fuck talkin, pics or skids or GTFO!!
So progress has been a little slow so far this week but got a couple of things sorted out today and will have some pics tomorrow night.
Picked up a bosch external fuel pump from my old E30, scrounged some subaru igniter modules to wire up on the Haltech, and Al welded some alloy elbows onto the cooler so we can finish plumbing it up.
My usual wiring guy Marcus has been hella busy over the last few weeks so there is a possible plan to truck the Sunny up to Al's and spend a full weekend working on it up there with a few guys to finish all the fiddly bits off.
Tomorrow should see most of the engine back together, and the fuel system finished other than wiring.
Previously known as Lobster, Chuss's brother's anus, Chuss's brother, Lobsook, Lobstersock, Socks, Sockz, MissAmericaImportGirl, ClutchCLobster
CJM 4 Life yo!
There has been a bit of progress with this of late, just been slack with the photos. I'll snap some later today and pop them up.
If anyone can give us an idea about pulling axles out of a Sunny diff, it would be appreciated. Have undone the backing plates, handbrake, etc and even after a solid yank (almost enough to pull the car off the stands) the pricks wont come out. Something I may be missing?
Bolt the wheel on backwards for some more leverage?
Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.
I may have 2 10 inch davies craig peices of crap for you if you like. I wsa going to use them on my datto but they are a bit crusty and i wanted to get something better, I seem to have more space then you infront of the motor.
So I realised tonight that I had not been forthcoming with the previously mentioned pics and progress.
Have done absolutely zero with the car for a while due to work commitments and travelling overseas but itching to get back in the car now that I'm back so I can move onto other projects.
I was struggling last time with getting the axles out to remove the diff. Had a scrounge around and utilsed some dumb bells from the gym to do the job of a slide hammer.
Worked a treat. You can see the arrangement here.
Passenger side too.
Next thing was to cut some strips of flat bar and weld it across the spider gears in the diff, and then weld everything to everything else.
Shit is hot
Chip off the slag afterwards, this thing is a precision instrument.
Noticed a small bit of slag on the crown wheel, Cracka took to it with the dremel. Made near as fuck to no difference, just spun it till it ground away.
Installed diff and axels back in the car and filled with oil. Still pretty crook from a virus I picked up on my way home from Indonesia so once I'm back on my feet, I'll hoik the tailshaft back in, finally connect up the shifter to the box and dig up some converter bolts. Managed to snag some heavy duty battery cables from myshortyboomba's wrecked Porsche to relocate the battery to the boot, which means I can now finish the plumbing at the front end of the engine bay.
More stuff as it happens.
People laugh at me for using a proper slide hammer, but I tell you they are worth it when you get a stubborn axle.
Cheers bloke. I will be hitting you up for some wiring advice shortly, tired of waiting on other cunts who never turn up. Time to learn to do it myself.
Got any suggestions for those injectors too? As you mentioned the sti 440's are shorter than the stockers so either the fuel rail mounts need to be modified or some sort of collet machined up to house the injectors.
More shit is happening on this.
Got the tailshaft in tonight, tidied up the fuel line and started running the cables to relocate the battery to the boot.
Shifter cable has royally shat itself so looks like I may have to take a chunk out of the remaining budget and get one that works or try to mod the factory selector rod somehow.
Got the Haltech almost finished, igniters wired and mounted, injectors in and the car cranking nicely. Got to load up the base map as I believe the original map is from one of Coffin's earlier 13b turbo set ups.
One problem we are having currently, the ignitors are obviously giving spark as the plus will zap once when the ignition is turned on but refuses to keep sparking when the car is cranking over. Most of the sensors are connected bar the map sensor for the haltech, any gurus able to shed some light on this issue? Will running the correct base map solve this?
Thread from the dead.
Got the shits and enlisted Glenno's help with this nugget today. Is now a runner and sounds very healthy/cranky. Started fabbing cooler pipes but was having some issues with my helmet after not being used for 6 months so first weld looked like I gave it to steven hawking for a laugh so gave up shortly after.
Will finish cooler piping tomorrow and possibly the exhuast if I'm motivated enough. Dumping at the gearbox is lol worthy but ultimately will see me in jail while tuning the thing. Still chasing a 3bar GM map sensor if anyone has a spare. If anyone has a TIG and can do alloy I'm happy to provide some beers to assist with finishing the radiator piping as well.
Massive props to Glenno by the way. If anyone needs a car sorted the guy has a wealth of knowledge and works like a ninja. He did a heap of background work getting the Haltech to stop speaking gibberish via a DOS emulator and got the base map loaded up. Plugged it all in today and started on the second or third crank.
DrivenFX all the way
That camera work was tripping me out!
They say i know fuck nothing, but i know fuck all!
The thing definatley sounds healthy started to fire as soon as the injectors bled the air out.
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