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Thread: Babalouie Rotor Love

  1. #61
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Decided to do a little more work on the suspension today. Firstly, the pillowball tops were looking a little second hand...and the coilovers would make an annoying noise when you applied lock, which I'll explain in a moment.


    So up she goes on stands.


    For what I''ll be doing, the strut legs will come off, but first the caliper is unbolted and wired up to the side.


    When I turn the wheel to apply a lot of lock (say when parking), you can hear this ka-ting, ka-ting noise. Basically what happens is that as the bottom part of the strut turns, rotational force is applied to the top spring hat (and hence the pillowball top) via the spring. So the spring binds a bit, then releases, and that's that ka-ting noise. It's very annoying and you can feel it as a slight notchiness in the steering. G4's fix for it, is to install a rubber isolator at the top and bottom of the spring, but in my case, as the original shocks died, oil leaked out and ate away the rubber which fell to pieces.


    And when I installed the new shocks a few weeks ago, I forgot to get new rubber isolators, and installed the springs without them. Anyway, this made the ka-ting, ka-ting much worse and as of today I couldn't stand it and went to see Frank at K-Sport. His solution is a bit different to G4's, which is instead of using rubber to give the spring grip, he installs a combination of steel and hard plastic spacers, which are greased up before assembly.


    One goes at the top, and another at the bottom of the spring.


    Ready for installation...I like to set up the spring height with no preload, which is to say that the spring, when installed is just very lightly trapped in place (the actual ride height is set by screwing the whole schock up and down in the bottom blue mount). I find this gets the best ride, without a "tense" quality that you usually get with coilovers.


    Before installation...the new K-Sport vs the old G4 pillowball top. The K-Sport one is much bigger, so you use a thicker tubular spacer (pictured) when installing the shock. I didn't think there was anything wrong with the old G4 pillowballs, but when I compared them to the new ones, they do seem a little worn. The new ones are very stiff, to the point where you can't move the ball by hand, whereas the old G4s move quite smoothly by hand and maybe have a tiny bit of slop. Anyway they are 6yr old, so have had a good innings.


    Installed and ready to go!


    Well the minor suspension makeover has worked like a charm, the steering is silky smooth and silent from lock to lock now. Frank suggested that once a year, say during an oil change, it's a good idea to loosen the springs and paint some new grease between washers. But the front end is super tight feeling, I reckon it's pretty sorted now.
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  2. #62
    "The bitches, are wet" Sketchy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bahaimus View Post
    They'll be a different kind of chick though. For example in Bab's car they'll be chicks that grew up in the 80's and still have wild unkempt bushes whereas in Sketchy's car they're more likely to be prepubescent in appearance (their cunts I mean).
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    Here's a novel idea. Go fuck yourself
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  3. #63
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    It would appear that QBond is not a permanent fix for the broken bonnet trim...because for the past few months, the Luce has looked like this (since the day the bonnet trim flew off)


    My heart sank at the sight of the trim fly over the roof of the car and get squashed by the traffic behind, because I've always thought that this part was NLA. Indeed, Mazda Australia no longer lists it as being available. But my good buddy Daeden at Mazda managed to work out that they are still available in Japan...and here we are!


    Nothing like nice,shiny new things




    So much better.


    As far as I know, Mazda Australia brought more than one bonnet trim into the country, so for a very limited time only...they are back in stock! Part number here if anyone out there needs one:
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  4. #64
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    Probably NOS from back in the day.

  5. #65
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Was meaning to do a few things on the Hako in the past week, but the Luce has thrown its toys out of the cot and demanded some attention One day I was driving along, I'd fitted a new battery but it had grown weaker and weaker, but I had to use the Luce so I kept driving it. Then one day I was pulling into the driveway and the engine started to stumble, the instruments grew dim, a few warning lights came on and it all seemed like it was really running out of electrical juice real fast. A bit of testing with the multimeter showed that the battery was only charging at 10.7V and but a little further investigation showed that there was no current drain with the engine off. So it was probably a dead regulator in the alt, or maybe the alt itself is toast.

    Apparently a Ford Falcon (EL-series) alternator has twice the output, and is plug and play. Cool, so I go and get one, and....it doesn't fit. The Falc alt uses a multi-rib belt, whereas my S4 13BT uses a narrow V-belt. Righto...so I return it and order an RX-7 alt.

    And when it arrives...ok looks promising...


    But..err..the plugs are different.


    After some research, I discover that it's a S5 FC alt, whereas I need an S4 one. So I call my mate Simon from Zap Bits Electrical, and he provides some simple advice on how to make it work. Turns out that it's wired totally differently. The S4 has one wire that runs from Ign-on (that switches on the regulator inside the alt) and a second wire that goes to the dash charge warning light. The S5 just has a wire that goes to batt +ve and should be wired up like this. So you just tuck away the old alternator wiring and make up new stuff like so:


    However, while that looks simple, the connection to battery has to be a "twin 8 gauge with 120 amp fuse or breaker. Field circuit 4mm with 15A fuse fed from battery was well." Now, Simon is an absolute legend, but I have no idea what any of that means so I take the new alt back to Auto One and we pore over some catalogs until we find a brand that (rather helpfully) has a catalog that shows the shape of the plug, and eventually track down an S4 alt. Fast forward a few days and we get to the next chapter of AlternatorGate with alternator #3...


    Superficially it looks great...but the closer you look, the more little differences you find


    The new one has a slightly larger pulley, which means it'll turn a little slower, but I guess as long as it charges enough at idle, then it probably isn't a bad thing.


    Then the distance between the mounting points on the new alternator were 1.5mm wider, due to the old one having a pressed-in spacer. After a bit of head scratching, I found a washer of the right thickness and slotted that in for a nice fit.


    The new alt also has a threaded front mounting, which was easy enough to drill out.


    But after all that...it's in...


    And is charging healthily at idle, so the bigger pulley is not a problem I suppose.


    The only problem is...the new alternator is making a weird noise...like it's got a bad bearing *facepalm*. But, it's all working now and I'll drive it a little to see if the noise goes away (not holding my breath). Who knew that changing an alternator would be such a hassle? With the Hako, I generally just assume that parts will be hard to source, and so I would have just taken the old alt to an electrician for rebuilding, but I figured since the Luce just has a 13BT RX-7 alternator, that sourcing an aftermarket one would be easier But after this experience, I reckon I'd just have gotten the old one rebuilt with hindsight. After chatting with the Auto One guys, it seems that replacement alternator are a constant source of hassle for them. Not only do they have to deal with hardware changes during the model's lifecycle (eg from S4 to S5 FC3S) but sometimes a manufacturer will change suppliers for seemingly no good reason, and so there will be several alternators which will possibly fit for any given year. \

    Live and learn I suppose...I might try adjusting the alternator belt to see if it makes any difference but might have to take the car over to Auto One and let them have a listen, and maybe order a replacement one *shakes head*

    While the Luce was in the garage, I figured I'd remove the 15mm bolt-on KICS spacers from the front. I'd replaced the old 215/40 Federals with some good 205/50 Michelin Pilot Sports I had lying around, and they were a bit chubbier and bigger in diameter. So on full lock, it would rub on the guard liner, which was not only annoying, but behind the guard liner on the left side are the a/c lines for the fridge, and I can't let those get damaged

    Off come the spacers, and I have this handy-dandy tool for bracing the hub while I undo the spacer bolts. These were fitted 6yrs ago, and so I was expecting them to be frozen-on, since they get the differential corrosion between the steel nuts and the ally spacer.


    But when I fitted them, I'd put a smear of nickel anti-seize between the surfaces, so they came off easily. Sometimes the prongs just shear off.


    And off they come!


    The fitment with the spacers was pretty spot-on, so without them I do have a tiny bit of offset-fail...but hey it doesn't rub anymore
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  6. #66
    pissed off irsa76's Avatar
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    Yeah I loved chasing a new alt for the Subaru. Either my exact year wasn't listed, '91, or they listed 3 or 4 alternators and none were even remotely the same as mine. Turned out mine was some weird twin pulley high output thing.

  7. #67
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Hoiked the belt a little tighter, and it's quiet-as at the moment, so I am taking back everything I said about the budget korea-made alternator
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  8. #68
    www.MotorSportFotos.com Southo's Avatar
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    See, you love working on this so much, you could never sell it !!!!
    Jason (aka Southo)
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  9. #69
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    It pretty much drives like new, so would be a hard thing to replace for the $$
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  10. #70
    www.MotorSportFotos.com Southo's Avatar
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    I would love to own it.. but Rotors scare me - so I will just admire it from a distance....
    Jason (aka Southo)
    Tact. –noun
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  11. #71
    R31 Test Pilot 31GUN's Avatar
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    I've heard these use a lot of petrol. Is this true?
    This is serious mum!

  12. #72
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 31GUN View Post
    I've heard these use a lot of petrol. Is this true?
    That's preposterous.
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  13. #73
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Any updates Babs?

  14. #74
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    Why didn't you just change the pulley on that alternator? They are rattled on and off in about ten seconds..

  15. #75
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    Why didn't you just change the pulley on that alternator? They are rattled on and off in about ten seconds..
    Care Factor Deficiency.
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  16. #76
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    So instead of changing the pulley you went to two places to get another alternator, spoke to your auto electrician, printed out wiring diagrams, failed, got a different plug, had to tighten the belt twice.

    You're doing lazy wrong man

  17. #77
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Wrong pulley was a factor in all 3 alternators, however alternator #1 & #2 has somewhat more fundamental accompanying issues.

    Alternator #3 had a slightly wrong pulley (ie less wrong than #1 which required a longer belt) and fewer accompanying issues.
    Last edited by Babalouie; 01-09-12 at 12:49 PM.
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  18. #78
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beavis View Post
    Any updates Babs?
    Well I spose there's one thing I've been mucking around with lately. The Luce has a plastic chrome trim around the shifter, which is pretty trashed. The Hako also has some plasti-chrome pieces in the interior I want to re-do, so I guess that means the Luce got volunteered to be the guinea pig


    So, I went out and bought an ALSA Mirrachrome DIY kit...which looks great according to their Youtube vid.


    The Luce's plastichrome is actually a proper metallic coating, starting with a copper base, and then what looks like real chrome. But I figure over time, the underlying copper corrodes (there is some green stuff under there) and then the whole caboodle starts to lift


    To remove the trim, I start by dremeling the melted-on lugs at the back of the piece.


    The trim comes off easily, and the remaining chrome literally comes off like peeling a hardboiled egg First I lightly sand it with 800 grit paper, then hit it with plastic primer (which is clear)


    Then basecoat it with the ALSA jet black...and I try to lay on a nice thick layer to make it as smooth and glossy as possible. Then you add a layer of clearcoat to improve the gloss again


    Then mist on the chrome paint...and then when that dries after 30mins you buff it with this special cloth...and then you clearcoat it again.


    And...well....to me it just looks like a rather nice metallic silver paint, than anythign remotely chrome-like.

    I should point out that the above is actually version 2...with version 1, I sprayed on the basecoats too thinly, and it was more of a satin finish, rather than a thick, glossy one.


    I figured this was wrong, but decided to push on anyway, just to see whether it makes any difference to the finished product...well it does


    Quite frankly, version 1 was rubbish, and version 2 is better, but not what you would call chrome. The instructions seem to suggest that it's important to get the black basecoat very smooth and shiny, so I decide to sand it all back and start again. Take #3. So I rubbed it back, re-applied the black basecoat and then wet sanded it with 1200grit, going upwards to 1800grit. Then buffed with Meguiars compound until it was glassy smooth.


    If this was a paintjob on the actual outside of the car, it would be pretty schmick...it ,might look wet, but it's actually bone dry for several days. I don't reckon I can get it any better than this, and certainly it wouldn't even be possible to get a fiddly chrome badge or something up to this level.


    And did it make a difference to the Killer Chrome? Umm...maybe a tiny little bit




    But still nowhere near what it needs to look like.


    After a quick google, it seems that there are heaps of ppl who say that it doesn't quite turn out like expected, so I guess I'm not alone.

    And would you believe that it's $250 worth of paint? Oh well, live and learn. The next thing I want to try is some chrome foil that sticks on like gold leaf.
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  19. #79
    pissed off irsa76's Avatar
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    I was going to say try baremetal foil as used on scale models. But looks like you're already looking down that path. Chrome "paint" is misnomer, it always seems to end up looking like non metalic silver! I suppose another option is getting the trim pieces rechromed properly, although not sure how much that would cost.
    Last edited by irsa76; 02-09-12 at 08:29 AM. Reason: I speek enrish good.

  20. #80
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    I think it looks quite good but I can't see any pressure pack being much better at making it look like chrome.

    You could get that exact finish and colour using silver basecoat over primer for about $60.

  21. #81
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    I think it looks quite good but I can't see any pressure pack being much better at making it look like chrome.

    You could get that exact finish and colour using silver basecoat over primer for about $60.
    Yeah it turns out like a nice metallic silver, rather than anything that looks like chrome. It's supposed to look like this, tho:


    Quote Originally Posted by irsa76 View Post
    I was going to say try baremetal foil as used on scale models. But looks like you're already looking down that path. Chrome "paint" is misnomer, it always seems to end up looking like non metalic silver! I suppose another option is getting the trim pieces rechromed properly, although not sure how much that would cost.
    Yes, you can get plastic pieces rechromed properly with a copper dip, etc. But only if it's removable from the car. In the case of the chrome strips on the Hako door cards, they're not removable.
    Last edited by Babalouie; 02-09-12 at 08:48 AM.
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  22. #82
    Registered User Purple-Headed Love Truncheon's Avatar
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    dna paints make a very decent chrome paint.

  23. #83
    Hurry The Fuck Up bigmuz's Avatar
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    Babalouie- Sure- but the aerosol is not the same as the paint you put in a gun and spray. I have seen some pretty good results with a spray gun but still nothing like real chrome.

  24. #84
    R31 Test Pilot 31GUN's Avatar
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    What about that chrome vinyl stick on stuff that they put on show cars?
    This is serious mum!

  25. #85
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wildss View Post
    dna paints make a very decent chrome paint.
    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    Babalouie- Sure- but the aerosol is not the same as the paint you put in a gun and spray. I have seen some pretty good results with a spray gun but still nothing like real chrome.
    Yeah I've heard some good things about DNA too, but (AFAIK) only the ALSA mob makes a DIY pressure-pak kit.

    A decent chrome spray-on paint seems to look more like polished ally than chrome, but I would have been happy with that.

    Quote Originally Posted by 31GUN View Post
    What about that chrome vinyl stick on stuff that they put on show cars?
    That's an interesting idea...if you can wrap a whole Lexus LF-A in the stuff, surely a few chrome strip is doable
    Last edited by Babalouie; 02-09-12 at 10:02 AM.
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  26. #86
    R31 Test Pilot 31GUN's Avatar
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    That's what I was thinking.
    This is serious mum!

  27. #87
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Babs, where do you get those plastic bags you use to bleed the brakes?

  28. #88
    infantile egomaniac CussCuss's Avatar
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    those 3 spokes still stand out like dogs balls when this thing is moving

    very noticeable on the road among a sea of white and beige peak hour traffic.
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  29. #89
    Opens Babalouie's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beavis View Post
    Babs, where do you get those plastic bags you use to bleed the brakes?
    http://www.speedbleeder.zoovy.com/

    Quote Originally Posted by CussCuss View Post
    those 3 spokes still stand out like dogs balls when this thing is moving

    very noticeable on the road among a sea of white and beige peak hour traffic.
    Yeah, I'm driving the Luce this week, the Porka is in the garage staying clean for the Porka concours this weekend
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  30. #90
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    sell the luce to hooks

    the interior matches his eye brows
    Check out my shit for sale on facebook:
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