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Thread: Post a pic up of your best welds

  1. #661
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dimi View Post
    i screw one if these into my #9, with stubby cup its like 1" overall. Most cages are loose enough you could weld with that in final position.

    Not sure why you would be welding front legs to the main hoop after the main hoop is installed though? strapping the legs of the hoop together and dropping down between the rails gives you a couple inches to work in.

    Cool, thanks for this. My scenario is going from a state level cage, which doesn't require a roof diagonal, to a national level cage, which needs a roof diagonal + A pillar supports.

  2. #662
    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
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    Saw these at Supercheap today.



    Might be handy for those wanting to be lazy when it comes to cleaning ally.

  3. #663
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Been ages since I got legit time in the she'd and on the torch.

    I really really need to make it, a priority to get regular daily torch time just To Help imlrove my consistency and Shit

    But yeah. Needed a new stem for the road bike. Have had an idea for internal hidden clamps rolling around in my head.

    So finally bit the bullet and got it, done.

    Worked pretty wrll in the end. I ahve a few tricks to try down the track that I think will make it, a lot easier and cleaner to make.

    Also weighs the same (within a few grams) Of The aluminium stem it replaced. Have to add some Braze ons and a garmin mount before I can ride it, and see how long it, lasts doing standing starts lol

    Pics are. A bit random, but hopefully you get the idea.

    I had to resize yhe clamps each end, and it's a bit messy, but I have figured out (yes I'm slow) that 34.9 and 31.8 in 1.6mm wall will give me the right internal I'd and I can slin them down on the lathe for the extra 3 gram weight savings

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    Last edited by fantapants; 27-07-18 at 08:09 PM. Reason: Forgot a pic...
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
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    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

  4. #664
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    Been making a bunch of these @ work, tossing up whether to sell them or not. Used to just make them to get practice welding (plus never had proper tooling to accurately cut alloy donuts).

    I don't bother with a steel brush to clean them, just use acetone to remove all surface impurities (also clean the filler rod).

  5. #665
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Thought some here might be interested in this?
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  6. #666
    Ease Up Turbo Commotion's Avatar
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    I went to an ansys product launch at djr some months ago and they had someone doing a presentation. It seems like a pretty small operation but something thatís gaining momentum. Good to see some innovation happening in Aus.

  7. #667
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    Don't post in here too often, but I've been whoring this pic around a bit on the social medias. Trying to get used to the new Lincoln welder and digital foot pedal rather than my old Unimig with it's potentiometer style pedal.
    Finally starting to get it down pat, and pretty happy with this one.

    2.4mm thoriated tungsten, 25 on the gauge pure argon, 12mm ceramic cup, 1.6mm 316li filler. No pulse, all foot pedal, around 75-80 amps at a guess.

  8. #668
    Ease Up Turbo Commotion's Avatar
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    Iím curious, did u get a positive response from the old social mediaís? I found them welding pages full off knuckle dragging fuk tards who are overly critical of the few people who post neat work yet never post anything they have done themselves.

    So in contrast to them... itís looks great. Keep up the good work. 👍

  9. #669
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    It was my personal pages, so nothing overly public. There's always critics, but there's always room for improvement. Especially given I'm a backyard hobbyist and not a welder.

  10. #670
    Gas Turbine enthusiast da9jeff's Avatar
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    A mate fitted hydro assist (retains steering box) to his JK. The shop (one of the bigger ones in adelaide) that got the kit for him supplied some fucked up undersized bolt with sleeves and spacers that rattled around etc. This is a 5/8 bolt and cut down threaded bung. 130A and 2 passes.

    I wouldn't normally do other people's steering stuff but it's only a secondary linkage, and far stronger than what he had.

    Rock solid and now steers like a tractor (which I assume was what he wanted, lol).

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    Last edited by da9jeff; 19-09-18 at 07:48 PM.
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  11. #671
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    First attempt at welding stainless

    Expansion of the home brewery is under way, and I've got a 70+ litre wine keg which needs to be adapted to kettle duties. This involves cutting the top out of it, and welding a fitting into the bottom.

    As we know, stainless needs to be back purged when welding. I managed to pay a bit too much for this dual valve setup, but it works great. The black hose goes to the welder, the red hose is the purge line.




    I started the day practicing on some 2" offcuts, which will ultimately become legs for the brewing table. I ran the purge line into a latex glove, and put another glove on the other end, so I could see what was going on with the argon back purge:




    First attempt at a fusion weld, with no filler rod:





    Second attempt, with filler rod:




    Laying the job horizontal didn't work too well, the inside of the first two welds above looked pretty black, suggesting that they were exposed to air. Also I think I was using too small a cup, so I changed to a the biggest cup I have, a 10, and upped the gas flow for both the torch and the purge. Argon is a lot heavier than air, so I tried sitting the next practice job upright so the argon sank down to where I was welding:





    This worked a lot better, and the inside of the weld looked better than the outside.




    On to the actual job, welding the fitting into the keg. I thought 304 was soft, apparently not, I couldn't drill through the bottom of the keg, ended up using an angle grinder and a die grinder. This hole took two hours to make, but as we know, it's worth the time to get a good fitup:





    i couldn't find an old foam cushion to do the back purge setup that Moke suggested in the other thread, so I used aluminium foil and masking tape to seal the inside, then put the latex glove and purge line onto the fitting.





    The finished result, good enough for a kettle:

    Last edited by Sprinkles; 13-10-18 at 07:28 PM.

  12. #672
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    I prefer the regulator with the y piece before the flow metres so you know exactly what the flow rate is. Good for purging fuel tanks so you can do some quick maffs

  13. #673
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    Quote Originally Posted by bang chong View Post
    I prefer the regulator with the y piece before the flow metres so you know exactly what the flow rate is. Good for purging fuel tanks so you can do some quick maffs
    So do you need two flow meters for that setup? I'm having trouble picturing it. There was a noticeable drop in the purging pressure (Shown by the amount of inflation of the gloves) every time I hit the trigger on the torch.

  14. #674
    Registered User bang chong's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sprinkles View Post
    So do you need two flow meters for that setup? I'm having trouble picturing it. There was a noticeable drop in the purging pressure (Shown by the amount of inflation of the gloves) every time I hit the trigger on the torch.

  15. #675
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    Got it, thanks. But this would have the same issue I had today, the pressure in the purge line would drop when you pull the trigger on the torch. You could do your calcs on purging a fuel tank with a single flow meter, just let it run for the required amount of time before starting welding.

    I think the ultimate setup would be two separate cylinders, regs and flow meters, one for purging and one for the welder.

  16. #676
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    Yesh def helps to have dedicated split purge and reg flow.
    Also use the purge flow as a pressure to "hold up" the molten puddle, so deoending on the soze and amount of exit holes there is really only 5 to 8lpm needed in purge while welding

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  17. #677
    Registered User fantapants's Avatar
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    So a while back I made a head stem for my roady. It worked OK but had a few logistical issues I wanted to sort. So I've been ridong it for the last few months just making sure it didn't explode in a fireball of death and pain, and it's held up to standing starts and everything with no sign of fatigue. I left the paint off the ensure I could spot welds cracking etc.

    Anyways, I saved enough money to order some frame finishing brazons from my old mate Darrell. Included were some stainless bosses for bolting seat tubes tight.

    I used these to act as the tensioner in my hide clamp bit.

    Also used a shim for the steerer tube clamp instead of cutting and joining. I madd a few mistakes also, but I Recon by the next One I'll have it all perfect lol. Biggest mistake andnrework was cutting the h slots THEN welding the clamps on. Shit idea. So then I started again and welded the clamp on and then cut the H slot. Lol simple I knkw but you sometimes gotta fuck up to learn

    Changes for the next One, need tl order some thick wall chromemolly to machine down to size rather than cutting and rejoining.... It "works" but is messy as inside the clamp.

    Sent from my HTC 2PS6200 using Tapatalk
    RIP Carly - a smile to light the world.
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    http://www.performanceforums.com/for...#post842594902 - making little toys for the big boys

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