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Thread: 13 for 1300 - Helltruck 4000

  1. 11-01-11, 09:04 AM #31
    big_pete
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim View Post
    I'd suggest ditching the dinkywheel diff and fit an entire commodore IRS cradle. That way you won't need a tailshaft and can move the motor and box right back. Commo IRS seems to hook up pretty well too.
    I'm with this guy
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  2. 11-01-11, 10:15 AM #32
    2JZR31
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    Go Chuck. 11s?
    10.83 @ 125

    Quickest stock exhaust manifold stud 2JZ in Aus.

    Quote Originally Posted by 1uzusee View Post
    That's assuming that in 100yrs we will need Iron Ore/Gas/Coal etc. Thankfully, Labor has introduced the Carbon Tax, so in 100yrs we be able to build cars, buildings and boats from Tea Leafs and hugs.
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  3. 11-01-11, 11:53 AM #33
    ALLMTR
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    Quote Originally Posted by <---cop View Post

    You really need to start attaching images to your posts rather than using fucking imageshack all the time.
    Sorry but I only have tablet access atm and it won't support uploading to PF

    I'll know more about rear suspension once I get the tray off. The rear spring mounts bolt to the chassis which is a good thing. The chassis on these are C shaped rather than box so reasonably light.
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  4. 11-01-11, 11:57 AM #34
    Mr Ed
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    The chassis on these are C shaped rather than box so reasonably light.
    I thought they stopped doing that in the 1930s!
    "The trouble with quotes from the internet, is you can never tell if they're genuine."
    - Abraham Lincoln
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  5. 11-01-11, 12:22 PM #35
    HoonBoy
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    You would be stupid to put IRS in a leaf spring car...

    Slap in a bog-warmer diff with a stock shaft as short as you can get and use that for the engine/gearbox position.
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  6. 11-01-11, 12:27 PM #36
    lysdexia
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    clearly a welded stock diff with the dual wheels is the go. QUAD LEGGER!
    Last edited by lysdexia; 11-01-11 at 12:27 PM. Reason: spellong
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  7. 11-01-11, 12:35 PM #37
    TK
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    Stock diff is likely to have a short ratio = fast if it'll hook.

    I'd run the dual wheels & just soak the crap out of the tyres with tyre softener for a couple of weeks before racing.
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  8. 11-01-11, 12:53 PM #38
    vet 180
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    so cool. i would run the stock diff. as tony said the ratio's should be good and you get duel wheels
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  9. 11-01-11, 01:07 PM #39
    ALLMTR
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    Can I still run in the 275 class if I use 4 of them?
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  10. 11-01-11, 03:28 PM #40
    Ben.
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    cool as shit project

    will you actually finish it?
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  11. 11-01-11, 06:59 PM #41
    ALLMTR
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    History says no.

    Got the tray off this arvo. I'll start dummying up the drivetrain tomorrow
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  12. 11-01-11, 07:01 PM #42
    Jim
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    i guess running the dualies and softening the tyres up is the cheapest and easiest by far, so with all things considered I say stick with the live axle. change to something else if you can't get it to hook up.
    Your social better.


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn
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  13. 11-01-11, 07:05 PM #43
    OKE020
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    I can vouch for the short arse diff ratios, i drive a diesel one of these to work every day

    Chuck you're a mad man
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  14. 11-01-11, 07:13 PM #44
    HoonBoy
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    For the pics, use the "Links to share this image" and then "Direct" so you can use it like this:



    What are you planning for fuel/spark control?
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  15. 11-01-11, 07:15 PM #45
    morerevsm3
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    Quote Originally Posted by TK View Post
    You just leave the vac line off & shift it manually.

    Chuck - a shift kit that you can fit yourself in about an hour is something like $40 - gets rid of the pesky upshifts when the trans decides the motor is revving hard enough.
    I fitted one to the t400 in the tonner in about 1.5hrs up on axle stands - piece of piss.
    or just weld the governor, make it full manual control
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  16. 11-01-11, 08:25 PM #46
    2JLUX
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    $255 for a set of new slicks.

    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Go-Kart-MG-Ye...item27b4fcf801

    I must say you have my vote for most difficult 13 for 13 build.

    Good luck with it mate.
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  17. 11-01-11, 08:44 PM #47
    ALLMTR
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    Really? Seems to me it will be piss easy. Motor can be mounted back/forth/up/down with ease. No sump/steering/crossmember issues. J pipe I could knock up at home, take it out there and know it'll fit as there is nothing to hit. Dump pipe can be dead straight. Every crossmember from the cab back is rivetted in so if I want to move them forward/backward it's no problem
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  18. 11-01-11, 10:47 PM #48
    Mini_Me
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    awesome project. best of luck with it!
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  19. 11-01-11, 11:20 PM #49
    132oft
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    History says no.
    I hope to christ you get this running, fucking classic!
    Quote Originally Posted by <Paul Teutul, JR>
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  20. 11-01-11, 11:52 PM #50
    sammm
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Really? Seems to me it will be piss easy. Motor can be mounted back/forth/up/down with ease. No sump/steering/crossmember issues. J pipe I could knock up at home, take it out there and know it'll fit as there is nothing to hit. Dump pipe can be dead straight. Every crossmember from the cab back is rivetted in so if I want to move them forward/backward it's no problem
    I was also wondering why so many people were freaking out.

    If you can get it to 1000kg you won't even need the turbo, should do 13s with a reground cam.

    Radiator at the front with long hoses or back with the motor and some ducting?
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  21. 12-01-11, 05:55 AM #51
    jzx83
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    History says no.
    HAHAHA you're a crack up, Chuck.

    Looks like a mad project - in a good way.

    Let me be the first to say it, just to get it out of the way.


    Finish EEEEEEETT!!!!!
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  22. 12-01-11, 07:44 AM #52
    e30guy
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    definitely another one here hoping this project gets finished. I can see the benefits in your odd choice. Should perform fairly well too!
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  23. 12-01-11, 03:52 PM #53
    ALLMTR
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    Started dummying everything up. Everything seems ok except the two foot long tailshaft. . .

    http://img199.imageshack.us/i/20110112154404.jpg/
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  24. 12-01-11, 06:55 PM #54
    Jim
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    Your social better.


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn
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  25. 12-01-11, 06:56 PM #55
    Jim
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    two feet is heaps. run with it

    It's not like you'll get much suspension movement in the rear with those massive springs.

    did it have a motor in it when you got it? petrol or diesel?
    Your social better.


    Quote Originally Posted by seedyrom
    my neighbours called the cops...... not because of the sound of me working in the garage was too loud, but because i taped a cardboard box to my back, covered my self in vaseline and pretended i was a snail on their lawn
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  26. 12-01-11, 07:13 PM #56
    ALLMTR
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    Nah no motor. Was petrol.
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  27. 12-01-11, 07:38 PM #57
    dogsballs
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    take a few leafs outta the rear
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  28. 12-01-11, 07:39 PM #58
    dogsballs
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    and cut a few coils on the front
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  29. 12-01-11, 07:43 PM #59
    ALLMTR
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    Front is torsion bar
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  30. 12-01-11, 08:07 PM #60
    dogsballs
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    does it have a key to drop it then??
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    Blowjobs are like pizza - even when they're not that great they're still pretty good...
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