800hp was so 2010, We are in 2011 now so 1000hp is the standard power output for V8 IP cars.
800hp was so 2010, We are in 2011 now so 1000hp is the standard power output for V8 IP cars.
Better make a few checks on the cabin size, Theres some info claiming the roof is to low for IP. Check and if under fill out the application form to make sure you have no problem. Its a NSW guy that found this info out.
We went thu shit with Luigi Decunta over Ashlys S14, we had to go thru the process, A guy from NSW found Monaros are 51mm lower than S14s and made some noise about it. Not Gary C by the way.
Id hate to see you go thru Mr Decuntas shit like we did.
Righto, tip for other Crommie owners.... DO NOT remove your rear hubs if you want to change studs! Spent all day trying to solve a problem i created![]()
Bad idea and now im now going to have to pay for someone to re-seal the whole hub. Did the drivers side without removing the hub and was simple as - hindsight is a wonderful thing
Rear rotors were not 'floating' on the hats (semi rusted in) so removed the hoops and next job is to clean them all up along with the rotors.
Dunno. But i wouldn't bother with the ITP* in IPRA. Pain in the arse to get cold air into them under IPRA rules for no real gain. Also you need endless cheap tuning hours on track to get it sorted 100%
It is way easier/cheaper to get the good 'ol OTR cold air induction and off ya go.
*i like em and they look 'race car' so i'll keep em
Rghto, a bit boring but for those following.... in order to fix the 'removed rear hub mistake i made the other day', i decided just to buy a whole new rear frame. Commwreck and $200 FTW. Only need the passenger trailing arm but on a positive note, at least i have a nice collection of spares building (not that im going to need them)
Also new (used) Ebay $38 engine mounts (the aluminium bits) and new Harrop diff mount (bent the shit out of the previous one). Diff hat and bushes are fine, just mangled the mount in the prang.
Press disc hat straight gently, examine carefully for cracks and turn true.
Probably a bit late now for this. There is a direct fit tapered roller bearing upgrade from the AWD or Crewman that about doubles the rear wheel bearing capacity.
Polishing a couple of thou off the drive flange journals in a lathe so they are a slip in fit with the bearing makes things a lot easier when working on these.
Looks like a SBC flywheel to me....no it will not fit.
Who the fuck buys a Holinger of e-bay anyway ;-)
On a side note I see your using Procomp heads, Have been told to stay clear of them, did you have any troble with them?
procomp states!= procomp aus
Royalpurple OilsOriginally Posted by Carroll Smith
You fucker Choppo.
Been looking for one but didnt bother with e-bay.
One of your pics shows the end of a Procomp head. One photo also shows an Iron block? Must be used just as a dummy fit.
Last edited by TOTAL; 28-04-12 at 07:34 AM.