turbo later in the year.

Pics/updates?

[CT]

It's been a while. I have been finishing our house and it is now sold. I have sold the 1.6 motor that is sitting in the enghine bay in the pics. And i am getting a 1.8 motor built with good parts to take massive boost. For now i am getting the motor tuned for 200 kw's so i don't break any diffs and boxes. Be running about 15 pound of boost controlled by a motec m800. I have a turbo 6 speed box, and changing the diff ratio from 4.1 to 3.9 so i don't run out of revs at phillip island. Should be done by may i hope. I will update with some more progress in the coming weeks.


You'll still break diffs, driveshafts and boxes especially at 200rwkw......even 1.8 ones.

[lightyear]

I think it is going to have torque pulled out somewhere in the rev range and maybe 4th too. I trust the guy that is doing it.

[lightyear]

Any reason why you are running a M800 and not the M400?

I don't know the differences, but that is what has been selected. I will have a few extra things like traction control, gps data logging, 8 injectors, etc.

[garvice]

8 injectors

Guess that is the reason. M400/600/800 are essentially the same computers except for the number of cylinders they are designed for. Looks like M800 is also the only one with telemetry and has bit more logging capability too. Either way, very nice computer, enjoy.

[Ben.]

does this thing have an M1 300 club sticker on the back window and were you on the south eastern yesterday?

[lightyear]

No, but i did push it out of the garage. It is just a rolling shell at the moment.

[Ben.]

ah k, seen an MX5 roundy round car on a trailer, with the sticker on top of the rear window and figured it would be a PF cunt, looked through threads but cant find one that matches, you know of anyone else on here that has a red one in vic?

[fattima]

That was me mate, coming back from PI

[lightyear]

The car is stripped down again and only the diff is in and the rear brakes. Now i have a whole new package going in.
The new 1.8 motor is getting built with a bp26 gtr crank, acl bearings, eagle rods, 83.5mm arias pistons, fully balanced with 184mm twin plate clutch and matching flywheel, main oil galleries machined for hi flow, main gallery rifle drilled chamfered, etc.
Bp4w head cnc cut seats, valves, cc'd, tuckin '99 adj cam gears, inlet manifold modified to run 2 sets of injectors. Motec m800, car will be run on e85 fuel only. Will be tuned for about 260 - 270 rwhp as that's all he feels the driveline will take safely. It will have some power/torque pulled out of 1st gear and more taken out of 3rd and 4th as they are the weakest gears in the factory turbo 6 speed i have. It will have variable traction control too, as well as accelorometer and gps tracking.
While that is getting done i am putting in a spare motor to dummy up the exhaust and intercooler fabrication. And i will be moulding all the panels and making my own changes in the next couple of weeks. The motor will be ready by mid april, so the car should be going by the end of april i hope. I am also getting corvette rotors and calipers for it.


Also the guy with the identical shell and cage doesn't want to build his car now. So if anyone wants to do something similiar and buy his car let me know. Would be great to still build 2 cars.

[Andy_W]

Who's doing the tuning - Meridian?

Awesome work :)

[Cal]

Will be tuned for about 260 - 270 rwhp as that's all he feels the driveline will take safely.

CT said that 2 weeks ago.

Just sayin.

[lightyear]

Who's doing the tuning - Meridian?

Awesome work :)

Tyrone

[Andy_W]

Tyrone

Cool :)

[Ned-Racing]

Tyrone should know better than anyone that the gearbox will not take that power. Both CT and I have gone through a number of the Turbo 6 speeds, we will now be running RB25 gearboxes.

Neil

[lightyear]

Well, he seems to think it will cope, and the car will be pretty light. What is invloved in fitting the rb25 box? Cost? And the ppf probably cannot be used. Then the next thing to break is axles and diff. Doh.
I did get a start on the widebody.


http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/1291/startofnewwidebody.jpg (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/startofnewwidebody.jpg/)

http://img651.imageshack.us/img651/8366/widebdy.jpg (http://img651.imageshack.us/i/widebdy.jpg/)

The top of the white box on the ground under the bumper is the ground level. And the splitter will sit on the drawn on line 70mm above the ground (also the bottom of the radiator opening). I hope that it's not too low, if it is, i can always cut out a strip to get more ground clearance.

[CT]

Tyrone

Cool....can you ask him when I might get my hardtop mould back??

thks

[lightyear]

I can ask for you.

I got a start on the rear wheel arch this evening. Still have to do the rear half.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/5113/widebodyside.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/i/widebodyside.jpg/)

[CussCuss]

wow

is here a reason for such a big extension on the front?

[Gammaboy]

wow

is here a reason for such a big extension on the front?

Makes the lap shorter.


Seriously though, for a given overall length you'll get more downforce on the front with a shorter nosecone and longer splitter.

[lightyear]

I thought that any surface that slants down toward the front will help with downforce. The splitter will be at the same level as the radiator opening, so it will be pretty long there. And maybe stick out about 150mm around the front edge.

[lightyear]

The drivers side is basically the right shape now. Just have to do the left rear tonight, it's not easy getting everything where you want it. Lots of measuring and checking. After that i will have to put all the flanges on and fair it all up. Probably 2-3days work in the final finishing before i can look at putting some undercoat on.

Pic of rear guard. It is similiar to the panspeed rx7.
http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/9199/widebodyrear.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/widebodyrear.jpg/)


http://img220.imageshack.us/img220/1990/wbcloser.jpg (http://img220.imageshack.us/i/wbcloser.jpg/)

[lightyear]

All the guards are done and just need a final sand. Then i can prime and paint them and make all the flanges.

http://img38.imageshack.us/img38/3948/rearvb.jpg (http://img38.imageshack.us/i/rearvb.jpg/)

http://img833.imageshack.us/img833/6530/vtty.jpg (http://img833.imageshack.us/i/vtty.jpg/)

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/7875/dagh.jpg (http://img844.imageshack.us/i/dagh.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Starting to look like a hover car.

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/384/ljgfjgjh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/64/ljgfjgjh.jpg/)

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/2765/ijghiuh.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/717/ijghiuh.jpg/)

[RotaUte]

Looking good!


I had a really good chat with this guy when we went to Tsukuba in Dec about MX5 aero, he said some pretty interesting stuff.

http://www.amb-aero.com/

[lightyear]

Not much info on that site.
I have got some primer on it and should have the final sanding finished tmrow.

http://img217.imageshack.us/img217/1662/primeds.jpg (http://img217.imageshack.us/i/primeds.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Does any one have any idea as to how i can get a jack under this thing once it is on the ground and assembled?? And i have also been thinking of how i am going to get it on the trailer. I might make a jacking point at the rear built into the diffuser. And for the front i will have to keep an area behind the front guards where the gills will be. That's all i can think of now, any suggestions besides built in jacks would be welcome.

I have sanded 3/4 of it today, and it only needs touching up in a few small places. So tonight i will go over it with some finer grade paper and it should be ready to start moulding. I am not going to paint it, the primer is a good enough surface, and by the time i wax it and put a few coats of p.v.a on it should be good to go without the woories of it sticking.

[BeverlyHillsCop]

Does any one have any idea as to how i can get a jack under this thing once it is on the ground and assembled?? And i have also been thinking of how i am going to get it on the trailer. I might make a jacking point at the rear built into the diffuser. And for the front i will have to keep an area behind the front guards where the gills will be. That's all i can think of now, any suggestions besides built in jacks would be welcome.



Jack points thru the sills integrated with the roll cage.

http://image.modified.com/f/car-events/2008-wrc-rally-new-zealand/10845189+cr1+re0+ar1/subaru-world-rally-team-service-solbergs-2008-sti-wrc.jpg

http://espimages.biz/2386/I/528/7/images_vhgk.jpg

[jezza323]

was gonna be my suggestion too

[trent from punchy]

i was gonna say just use these

http://www.justjdm.com.au/cart/picserve.cgi?picserve=/takata_lowdown_ramps.jpg

for the shiny datsun we made the front bar easily removable with a couple of clips.

[CussCuss]

is the problem getting a place to jack from or getting the car high enough to get a jack under?

[lightyear]

is the problem getting a place to jack from or getting the car high enough to get a jack under?

Both really, i will work something out as i go, but just wanted to see what other people have done.
It would also be intersting to see how they get the car up onto the triangle stands too.
The little plastic ramps would be enough to get it up far enough to for the jack, as i don't want to have to take the car apart every time i want to get a jack under it.

[dougmo]

just push/drive it up onto 4 blocks of wood to get the jack under it

[matt b]

I had the same issue with one of my cars.

I bought some leveling ramps from a caravan store for around $60 for the pair.

[buzz]

....as i don't want to have to take the car apart every time i want to get a jack under it.

which makes me ask - I presume the front clip is going to need to be quickly removable for getting it onto trailers, etc.

If you are going to be trying to get it close to the ground all around then you are going to have trouble getting even a low-height jack under any of the front or sides. It is pointless trying to get a jack under a front bar to a main crossmember as the jack handle needs space to travel that the bar will not give. It might actually be worthwhile considering building easily removable sections into the sides of the aero/skirts so you can access the jack points.

[lightyear]

Yep, i was thinking of doing some removable pieces like i had on my adventra side skirts. Or just have the side skirts easily removable, as well as the bumpers, splitter and diffuser. Then i guess the splitter support will need to be easily taken off too. And then the flat floor will probably be in the way. And i noticed the wheels sat pretty low too, so make them easy to remove also.

[trent from punchy]

the takata ones are made from recycled seat belt parts.

[CussCuss]

if you only have access to the rails after taking bits off, something like this might help

take a hockey puck, screw in a eye hook or something similar (something flat) and then you put it into a matching hole in the rail, turn 90 degrees so it locks and you have something perfectly shaped to the jack.

http://pages.sbcglobal.net/hummels/_images/Pucks.jpg

[Karnage]

Does any one have any idea as to how i can get a jack under this thing once it is on the ground and assembled?? And i have also been thinking of how i am going to get it on the trailer. I might make a jacking point at the rear built into the diffuser. And for the front i will have to keep an area behind the front guards where the gills will be. That's all i can think of now, any suggestions besides built in jacks would be welcome.

I have sanded 3/4 of it today, and it only needs touching up in a few small places. So tonight i will go over it with some finer grade paper and it should be ready to start moulding. I am not going to paint it, the primer is a good enough surface, and by the time i wax it and put a few coats of p.v.a on it should be good to go without the woories of it sticking.

What about a hinged section in the side skirt with say a dzus fastener?

[lightyear]

I will start moulding tmrow. All the modelling clay is on and the car is waxed. Just need to spray the p.v.a on in the morning and then i can get started.

http://img194.imageshack.us/img194/8472/waxon.jpg (http://img194.imageshack.us/i/waxon.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Gelcoat is on the bonnet and guards. Taken all day as it's too cool. The green is a good colour against the red panels, easy to see the thickness.

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/4601/greensg.jpg (http://img62.imageshack.us/i/greensg.jpg/)

[lightyear]

The mould for the bonnet and guards is done, just need to put some timber on it so it sits level on a bench and trim it.

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/4875/nbhood.jpg (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/nbhood.jpg/)

I ran out of green, so the second coat on the rear is red. Almost ready to keep going.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2250/gelcotr.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/i/gelcotr.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Front mould is off and so is a bit of plaster from arond the headlights, i have already fixed it and should be able to start the front bumper mould tmrow.
http://img546.imageshack.us/img546/4165/frontmo.jpg (http://img546.imageshack.us/i/frontmo.jpg/)

[stb]

So clearly you are replacing the front guards and bonnet with CF, are you also doing a complete rear clip or just the guards?
Sorry if that was mentioned earlier...

[lightyear]

I want to make as much of the car c.f as i can. For a start i will be doing the front guards and bonnet, the front bumper, the doors, the roof, the complete rear 1/4ers, the side skirts, and the boot. I will be doing the rear bumper if i have time too, as well as the dashboard.

[trent from punchy]

http://hundredone.cocolog-nifty.com/photos/uncategorized/cimg2572.jpg

This is the CF dash from one of the fastest roadasters in japan, there are step by step pics there somewhere.

[lightyear]

I am moulding the original dash as i am using the factory guages that will be hooked up to the motec.

Finished fixing up the front and got some gelcoat on.

http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/2017/gcfr.jpg (http://img15.imageshack.us/i/gcfr.jpg/)

And cleaned and trimmed the mould.

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/5210/mlddd.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/mlddd.jpg/)

http://img96.imageshack.us/img96/6320/mmmnyh.jpg (http://img96.imageshack.us/i/mmmnyh.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Front bumper mould is done, i will pull it off shortly and clean it up.

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/2401/frmk.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/frmk.jpg/)

[lightyear]

I finished the bumper mould.
In that 2nd pic the new bumper goes to the front edge of that white board.

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/9433/gfbfg.jpg (http://img196.imageshack.us/i/gfbfg.jpg/)


And got the first layer of c.f in the bonnet mould. I put a join in the centre so the c.f lines will match down the sides of the car.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/6945/dastn.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/i/dastn.jpg/)

[bigmuz]

How the fuck did I miss this thread? Oh I know- cause it has the words 'time attack' and 'mx5' in the title and I am straight.

:D

But seriously that is nice work. I'm tipping that your neighbours hate you by now?

[lightyear]

:)
How the fuck did I miss this thread? Oh I know- cause it has the words 'time attack' and 'mx5' in the title and I am straight.


But seriously that is nice work. I'm tipping that your neighbours hate you by now?

LOL, do youy think it would fit in to the gay and lesbian madegra?? <spelling. :D
It's almost wide enough to be a float.

I have a big back yard, so no complaints from neighbours. YET.

[lightyear]

I infused the bonnet mould today, i used epoxy for the first time to infuse, it gets very hot. I measured 196c on the left over resin before throwing the smoking pot out of the garage and pouring water over it. Vinylester is much easier to work with. But the epoxy infused so fast, a couple of minutes to do that huge mould. I hardly had time to take a pic before it fully infused - as can be seen by the white triangle that was gone seconds later.

http://img232.imageshack.us/img232/985/infiu.jpg (http://img232.imageshack.us/i/infiu.jpg/)

[lightyear]

I placed the bonnet/guards on the car. Turned out good.



http://img854.imageshack.us/img854/8444/frrr.jpg (http://img854.imageshack.us/i/frrr.jpg/)

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/6036/cfclr.jpg (http://img576.imageshack.us/i/cfclr.jpg/)

[sssgtr]

Lightyear, do you do composites for a living?

[Ned Loh]

jeez you don't muck around. Top effort for at home, but you obviously have the skill set.

More details of how you lay up please (if you don't mind). Looks like you make a vacuum bag to suit panel???

I tried a little bit of wet lay up a few years ago but had a lot of trouble with curves, bends, and corners. Flat panels were easy.

[lightyear]

Lightyear, do you do composites for a living?

No, not yet. I am a tiler by trade, but over the years i have done almost all building work - from concrete, bathrooms, glass pool fencing, timber work, etc,etc. I even built a 12 metre motor boat. I got into vac inf c.f as i couldn't buy the bits i wanted so i found out how to do it, and bought all the gear.
At the moment i am a stay at home dad with a 15 month old, and another on the way. So it will be a couple of years before i can look at spending more time doing c.f work for others.

[rorge]

Unless we own MX5's.. :P That is looking awesome!!!

I love my hardtop! Lightest thing ever!! Although I cracked the clearcoat on my driver mount when the 5 got a little out of shape the other day.. :/

I was tempted by your spare shell I must say! :(

[lightyear]

Finally got a sunny day, the bonnet is out in the sun and it is averaging about 68c. I have almost finished laying up the front bumper, just have to put the infusion mesh, inf channel and stick the bag on. Then spend the rest of the arvo chasing leakes probably, before i can infuse it.

The c.f hardtops are pretty light hey. The spare car is a bargain, and i can't believe nobody has bought it yet.

[sssgtr]

Awesome work mate.

Can I ask where you purchase your composites stuff from? Ie fabric/s, vac bags, gel coats, resins etc? I've been meaning to give vac bagging / infusion a go for sometime, and now that I have the room, I'd like to make some small parts up for practice.

[lightyear]

I get most of it from dick at ironbark.

I have had a cunt of a time with the bumper vac bag. It has a leak and i can not find it. I even bagged the back of the bumper as well incase there is a hole in the mould so the whole mould is in a bag. Still has a leak. It was ready to infuse yesterday arvo, and i havespent last night and today trying to find the leak. I will be getting a leak detector to find the problem. That's always a hassle with vac infusion. Always chasing the leaks, because you can't start if it has a leak. It could have been done and sitting in the sun all day.

[rorge]

The c.f hardtops are pretty light hey. The spare car is a bargain, and i can't believe nobody has bought it yet.

Yeah it is tempting but I need road rego on mine still and I think that cage might make it a little tricky! :D

[lightyear]

Finally found the leak in the bag. I will strip it tmrow and start on the rear 1/4ers. Then i will bond the bumper and bonnet together to make a 1 piece front clip.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/8695/frbi.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/frbi.jpg/)

Hopefully be a nice pic of me bumper tmrow.

[sssgtr]

Are you using a resin trap so you don't suck resin into the vac pump? Or are you shutting off the resin feed once the whole part is wet?

[lightyear]

I have a resin trap and i also shut off the resin. After the resin is shut off you still get some resin going into the trap.

[lightyear]

Bumper is out, took me 2 hours to strip out the peel ply and inf mesh. Still has the clay around the opening, and needs a wash to get the p.v.a off.

http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/7898/garfc.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/i/garfc.jpg/)

[sssgtr]

I have a resin trap and i also shut off the resin. After the resin is shut off you still get some resin going into the trap.

Got any details on it? Or did you buy a commercial one?

[lightyear]

Yep, i bought a comercial one from dick.

I couldn't help myself. Had to put the front together to see how it will look. It is sitiing a bit high at the front on the bricks. And it all still needs trimming so isn't sitting in the exact spot yet.

http://img155.imageshack.us/img155/6259/ggggggggga.jpg (http://img155.imageshack.us/i/ggggggggga.jpg/)

[willsy01]

Man, that's gonna suck on driveways....

[garvice]

Can I ask why you made the bumper so long?
Is it for aerodynamics?

[lightyear]

Yep, i wanted there to be more on the front on an angle to help with downforce. I also wanted the opening at the very bottom edge touching the splitter.
Washed and trimmed.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/6930/nnvlv.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/i/nnvlv.jpg/)

http://img62.imageshack.us/img62/2825/fdgsdf.jpg (http://img62.imageshack.us/i/fdgsdf.jpg/)

[bigmuz]

I only know basics about epoxies but they are usually slow as a wet week.

I have never heard of any epoxy getting hot or going off fast- how does that work?

When you 'infuse' are you brushing resin and then using the bag to squeeze it through the cloth? Do you brush the gelcoat?

You are doing some amazing stuff there man. I appreciate the updates.

[turbo510]

The cf is layed up dry, vac bagged and then the resin is sucked through it by the vacumn pump.

http://bodykits.wordpress.com/2008/01/16/how-the-vacuum-infusion-process-works/

[thechuckster]

Going back a few posts, the sill stands that the rally guys use are not their jacking points. They still shove a low-profile jack under the front & rear and lift up via the cross-members and/or sump guard.

[Mini_Me]

missed this thread, fantastic work! Look forward to following the build

[e30guy]

Going back a few posts, the sill stands that the rally guys use are not their jacking points. They still shove a low-profile jack under the front & rear and lift up via the cross-members and/or sump guard.

And more importantly they have little ramps they use to get the front of the car up about 150mm first.

[BeverlyHillsCop]

Going back a few posts, the sill stands that the rally guys use are not their jacking points. They still shove a low-profile jack under the front & rear and lift up via the cross-members and/or sump guard.

can be jacked up from either point there if they wanted to.

[lightyear]

The cf is layed up dry, vac bagged and then the resin is sucked through it by the vacumn pump.

http://bodykits.wordpress.com/2008/01/16/how-the-vacuum-infusion-process-works/

Correct, because the bag is a negative pressure with the vac pump running - when you open the line to the resin it is sucked in to the mould.
Epoxy is a bit slower to gel, about 45 minutes.

[lightyear]

Thanks for the tip on the little ramps, i don't think i will be using the triangles as i have not made anything to support them.

[Gammaboy]

Going back a few posts, the sill stands that the rally guys use are not their jacking points. They still shove a low-profile jack under the front & rear and lift up via the cross-members and/or sump guard.

I think they also use those sill jacking points if they need to jack the car up on a transport or special stage.

[fly510]

I think they also use those sill jacking points if they need to jack the car up on a transport or special stage.

yep.

[lightyear]

Front clip i now mounted to the car with 4 bonnet pins.

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/8569/gtfs.jpg (http://img684.imageshack.us/i/gtfs.jpg/)

[Monk]

Looks a bit front end heavy.

[buzz]

I can see this with snake eyes and fangs painted on it...

What does that front clip weigh?, just curious.

[fantapants]

just curious, besides being envious of your skills :), that if the front clip is only held oin with bonnet pins, how is it going to transfer any aerodynamic forces to the chassis?

[RotaUte]

Are you gonna do some kinda wind tunnel testing on it?

[lightyear]

I can see this with snake eyes and fangs painted on it...

What does that front clip weigh?, just curious.

The whole front with bonnet latches weighs 7.8kg's. The original alloy bonnet alone is slightly heavier.

[lightyear]

just curious, besides being envious of your skills :), that if the front clip is only held oin with bonnet pins, how is it going to transfer any aerodynamic forces to the chassis?

Well there is alloy plates underneath the bonnet at the pins to help with load, and most of the high pressure will be at the front - and that will transfer directly to the splitter. The idea is more to stop negative downforce that a normal car has and try to get some positive downforce.

[lightyear]

Are you gonna do some kinda wind tunnel testing on it?

I have had a lot of people ask about the aero and if i have done simulations or wind tunnel testing. The answer is no. I will do some wool tuft testing once it is finished to get an idea of how it is working. And if need be modify it to work better if possible.

I didn't just pluck this design out of nowhere. It is based on cars that have done wind tunnel testing and are succesfull race cars. I took ideas that i could transfer to my car, and a design that is simple to make.

[lightyear]

Rear 1/4 is done. Just need to cut off the original rear 1/4 so it sits in the right spot. It weighs 2.2kg's.

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/9427/imag0048b.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/imag0048b.jpg/)

http://img837.imageshack.us/img837/5513/imag0053yz.jpg (http://img837.imageshack.us/i/imag0053yz.jpg/)

http://img593.imageshack.us/img593/4199/imag0055f.jpg (http://img593.imageshack.us/i/imag0055f.jpg/)

[bigmuz]

2.2kgs is staggering...

Do you weigh the bits you cut off?

[lightyear]

I try to weigh the bits that come off. But at the end of the day when it gets corner weighted it will tell me if i have saved much weight. I would love it to be 7xx kg's, but more realistically it will probably weigh low 800's.

[RotaUte]

Is it gonna be ready for time attack in Aug?

[fantapants]

what sort of integral strengthening are you doin??? or anything?? :D looks great :)

[lightyear]

I don't think it will be ready for time attack as we are moving in 6 weeks and i have to pack the house up. As well as move in to the new house and build a new garage there.

Intergral strength for what??

The other rear 1/4 inside - taken 1 hour to get the peel ply and infusion layers off (black area), still have the rest to go.

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/3417/30march2011005.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/i/30march2011005.jpg/)


New intercooler.

http://img4.imageshack.us/img4/9594/30march2011001.jpg (http://img4.imageshack.us/i/30march2011001.jpg/)

[fantapants]

sorry, the panels........ to stop the panels buckling under the pressure differences at high speed... ? :)

[lightyear]

By the time they are attatched to the car i don't think they will need any extra support. The only place that might need support is the trailing edge of the bonnet.

[lightyear]

I finished the other rear 1/4.

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/880/30march2011006.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/i/30march2011006.jpg/)


Cut out a little bit of metal from the rear 1/4 areas.


http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2166/30march2011011.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/i/30march2011011.jpg/)







Rear guard is riveted on. ( i also did a quick lowering job in paint to get it sitting at the right ride height) AND i removed 15.9kg's of weight.

http://img849.imageshack.us/img849/7774/sidevv.jpg (http://img849.imageshack.us/i/sidevv.jpg/)

[profi]

Roughly, what's did the rear quarters cost to do in carbon?

[lightyear]

In materials only? Well you got c.f about 3-4 sqm. $200. 2.5-3.0l of epoxy resin $60. Soric, peel ply, inf mesh, inf chanel, silicon hose, plastic bag, t pieces, tacky spray,tacky tape, wax, p.v.a mould release, etc... Maybe another $200. About 20 hours labour by the time you prep, lay up, bag, infuse, strip and trim. And another 4-6 hours of wasted time looking for leaks in the bag. Plus you would have to charge some money for the mould.

[Daveee]

Front guards look very Audit S1 to me! :yup:

[lightyear]

I don't think i will be getting much done now for a while as i have to start packing up the house and garage stuff, put it in containers and move it all in to the new house. I also have to knock down the garage at the new place and build a new one. Then after that i have to do some work in my spare time to make some money to pay for the rest of the gear for the mx5. I would say 3-4 months before i can do some serious work on it. I will try and sneak in some work if i can. I really wanted the body work done before we move. If i get a chance i will do the doors and boot, that way the basic body work will be finished. Then it is on to the aero and underneath, as well as sorting out the running gear and brakes, etc.

[lightyear]

And i ended up cutting out the bright orange bit that goes around the boot. It weighed about 2kg's. And it's not needed. I will no doubt cut more metal out of it befroe it is fully finished.
http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/3799/30march2011010.jpg (http://img148.imageshack.us/i/30march2011010.jpg/)

This is the rear shot, i decided to keep the oem taillights as they are very light and it keeps it looking like the car it is supposed to be.

Bad pic...

http://img848.imageshack.us/img848/2677/30march2011016.jpg (http://img848.imageshack.us/i/30march2011016.jpg/)

[devo]

could you take a few pics of the process of making the panels? such as when you're working on the shape you want, making the mould etc?

[lightyear]

What exactly do you want to know? What are you thinking of doing?

[devo]

just general curiosity. I've never seen how people go about making the original mould (materials, shaping etc) or vacuum bagging.

[lightyear]

Go onto youtube for vac bagging and also to see what i do - vac infusion - also known as resin transfer moulding or rtm. There are plenty of videos. Making the moulds depends on the shape you want and what materials you are comfortable using.

[lightyear]

Boot mould is made, and i infused a c.f boot and put a corecell frame on it to stiffen it up.

http://img836.imageshack.us/img836/8828/bootmould.jpg (http://img836.imageshack.us/i/bootmould.jpg/)

And started on the door getting it ready to mould.

http://img864.imageshack.us/img864/1630/doormouldstart.jpg (http://img864.imageshack.us/i/doormouldstart.jpg/)

After i do the doors (4 more moulds) then all the external panels will be done. I have a big table of flat 12mm glass that i will be using to make all the flat panels, like underneath and the boot floor, etc.

[lightyear]

I weighed the boot, it's 1.3 kg's with the frame and it still needs trimming around the edges. It is really stiff now, can hardly twist it and it doesn't bend at all. Should weigh 1.2 kg's when it is finished.

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/5620/boott.jpg (http://img826.imageshack.us/i/boott.jpg/)

[womblesti]

This is really cool. I wish I had the skills.

I may have missed it in the thread but is this for the once a year time attack thingy or are you planning to use it elsewhere?

[lightyear]

I will be doing track days with our club, and any other competition that i can get to, like vic superlap, aus superlap, hillclimbs, etc. And when i feel up to it get it ready for 2l s.s.

[lightyear]

Doors are almost ready for moulding.

http://img580.imageshack.us/img580/6771/drrbb.jpg (http://img580.imageshack.us/i/drrbb.jpg/)

[bigmuz]

Just bog and sanding?

[lightyear]

I just used a sheet of mdf, and plaster basecoat with plaster top coat once the shape is close. Then i put on a high fill primer, guidecoat then wet sand. It's good enough to take a mould off, and after your finished it all comes off and then you can sell the panels.
Bog is too hard to sand, and it costs more than the left over plaster i have from the home reno's.

Boot trimmed -
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/6909/30march2011038.jpg (http://img231.imageshack.us/i/30march2011038.jpg/)



http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/6150/bbboot.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/bbboot.jpg/)

[lightyear]

Passenger inner door is ready for moulding -

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/5513/doorreadyformould.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/i/doorreadyformould.jpg/)

[Alex.P]

Every time is see new pics in this thread my pants get tight. Now stop it! hahahah

Awesome work mate.

[lightyear]

I did a quick walk around with my new phone -

http://youtu.be/Q_SIzoAd8Z0

[Linkstar69]

I've always been curious of cf part making but your build makes it look effortless, thats a credit to you.

[lightyear]

Moved into the new place, the previous owners thought it was a good idea to leave 6 cubic metres of rubish here. So for i have trimmed the fence line, about 8 cubic metres of green waste. Removed the asbestos cladding from the garage, knocked down the frame. Cleaned up the area, and i bought a 6x10 garage. Slab will be down on wednesday, and the garage should be up by sunday i hope.

The old garage 3m x 9m.
http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/3931/43431f6221400875800.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/851/43431f6221400875800.jpg/)

Also a garden shed full of shyt, and crap everywhere in the yard.

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/11/4ec626cd5895538800vv.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/221/4ec626cd5895538800vv.jpg/)


I have to upload the other pics.

[lightyear]

This is the garage after i removed all the cladding and bashed all the frame from one side

http://img200.imageshack.us/img200/50/imag0205u.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/200/imag0205u.jpg/)

Garage all gone.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/692/4d78a5c1e2353303800.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/263/4d78a5c1e2353303800.jpg/)

This is my ebay garage, it is a 6m x 10m fully lined, (Pic is after i removed the lining from the walls) skillion roof, air conditioned and remote 4.7m rollerdoor. I got it for $710. And the guy paid me $50 to take some rubish away. Took me 2.5 days to take it all down by myself due to the lining mainly.

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/1271/imag0213f.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/707/imag0213f.jpg/)

I decided to do the slab myself thinking it should not be too bad as there is good access and i can just use the shute. I was wrong..... the truck couldn't fit thru and i had to barrow 3 cubic meters, shovel it, and screed it by myself. Farken hard work.
Did that friday, and today i did 1.6 cubic metres and ordered a mini mix. Much easier.
I decided to cut the 6m lengths from the roof in half and make a pitched roof as i am making the garage 5m x 9.1m. It ends up at 32 deg roof pitch just from making it 1m narrower. (you can see the 1st frame laying on the slab i poured yesterday)

http://img856.imageshack.us/img856/8380/imag0215l.jpg (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/856/imag0215l.jpg/)

Hopefully tomrow i can have all the frames welded up and if anyone is in the benteigh area tomrow i could use a hand to help stand them up.

[bigmuz]

Fuck you are a fuckin doer. Good stuff mate.

[matt b]

Fuck you are a fuckin doer. Good stuff mate.

I was just thinking the same thing.

[garvice]

HA, picket fence formwork. I love it. Well done.