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Project Car: 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner build thread!

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    #31
    You mentioned that you weren't happy with the paint?

    If that paint is acryllic you should be able to get a bit more gloss with a good cut and polish.. you might even need to web rub it first with some 2000grit wet and dry to flatten out any peel (can't tell if there is any from the pics)
    Theoretically you can buff Acrylic into a better gloss than two-pac if you know what you are doing.

    If you do it yourself do alot of research first (google is your friend) and if you choose to pay someone probably spend a bit more money and find a proper paint restoration guy as opposed to a regular car detailer.
    Ride : Turbo LPG Gemini - http://www.ozgemini.com/forums/non-t...hp?f=6&t=25363

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      #32
      Sheel, thanks for the info mate!
      Yeah its been painted in acrylic, but its a satin sorta finish. They said it would look better given the minimal bodywork I was willing to pay for. However there are areas where the prep wasnt done properly and bits have flaked off. Also around the windows some of the filler wasnt smoothed properly and things dont look straight.
      I thought of just getting some clear coat sprayed over it to gloss it up and make it look good, but I think before I do that I would go through and fix up some of the shit prep work and spend a bit of time. Might even be worth getting a proper paint resto dude to do it properly. Should have done that in the first place, but I was expecting the whole affair to be much cheaper than it was....

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        #33
        somuchwin.jpg
        Proudly presenting the new foot long chocolate Subway.
        Originally posted by ALLMTR
        Rats tail haircut used to mean make sure the OC spray is shaken

        Comment


          #34
          Nice thread. Chrysler Ball joints are threaded, and screw into the control arm. Lots of non-Chrysler places don't know this and try to press them in, fucking both the ball joint and UCA. This becomes a safety issue if the BJ were to pop out whilst on the move.

          /don'tmeantotellyouwhatyouprobablyalreadyknow
          Originally posted by Billzilla
          Remember - Ignorance in the true sense of the word does not equal stupidity.
          Wilful ignorance does though.

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            #35
            how much do those seats cost and where?

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              #36
              I would have stuck with the factory seats and probably wouldn't have bolted the coil to the inner guard but everything else is win.

              Let me know if you want to sell the 383, I'm after one for the VE ute, but you can stroke them out to 496ci. Then if you want a big blower you could probably get one under a decent scoop because the 383 is a B-motor and therefore shorter than the RB-motor (raised block). I believe Dyers do a B-motor blower kit (manifolds are different b to rb because of deck height).

              Sorry if this is shit you already know, but I don't see the point in buying a 440 and stroker kit to go to 520 cubes when you can buy a stoker kit and take the engine you've got out to 496ci already.

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                #37
                rbman, the seats are Procar Rally seats, they are about 1200 bucks a pair. You can get them off ebay sometimes, but I got mine from a mob called Muscle Car Factory down in NSW. Let me know if you want their number. Seats seem good quality. I would have kept the originals, but it would have cost me just as much to have them re-built as to buy the new procar ones, and i'm a skinny fucker so they hold me in a bit better.

                Turbohemi, thanks for your info man! Actually I appreciate getting another opinion! I have one of the 6-pack fiberglass hoods coming for it with a big scoop built in, so it will probably clear a blower as you said. The reason I was going to go with a big crate motor is the price. I can import a 522 with alloy heads and all the gear for around 10k. I figure to get a stroker kit and all the beans for the current motor I would be coming close to that anyway. It is nice having a low deck block though. If I go with the crate donk I will definately be looking to sell the 383. I am curious though now, as doing a 496 blown stroker would be pretty sick. I would imagine I would need pretty much all new internals though and a set of alloy heads too... Would also be less of a waste of all the bits ive already bought like dizzy, ignition box, carb, manifold etc...
                Thoughts?
                Oh and P.S the coil on the fender was the idea of the dorks who painted it. I have ordered a bracket to bolt it vertically in front of the intake manifold ;)

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by 68RNR View Post
                  rbman, the seats are Procar Rally seats, they are about 1200 bucks a pair. You can get them off ebay sometimes, but I got mine from a mob called Muscle Car Factory down in NSW. Let me know if you want their number. Seats seem good quality. I would have kept the originals, but it would have cost me just as much to have them re-built as to buy the new procar ones, and i'm a skinny fucker so they hold me in a bit better.

                  Turbohemi, thanks for your info man! Actually I appreciate getting another opinion! I have one of the 6-pack fiberglass hoods coming for it with a big scoop built in, so it will probably clear a blower as you said. The reason I was going to go with a big crate motor is the price. I can import a 522 with alloy heads and all the gear for around 10k. I figure to get a stroker kit and all the beans for the current motor I would be coming close to that anyway. It is nice having a low deck block though. If I go with the crate donk I will definately be looking to sell the 383. I am curious though now, as doing a 496 blown stroker would be pretty sick. I would imagine I would need pretty much all new internals though and a set of alloy heads too... Would also be less of a waste of all the bits ive already bought like dizzy, ignition box, carb, manifold etc...
                  Thoughts?
                  Oh and P.S the coil on the fender was the idea of the dorks who painted it. I have ordered a bracket to bolt it vertically in front of the intake manifold ;)
                  If you can get a 522 cuber for $10K landed then that's certianly a good deal.

                  Yep, anyway you go with a stroker you'll need decent alloy heads. No point going all those cubes and choking it with cast iron heads.

                  When you get the new hood, run a tape over it to measure the height from the valley to the top of the inside of the scoop, if you can't keep the blower under it then there's no point going that route in my opinion (unless you want to keep you car restricted to powercruise type events) and it would make more sense going the big stoker route. Or you could go the procharger style blower and keep it all under the boonet like this Charger I filmed at Heathcote.

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                    #39
                    Dude that is an awesome charger. Sounds unreal!
                    I like the blower option, could always do that later if I need more grunt. The way I look at it, engines are so cheap to get out of the states, it would effectively be cheaper to just buy the 520 crate motor all complete than to build the 383. Especially if I can sell the 383 to someone and make some cash back.
                    CM Engines do a 522 cube motor with edelbrock alloy heads, 10.5:1 comp and lumpy cams, with carby and an MSD dizzy to bolt straight into my MSD 6AL. Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep. I rekon thats bloody good value, and I dont have to go through the rigmarole of getting my block tested, honed etc and then built up. No substitute for big cubes I rekon.
                    Still, pity to waste what i've already spent up on the 383, but I guess that makes it attractive for someone to buy? Should make decent grunt for me in the interim anyway until I can afford the new donk. Still gotta get the 727 rebuilt before I do anything drastic anyway! Any suggestions on who could do a decent job of that?

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                      #40
                      love it and love the orange. great choice
                      welcome.
                      Originally posted by doods189
                      Will throw in around $3000 worth of reptiles and acc as part payment and maybe if partner let's me a 50in plasma 3d tv

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by 68RNR View Post
                        Dude that is an awesome charger. Sounds unreal!
                        I like the blower option, could always do that later if I need more grunt. The way I look at it, engines are so cheap to get out of the states, it would effectively be cheaper to just buy the 520 crate motor all complete than to build the 383. Especially if I can sell the 383 to someone and make some cash back.
                        CM Engines do a 522 cube motor with edelbrock alloy heads, 10.5:1 comp and lumpy cams, with carby and an MSD dizzy to bolt straight into my MSD 6AL. Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep. I rekon thats bloody good value, and I dont have to go through the rigmarole of getting my block tested, honed etc and then built up. No substitute for big cubes I rekon.
                        Still, pity to waste what i've already spent up on the 383, but I guess that makes it attractive for someone to buy? Should make decent grunt for me in the interim anyway until I can afford the new donk. Still gotta get the 727 rebuilt before I do anything drastic anyway! Any suggestions on who could do a decent job of that?
                        Not sure who to use up there for autos, but I agree that 550-600hp for $10K is great value when talking Mopar (more expensive than Chevy gear). You probably won't get alot for the 383 (they don't get the dollars that 440s bring) but I'd say you'd get $2k pretty easy. To get more you could probably bolt the old gear back on (if you've still got it all) and sell that separately on Mopar Market or something.

                        The only reason I want a 383 over a 440 is because I want to make my VE val ute a GTS Dart replica with the 383 option. Plus the lower deck height makes the 383 an easier swap. Done the 440 swap before and everything is tight as fuck, but damn fun to drive.

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                          #42
                          Originally posted by turbohemi View Post
                          The only reason I want a 383 over a 440 is because I want to make my VE val ute a GTS Dart replica with the 383 option. Plus the lower deck height makes the 383 an easier swap. Done the 440 swap before and everything is tight as fuck, but damn fun to drive.
                          Yeah totally agree with you. Going to be a slow and expensive excercise to make the 383 breath fire, so I might just settle for cleaning it up with some paint and flogging it off as a nice runner. If you are looking for one I think we could probably hook something up. I will be looking to offload it in a couple of months once I order the new donk. I will be able to give you videos of it running and all that. Anyway we can talk about that outside this if you end up being keen ;)

                          VE Val with a 383 would be bloody good fun. I think the 383 is a fair bit lighter than the 440 as well, probably a bonus in your Val. Especially if you threw some alloy heads on ;).

                          Comment


                            #43
                            Originally posted by 68RNR View Post
                            Yeah totally agree with you. Going to be a slow and expensive excercise to make the 383 breath fire, so I might just settle for cleaning it up with some paint and flogging it off as a nice runner. If you are looking for one I think we could probably hook something up. I will be looking to offload it in a couple of months once I order the new donk. I will be able to give you videos of it running and all that. Anyway we can talk about that outside this if you end up being keen ;)

                            VE Val with a 383 would be bloody good fun. I think the 383 is a fair bit lighter than the 440 as well, probably a bonus in your Val. Especially if you threw some alloy heads on ;).
                            Yeah, I think with alloy heads, manifold water pump and housing it would be no heavier than a small block. Let me know when you're ready to sell.

                            This is kind of the look I'm going for with the ute.

                            Comment


                              #44
                              Originally posted by 68RNR View Post
                              Makes 550 - 600 horsepower and would be less than 10 grand on my doorstep.
                              Engine on doorstep? You're doing it wrong!

                              522 sounds good
                              I own a two and a half litre Commodore

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                                #45
                                Sweet man that will look (and sound) awesome. Love the darts, thats what I was going to look for until the Roadrunner came up. I will definately give you a yell when the engine is ready to go. Probably be around April/May? It will come with the new manifold, MSD billet dizzy (wont fit i the RB block I'm ordering), new holley DP 750, MSD leads, high flow water pump and headers etc. Pretty decent donk. Had it compression tested and it was decent, runs really nice. Only fault I can find is the cam lobes look a bit worn (had a squiz when I did the manifold). It will probably be a rebuild job sometime down the track but decent runner for now.

                                Love that dart, especially with the red bumble bee stripe. Kickass.

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