proflow fuel fittings/line?

[greenhj]

shit is getting serious, engine got mocked up today and im staring at a totally nowhere near finished car.

Now, with my desire to have a fuel system thats ethanol/methanol ready (for future explorations) ive been scouring the interwebs looking for hose/tube/pipe that is safe for extended alcohol use.

VPW have "proflow" branded stuff, and they also list an E85 rated hose, its ugly black stuff and it aint super cheap but rather than fuck around im thinking of buying it and getting something done with the car.

Anyone used or have opinion on Proflow brand hose/fittings?

Please bear in mind with your reply i will be fitting 5/8" (dash10) sized lines so 3/8" crap off a roll from ripco thats ethanol ready probably wont help me.

I wouldve used teflon lined braided and stainless steel hard line but time is fucking me and im getting sick of rooting around with research and no car fixing.

cheers!

[PLAYA]

I have a few of the fittings here, personally I have used all speed slow butt his was 90% bought before pro flow was around.

I would check some prices of say Russell from USA? The fittings and hoses between Russell and speed flow are not compatible.

Also for E85 I gave set up my whole sr20 in Teflon braid, wasn't cheap though.

[greenhj]

i pretty much have to redo the whole fuel system so fitting compatibility isnt an issue for the new install.

Speedflow (who ive always used, and the stuff is good) dont seem to list teflon lined in -10 or id be using it.

I havent scoured any yank sites yet for an appropriate setup so im open to recomendations of decent fittings and hose that will cope with alcohol later.

Im greatly sick of the odour leaching in "normal" hose types using unleaded so i want to get away from that too, the teflon would be fine id imagine but the E85 proflow hose im not so sure about.

[PLAYA]

I am pretty sure they only goto -8 in teflon, just check on jegs for russell to get a price indication and go from there.

Not sure what hose to use at -10 and over.

[10sec rx7]

speedflow do -10 in teflon,

[BMWTurbo]

How much fuel do you need to supply?

I was told using E85 I can supply 12L/min through a -8 feed and return.

[greenhj]

i remember heckling cuntdave about this very issue, but the A1000 pump i have seems to recommend a -10 feed and return and the aeromotive guy I spoke to pre purchase of the pump says the larger line is preferred.

Flow rate, i have no idea whats required, but this is a bitch engine and the goal one day is to make double the power of what this one will do (a mans engine should make 1000+ these days)so id rather try and overspec the fuel system now to save some grief later, and since the pump specs -10 im not working outside its "operating range" with lines of that size.

compatibility with alcohol is just in case i decide to go that way at some point, though the pump may be a tad small for big hp on alky it would be fine for my bitch motor

I couldnt find reference to -10 teflon, but cheers Dale, ill have a gander or annoy speedpro up the road about it!

edit: found the -10 in the catalogue, couldnt see it on the sucky website, thanks again Dale!

[BMWTurbo]

I can't see a scenario where it isn't better to go bigger with fuel lines, aside from the fact you need to run the things from to rear and ease of fitment etc.

It's interesting that Aeromotive say -10 for the A1000 but Fuelab told me -8 would be fine with the 42401.

Thought I had this almost nutted out :P

I like the look of the new Aremotive 11140 pumps. Walbro size, but flow more. Thinking about using one as a lift pump to feed my swirl pot. Should flow over 6.5L/min into no load.

[BoganDAVE]

i remember heckling cuntdave about this very issue, but the A1000 pump i have seems to recommend a -10 feed and return and the aeromotive guy I spoke to pre purchase of the pump says the larger line is preferred.


:p

and the a2000 lists a -12 feed, bigger again.

[greenhj]

ha, i was waiting for you to show up...giffuct.

[Alex.P]

I made alloy hardlines for all the plumbing on my bastard. fuel, turbo lines, surge tanks lines etc. It is cheap, durable and nuts and sleeves for them are cheap as.
Just a thought. Alloy is also easy to bend.

[Mr Ed]

I made alloy hardlines for all the plumbing on my bastard. fuel, turbo lines, surge tanks lines etc. It is cheap, durable and nuts and sleeves for them are cheap as.
Just a thought. Alloy is also easy to bend.
This is what I wanna do for most of mine. Care to share where you got all your gear? :)

[Alex.P]

Mscn in seven hills. The line is very cheap also. Bending is easy and like I mentioned earlier the ends(nuts and sleeves) are cheap as.

[greenhj]

whats the alloy lines rated pressure?

[Alex.P]

Unsure about pressure ratings although I have used it in a/c systems high pressure lines and they can reac up to 250psi and way past that when there are valve problems with no issues.

[Mr Ed]

Mscn in seven hills. The line is very cheap also. Bending is easy and like I mentioned earlier the ends(nuts and sleeves) are cheap as.
Cheers :)

[crack]

Mscn in seven hills. The line is very cheap also. Bending is easy and like I mentioned earlier the ends(nuts and sleeves) are cheap as.

does the tube come coiled? if so, how did you straighten it?

did you flare the ends yourself? if so, how much for the flaring tool?

how did you account for relative movement between engine and chassis? small hose section?

any pics of finished product?

[Alex.P]

Yeah mate I have the flaring tool. Both double and single flairing and in both deg 37 and 45.

Yes it comes coiled and is very easy to straighten out by hand.

I have only two small hose section, they are return and feed both short from the rail to the firewall.

[greenhj]

all the ally ive used came coiled, i bore a hole through a 4" block of hardwood and carefully feed the coil through to straighten it as nice as possible.

Bending tool is just a cheap arse plumbing spec thing from bunnings but the stuff can be worked around obstacles by hand if required.

I usually make the long run in 2 pieces and put a join under the car, just so its a bit easier to keep it neat and workable.

Flaring, ill admit to a bit of rough cuntness because I couldnt find a cheap 37 degree flaring tool, so i used a 45 degree double flare tool (generic shit, but it works ok, might have been 50 bucks)

I did have "some" issues with single flares cracking in the past, but that could well be the wrong tool/overtightened/idiot installer syndrome, but i do like the double flare and have never had leaks since even with the wrong flare angle.

I think rather than paying big dollars for a 37 degree flare tool, ill be getting the 45 degree tool i have and having a man reprofile the flare head to 37 degree in the lathe, i still reckon it would be cheaper than a 37 degree branded tool.

lots of companies make compression fittings to suit if flaring will bother you.

I used alloy for as much of the run as i could, and just added hose at each end for pump/engine.

[Alex.P]

Um there may be pics in my thread or if you like I can put some up tonight.

[bahaimus]

Cheap 37 degree single flare tool?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311

[Alex.P]

good flare tool is 250 from mscn. That does all the dash sizes till -12.

That two fifty bux saved me hundreds and hundreds in fittings so i gues it was worth it.

The double flare tool i use mainly for work making brake lines for street cars.

[Alex.P]

http://www.my9a.com/tools.asp

it is the one in this article.

[greenhj]

Cheap 37 degree single flare tool?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-900311

damn, that is cheap.

Im not sure i even had internet, a credit card, or a good AUD to play with when i bought my flaring tool lol.