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Thread: Ive stripped my engine block turbo oil feed thread

  1. #1
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    Ive stripped my engine block turbo oil feed thread

    Bugger!

    Car had been sitting for about 4 months so decided to crank it over & fire it up (as I had made a lot of changes and wanted to make sure she still ran!).... Fired straight up.

    After running for 10 or so minutes I noticed a pool of oil around the size of a 50c piece under the car, I shut the car off and tracked the oil leak back to my oil feed banjo bolt. I then tried to tighten the bolt and felt it start to strip so I didn’t turn any further.

    What would be my next course of action, the thread is not totally stripped so I was thinking pulling it out, cleaning it up as well as I can & using some thread tape to try and hold it in.

    Or should i just try and fix the thread, anyone got some advice for me?

    Engine is a RNN14 GTiR SR20DET (alloy block)

    Thanks in advance!.

  2. #2
    Brobdingnagian Member Passion-Fingers's Avatar
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    It's definatly not the bolt head about to shear off? because that would've been my first guess.
    But then again I havn't worked on too many alloy bock cars...
    '06 Mitsu Pajero DiD - Daily and Boat tow rig
    HQ SS - rollin' on 14's

  3. #3
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    na its a thick steel bolt, The block thread was a little dodgy to start with so I’m 100% certain its the thread

  4. #4
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    gasket goo and a soft wrist is ur only hope other than rethreading it
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  5. #5
    Brobdingnagian Member Passion-Fingers's Avatar
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    Or lots of devcon.........
    '06 Mitsu Pajero DiD - Daily and Boat tow rig
    HQ SS - rollin' on 14's

  6. #6
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    Mate get a longer banjo bolt, or thinner sealing rings- always anneal the rings before you reassemble a banjo (if they are copper) - heat to dull red and let them cool slowly to room temp. They really don;t need to be very tight if the seal is soft.

    If you can't get a longer banjo bolt, then you are up for calling Mr Thread repair to sort it out- you can't change the bolt for a bigger one, the original thread must be replaced.

    Sorry

    Muz

  7. #7
    Carby Row Tree luvr edo's Avatar
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    Jon, Panic.

    Umm, I think youre knackered...you might need to crack the cheque book (welcome to my world)

  8. #8
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    I like the Devcon idea lol, nothing that devcon cant fix lol.

    I'll try and find a longer banjo bolt Muz, thats actually an option i hadnt thought of.

    I dont think i'd even attempt to fix the thread myself, i think i'm gunna have to get the "thread man" in to do it (or i'd just make it worse lol).

    the annoying part is i will have to take my complete turbo system off & radiator, no small task.

  9. #9
    2ofdem
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    Quote Originally Posted by edo
    Jon, Panic.

    Umm, I think youre knackered...you might need to crack the cheque book (welcome to my world)
    Good on him for trying though.

  10. #10
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    On SRs i have seen so many of these oil supplys strip, one of the most common things, 2 ways, either go get a earls adaptor to thread into the block and make it a dash fitting to screw a braided line to, the earls threads seen to be better formed then the banjo bolts and look slightly bigger, it was when i measured them.

    Or you can heli coil the block, pretty easy cos you can crank the car, because when you helicoil it you will create some swarf, so you must crank the car to push the filings out, i have done this with sucess.
    I design and sell the following:

    www.iqengineering.com.au
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    Coming Soon:
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  11. #11
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    Cheers playa, what is this earls fitting you talk of?.... have you a part number?.... i've already got a -4 braided line to a -4 end welded onto the banjo fitting so sounds like it could be the best option.

    Or helicoil could be a good option, what is the process to install one?.... will i need a fair bit of room (ie remove turbo, manifold & radiator etc)

  12. #12
    piss taker of the piss Uncle Arthur's Avatar
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    Its going to have to be recoiled with a steel insert, too risky to bodge a repair otherwise. Brisbane Agencies sell Recoil thread repair kits but bloody expensive, Streets also have something similar, don't know the details. Both are near you but DIY thread repairs are tricky, it may be best to get it done professionally.

  13. #13
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    thats the thing im talking about.

    there are mobile helicoil guys, would cost around 80 to get it done by one of them.

    I actually stripped a block, well when i bought it it had a fricken bolt home job drilled to make it into a banjo and it was the wrong thread, it had just stripped to the earls fitting actually held in quite tight.
    Last edited by PLAYA; 10-06-05 at 09:11 PM.
    I design and sell the following:

    www.iqengineering.com.au
    -RB30 into GTR sump adapters
    -Engine mounts - urethane and perfect for all conversions
    -SR20 to RB25 bell housing conversions
    -Can do any 3D design and modelling at competitive rates.

    Coming Soon:
    Holden 5L 4 bolt main caps and full one piece girdle.
    Hydraulic tilt tray trailers, lowest approach angle in the industry, suspension, control it from your Android or Iphone....ETA 2 months

  14. #14
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    Call Threadtech in Brisbane and get them to helicoil for you.We use them all the time at work and they do a great job.

  15. #15
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    A kit will cost more than getting the bloke to do it, and it is probably the only m14 fine thread on the car!

    (Could be m12 fine as well, but iirc 14 is the standard..)

    Getting a banjo to jic converter is a better idea, then you never have to remove the adaptor from the block. That would have saved you from rooting it in the first place. the thread on the adaptors is usually longer to pick up the good threads at the bootom of the bore and COULD save you sorting the thread out. But what happens when it lets go out on the road at night...

    hp in a box sells the adaptor, not sure if it is a stock speedflow part or not.

    Muz

  16. #16
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    yea it is a stock speed flow part, i will get the part number soon, or if you know the thread i could tell you now?
    I design and sell the following:

    www.iqengineering.com.au
    -RB30 into GTR sump adapters
    -Engine mounts - urethane and perfect for all conversions
    -SR20 to RB25 bell housing conversions
    -Can do any 3D design and modelling at competitive rates.

    Coming Soon:
    Holden 5L 4 bolt main caps and full one piece girdle.
    Hydraulic tilt tray trailers, lowest approach angle in the industry, suspension, control it from your Android or Iphone....ETA 2 months

  17. #17
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    Cool, sounds good.... I have no idea what the thread is though might do a search on sr20forum.com.

    Cheers for the contact Gregaust!

    More speedflow hey, and here's me thinking i'd finished


  18. #18
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Jesus Jon!! That's quite the amount of speedflow!! Maybe I should employ you to neaten up the bay if the Fiat!!
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

  19. #19
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    Can't you get a braided throttle cable mate

    And I reckon breather lines with jic swivels and high pressure braided hose is a bit OTT.

    I like it though. I remember falling off the seat when I did a blown 308 for a mate and he wanted everything in speedflow. Made Mark at Motorsport connections smile really hard!

    Muz

    Can't find a good pic- it was in Street Machine a long time ago..

  20. #20
    communist ABC fuck AdrianSSS's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido
    Jesus Jon!! That's quite the amount of speedflow!! Maybe I should employ you to neaten up the bay if the Fiat!!
    Hear hear. Jon, you've seen MY engine bay - is there anything that can be done?

    *fingers crossed*

  21. #21
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    Guido / Rockstock haha no thanks, No more speedflow for installs for me.... oh the pain.

    BigMuz, speedflow is too addictive, although i've been fortunate enough to find a cheap supplier..... oil catch can is a bit OTT, but did not cost all that much in the grand scheme of things

    btw, nice speedflow'd donk you had there, what s/c is that?

  22. #22
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Bit off topic, but what is the flashy braid worth? it might be a fix to a few of my problems
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  23. #23
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    What u after mate?..... i've got all the reciepts here.

    It might be flashy but i value my safety, esp in a 350kw odd fwd 900kg car.... high pressure fuel is now one less safety issue i have to think about..... i've got a long list

    Edit - just actually finished the last of my fuel system today (well the speedflow parts)

    Bosch motorsports pump into -6 (using a speedflow M12X1.5 to -6 connector)




    Back into stock EFI hard lines (using a 1/8" compression fitting to -6)



    So no high pressure fuel flows through any hoseclamps, all JIC screw in fittings

  24. #24
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    It is a 6/71 on a 308. Made 500 hp with stock heads and a baby cam on petrol!

    I machined pulleys for it so it had power steer and alternator running as per standard. Worked pretty good. Fun car to burn the tyres with. that is all it was for really!

    Muz

  25. #25
    Opens tim510's Avatar
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    youve got nothing jon

    speed flow hose is quite cheap, the fittings will kill you

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