I am using an EWP115 on Crackas V12 shitter. The EWP and Fan controller looks like a good thing but I don't want to bother with it if the ECU can do the same functions easily.
Opinions?
I am using an EWP115 on Crackas V12 shitter. The EWP and Fan controller looks like a good thing but I don't want to bother with it if the ECU can do the same functions easily.
Opinions?
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
Originally Posted by bigmuz
i had a ewp and fan controller last all of 5 minutes , so i changed it to a solid state relay run by a ecu.
actually the only thing the davies craig thing did was pulsed the water on/off until it was up to temp , whereas with the ecu i just have it run at different speeds.
What is this relay you speak of? That's what I want to do, run it at different speeds. I was thinking of using a fuel pump controller but something simpler would be good.
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
jaycar have them. your keeping the thermostat right ? cos without one i cannot run the ewp slow enough to keep water temp on a cold night. something i suspect the davies craig may be able to do.
Are you sure? I seem to recall that it pulses at 3v or something like that at cold temperatures, then increases the frequency until the engine reaches temperature. Once the engine reaches operating temperature, it starts to ramp up the voltage.
The controller I had on the mr2 (older style screw adjustable) was awesome, it hit normal temperature by the end of the driveway then never moved again.
Imagination is more important than knowledge.
Not having a thermostat, there wasn't one on the engine or a housing, part of the reason to go electric.
Are the alloy housing pumps better than plastic?
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
nah it distinctly had on/off at 6v , then ramped straight to 12v continous (like you say) once you hit the 85 or 95c presets.
they do have a pdf on the website that outlines its operation. i was so furious after it shit itself i just threw the cunt in the bin.
hmm ok , no thermostat is a bit of a cunt. has been on my 2j anyway.
meziere do make a sweet all-alloy-no plastic shit 55gpm pump with a built in thermostat , id go that route over pump controllers and crap if i did it again.
actually you can get me on 0421 878 092 if you want any more dribble on the subject.
I run one of these through my m800. It has a 3d table that lets it run just like there is a thermostat in the cooling system(i dont use/have a thermsostat).
Basically when cold it cycles very slowly and as it warms up it gets faster. When it reaches a certain temp it runs flat out or close too it.
Yep that's how I set them up on the Haltech too, Bernie's rx7 runs it like that, 15% duty at 20deg and 100% at 85deg and it works perfectly,
Jaycar solid states are shit and I would reccomend you spend a little more and get one from moech or Haltech..
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
Is there a way to tell if the pump stops working (I.E. Seized/blown fuse etc)? Do they have a flow sensor in them or do you just alarm/shutdown on a high coolant temperature?
If you are running a pdm you can configure it to send a warning to your adl if the pump seizes(high current draw/ circuit overload) and pop a warning light so you can read the warning message displayed.
With our spending $4000 on a pdm setup you can use the good old water temp gauge!
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
Put a dash light tapped into the pump power - I will be doing this in the new year on a comp truck - no time to watch the temp gauge while picking lines.
Better way is to fit up a flow switch I reckon?
You could also do that.
the one jaycar sells is the same one on the haltech website.
How does this solid state relay work? Is it a relay that can do PWM voltage control?
David Fraser - Automotive Historian!
nah they are not... trust me.. the jaycar ones dont work properly with the ecu... tried them on bernies car and threw 2 of them in the bin...
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
put as low current PWM input in and it will output a high current PWM output..
ie you can run like 20 injectors or a water pump etc off a low output PWM driver..
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
hmm fuck , well ill keep that in mind.
it was good when i dynoed the car , but havent driven it a whole lot since.
they work flat out and thats it.. no speed control from memory...
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
does yours have a red light on it??
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
no light but its got the exact same markings and part numbers on it as the haltech one.
had no trouble running the pump at varied speed via the autronic.
matty did put a diode across two of the terminals though , to stop back "EMT" or something ?
ok your jaycar must have different stock to my jaycar.. the ones we had had red lights on them..
you need the resistor across it to stop them holding the pump on flat out when you turn the key off
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
ok found it
the SY4084 is the only ones jaycar used to sell,
they now have the SY4086 which is the right one..
im a cunt
and apparently i dont know shit...
Where is the Haltech one on their site, i cant see it?
Need one to drive water injection pump as the Adaptronic PWM outputs arent rated high enough current
[edit] nm will just get that Jaycar one ^
Last edited by UZZ31; 28-12-11 at 06:56 PM.
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He he, you're getting AC/DC mixed up there Dale. Jaycar sell both and the 4084 is for switching AC, it wouldn't have worked well with DC.
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