Electric Water Pump Options

[takai]

Ok, im probably going to go EWP in the next engine revision, partially so i can keep the pump going when i pull into the pits.

Anyway, that aside, ive noticed a slightly different design, which uses the stock pump, but simply runs it off a seperate motor like so:


Looks like a pretty good little solution (apart from finding a place to put the motor, and running the belt. Mainly because it solves the problem with the normal Davies Craig EWP kits leaking, as it just uses the stock pump.

Anyone else used one of these, and have an informed opinion on it?

[arcane]

Are you wanting this purely to keep the pump running, or also to save power? I can't imagine this being beneficial over a regular pump setup, as you're just adding a second point of loss in the system (i.e. you normally have the mechanical loss, now you're adding in the inefficiency of the motor, too - that has to come from somewhere, which would be through the alternator).

The Davies Craig pumps are at least designed purely to be driven in that fashion. On that note, I was aware of the first few revisions leaking but apparently they're fixed now.

[takai]

Gains in power would be much appreciated, plus stopping the water pump from cavitating as i increase the red line would always be nice. Of course i could always change the pulley ratio for that, but keeping it running in the pits would be great, especially after blowing the headgasket due to being stuck behind a car on pit lane which ran out of fuel.

Good to hear that the DC pumps seem to finally be fixed.
Oh which reminds me, does anyone have a leaking one that they want to offload? I need one for a solar spa heater, but dont want to pay $200 for it.

[JamesB]

I had been looking at doing a home brew design of a similar setup. I figured that a variable speed drive for the pump motor using a single electronic temperature sensor that provided multiple operating points to control both the EWP motor speed and progressive operation of the electric cooling fans, would be a definite improvement over a mechanical pump/thermostat, and a "both on/both off" electric cooling fan setup.

[Bermo]

What engine? 4A?

You can get CSR, Morso, CVR (I think) but they are mainly for real mans engines (Clevo, Chev, Hemi, etc).

Im not too sure if they have them for the smaller engines though.

[tim510]

long story short. my old davies craig '80' model pump was CRAP. it leaks, made alot of noise, and i wasn't convinced it was the way to go.
i replaced it with a 'newer' model and its much better. the car hasn't been hot or under pressure yet, but the early signs are good.

[takai]

Interesting, new DC pumps seem to be ok.
Anyone got an old crappy one they want to donate to the ghetto spa heater rig?

[tim510]

ive got an old one that leaks and is fucked. however i now have a reciept, and complete packaging and the desire to get $250 back

[takai]

Yeah, thats what everyone else has said.
Well i guess ill get the DC EWP and if it screws up ill just use it as a spa pump.

[80DGY]

CSR and CVR are the same company I thikn Bermo

Meziere make some good remote mount options, seem to be a good thing?

[jmac]

before you fit it, make up an apparatus to test the thing, and make sure it can keep pumping with a restrictor orifice that produces as much as 15psi back pressure, possibly more. If it won't don't fuck with it, that's what it takes to get a cooling system to work well (and I'm not talking about the cooling system pressure per se, I'm talking about the additional back pressure the thermostat, even when open, will produce, which helps prevent pump cavitation and improves heat exchange).

this is traditionally where electric pumps fall down quicker than lindsay lohan at summer days.

[John]

takai,

who sells that thing pictured in your first post?

Thanks

John

[tim510]

before you fit it, make up an apparatus to test the thing, and make sure it can keep pumping with a restrictor orifice that produces as much as 15psi back pressure, possibly more. If it won't don't fuck with it, that's what it takes to get a cooling system to work well (and I'm not talking about the cooling system pressure per se, I'm talking about the additional back pressure the thermostat, even when open, will produce, which helps prevent pump cavitation and improves heat exchange).

this is traditionally where electric pumps fall down quicker than lindsay lohan at summer days.

DC suggest removal of the thermostat and the use of their controller for warm up. my experience with the 1st gen controller was that its shithouse.

i however understand the thermostat is used to slow down the flow through the radiator to aid cooling(increased time to exchange heat).

i had no room, EWP was my only option. those meziere ones look sensational! big flow rates, good construction

[Ben Wilson]

I'm not sure what generation controller I've got on the mr2, but so far it's worked perfectly. It warms up quickly and keeps a constant temperature.

[HoonBoy]

Damn you guys, just as I am rewiring the thermofan (amongst other things...) and having issues with radiator hose clearance you starting saying how good the electric pumps are... can't you say they are crap so I don't use one and save myself time and money

[tim510]

I'm not sure what generation controller I've got on the mr2, but so far it's worked perfectly. It warms up quickly and keeps a constant temperature.

the newer one has the digital read out, mine as has pot adjuster on the top of it.

i just run the pump flat out.

[JamesB]

Has anybody used one of the electric water pumps to experiment with reverse flow cooling?

[Billzilla]

Has anybody used one of the electric water pumps to experiment with reverse flow cooling?

I will be with the 4AFE I'm building.
(Just cancelled the order for the conrods, fed up with waiting so I'm going elsewhere)

[RVK 355]

Ive got a Moroso external water pump drive like the one shown in the pic, havent had a chance to test it out,

IMO the only real benifit to running a electric water pump is the fact you can still have the pump and thermo fans running after you have turned off the motor

[takai]

VPW sell the one i pictured.

Ben, you run yours between the themo housing and the bottom tank dont you? But without a thermostat i guess. Any way of doing it with the thermostat still in there?

[Ben Wilson]

Yeah - Mine is in the bottom hose. If you use the controller having a thermostat shouldn't be a huge problem, it shouldn't start until the thermostat is open.

[CT]

My new car runs one as do many of the turbo MX5 racecars around. They work well and the newer controller seems to work well too. It's a good idea to have a dash light so you can make sure it is running - no water pump kills a race motor real quick!