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Thread: swaybar links

  1. #1
    The Turd
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    swaybar links

    The whiteline rear swaybar for the u13 is dodgy in a sense - if on the stiffer setting, with enough suspension travel the link (normally "hanging" down) and swaybar itself will straighten out and sometimes return in the opposite direction, if you get what I mean (MS paint drawings can be arranged).

    So I need longer swaybar mounts to prevent this.

    They're just a rod with a little ball joint, with the bolts from the ball joints in opposite directions, currently about 3" long so around 5" sounds good........is this how most cars swaybar links are normally setup? Am I likely to have much luck at a wrecker? I've heard some older cars used to have chains instead of a solid link..........that for real?

  2. #2
    Half Shafted. Madhatr's Avatar
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    If they travel in the opposite direction when on the stiffer setting, im willing to bet they are already preloaded, which is usually compounded further by having a vehicle lowered. Adjustible swaybar links would take care of it if you didnt mind paying money for them, otherwise moving the mount position would also have the same effect. How does the link mount to the front suspension? on the side of the strut?
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  3. #3
    The Turd
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    It's rear, not fronts (i'm assuming you thought they were fronts) - the fronts mount to lower control arm.

    The rears, the troubling ones, have a link coming off the hub (awd u13).

    The swaybar isn't preloaded though, to fix I jacked each side up to get at and unbolt (couldn't reach up due to going opposite on me), when back on the ground I could hook up correctly without much trouble (i.e. no load on the bar when sitting flat). But the car is running lower springs, hence as you say making it more likely to cause problems (ironically, using whiteline springs).

    Adjustable links hey? So long as the price seems reasonable that could be a good idea, any idea where from? Should be quite universal, just gotta measure the bolt sizes and make sure the range of adjustability will suffice. It will be worthwhile to me, that extra bit of flatness in corners without jittery suspension is something i like in a daily.
    Last edited by phreeky; 09-07-07 at 02:12 PM.

  4. #4
    piss taker of the piss Uncle Arthur's Avatar
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    You can make your own adjustable links, good enough to try out anyway. Use threaded rod from a hardware, cut to length, thread onto suitable rod ends, make up brackets to attach.

  5. #5
    The Turd
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    Where can I purchase appropriate little ball joints?

    I'd be tempted to cut these stock ones down the middle and put a thread on them and extend 'em actually It would be nice to not have to do that though, in case I fuck up (very very likely).

  6. #6
    piss taker of the piss Uncle Arthur's Avatar
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    Any decent bearing seller will have rod ends.

  7. #7
    Circuit race VLT ?? HSVSUX's Avatar
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    pays to get the 8.8 grade (usually gold passivated) threaded rod btw, the standard stuff is butter.

  8. #8
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    The yellow rod is grade 5, known as SA5, It is a medium tensile rod. There is definitely grade 8.8 or grade 8 available- hobson call theirs Samson rod.

    I can get it no worries but freight might break your heart.

  9. #9
    The Turd
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    Thanks for the advice guys.........I'll probably drive the missus' car tomorrow and take one of the links with me, hopefully can find what I need.

  10. #10
    Registered User Ratwagon's Avatar
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    Try Fulcrum Townsville...pretty sure they can still get a decent quality adjustable link off the shelf.....saw some shiteline ones kicking around for a while but these looked better made?!?! Worth a call....

  11. #11
    weirdo F|sh's Avatar
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    revolution racegear can help you with the rod ends.

    the figure 8's from whiteline are not the best. ALways check the mounting brackets that came with the rear bar to make sure there not failing.
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  12. #12
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    Won't Whiteline have them? They do for the "traditional" style links.

    Otherwise, cut your links in half, cut a thread on each half, and join with a threaded sleeve. Like a tie-rod setup.
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  13. #13
    The Turd
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    Yeah this isn't the newest of threads, but I'm a lazy c*nt and still haven't fixed it. Funnily enough I was actually planning on doing something about it this weekend.

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