HZ 1Ton Cab Chassis (TT1uzfe)

[Amalgamator]

My Baby
Specs are.
1uzfe Twin turbo using Nissan Skyline R34 GTT Turbos with 3inch mandrel bent dumps and separate waste gate pipes
Custom (by me) steam pipe turbo headers
Supra 7mgte 440cc injectors
Modified fuel rail (dual inlet, dual outlet)
SX fuel pressure regulator
SX Hi Flow filter
Bosh motor sport 044 EFI fuel pump with Holley Blue lift pump
Motorsport surge tank.
Ported heads with reshaped combustion chambers, heads have been cc’d and blue printed on re-assembly
3 angle valve grind
2mm Copper head gaskets
8.9:1 Cr
Port matched intake manifold
Ported, modified, relocated Throttle Body
Direct fire waste spark multi coil CDI Ignition System.
Honda CBR600 f4i CDI coil on plugs.
M&W Pro14 CDI box.
Wolf 3D version 4 engine management
Distributers deleted.
600x300x75 tube and fin front mount cooler.
Trust type R plumb back Anti Fknwoosh bov.
Ducted Trust Grex oil cooler with billet remote filter.
Mocal oil thermostat.
Everything Speedflow.
CRS engine mounts, sump, bell-housing, flywheel.
Jim Berry modified GT4 pressure plate, with 3500lb clamp, 5 puck carbonic sprung hub disk.
Rack and pinion steering conversion using a modified UC Torana manual rack.
Custom steering arms.
CRS 50mm drop stubs with commodore caliper mounts and VT Billet hubs.
Rebuilt, strengthened and blue printed R154 with an aftermarket intermediate bearing carrier and new cryo treated 1st gear thrust washer, all new bearings and sincro's.
Front brakes, 330mm X 32mm slotted DBA 40000 series front rotors with Porsche 996 GT3 Brembo monoblock 4 differential piston callipers, on billet steel hubs with custom 6061 T6 caliper adapters.
Rear, 330 X 28mm slotted DBA 40000 series rotors with Porsche 996 GT3 Brembo monoblock 4 differerential piston callipers, custom calliper adapters.
Wilwood adjustable brake bias valve.
About to start the on the rear end. (help needed)
Poly bushed adjustable four link rear with birdcages and coil over shocks, fitted with a 31 spline Nine inch diff 3.9:1 lsd disc brake with Ford SVO Nodular Iron carrier, billet hat, Mark Williams 31 spline billet axles, daytona pinion support etc,etc.

And all sorts of other bits and pieces

[Jay_G]

Nice list of stuff there,

have you had a chance to get it on a dyno yet? power figures?

[2ofdem]

Some coin been spent there looks good mate.

[Amalgamator]

Thanks guys.
Gee you blokes are quick, just started uploading pics at this ungodly hour and already replies.
Cheers,
Trev.

[Amalgamator]

No nothin yet, just embarking on the rear end at the moment.
(ponders and looks, what the fuck am I going to do here)
Hasn't really cost that much (shhhhhh the wifes near by) just a lot of time really.
I've done it all myself, and I mean "All", as I couldn't afford to have people work on it (well sort of)and quite frankly I enjoy making stuff.
Builder by Trade and car nut for life.

[psi999]

One word - Sensational.

Well done mate, the workmanship is fantastic.

When you've finished with the setup i'll slot into my lexus, stock 1uzfe's are less than exciting in the cars they come in

[TJ]

One word - Sensational.

Well done mate, the workmanship is fantastic.

Quoted because theres nothing that I can say that will surpass those simple yet correct words.

[Captain Fuckhead]

fwor, i can't wait to see

a> dyno figures
b> pics of skids

[Zac]

very cool

[Roadsailing]

very nice work on the exhaust manifolding

[dirtyrex]

Awesome - can't wait to see the finished product.

[bigmuz]

Hasn't really cost that much

Yeah right

Looks nice man. Crossmember mods are mint. Mine won't be a patch on that!

Did you have to slice the front crossmember to get the engine forward far enough, or was it for height? I am putting a 1jz into a HJ ute, and it gets tight around the sump, but fits no worries. Didn't have to cut the sump or the crossmember.

The gearbox crossmember looks exactly like what I will need to do with mine- you didn't make a spare did you

[JZK25]

Fantastic work on this car, very very impressive. I was going to ask if you were a boilermaker or machinist, but you're a builder, fark. Let someone else build the houses, we need you modding cars.

Muz, gearbox x member modding was teh suck for the toyota auto. While it is very compact, the shape of it is so different from any GM stuff that the x member required an absolute raping. 30 year old tonner x members aren't usually real straight to begin with either.

[bigmuz]

Are you gonna need another support for the LONG input shaft into the rack?

I know about the trans x member Al, I've got one that needs doing, but I don't need to molest it as much as this one for the 1j and auto.

[bigmuz]

I won't be able to space my trans mount ANYTHING like that far up. Mine will sit about the same height as the factory mount to be honest. Maybe the 1 tonner floor is a bit roomier, or maybe you get the engine further forward than I can..

[JZK25]

It might be an auto manual thing Muz. I had to section and drop the centre of the x member at least 100mm to mount the auto. That was using a holden box mount with adaptor no the toyota mount.

[bigmuz]

What car was that for mate? 1uz or 1jz?

[JZK25]

The 1UZ tonner I did for my mate.

http://www.performanceforums.com/for...ght=1uz+tonner

[Bob Saget]

[Supashake]

Good to see.We have one almost finished now in a one tonner but with Powerglide and monster single Turbo.Will post pics soon if it ends up as nice as your car.

[ALLMTR]

Absolutely awesome work!!!!

[Amalgamator]

Cheers guys.
Muzz, The only mods to the front crossmember are where the steering shaft comes through. Custom sump alleviated the clearence issues, but still bloody tight down there.
Engine sits as low and as far back as possible without mods to the fire wall.
CRS did a pretty good job of the mounts in that regard.
The adapter just bolts to the block holes and use HT-HG V8 mounts which are a bolt on affair with the HQ Chassis.
The long steering shaft seems okay, doesn't move with a full lock to lock turn with full weight and no forward or rearward motion of the vehicle but I know where you are coming from Muzz and it is something I will keep an eye on.
I dumpied the chassis and made up a jig which I used to map the front end geometry using a series of cheap chinese laser pointers mounted on the front hubs. This gave me good base lines from which to work from when setting up the rack and the ability to track changes in geometry from the hub mods etc.
Bought the wife a new digital camera for Chrissy so I'll try to get my finger out and post up a few more up to date pics.
Cheers
Trev

[arcane]

Great fabrication work! Looks great - definately sounds like you've done things properly.

Quick question for you: What external oil thermostat did you end up using?

[Amalgamator]

Great fabrication work! Looks great - definately sounds like you've done things properly.

Quick question for you: What external oil thermostat did you end up using?

Mocal

[Amalgamator]

Few more pics showing how I did the cooler.
I completely sealed the front area where it sits in with aluminium sheet to increase efficiency as I have lost a bit of airflow to the radiator.

[ALLMTR]

OK I now have a new favourite in the Rides section!

[Shitbreak]

Turbos are used to 2.5ltr coming 6 way, going down to 2lt coming 4 way, I'm wondering how much lag/low tractability you'll have?

But certainly a shmick car. More pics please.

[Amalgamator]

Thanks Allmtr
Datzed, Not a laggy combo at all, If anything the turbos are a tad on the small size, better manifolding, exhaust outlets, seperate wastegate pipes, etc and head porting will sort out the 500cc short fall per bank from OEM application.
Okay, more pics, no worries.

And before anyone says anything, Yes that is a structural grade of pine.

Below is a shot of the rear vented cover for the oil cooler, which is mounted in the lower front of the PS guard and fed air from the large bumper bar bracket hole.
It is once again a sealed box, only way out for air is through the core.


The cover you can see in the pics sits 25mm off the core and has downward facing vents pressed into it.
It is also completely open at the bottom.
All to try and stop shit flicking off the tyre from blocking the cooler core, without restricting airflow.
Cheers

[Amalgamator]

Shot of the interior.
Keeping it pretty basic as its going to be a daily driver.

Below is a pic of an aluminium panel that I made up to hold all of the extra circuits, fuses and relays to run everything.
It reduces the glovebox depth by about 70mm and is removed with 4 philips head screws.
It has its own loom and connecters and can be quickly and easily completely removed to add in other circuits etc.

[bigmuz]

Looks great, dunno if you needed to worry about the ducting under the intercooler- they flow enough air under the front bar I reckon. Is that an ebay intercooler?

The louvred panel in front of the wheel looks way too good- you're making the rest of us look bad man

Why did you need to space the wheels out like that?