So I'm replacing the timing belt on our shopping trolley (1.5 SOHC Lanos). The new belt is on, the tensioner points exactly where it should, but having never done a timing belt before, I'm surprised at how little tension there is on the belt. It's maybe half what you'd set a fan belt to. I guess that sounds right because it's a toothed belt?
is it a hydraulic tensioner?
can you twist the belt through 90 degrees and no more on the longest unsupported run?
"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."
tim510: looks to me just like a spring loaded pulley.
Gammaboy: you mean rotating parallel to the run of the belt? 90 degrees is about as much as I can do with the strength of just my fingers.
Yep - belt tension is spot on.Originally Posted by goose
"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."
Excellent, thanks Gammaboy.
After a couple of rotations of the crank, it seems the tensioner indicator isn't spot on now.
Supposedly I now need to rotate the water pump to increase the tension a bit but I can't move the thing. Apparently I'm supposed to be using some special tool for it. Might have to just stay the way it is. There's probably about 20% of the total movement of the tensioner already used. Don't suppose that's a big problem?
sounds like the daewoo/astra engines, if so,
fuck moving the water pump (has three bolts you need to crack) it doesn't achieve anything.
just tension it so that when the belt is in tension the pointer is facing at the correct mark.
they are a weird setup those engines but that's how i do it, never had a drama, touch wood!
i used to move the water pump at great risk of causing water leak, then looked and realised it achieved little if anything.
just get it so when on tension/turning the crank clockwise the needle is at the correct mark, not over tight/moving past the pointer.
you will find when you let the tension off the pointer will spring back away.
meh...
It is a daewoo engine, RB30, but not sure what you mean.
I can't see any way to get the tension pointer in the right spot without rotating the water pump. I cracked the three bolts, but couldn't move the thing anyway.
Rotating the crankshaft, the pointer doesn't move around, it's just a bit off what it should be.
you put an allen key in the steel centre piece in the front of the tensionser pulley and twist it to get the needle at the correct arrow then lock the main centre tensioner bolt off. from memory twisting the tensioner clockwise will tension the belt and move the arrow towards the mark you need it too.
maybe your engine is different, but thats how most daewoo/holden engines have worked that i have replaced belts on.
Last edited by RB30-POWER; 10-09-10 at 06:25 PM.
Well this is what it looks like.
I've got the tensioner pointer a bit below the bottom marker. With no belt, the pointer points a bit off straight down. I think the old belt had hit the full travel of the tensioner.
Sounds like you're saying that the eccentric centre of the pulley can be rotated? Makes sense, but interesting that the manual doesn't say anything about it.
they are a cunt of a setup
HTH
Suzuki Swift Lover
Agreed, and that doesn't help, dave
I have to remove the power steering pump to remove the timing belt. And in order to remove the power steering pump, I have to remove the engine mount... (although I got around that by just undoing it all and feeding the belt in behind it).
yeah it will be clear if the centre of the pulley has the eccentric type centre with the allen key hole to twist it. (i reckon you would have seen it already if it was there)
if it hasn't maybe that engine is different to the ones i'm familiar with and you will have to follow the procedure you have and twist the water pump.
(the water pump on the engines i'm thinking of have around 3 allen/torx bolts and a largish washer under them to stop the pump from pulling out of the hole, if you get what i mean, bit of a bitch to get it to rotate, i think if you pull it outwards first to break the seal, then twist and retorque the bolts up)
The workshop tool that is specified to turn the waterpump (which does actually create a fairbit of tension) is a stupid shaped 3mm~ bit of steel that slides behind the waterpump pulley and onto the snout. You might be able to get a shifter in there or something, but I doubt you've got the clearance. Maybe some pliers/multigrips?
GEN-ini - Project Skidshitter
MY06 RColt
You're thinking of the later model f18(?) ecotech motors RB30.
GEN-ini - Project Skidshitter
MY06 RColt
I didn't see a way to rotate the eccentric centre of the pulley, but then I wasn't looking that hard. The water pump setup is as you describe.
KanaL - yep, and they are available on ebay for $20 or so. I can get my multigrips on to it from underneath but just can't move it.
I reckon I'll just leave it alone. I guess the only risk is that the tensioner will run out of travel, maybe I'll just check it every 20k kms or so. Also sounds like these water pumps can give trouble if you disturb them.
yeah now that i think about it they are all dohc i'm thinking of, whilst op's is sohc, must be an old girl.
sorry for giving you a bum steer!
Yep - 1998 1.5 SOHC. First of the Lanos I think, although the Cielo and 1.5i used the same or similar engine?
The Lanos had the option of the 1.6 DOHC engine. Nopics bought this car before I met her. That's my defence and I'm sticking with it. She's now a big fan of our VX LS1 and understands the error of her old ways.
Last edited by goose; 10-09-10 at 09:10 PM.
when all is said and done however, if it's still apart i would have a go at turning the water pump if it's the only means of getting that pointer to where it's meant to be.
it does sound a little too loose to me from what you describe, they should be reasonably tight in my experience. (not super tight obviously)
everyones opinion of what tight is different however.
that engine may not be an interferance type anyway, not that you really want to find out.
i say have a go unless you really think it's going to end in tears, sounds like you are planning on keeping the car for a while.
i never said don't line the tensioner arrows up, i was just under the impression there was an alternative way of doing so, but clearly not on this particular engine.
Last edited by RB30-POWER; 10-09-10 at 09:18 PM.
Well that's the thing, I've tried to turn it and it's to the point where I wouldn't want to apply any more force without the proper tool (or a plan to replace the broken water pump).
I don't think getting the pointer lined up will really put any more tension on the belt, just give more headroom as the belt stretches over time.
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