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Thread: Modifying a car trailer.

  1. #1
    Owns a bucket no13b_Coupe's Avatar
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    Modifying a car trailer.

    Dear PF.

    Ages back my old man and I bought a car trailer that seemed like a good buy.

    The things done us a solid for years but I am wanting to know the ins and outs of modifying it.

    If you look here we got the SS just on it. Took a while with flatish tyres to load it but got there.
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    The long and short of it is it sits too high and I want to fuck off the sides of it. (The sides are a shit and the mudguards aren't much better.)

    I figure if I was to lop the sides off and somehow lower it (and the mudguards) I shouldn't have much problem loading the Commodore or my Gemini's on and off.
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    I'm over hauling my fat ass out the window...

    With all that said. I'm after advice on whether or not I need to have the trailer re-engineered or anything signed off on for these mods and if they're legal?

    We did consider just buying a new one but I don't think this would sell in a hurry and can't be bothered with flogs on the internet buy it.

    (i got like 3 trailers in storage at my parents place so I think I've pushed my quota of storing things out there a bit far and beyond lol)

    Appreciate input.

    Cheers!
    J
    BF XR6 Turbo - 2L Turbo TE - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS

    - PSN: rotacoupe

    This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

  2. #2
    Problem? sssgtr's Avatar
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    You only need to have it re-inspected if you're changing the load capacity, I.e. 2000kg to 2500kg.

  3. #3
    Grumpy cunt ChrisS's Avatar
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    First thing you would want to check on is if the sides act as structural support for the floor of the trailer and if so, what you will need to do to strengthen it back up again.

    In regards to lowering it, you need to work out how much travel is in the axles when at max load before it will bottom out.
    If you rig up some sort of slid gauge and stick it to both axles and take it for a drive fully loaded it should give you an idea who how much you have to play with.

    Looks like you need a new jocky wheel also.

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  4. #4
    Registered User womblesti's Avatar
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    Might be easier/cheaper to sell it and buy/make what you want.

  5. #5
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    -Raising the suspension will allow you to lower the mudguard height but itll lift the load platform higher and as a result fuck your loading angles even more
    -Lowering the suspension will fix your loading angle issue but will increase your mudguard height to maintain clearance to top of tyre
    -Longer ramps will allow you to reduce ramp angle and help with relation to loading
    -To lower mudguards without fucking with suspension, reduce suspension travel via means of bump stop?

  6. #6
    Owns a bucket no13b_Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssgtr View Post
    You only need to have it re-inspected if you're changing the load capacity, I.e. 2000kg to 2500kg.
    Yep cool wont be changing it for this.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
    First thing you would want to check on is if the sides act as structural support for the floor of the trailer and if so, what you will need to do to strengthen it back up again.
    I had a look over it on the weekend. It doesn't look like they are. They're tacked on every so often but the structural bit underneath it all can be separated.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
    In regards to lowering it, you need to work out how much travel is in the axles when at max load before it will bottom out.
    If you rig up some sort of slid gauge and stick it to both axles and take it for a drive fully loaded it should give you an idea who how much you have to play with.
    Yeah ok. That might take some playing around.

    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
    Looks like you need a new jocky wheel also.
    Some "mate" of mine said he would weld the new one that's been sitting in the shed for years.

    Quote Originally Posted by womblesti View Post
    Might be easier/cheaper to sell it and buy/make what you want.
    Yeah.. Dad said the same.
    It'll need a bit to get it to a point its sellable. I needs a new set of lights on the side where he crashed it into a pillar thing and bent the hand rail. The rest is ok.
    If I can't mod this to the point I want I'll just fix that wack a coat of cheap paint on it and do that.
    BF XR6 Turbo - 2L Turbo TE - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS

    - PSN: rotacoupe

    This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

  7. #7
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Clean it up and sell it, go to Elf trailers in Campbelltown, sit down with him and three weeks later you have exactly what you want.

    A mate and I spent the last month and a half making a trailer exactly what I wanted. We changed out the drawbar, banana backed and extended it. Still need to make ramps and Iíll play with itís final loaded height with tyre size. I also need to trim the rear and a few other things

    No way worth the effort...
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    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  8. #8
    Owns a bucket no13b_Coupe's Avatar
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    Yeah ok

    Appreciate the input guys.
    BF XR6 Turbo - 2L Turbo TE - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS

    - PSN: rotacoupe

    This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

  9. #9
    Grumpy cunt ChrisS's Avatar
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    With the guards, you could cut them off and attach them to the axles.
    This way you can mount them nice and close to the tires.

    EDIT: Change the guards to the single wheel plastic type like used on boat trailers.


    Like I've always said, bring it (or anything else) around and I'll weld what you want.
    My welder doesn't leave my shed!
    Last edited by ChrisS; 21-05-19 at 04:46 PM.

    / --------------- \
    _/ /___________\ \_
    /_________|_________\
    |OOO ___________ OOO|
    \______|====|______/
    [_]-------------------[_]


  10. #10
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    If your state is anything like SA there is no real inspection. The inspection here is just for chassis number. They don't actually look at how well or suitable it is. I built a few hydraulic trailers and I was a registered trailer guy so I could get vin numbers issued to me in my business name rather than a random number.
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  11. #11
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Yeah according to the blue slip guy, the safety of the construction rests with the builder. Even owner built ones are just checked for lights and Vin issued.
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  12. #12
    Owns a bucket no13b_Coupe's Avatar
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    When i got it registered they checked the brakes to
    BF XR6 Turbo - 2L Turbo TE - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS

    - PSN: rotacoupe

    This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

  13. #13
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Does your current trailer have load sharing springs?
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  14. #14
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no13b_Coupe View Post
    When i got it registered they checked the brakes to
    I think this is more of them doing a service rather than what is required. It is just in place to stop rebirthing.
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  15. #15
    Registered User jezza323's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChrisS View Post
    With the guards, you could cut them off and attach them to the axles.
    This way you can mount them nice and close to the tires.
    i like this idea for lowering guards
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  16. #16
    Registered User ajs991's Avatar
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    Just back it up to the footpath. Pry up some bricks for extra angles. Easy load every time

  17. #17
    Owns a bucket no13b_Coupe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Does your current trailer have load sharing springs?
    I don't really know. How do I tell? Sorry if that sounds retarded.

    Quote Originally Posted by ajs991 View Post
    Just back it up to the footpath. Pry up some bricks for extra angles. Easy load every time
    hahaha. Still need to climb through teh fucking window. We aren't 21 anymore
    BF XR6 Turbo - 2L Turbo TE - 75 TX Coupe - Atlas SS

    - PSN: rotacoupe

    This is obviously assuming all your AUX outputs are doing something. Ie idle control, and the other does water spray, and the other updates your Instagram automatically etc.

  18. #18
    anyone? MRMOPARMAN's Avatar
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    Theres a thousand different ways you could go about making it better. It all depends on how much work you can do on the trailer, how much your willing to spend etc.

    As chris said, some trailers use the sides to support the frame. But there is nothing stopping you from running some smaller bracing underneath the frame instead of above, and maybe even presetting the frame to help.

    You could run smaller wheels to drop it down some more. Maybe notch the rear of the chassis then brace to make it a banana back, run fold down mud guards, or change the suspension to airbagged timbren etc etc..

    Sadly, i think chuck is right. By the time you got serious changing stuff around, you could have sold your trailer, add the miney you would have spent modifying it, and you wouldnt be too far off the price of a shiny new trailer.
    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno
    70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
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    Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

  19. #19
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    When I found I needed to lower my trailer I got some U bolts made, added 3" lowering blocks and also went to 13" wheels with the Nankang LT tyres. Managed to lower it by about 120mm all up. Expensive part was the tyres, about $130 each.
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  20. #20
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by no13b_Coupe View Post
    I don't really know. How do I tell? Sorry if that sounds retarded.


    Back eyelet of the front spring is on a see saw arrangement with the front eyelet of the back spring
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  21. #21
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    If you go the smaller rolling diameter route to try and lower the height of the load area, keep in mind your approach/departure angles will take a hit too

  22. #22
    Chairbourn ranger! Mike Lowrrryyy's Avatar
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    Iím thinking about selling mine soonish. Fits the bill. Banana back can load low cars easy. Has side rails but you can open a door over them and the wheel arch. Under floor tool box and winch.
    Quote Originally Posted by S View Post
    I just want to apologise for some of my shit talking back around page 5.

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Back eyelet of the front spring is on a see saw arrangement with the front eyelet of the back spring
    Roller Rocker Suspension
    https://www.alko.com.au/vehicle-tech...oller-springs/

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