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Thread: Project Car: 1968 Plymouth Roadrunner build thread!

  1. #181
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    I'm not really big on the whole hidden wiring thing. Makes it to hard to find / modify stuff when I need to and its no show car. I will relocate the MSD, I rekon thats a good call. The rest of it will be wired like normal. There are plenty of holes from where the battery used to be mounted which I cant be stuffed filling. Most of it will be covered by 300kg of engine anyway.

  2. #182
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    IMNSHO there's so little wiring on non-EFI cars that I don't think hiding it is even necessary. I'd put the MSD in the cabin though, I'm planning on doing that with the Elky.

  3. #183
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Yeah good point, the only real wiring left will be to the starter motor and the headlight loom (which looks tidy anyway). I removed the heater box a few weeks back so there is about 14 square meters of firewall available inside the cab to mount shit on...

    I have ordered a bunch of dynamat and dynaliner to do the inside of the firewall with to keep all the heat out. I will then bolt everthing on top of that. Only thing is now finding something to fill the holes from the heater lines and the old bolt holes from the MSD. hmmm......

    Also does anyone know where to get a male to male adaptor for the coil wire? I am getting custom leads made up in the states, they are sending me 2 coil wires so I can plug it through the firewall. Just need the adaptor!

  4. #184
    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    MSD Firewall Feed Thru, part 8211- that what you're after?
    Quote Originally Posted by Motherfucker Jones View Post
    If you can't appreciate that then you are more narrow minded than the most mulleted, flanno, thong wearing, thong slapping, 253 owning, southern cross tatted, fuck off
    we're full stickered, VB drinking bogan you'll ever meet

  5. #185
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Spot on man! Thats the one. Thanks!

  6. #186
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    +1, I'll get one for myself!

  7. #187
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Yeah good point, the only real wiring left will be to the starter motor and the headlight loom (which looks tidy anyway). I removed the heater box a few weeks back so there is about 14 square meters of firewall available inside the cab to mount shit on...

    I have ordered a bunch of dynamat and dynaliner to do the inside of the firewall with to keep all the heat out. I will then bolt everthing on top of that. Only thing is now finding something to fill the holes from the heater lines and the old bolt holes from the MSD. hmmm......

    Also does anyone know where to get a male to male adaptor for the coil wire? I am getting custom leads made up in the states, they are sending me 2 coil wires so I can plug it through the firewall. Just need the adaptor!
    Use the same bolt holes but bolt from the other side (if there's room for the box at that point under the dash) and then dab a bit of paint over the bolt heads to help conceal them.

  8. #188
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Copy that. I will have to lower the box slightly to clear the bit inside for the windscreen wipers and shit but should be no biggie.

    In other news I finished making up the brake lines using my flash new pipe bender and non-broken double flaring tool. Came out pretty good. The Wilwood distribution block / proportioning valve combo is a sweet bit of kit. Just need to tighten and bleed everything now.


    So after all that I decided to trial fit the motor to make sure the engine mounts lined up properly. As luck would have it, it fit like a finger in a bum! Straight in, no issues. Engine mounts are top knotch and slotted right in. I could even put the bolts in by hand!
    Must be the only engine bay ever made that can make 500 cubes look small...




    Tonight I will bolt up the torque converter, tranny and starter motor and drop the whole thing in. Might have to do some fiddling with the headers to get it all to fit but looks like there is plenty of room.

  9. #189
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    I'm surprised you got it in there without crushing the MSD box, might be a different story with a trans hanging off the back though.

    Pro tip - put the windy handle (on your engine lifting thingy) at the front when you put the engine and trans in together, and get some old blankets to cover the firewall

  10. #190
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Looks great!

    I agree on the wiring thing. I like neat & presentable, but should be reachable without too much effort. Running the headlight loom down the inner guard should be easy enough.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  11. #191
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Yeah I have since pissed the MSD box off, to be mounted inside the cab (good advice). The windy handle thing is a bit sneaky, if you swing it around the other way it hits the boom of the engine hoist and you cant spin the handle. Learnt that when I will pulling an engine out....

  12. #192
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Motor is 522ci, 610 horsepower and 940-odd NM of torque, so should skid alright.... Think the tyre man is going to like me.
    The only weak link will be the diff. I am planning on driving it reasonably sedately until I save some funds for a complete 9" setup with a truetrac and 3.75 gears or something similar. I cant see the 8 3/4 lasting very long....
    910 Nm? Jeebus. I havent read all your posts but you installing chassis connectors? Reckon they might help keep your doors shut when you step on it.

    As per blownhemi, 8 3/4 is plenty strong (1/4 inch makes bugger all difference), lighter and is infact more efficient to turn and create less heat than a 9 inch due to the better gear mesh design. High performance mopars had the dana 60 but like all US chrysler drivetrains everything is built stronger than required.

    Sweet build mate best of luck.

  13. #193
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Yeah I have since pissed the MSD box off, to be mounted inside the cab (good advice). The windy handle thing is a bit sneaky, if you swing it around the other way it hits the boom of the engine hoist and you cant spin the handle. Learnt that when I will pulling an engine out....
    The trick is to NOT have the boom and engine lifter in line, that should give you enough room to swing the handle

  14. #194
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoonz View Post
    910 Nm? Jeebus. I havent read all your posts but you installing chassis connectors? Reckon they might help keep your doors shut when you step on it.

    As per blownhemi, 8 3/4 is plenty strong (1/4 inch makes bugger all difference), lighter and is infact more efficient to turn and create less heat than a 9 inch due to the better gear mesh design. High performance mopars had the dana 60 but like all US chrysler drivetrains everything is built stronger than required.

    Sweet build mate best of luck.
    Yeah mate I have a set of weld in chassis connectors all ready to go. Can't weld them in until all the drivetrain is installed and the car is all loaded up. Should get to them in the next couple of weeks! I am hoping that will stop all the torque turning the car into a pretzel...

    Interesting comments about the diff. I had assumed that to run a trutrac etc I would need to upgrade to a 9" diff. Really not sure why options I have for the standard diff, but obviously if I can make that bulletproof that would save me a heap of rooting about! Keen for any information you have!!

    In other news, the misses got me a canon 650 digital slr camera for Xmas!!! No more shit photos!! Expect some decent media to be uploaded once I get back home from holidays!!

  15. #195
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Yeah mate I have a set of weld in chassis connectors all ready to go. Can't weld them in until all the drivetrain is installed and the car is all loaded up. Should get to them in the next couple of weeks! I am hoping that will stop all the torque turning the car into a pretzel...

    Interesting comments about the diff. I had assumed that to run a trutrac etc I would need to upgrade to a 9" diff. Really not sure why options I have for the standard diff, but obviously if I can make that bulletproof that would save me a heap of rooting about! Keen for any information you have!!

    In other news, the misses got me a canon 650 digital slr camera for Xmas!!! No more shit photos!! Expect some decent media to be uploaded once I get back home from holidays!!
    As far as I am aware you can get a plethora of parts for the 8 3/4 out of the US. The only slight down side is there are not quite so many ratios but you should be able to get close the one you want, if not bang on. ARB even make an air-locker for them. If you haven't already pick up a copy of mopar-action magazine and you'll find some ads for "rear ends" and 8 3/4 parts. I've seen in this mag braced 8 3/4s and all kinds of mods. With some research you'll find a heap of gear. Afterall, the 9" in goddamn everything is an Aussie thing due to Holden's woefull standard equipment banjos. In the US lots of the GM guys run 12 bolts behind big blocks etc.

    The chassis connectors really tighten them up, they feel like a taught modern bodyshell after you them. VF & VG coupes are transformed with these fitted so I guess the RR as the darts' bigger pillarless brother will be somewhat similar.

  16. #196
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hoonz View Post
    As far as I am aware you can get a plethora of parts for the 8 3/4 out of the US. The only slight down side is there are not quite so many ratios but you should be able to get close the one you want, if not bang on. ARB even make an air-locker for them. If you haven't already pick up a copy of mopar-action magazine and you'll find some ads for "rear ends" and 8 3/4 parts. I've seen in this mag braced 8 3/4s and all kinds of mods. With some research you'll find a heap of gear. Afterall, the 9" in goddamn everything is an Aussie thing due to Holden's woefull standard equipment banjos. In the US lots of the GM guys run 12 bolts behind big blocks etc.

    The chassis connectors really tighten them up, they feel like a taught modern bodyshell after you them. VF & VG coupes are transformed with these fitted so I guess the RR as the darts' bigger pillarless brother will be somewhat similar.
    Mate good info, thanks for that. I might look into what i can get to suite the 8 3/4 then. I am thinking of running around 3.45 to 3.5 gears in the arse. Be good enough for the occasional strap down the quarter but should be good on the highway too.
    I just need to find someone in central queensland with a decent mig to weld in the connectors. They are already lazer cut to fit the floor so should be an easy enough job.

  17. #197
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Gents,

    So bit more of an update. The engine is finally installed, for real this time not pissing around. Got the headers in too! Last night I bolted up the carb and started fitting up the water pump and accessory drive, i'll get some snaps of that over the weekend once I get it all finished.

    No real issues getting the motor in. Headers were a bit of a cunt, but you get that I spose. In the end it was easier to slide them in from the bottom of the car (as per the instructions.. whodathunkit!). Have had some slight fuckaround with the torque converter to flex plate bolts.... I ordered some ARP bolts from 440 Source, however the are 5/16 size instead of the 7/16 size I need... Fuck. Cant seem to find anywhere to buy ARP 7/16 bolts with the low profile heads to suite. Ended up getting some other high tensile 7/16 bolts and doing some creative machine work with the grinder, seems to be all good. I am reading that I should loctite them too so I will go back and do that over the weekend.

    Now I am just waiting on the exhaust system to arrive from Elko and some other odds and ends for the plumbing. I am ordering a transmission cooler from summit as well as some 4AN braided line to run. I will finish dicking around with the MSD 6AL relocation, throttle cable and other blah blah over the weekend. I also have a flash new camera so I'll take some pictures that are a bit less shit!


    Hughes rocker gear, sexy...

    Motor going in... slowly....


    Some unbelievably handsome bloke here contemplating things:


    And shoop-doop-a-whoop:




    Thats all she wrote for now. Hopefully be ready to start it up in the next week or so.... Should be awesome through the headers...

  18. #198
    Registered User darwinschops's Avatar
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    Yes, it really should... Nice work mate.

  19. #199
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Rodger, so a bit more of an update today. Spent all weekend in the engine bay, bolted up the power steering, throttle linkages and a few bits and bobs. Also laid dynamat Extreme on the inside of the firewall and covered it all in Dynaliner as well. As suggested by numerous 'wise' PF cunts I have relocated the MSD and coil inside the cab, looks much cleaner! There is some orange showing through the engine bay now I will have to touch up, but no biggie.

    Other big job was to hook up the bracket for the pro ratchet and adjust the cable. Did all that with minimal fuss, had to grid a bit off the bracket to clear the TCI deep pan, but went alright. Shifts really nice and sweet!

    So, just waiting on my order from summit to arrive with plug leads, trans cooler and 15ft of AN line for the rest of the fuel line setup. Also got a pail of Lucas oil and a pail of tranny fluid arriving this week.

    This weekend, assuming everything arrives, will be motherfucking startup time. No exhaust, just nice note straight out the headers. I have half a mongrel just thinking about it.

    Few pics, some with my new camera that I still cant fuckin use.

    Oh, found one clusterfuck. Thermo fan on my PWR radiator fouls on the front of the fucking water pump pully... So i will need to make some brackets and move it to one side (the thermo that is). Again, no biggie.

    Dynamat Xtreme and the shifter installed:




    Another engine bay pic, with my 850cfm quickfuel and throttle bracket installed:


    Power steering pump installed and plumbed up:


    Carb again:



    Dynaliner all installed and ignition mounted:


    Another photo with the new camera:
    Last edited by 68RNR; 07-01-13 at 12:14 PM.

  20. #200
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Looks awesome, as usual! What did you install the Dynamat over -- just the sheetmetal? Did you bother cleaning it up first? Did it stick well?

  21. #201
    Founder Nick's Avatar
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    fuck that is cool!

  22. #202
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    I"M GLAD YOU ASKED!
    I had already ground back all of the internal sheetmetal and floor pans with a grinder and wire wheel. I then treated the rust with rust converter and painted it all with POR-15. Ended up with a nice, shiny, smooth black finish. Its bloody good stuff actually, highly recommend it if you need to treat any old sheetmetal with minor surface rust.

    The Dynamat sticks like shit to a blanket as long as its all clean. I wiped everything down with prepsol first then just stuck it down by hand and using the end of a screwdriver wrapped in a rag (for tight spots). It moulds really well and is easy to fit.
    I had previously done the floorpans with Dynamat Superlite, its about half the weight of dynamat xtreme and is about 75% of the sound deadening. I did the firewall in Xtreme as its better for heat insulation and sound.

  23. #203
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Thanks mate, big help. I'm looking to do something similar soon! Did you consider any of the cheaper alternatives like RAAM?

    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    Dynaliner all installed and ignition mounted:
    What made you decide to mount the coil inside? For some reason I thought you were going to do the MSD box inside, but leave the coil on the donk.
    Last edited by Beavis; 07-01-13 at 12:59 PM.

  24. #204
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    A mate of mine mentioned that stuff, but in the end Dynamat is pretty damn cheap out of the US. I bought all of my mat off Ebay, straight out of the states. The Xtreme matt I got came as 15 square feet, cost about $75 or so landed. I used about 2/3 of that to do the firewall. The superlite is cheaper still. I can give you the details of a good mob to deal with who seem to have the best prices.

    I went to Autobarn when I was first looking for Dynamat. They quoted me over $600 for enough matt to do my car...... FUCK THAT. I ended up doing everything for around $150.

    Food for thought. Apparently there is another new product that you can spray on, its a 2 part thing like Rhino linings or whatever. Dunno, be a bit messy I rekon!

  25. #205
    Gimme six Schlitzes Beavis's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    A mate of mine mentioned that stuff, but in the end Dynamat is pretty damn cheap out of the US. I bought all of my mat off Ebay, straight out of the states. The Xtreme matt I got came as 15 square feet, cost about $75 or so landed. I used about 2/3 of that to do the firewall. The superlite is cheaper still. I can give you the details of a good mob to deal with who seem to have the best prices.
    If you wouldn't mind letting me know your source on Dynamat that would be horse.

    Also I jumped in there with a ninja edit about the ignition box & coil if you have time..

  26. #206
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beavis View Post
    Thanks mate, big help. I'm looking to do something similar soon! Did you consider any of the cheaper alternatives like RAAM?

    What made you decide to mount the coil inside? For some reason I thought you were going to do the MSD box inside, but leave the coil on the donk.

    And as the lightbulb just came on over my head and I realise you are in the USA.... It would be even cheaper!

  27. #207
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Beavis View Post
    If you wouldn't mind letting me know your source on Dynamat that would be horse.

    Also I jumped in there with a ninja edit about the ignition box & coil if you have time..
    Oh man your forum ninja skills are making me uneasy...
    I have been buying the dynamat through a bloke called 12VoldDistributors, heres the linky: http://www.ebay.com/itm/270994762194...S:1123&vxp=mtr

    Seems like a good chap. One of the parcels got held up and wasn't showing anything on the tracking details. I emailed him and he sent out a replacement straight away. As it turned out the parcel arrived anyway, so I emailed him and he was cool about it. I ended up paying for the second lot too, so he gave me $20 off it. Anyway, good bloke.

    As for the coil I was originally going to mount it in the engine bay, but I wanted to mount it up on the intake manifold. As it turns out the single plane doesnt have a mounting point for the coil so I thought fuckit, I'll stick it in the cab too. Less wiring in the engine bay. I got a male - male fitting to go through the firewall from Summit.

  28. #208
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Nothing serious, but I installed the fuel pressure reg last night. Just waiting on my 6AN line to hook it up to the carb and fuel pump.



    Does anyone know the best way to adjust this when you are doing the first startup? I dont want to do any damage when I start it up due to lean fuel mixture or anything... I assume its not that critical unless you are up the revs so it should idle fine and allow me to adjust the reg? hmmm.....

    I have also adjusted the timing as close as I can without having the motor run. Did this by aligning the rotor with the point on the distributor with the flywheel at 10 degrees btdc. Paperwork says to time it with 10 degrees initial advance. I will fuck around with the vacuum advance once its all running.

  29. #209
    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    Electric or mech fuel pump? If electric just run it to check for leaks first and once you're good then set your pressure while the pumps still running. If Holley, set around 6-7psi or if Quadrajet, set around 4-5psi to get you running.

    Edit: Why does your gauge goto 100psi? I thought this was carbed?
    Last edited by krisr; 09-01-13 at 09:40 AM.

  30. #210
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Mate mechanical fuel pump. In reality I dont really need a fuel pressure regulator at all as the pump puts out around 6psi. I am however looking to upgrade to a race pumps mech pump which puts out 15psi and supports a million billion horsepower. Hence why I put the reg in.

    And yes I cocked up with the gauge and got the wrong one. I am new to this fuel regulator stuff. Any advice for the mech pump situation?

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