It's a vibrant performance one, brought it of there distributor in SA.
It's a vibrant performance one, brought it of there distributor in SA.
Went out to Calder again yesterday, ran a new PB 8.83 at 155.9mph, was a few hundredths of my best 60ft, prob would have gone 8.7x with a better 60ft. Spent most of the day playing with the boost controller, as I need to be able to get the car on boost during Pre stage so I can start cutting some lights. Had around 7 runs for the day, ran a a pair of 8's of the trailer, then spent the next few runs playing with e boost and got another 8 sec pass, the last pass would have been mint if the track could have held it as I had a good looking boost curve in it deon the track, but it did not even hold 5psi off the line. It had been taking 6.5psi off the line earlier in the day.
looks like your car is becoming a fav of the fullboost brothers.
This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...
PF GT5 whore car list https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CPKNmOIJ
mad vid.. love this car!
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
Thanks guys. Hope it has a bit more in it yet. Now I have sorted the boost control out, it's time to work out how to stage it so it can win races.
I found some interesting stuff when coating some of the runs from a week ago. For as Lon as I have had it going if come into full stage at idle, then activate the transbrake and mash the throttle to the floor, then as the boost needle swings past 5psi I let of the transbrake and take off down the track. Doing it this way was no way to win raves or be consistent, I was leaving the line at around 3500-3750rpm and 5-6 psi of boost.
After a few runs the last weekend I changed the Wastegate spring and put the Motec back into open loop so I could reset up the boost control, the new gate spring allowed me to make 6.5psi on the brake and sit there for as long as I want, but I found that once the boost stabilized at 6.5psi I had 4500rpm on board. The weird thing is I normally cannot launch with anymore than 6psi, even 6.5 would normally blow the tyres off, but last weekend it hooked up fine after spending over 1.5 seconds at 6.5psi of boost on the brake and run close to PB numbers even with less boost going down the track compared to my normal figures. I'm a little unsure what is going on, on thought is the extra rpm it had by stabilizing the boost allowed it to hit the tyres harder and transfer the weight better?
Fast, reliable and consistent.
Originally Posted by AndyMac
maybe its heating up more while on the brake, giving it less punch as it takes off= a softer launch? just a guess.
car looks mad btw, reminds me of dad's old 202 5sp in the same colour.
Last edited by da9jeff; 07-05-12 at 06:21 PM.
Tow car/daily: 2011 D40 Navara ST 6sp diesel.
75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah
In the build: U2L IPRA Honda Integra
Distraction from the above: KE20 13B
im going to start playing with this stuff on the race car,..
a switch on the brake pedel to activate a rev limiter at about 3000rpm to build a little boost before going into pre stage, once in pre stage flatten the throttle then bump it into full stage, then hit the trans brake which activates another limiter at say 3500rpm, then control the boost at the level you want ...
thats the way im going to approach it next time out...
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
I'm going to stick the extra two limiters on it for sure, just hope the back brakes will hold a pound or two of boost.
what about a transbrake creeper, are they expensive or do they damage your box?
THIS http://www.fuelairspark.com/Products.../Chapter30.htm
Last edited by hrt5l; 09-05-12 at 06:38 PM.
Hr under construction
Not real sure if I want to punish the glide with a transbrake creap.
Going to see if I have room for dual factory calipers.
Do I buy new slicks or make the move to 275/60 drag radials?
275 ftw
come to x275
the transbrake creep doesn't punish the box, i have spoke to a few guys in the states and some gearbox builders, they hadn't seen any noticeable damage. i got my transbrake creep the other day, for use with the Motec.
Hey mate, who is the distributor in SA that sells that flex joint?
Breaking stuff once is ignorance, twice is stupidity, three times is racing
http://www.performanceforums.com/for...chev-LS1-turbo
I think it was garage7.com.au it's a vibrant performance part.
Been a big few weeks on the VK preparing for a big summer of racing, it all started with a new AMS-1000 boost controller with CO2, then I brought a pair of new front rims.
This then showed the real condition of the front brake rotors, so I ordered some wilwood brakes for the front, then some new rear brakes. So I thought if I had to change axle ends to allow the wilwood brakes to be a simple bolt on again on the rear I decided to order some new deeper dish rims, new diff housing and some 35 spline axles.
When finishing the install of the boost controller I had to pull the air cleaner of the GTX turbo and found a chunk missing from the comp wheel and a couple of damaged blades.
Garrett wouldn't supply a new wheel, I had to buy a new core, so I had a good deal offered for a new S400, 80mm with a larger 87mm turbine wheel. Has a race cover, forged machined wheel, etc etc, supposedly a good thing and should free up a few more hp.
After the new turbo was delivered I then got word on a new wheel for the GTX4202, so it will be repaired now and is up for sale.
Hoping to find 50hp with the new turbo and a minimum of 50lbs of weight with the new wheels and brakes.
I just finished designing full one piece billet girdle/main caps, going on a methanol 355, do u have many issues with front and rear caps?
Haven't had a look for a while, hoping the steel front and rear caps are coping better than the old cast caps. Even when the old caps walked, the bearings
Still looked fine.
That turbo looks real nice!! Can't wait to hear how it performs compared to the GTX.
Breaking stuff once is ignorance, twice is stupidity, three times is racing
http://www.performanceforums.com/for...chev-LS1-turbo
definitely go the 275 radial.
i had a quick look thru, but couldn't find. is this mini-tubbed or just lower arms modified and inner guards taken back to the rails? curious as i'm about to embark on a vh project and just want to run a 255/60/15 (27") or max 275/60/15 (28"), with similar diff set-up (BW, spool and 31 spline MW axles). also will be using a glide.
Might as well build a 9" dogsballs, will cost the same / more
ProVK, that turbo is what they call an s480
Whats that sender/pluggy thing on the wastegate? - for the new boost control?
This is a post i wrote by mistake, which is nice...
PF GT5 whore car list https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?...thkey=CPKNmOIJ
This thing just keeps getting better. What are you doing to keep the heads on? L19 head studs or 1/2 inch studs?
Hr under construction
It's a map sensor for the c02 pressure on the Wastegate. Still using 7/16 arp studs, using a modified vn group a set that has the shanked down short studs so they stretch the same as the long studs.
Are these studs available off the shelf, care to share a part number? It must be working, cometic head gaskets or copper?
Hr under construction
I'll dig the number up, I found the std old 7/16 studs I used to run seems to lift the head a little on the short stud side and the long studs where a little short. The kit I run now has longer studs all round, the short ones are nearly too long, but they work, had to cut the excess off when I ran factory manifolds for one meeting, they worked fine when excessively long with my fabricated manifolds.
Running permaseal mlsr gaskets at the moment, used to run coppers with no issues either. Its all in the tune I think, keep the timing out of it and don't stress about the Dyno figures, mine makes peak power just above 5k and doesn't show anywhere near the power the mph shows.
Yeah i noticed the long studs are too short on mine aswell. Its weird you were lifting the heads on the short side, normally the long studs are what gives out first. I priced the permaseal gaskets and they were expensive so i went comitec cause the price was way cheaper and they have a good rep. What brand converter are you running, mine is a tce and it feels way to loose for my liking.
Hr under construction
I run a TCE also, around 3500rpm off boost and just over 5k when on boost, it's been tweaked a few times over the years as the more power I make I have had to tighten the converter. Toying with the idea of tightening it some more to try and drop a coupe of hundred rpm thru the traps, just going to wait and see how the new brakes and three step go for building boost before I get on the transbrake before I tighten it up.
I am keen to see the results with the new turbo!! I made an impulse decision and moved up on my Borgwarner turbo. I also have a custom cam coming from LilJohn which I am amped to try!!
Breaking stuff once is ignorance, twice is stupidity, three times is racing
http://www.performanceforums.com/for...chev-LS1-turbo
Calder was rained out last night so planning on heading to heathcote next sat to dial in the boost controller and test the new turbo out.
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