To elaborate on Nitrane's reply...
Not really within the $1300 budget, no.
A mate of mine bought a BA xr6t 5 speed to adapt to an EL motor retrofitted into an XF (he may be a member here? Shaun?). Anyway lotsa frigging around and lotsa expense.
I've been in EA turbo's with auto's merely shift-kitted and they've held up to a fair amount of abuse.
The T5Z 5 speed in the BA MK1 Turbos is a different box, and alot easier to run than the TR-3650's used in the BA MK1 XR8s.
3650's have integrated bellhousings etc. and would be a complete pain in the ass to modify for a EA.
The only other Aussie car that used these boxes were the T3 TE50 and TS50s which had a 'bolt on' front extension which allowed the direct swap for a T5. But these things are rare and expensive, took me years to find mine and every bastard keeps trying to buy it off me.
'94 ED XR8 Sprint - 347w, 5-speed manual, 3.9s, Bilsteins, 1 Piston PBR's
'02 AUIII TS50 - 342w, 4-speed ESS Auto, 3.45s, Konis, Brembos
'04 BA XT - It runs!
So we managed to get the exhaust system and the intake piping done yesterday.
With the positioning of the turbo and intake pipe a sweed cut was nessasary to close the bonnet.
Here are some pics
thats awesome!
'94 ED XR8 Sprint - 347w, 5-speed manual, 3.9s, Bilsteins, 1 Piston PBR's
'02 AUIII TS50 - 342w, 4-speed ESS Auto, 3.45s, Konis, Brembos
'04 BA XT - It runs!
i can get my hands on a jim mock 3000 stall converter if your interested i mate is seloling due to going to a c4 setup
EL GHIA
GT3582R
WOLF3D
Find out what he wants for it and let me know.
decision will be based on price.
ok txt sent will reply when i hear anything
EL GHIA
GT3582R
WOLF3D
sorry it got sold already .
EL GHIA
GT3582R
WOLF3D
ahh well, looks like ill b looking for sigmas @ the wreckers.
Would be quicker with a 5 speed![]()
'94 ED XR8 Sprint - 347w, 5-speed manual, 3.9s, Bilsteins, 1 Piston PBR's
'02 AUIII TS50 - 342w, 4-speed ESS Auto, 3.45s, Konis, Brembos
'04 BA XT - It runs!
tci do them for $300 for 2800 one there in western syd
EL GHIA
GT3582R
WOLF3D
how much further will a sigma stall take you?
a 2.6l sigma stall will b 2500
a 2.0l sigma stall will b 4000
note that i dont know if this actually works its just somethin ive read on here somewhere
The sigma auto is a BW35 unit and the EA is a bw51 so i hope they swap over...
a single post from 6 years ago on the australian ford forums mentions you can do it just by re-drilling the flex plate holes.
sounds dangerous, you wanna have it balanced properly...
2jzr31, same deal with gemini convertors into traumatics. you put a gem convertor behind a 308 and its like a 2800 stall supposedly lol
Back in the day we used to put small block converters behind big blocks for a bit of cheap hi-stall action.
Dunno if a converter from a BW35 is going to fit a BW51 though. I'd get a second opinion.
Recieved a Sard Rising Rate FPR for the beast today, thanks to fritzz for sending it my way.
Going to VPW on saturday to pick up a propper fitting for the oil feed, thanks to Broomy for the hookup.
Will definately be driving this on the weekend. Hope it dosent blow up. Also hope it actually makes boost at a reasonable RPM.
I was thinking about how i would lineup the convertor to the flexplate if i needed to drill out some new mounting holes.
What if i sat the convertor onto the auto, mounted the auto in the car, and through the inspection cover i marked one of the holes that need to be made.
Remove the auto make the hole, refit the auto bolt the convertot to the single point. Spin it round mark the other holes remove the auto make the other holes and then put it all together. Sound safe enough?
I would start by ensuring the snout on the back of the convertor is the same as the spigot on the EA crank. If so you are halfway home. If its smaller, lathe up a ring to seat it centrally. If its bigger (unlikely) go no further.
Then measure the depth of both convertors to ensure you have positive engagement in the pump. If not, possible to machine the adaptor ring to push it deeper into the housing. But then you need deeper legs on the back of the convertor too. That would just warrant a trip to get a proper convertor done.
I can't recall if this is any off-set to the stock falcon flex plate, but if there is you could bolt it on backward, push the convertor into the crank, and mark the holes this way. Re-install the flex right way around. The holes need not be perfect if the convertor mounts snugly in the crank.
HTH.
btw: you shouldn't re-use dirty old convertors from one auto to the next without a flush apparently.
I love the epic bodge in cutting the bonnet but surely it would have been easier to just use two silicone elbows and snake the pipework round the front of the rocker cover and under the bonnet?
Less hassles from the po po that way. Top work either way![]()
Thanks for the detailed info Aaron, will check out the measurements when I get a chance to go to he wreckers.
It would have been more street friendly to run the piping another way but I think the cut adds to the cheapness of the project. Plus its a good laugh
just paint the pipe body colour... no one will notice unless they have a close look
'75 international acco fire truck!!
'70 VG sedan - current project, now 13's for $1300 project
'70 dodge yoot, current project - mothballed long term
'73 KE25 corolla - race car
'74 KE25 corolla - back on the road!
'89 BNR32 skyline - mothballed..
VL walkie style bonnet scoop
The paint idea will defiantly be done once the car starts getting driven on the street.
Quick update.
Got the beast driving today.
Need to look at the afr and timing as its very doughy off boost.
There is no doubt that we will need a stall and some gas because its ridiculously laggy. Starts making positive pressure by 2500-3000 and builds about 10psi at 4500. Starts to move its ugly add after 4000.
We got a little excited and hit fuel/boost cut at about 4700!
Will post videos and pictures when I get onto my pc.
Boosty - the lag monster!
Good that it is up and running.
How many nuns would a nunchuck chuck if a nunchuck could chuck nuns?