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Thread: MA61 Supra - 2JZ-GTE

  1. #1441
    agricultural
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    Norbie I have distant memories of someone on toymods with a blue/grey two tone ma61 who had a Decepticon logo drawn in the dust on the door and it scratched permanently. Have to be around 2000? That incident cemented in my mind never too let anyone draw on my dusty cars. Was that yours? Did you have a two tone before this?

  2. #1442
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Nah not me, I never owned a two tone. Although this did happen to my black Supra at a PF event back in the day:



    Luckily that car was a shitter and I didn't care.
    Norbie!

  3. #1443
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
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    I had a battery box like that in the back of my cressida, ended up ditching it and buying a proper sealed moroso box. the optima yellow top sits nicely in it and it's vented outside via clear plastic tube to the rear of the car.

    dont take this the wrong way, i think you've over complicated the earths and power. but having said that, if it works then who cares.

  4. #1444
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [RX3] View Post
    I had a battery box like that in the back of my cressida, ended up ditching it and buying a proper sealed moroso box.
    I had a look around for a better unit but couldn't find anything I like. I'm definitely open to re-visiting this in the future but for now I just want a working solution that doesn't suck too hard.

    Quote Originally Posted by [RX3] View Post
    dont take this the wrong way, i think you've over complicated the earths and power.
    Fair point and likely correct! That said my previous setup was much simpler and didn't work as well as I wanted it to. You could say the new plan is a bit of an over-correction, but like you say if it works then happy days.
    Norbie!

  5. #1445
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    This is the only pic I have of it,



    Optima 34D yellow top is inside. Proper weather sealed lid to prevent gas escape too. Nice unit, the bolts were a bit of a pain.

  6. #1446
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Hmm that looks nice, I'll keep that in mind for version 2!
    Norbie!

  7. #1447
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    sounds good. and i don't mean to come across the wrong way. i get most of my ideas and learn the most reading about what other people have done.

    you must be getting close to getting the engine in.

  8. #1448
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by [RX3] View Post
    sounds good. and i don't mean to come across the wrong way. i get most of my ideas and learn the most reading about what other people have done.
    All good, I appreciate constructive criticism and especially new ideas!

    Quote Originally Posted by [RX3] View Post
    you must be getting close to getting the engine in.
    My new intercooler arrived this morning, and that was the main thing delaying the engine install. So hopefully very close!
    Norbie!

  9. #1449
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Intercooler pics:







    Yeah that looks pretty flash!
    Norbie!

  10. #1450
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    I had a quick look at intercooler fitment last night, but first I spent a bit of time covering up the bulk of the intercooler with cardboard and tape, so hopefully I won't scratch it to shit during the testing and installation phase:



    Here it is in the approximate location I want it to be, in an "upside down" position:



    It looks like I have heaps of room to work with but with the bulky headlight brackets in place I'm actually pretty constrained. Unfortunately this intercooler is a bit wider than I was expecting and I'm not sure I can mount it this way unless I chop off the outlets and weld on 90 degree bends like I did with the last one. I'm not particularly keen to do that with a $1000 intercooler, especially when I paid extra for the fancy black finish.

    So I'm looking at plan B, which involves mounting the intercooler the "right way" with the outlets going under the chassis rails, but instead of running the pipes through the inner guards I'll do a 180 under the headlights so they come up and through the radiator panel. I think there is enough room to run the pipes this way as it's just an empty void under the headlights. My only concern is that I have to mount the intercooler lower than I'd like to clear the chassis rails - from eyeballing it the lower edge of the intercooler would be slightly lower than the front lip, and I don't want the intercooler to be the low point at the front of the car. I might be able to get the clearance I need by cutting the underside of the rails a little bit, but more investigation is required there.

    I'm definitely making life difficult for myself here, but I'm determined to get a neat intercooler installation even if it takes all year!
    Norbie!

  11. #1451
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    No point rushing it now dude, it will only piss you off every time you look at it in the future! Patience grasshopper, everything is super neat to date so no doubt you'll do this the same.
    Hide yo' wife!!!

  12. #1452
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    what about this way?

  13. #1453
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    Cardboard shell!! Far out why didn't I think of that. So much fin straightening

  14. #1454
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by japlish View Post
    what about this way?
    If the headlight brackets weren't in the way I'd give it a go!

    Since taking the above photos I found a spare pair of brackets and temporarily fitted them so I can be certain my pipe routing plans will work around them. I'll get some photos later so you can see how constrained I am in there.

    Quote Originally Posted by aerobrick View Post
    Cardboard shell!! Far out why didn't I think of that. So much fin straightening
    Haha yep this was a hard won lesson, several intercoolers have been munted during test fits in this car!
    Norbie!

  15. #1455
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    OK so these photos show how little room I have between the chassis rails and the headlight brackets:





    So basically the "upside down" position will only work if I have the intercooler outlets back as far as possible, and also as low as possible. So pretty much jammed into the corner there. That makes it challenging to get the pipes around the corner to go through the radiator panel, especially since I need a joiner of some sort in there. Trimming the headlight bracket isn't really an option because the motor for the popup mechanism goes in that big hole in the bracket, which means it would barely clear the pipes as it is.

    So... doing it this way might be possible but I'm not very confident any more. If I didn't have popup headlights it would probably be easy, but it is what it is!

    And now for plan B. Intercooler mounted the normal way with the outlets below the chassis rails, large radius 90 degree bend coming up off the intercooler, then a couple of tight radius 90's to get it through the radiator panel:





    As you can see I still need to sneak the pipes through that little gap under the headlight bracket, and I might still need to trim it a little bit, but there's plenty of room everywhere else.

    My only concern with this plan is that I'm forced to mount the intercooler lower than I'd like. With the outlets hard up against the bottom of the chassis rails it ends up like this:



    It's kind of hard to see in that photo but the bottom of the intercooler is slightly lower than the front lip. This is actually slightly better than how I used to have it (my old intercooler had 3" outlets so was forced even lower) but I still don't want it that low. I'm going to have a look at the possibility of trimming the bottom of the chassis rail; I can probably get an extra 15-20mm without affecting the main box section of the rail, and that might be just enough. Fingers crossed!
    Norbie!

  16. #1456
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Oh and my new cable lugs for the big fuckoff battery cable arrived, so I got started on making the shortened cables to suit my new battery location. I don't have any crimping tools for stuff this big so I tried just squishing it in a vice:



    This looks fine but the cable pulled out with only a moderate amount of force. I don't like using solder for stuff like this but it works:



    And now it's all hidden under heatshrink, no-one will ever know!



    I've got to make 3 or 4 more cables and I'm done with the battery stuff I think.
    Last edited by Norbie; 19-04-19 at 10:20 AM.
    Norbie!

  17. #1457
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    These days you would be crucified for making a power cable using a vice and solder .

    Your supposed to use NASA spec connections and make a fucking VLOG about it with 8 million views explaining how thatís the minimum standard to connect to a fuckin 12v battery......

    Anyway I used that orange welding cable years and years ago in my rotor and just multigrips crimped combined with soldering all joints and it was never an issue . The fact u covered it with heat shrink is pretty baller spending in my book


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  18. #1458
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    These days you would be crucified for making a power cable using a vice and solder .

    Your supposed to use NASA spec connections and make a fucking VLOG about it with 8 million views explaining how thatís the minimum standard to connect to a fuckin 12v battery......

    Anyway I used that orange welding cable years and years ago in my rotor and just multigrips crimped combined with soldering all joints and it was never an issue . The fact u covered it with heat shrink is pretty baller spending in my book


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    Crimp and solder for something that size is decent. Have seen vice crimped connection fall out at the track before though. Resulted in a DNF from running a solid 2nd

  19. #1459
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    Cracka will stroke out when he sees that vice crimp!
    Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

    Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

    75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

  20. #1460
    GTFO of my ED doctor ed's Avatar
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    not the answer you want, but cut n shut the intercooler to the right size
    Mit freundlichen GrŁŖe

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  21. #1461
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    Is there protection from abrasion where the battery cable passes through metalwork?

  22. #1462
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Surely sacrificing chassis rail to possibly protect an Intercooled is cutting off the nose to spite the face?

    Measure up core size needed, get Pete to make tanks for it. Sell plasma man cooler.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  23. #1463
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    Make the cooler fit the car, not t'other way 'round.
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

  24. #1464
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    These days you would be crucified for making a power cable using a vice and solder .

    Your supposed to use NASA spec connections and make a fucking VLOG about it with 8 million views explaining how thatís the minimum standard to connect to a fuckin 12v battery......
    Haha yep I've already had people on facebook explain that I'm doing it wrong. I used this same technique when I did the original battery relocation 17-18 years ago and everything is still fine, so that's good enough for me.

    Quote Originally Posted by aerobrick View Post
    Is there protection from abrasion where the battery cable passes through metalwork?
    No but as above it's been routed this way for 17-18 years and the cables are still fine, so I reckon it's OK! There are no sharp edges or anything.

    As for the intercooler, it's already a bit on the small side IMO so I'm not super keen on making it smaller. I'll consider that a last resort, but I have a new plan in mind which I think is going to work out pretty well. Hopefully I'll be getting started on that tomorrow.

    One small update before then, I did the last battery cable for the +ve side:





    The cables for the -ve side are just about ready to go but I realised I didn't have any black heatshrink large enough for this cable - so that's on hold until I can get some.
    Norbie!

  25. #1465
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Norbie View Post



    No but as above it's been routed this way for 17-18 years and the cables are still fine, so I reckon it's OK! There are no sharp edges or anything.
    Just get some split loom and put it over where it goes through, secure with electrical tape. The outcome of having it short out is far greater than the quick and simple abrasion protection.
    Last edited by takai; 21-04-19 at 12:19 PM.

  26. #1466
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    No one wants to accidentally DIY an electric car

  27. #1467
    bitch lasagne Bob Vegana.'s Avatar
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    I would...
    Quote Originally Posted by brewdles View Post
    In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

  28. #1468
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    I dug a hole:





    If all goes to plan this will be the only choppy-weldy part of the process. I spent a long time checking and triple-checking everything to make sure I was doing this in the exact right place and would have clearance for everything in the area. I'm reasonably confident I got it right, and I should only have to slightly trim the bottom corner of the headlight bracket to get the pipe past. Hopefully I'll get all that done later this week.

    I wound up using a hole saw located by a block of wood screwed to the other side of the panel. The results were surprisingly good, and a 2.5" pipe neatly slides through with nearly no gap so it should be fairly easy to weld in. I hope!
    Norbie!

  29. #1469
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    how is this thing meant to float now?? tsk tsk

  30. #1470
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Today I made up a squiggly bit of pipe to go through the radiator panel. It's only tack welded together for now but this is basically how it's going to look. Here I'm checking there's enough clearance to get the v-band clamp on with the radiator in place (the pipe is tilted a bit so there's enough room):



    And on the other side, it's resting on top of the bumper bracket which leaves barely 1-2mm clearance for the headlight motor crank at the top of this photo:



    So it's pretty tight in there but it definitely fits! Here's another look with the headlight up out of the way:



    I need to weld on a short length of straight pipe there with a bead on the end so I can clamp on a silicone joiner, and from there I'll have a 180 degree pipe going down under the chassis rail to the intercooler inlet.

    Not a lot of butchery was required to get this far, although I did have to hack off the bottom corner of the headlight bracket to get a few extra mm of clearance:



    Overall my plan seems to be working out so far. I just need to finish welding the bits of pipe together properly, confirm it's in a position where it's not fouling anything, then weld it to the radiator panel. Hopefully I can get that done on the weekend - and then, it's time to put the engine in finally!!
    Norbie!

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