Sell it to some skyline owner, you just need a dump that points straight into a hole in your guard.
Sell it to some skyline owner, you just need a dump that points straight into a hole in your guard.
If I see you welding onto rusted metal again there will be fucking trouble.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
Originally Posted by bigmuz
flapper disk made short work of rust before welding.
This engine mount only has to last 13 seconds.
I suggested Sketchy apply multiple coats of paint. for strength.
It's an old Datsun, what are his options?
Al, can you fly down Wednesday to wire the Helltruck, thanks in advance
Xr6t ute 292rwkw 12.9 at 108mph
Plate on the block, plate on the mount, zot together with some black steel tube. One passenger engine mount. Left enough off each side to tack on some triangulated bracing if needed.
Looks a bit haggard but sturdy enough for a puny CA
D
I fucking mean it, don't weld onto dirty steel cunts.
Don't even try to weld over the black mill scale or blue paint that steel comes with let alone rust.
P.S. I have your B&M shifter Philip.
Last edited by JZK25; 17-06-11 at 07:05 PM.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
The man has a vallid point.
"Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."
It's not rusted metal, its a cut up rusted driveway plate.
Besides, its painted with structural paint now. Is Don, is good.
Turbo manifold has now been sliced, diced and the turbo J piped like a mother fucker.
I also cut about 30mm off the mount Az made, painted it and the rocker covers/inlet manifold.
Going to brace up the passenger mount tomorrow and paint that, hopefully make a start on the cooler mounting as well.
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Looks good.
The gearbox crossmember bots should be high tensile something- they appear to be hardware spec which are not even close unfortunately. You need a bolt with 8.8 on the head.
Fucken. Should have checked the thread again sooner
And then..... cunts outta nowhere!
日産シルビアS13 古い学校 1809cc/131ps - RIP 1989-2013
Some more pics from Friday evening. Had planned to get lots more done over the weekend. Got drunk and chased wimmenz instead. Again.
Anyway...
Working out the best position for the turbo to sit. Wasnt going to work in the standard low mount position as first intended due to the inlet housing fouling on the engine mount. Probably could have remade the mount but was just as much work to re mount the turbo.
J mount for the win. Tack it and check it...
And then finish it up. Also welded in a bracing tab between the flange and front cylinder outlet to keep it all stiff
Cooler piping will be easy as can be now
Cleaned up the mount Az started and modified it so the oil filter would fit in the standard spot. Painted it with structural paint to make sure its good.
In place.
As previously mentioned I painted some shit too
Dummied the painted bits in place to get a feel for how things are coming together.
Looks orright so far. Tomorrow night: Brace passenger side mount, paint and reinstall, auto sparky mate is dropping by to have a look at the wiring, remove rest of the inlet manifold and bin the NICS bullshit, make a start on the dump.
Honestly dont think I'll have it done by the end of the month but will have a solid crack at it and attempt to not get sidelined with liquor and women
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meh, really, I weld rusty shit for a living (boilermaker on a mine) a bit of mill scale or blue paint, no biggy, clean stuff where you can, but if not just turn the welder up....................... or use a stick welder, rust and shit doesn't scare them
Lookin good! This might be actually worth something at the end
Xr6t ute 292rwkw 12.9 at 108mph
Looks really good actually. Nice work.
Lol, he's not welding shit that's thick enough to just turn it up.
Getting there Phil.
Don't forget a trans cooler.
If you can fit them Stints has some drag radials on 4x114.3 rims you can borrow.
Also, measure the distance between centres of leaf spring mounts and post up. Might be able to find a diff that bolts in.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
Cheers mate, having the car presentable for the SM article is what it driving me to get this thing done, plus I want to be able to move it on when I'm done rather than have yet another project car cluttering the driveway. Being brown its going to cop some kind of military spec graphics/paint job and not a hokey drift camo lamespec either
Yeah Az tried that, and blew holes in it. Forgetting he turned the gas off didnt help either
I'm trying to track down a stock CA auto radiator that has the transcooler built in for ease of installation but if you happen to find one under the bench let me know. Defintely keen on the drag radials, will attempt to come up over the weekend to grab the shifter, engine crane and the radials if possible.
Nissan H190 diff from S12 Gazelle/Silvia is the bolt in option for these things so might be more fruitful doing a search on one of them. I'll jack it up tonight and get those measurement when we start on welding the centre.
Anyone got an old pod filter lying around? All mine seem to have dissappeared. Also chasing some Nissan converter bolts so the thing can be properly bolted in.
Tim: any luck with the shifter bracket? I may not need it but would be handy to have for a test fit. All that A12 stuff is here waiting to be taken away too.
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Your K&N is at my place. Measure that diff, there might be better options.
A CA radiator is no use, the auto heat exchanger on them is not good enough for what you are doing. Some cunt will have an old trans cooler kicking around.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
the B+M linkages are downstairs mate, just let me know when u want to grab them.
Spoke to the A-series guy, he didn't sound interested sorry.
This looks tits.
Makes me want to turbo my CA18 rather than bin it for an engine conversion.
And then..... cunts outta nowhere!
日産シルビアS13 古い学校 1809cc/131ps - RIP 1989-2013
Duly noted. And thanks
Will do. Any datsun forums or people who may be interested in the shit? Would rather it go to someone who can use it than the dump. Engine is a good runner.
If there is no interest in the car as a whole once its done I'll look at seperating the gear as parts. Other than a couple of minor things (like the lack of piston oil squirters) the N/A CA18 isnt a bad base to start with. Slightly higher compression, more aggressive inlet cam for a start.
Also, can anyone tell me what the factory injectors are rated at and what would be an acceptable drop in solution? I have at least two sets of 380cc RB20DET injectors here that I could drop in while I have the manifold apart but NFI what flow rate or impedance the stockers are.
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CA18DE injectors are high impedance 270cc, CA18DET are low impedance 340cc.
Read this too:
Upgrade for CA18DE injectors
1989-91 RX-7 195500-2010 Saturated 460cc Red Top injectors
Last edited by <---cop; 21-06-11 at 11:59 AM.
And then..... cunts outta nowhere!
日産シルビアS13 古い学校 1809cc/131ps - RIP 1989-2013
Stetchy - I've got a K&N type POD that has an RB25 AFM adapter you can have.
datsun 1200 for the engine mate. list it as free. should get some poeple keen.
bang on yep
RB20 ones are the same as atmo CA ones though, 270cc high imp.
HR31 Coupe - RB20, Bilsteins, Cage and shit
R31 Ti - Sun Visor, Venetian Blinds, Coilovers, Whiteline Bars, Wog Stance.
I have a set of WRX 440s here Phil. You can decap them to 600cc easily too.
Measure your available space for the radiator and I will see what I have. I was thinking the E30's old rad would be plenty big enough.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
Mint, cheers bloke.
I had the same thought about the BMW radiator but am fairly certain it was cactus.
Fellow eurogeek mate came by tonight and helped me pull the NICS flappers out of the inlet plenum and told me an early golf radiator would be the gun setup as it has the inlet and outlet on the same side as the CA with an internal bypass.
I'll probably grab tha rad anyway on the weekend if I can get some cunt to drive up.
Oldmate eurogeek reckons magnas have a perfect size transcooler that should do the job too, and from memory so do lots of falcons.
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CA18s are the new hotness. Now if I can just find money/motivation to do the last few little jobs on mine...
You'd want too. If I finish this before you finish yours I dont want any BoganDave/crack style cunt hurt from you
I'd be happy to lend a hand if I was able to drive over mate.
Also, does a seat count as part of the cost or as a safety item? I have a few kicking around at home and am going to put a fixed back racing bucket for extra JDM hektik and to be a little more secure. The pulsar seats that came with it are actually pretty comfy but I'd rather feel like I'm not piloting a brown metal coffin.
Got a bit more done last night. Yanked the inlet manifold off again and got stuck into pulling the lower part of the manifold off that contains the NICS butterflies to promote bottom end torque by channelling the incoming air through one smaller port and then opening up at higher rpm for top end stomp. By all accounts this really doesnt do much so out it comes.
Manifold off
You can see the butterflies in the middle of the ports here
Pop the actuator off, seperate the manifold into two peices, unscrew the blade screws (cunts of things) and slide the linkage out
My main concern now is if having the hole running through the all of the inlet tracts is going to cause any issues. My guess is probably not. The end holes will get blocked off, I popped the plastic carriers out and there is a perfect recess for a nut or even just fill with weld.
You can see here how the inlet manifold steps from 4 to 8 ports for the NICS system. I think it was a good idea in theory but the idea of the inlet charge being jammed against a flat plate and subsequent reversion would be more trouble than its worth. I'm not an engineer though so only my two cents.
P.S dont look through the holes
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I looked
Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster
CJM 4 Life yo!
Sames.
Phil with the holes between each runner, most people that remove them on redtop RB20s (exact same design, just 2 cylinders longer) usually plug them with some devcon steel putty or whatevs. that or they remove the butterflys, but then reinstall the bar.
HR31 Coupe - RB20, Bilsteins, Cage and shit
R31 Ti - Sun Visor, Venetian Blinds, Coilovers, Whiteline Bars, Wog Stance.
Concur.... I've seen some comparison on Nissansilvia.com where they claimed some 30-40% less torque with them removed but I still believe there's a bit of BS there. Removed mine and plugged up holes, sanded over.
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