G'day
Looking to replace the brake pads in my 300zx. I honestly don't know what is in them now. I've run QFM pads in my old VT commo which where great, never got brake fade during mountain runs but noisy as fuck when doing daily duties.
I know everything has a trade off as in noise, dust or they work as well as paper jammed in your calipers.
Just interested to see what other run or had experience with.
Cheers cunts
having re-tried stock brake pads in the caddy
steer clear from hawk. it's shit. always though it was shit, but figured it might have been the car. nope. they're just shit.
hp+ or something
EDIT: just to clarify: i fried the antisqueel backplates of them in about a weeks time. re-glued them, fixed that.
but i needed snow or heavy rain to actually get into the ABS. people on the caddy forums told me i might have pretty sweet tyres. i also arrived at work with smoking brakes more than once...
they aren't. these stockers just stop the car, and they get the car in abs if i really want to.
just a tad smelly though...
Last edited by tut; 08-03-12 at 05:28 AM.
Use TRW's on my 280ZX hybridZ which has Z32 brakes on the back. Good for both circuit and road use, the best compramise pad I have found. Similar to QFM A1RM's but a bit better I think.
I also use TRWs on my gtr (run the same pad as Z32). Great street pad, noisy and dust up badly though. Havent had to use em on the track yet. I fried the old bendix ultimates in about 3 laps at winton.
Also have a set on my corolla (ta22 brakes). Had no stopping power for the 1 lap ofcwinton i did with them. I suspect i either havent bedded them in properly or i havent bedded them in at all yet
Been using Ferodo DS3000s with an RX7 caliper in my Fiat. Not a street pad, squeal, shed a lot of dust, wear the rotor a lot when cold but no complaints.
I am just converting to two piece rotors at the moment and going to a Project Mu club racer. Will be interested to see the difference.
Carbotech
1995 Mazda MX5 - 2F Race Car
1991 Mercedes 300TE
1990 Mercedes 230E
1990 BMW E30 318is
1977 Jaguar XJS V12
1971 Morris Mini 1100K
1957 Porsche 356A Speedster Replica
I like Endless SS-M. Zero dust. Zero.
Brake feel is ok at low temps/speed, and they're good-ish on the track.
Japanese Nostalgic Car - Dedicated to classic japanese cars
TRW's in the rx323 and they were shit, ... have had A1RM's before, and they will shortly replace the crap EBC Reds in the WRX
1972 RS Camaro - 385ci, 671 - For Sale
Federal Motorsport Tyres, Sparco & Alpinestars Racewear, AEROFLOW, Performance Clutches, Alcon Brakes, Project MU, Kincrome Tools, Suspension and Bushes - Visit www.racingready.com.au or follow http://www.facebook.com/racingreadyonline
A1rm.
Noisy when cold. Fucking good.
Member of PF v12 club incTM
A1rm.
Noisy when cold. Fucking good.
Member of PF v12 club incTM
Ds2500 if its a street car with occasional heavy flogging.
Endless ME20 or CCR
RB74 - Crap, high pad wear, and the binding material is prone to crumbling on the edges leaving you with half a pad to work with.
A1RM - Just didn't like the pad feel. Basically need the brake pedal to the floor to pull the car up. No confidence, so don't use them. simialr crumbling problem as the RB74.
Greenstuff - Never used them, but anything with such polar opposite reviews doesn't make me want to use them.
SSS - Good for street use, I use them in the rear brakes.
DS2500 - refer to SSS
Stock Toyota pad - Refer to SSS
HC+ - My favourite pad, can't fault them at all.
When selecting a pad select the correct heat range. Track/mountains needs 800*C minimum, road use is fine with anything up to 500*C. Check rear rotor temps in case you can get away with cooler, cheaper pads in the back.
My car
Corolla
Rorz: With their engines Harley have discovered the ultimate way to turn fuel into noise without any annoying bi-products like horsepower. Amazing really.willsy01: i'd organise for my neighbour to look after the kids whilst I go play golf/work on the car/play with nunchuks in the backyard.
I've got A1RMs on my Zed, functionally great but they tend to be a bit noisy with gentle low speed braking. Apparently it can be a but of an issue with the A1RMs on a lot of Sumitomo brake set-ups for some reason.
Been using Performance Friction 01 compound now for a while on the track car, and have noticed no fade whatsoever, significantly less rotor wear, and good consistent feel through the temperature range. Thermal paint markings on the disc show almost 500deg so they're working alright.
Compared to that, previously I was using the Bendix Race pads, and when the pads were gone so were the discs at minimum thickness with wear, so was an expensive exercise come pad change time. These also were not liking the heat range and were starting to crumble half way through the pad. So perhaps they were more suited to sprints rather than 10 lap races. All that is with the C4 caliper and 330mm rotor on a VP.
Old set up I tried was the VT twin piston on a standard VT rotor using an Endless pad, not sure what compound, but they were absolute crap when cold, worked well when hot, but I killed them with heat after 2 rounds of the sprints so generally was not impressed, but again I may have been expecting too much out of the VT braking and trying to crutch it with an expensive pad.
We have 5 brands of brake pad - each of those has roughly 7 compounds
That's 35 options that we sell, never mind the brands we don't sell.
To say "I used a xxxx pad and it was good/shit" is a bit like saying Levis are good/shit beacause they fit you or not.
I can sell a pad to you and it can be good, you tell you mate and he buys the same thing but for a different car and it is shit.
We don't sell brake pads online on purpose.
cheers
Gaz
+1 from meOriginally Posted by Gammaboy
EBC Greenstuff fell apart on me
Toyota Starlet
QR Sprint - 65.9 secs
QR Clubman - 70.2 secs
Gatton Street - 42.5 secs
Flickr - Picasa
HC+
work from cold, low dust, dont squeal (unless doing a lot of daily driving) pull up on the track like a mofo
1994 V8 SoarerI feel that rules are important as without rules there is no cheating and cheating is a vital part of drag racing.
1991 V8 Soarer The 5k project track hack
Im using Elig SB511 in my Evo at the moment, they are fucking excellent so far and very streetable for a track pad (aside from noise and dust).
I have used Hawk HP+ in my old JZA80 Supra at mallala and they never faded even after 7 consecutive hot laps (and mallala is the harshest race track on brake in the country)
I have used Wilwood BP20 in the front of my JZA70 Supra at mallala and they faded badly half way through my second hot lap. I wouldnt recommend wilwood pads.
I have some Performance Friction PFC01 here ready to go in my supra so looking forward to seeing how they go. Supposedly difficult to modulate at the limit.
List of track compounds please? Just curious.
List of track compounds please? Just curious.
Ferodo
DS2500
4003
DS3000
DS3000E
DSUno
DS1.11
DS2.11
Hawk
Blue
HT10
DTC60
DTC70
Pagid
RS4-2
RS4-4
RS5
RS19/29
RS14
RS15
PFC
93
97
01
Endless
MX72
ME20
ME22
PC35
W003
N84M
YC26A
Obviously not all shapes come in all compounds but gives you an idea of the complexity
Between our sister companies, we have all of these compounds in stock in various shapes - albeit some compounds don't get used as much as others.
cheers
Gaz
Jesus fucking titty christ. May I ask for coefficient of friction graphs over a temperature range of 0-1000 deg C?
No - get fucked!Jesus fucking titty christ. May I ask for coefficient of friction graphs over a temperature range of 0-1000 deg C?
Since the disc used for the test affects the performance, the graphs are guides at best.
cheers
Gaz
Use Remsa in the Pug. Stops good.
PF 01s are by far the best Track pad you can buy right now, work well in Hill climbs or 750hp Sportsedans.
DS2500s are not a serious track pad, get pad lift off in 3 laps at mallala, 4 at winton, PF06 pads are awesome on the E30, DS 3000s have been great in the M3
E36 M3 12.92 @ 108.64mph, N/A 3.0L
Elig SB511 or Project Mu HC +
once bought HC+, didn't fit so they're shit pads
"No new car will ever be better for the environment than an old car that already exists. Unless that old car is a left-wheel drive communist shitbox made of uranium, asbestos and luekemia", oioioioioi
"When you do things right, people won't be sure you've done anything at all", god
http://www.Tutter.net
Im using Porterfield R8s in the AE86. No fade even after 12 laps of Mallala, and works reasonably when cooler.
Chris
------
I cant get no sleep...
AE86 race car thread is finally up to date | Supposedly i have a new daily project too
I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence
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