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Thread: R/H rotor crack can anyone help?

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed40 View Post
    Ok I understand, what needs to be done? Rebuild caliper?
    it may not be the caliper like momus said but your old setup was taking the heat fine

    if it is the calipers i have no idea how to fix that these calipers are weird in the way they work in theorie it is a good idea but im not sure on how good they work


    edit also you dont need floating discs i dont think there is a ed out there with them lol hsv/vette breaks will be a good idea like i said they already run them on the saloon cars with out cracking discs
    Last edited by dynoryder; 10-06-12 at 10:59 PM.

  2. #32
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    just a question do know which is the left caliper and which is the right or did you just put them on either way ?

    looking at the top photo it seems the caliper is mounted backwards wonder if new mustangs have fron mounted racks?

    edit i just cheked the mustang uses rear mount calipers from what i can see so i dont think they could be put on wrong in terms of left to right as the bleed nipple is at the top
    Last edited by dynoryder; 10-06-12 at 11:11 PM.

  3. #33
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    The calipers have L and R on them so they only go one way. They only thing i changed was to swap over the brackets so I could move the pin from the top to the bottom.
    My car has a lot more power and is at least 200kg heavier than a saloon car which is why I was looking at floating discs if they are the best. However I'm waiting to hear back from Racebrakes to see what I need to run the Saloon car setup.

    Thanks everyone for your help!!

  4. #34
    le frenchy driver Russell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno View Post
    just a question do know which is the left caliper and which is the right or did you just put them on either way ?

    looking at the top photo it seems the caliper is mounted backwards wonder if new mustangs have fron mounted racks?

    edit i just cheked the mustang uses rear mount calipers from what i can see so i dont think they could be put on wrong in terms of left to right as the bleed nipple is at the top
    They aren't mustang calipers for a start.

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    They aren't mustang calipers for a start.
    wrong these calipers were used on mustangs

  6. #36
    le frenchy driver Russell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno View Post
    wrong these calipers were used on mustangs
    And about 11ty other cars. They're a PBR C4 (there particular ones will be from an EL GT/FBT or AU with the option box ticked) and will be running a 330mm rotor.

    Good brakes for the street but IMO not suited to the track.

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by Russell View Post
    And about 11ty other cars. They're a PBR C4 (there particular ones will be from an EL GT/FBT or AU with the option box ticked) and will be running a 330mm rotor.

    Good brakes for the street but IMO not suited to the track.
    yea i understand that they are from a coon with the tickford badge on them but they were made for mustangs just like the new corvette calipers by pbr they have many in the pbr factory used as paper wheights as they do in the bosch factory to

  8. #38
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    Thank fuck you have stopped talking about coning there Rdyno, FFS I was tempted to send the missus out for some buds and choof em down through an empty coke can.

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by Babalouie View Post
    Speaking of brake rotor cracking, I saw this a few days ago...I wonder what woulda caused something like that
    Pretty impressive with the rotor hat shearing from the mounting flange.

    Almost certainly running some really high temp rated carbon or ceramic type pads on discs that may have been modified and managed to cook fuck out of them. The big disc split probably cocked a pad in, locked, and caused the hat to fail.

  10. #40
    le frenchy driver Russell's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Rdyno View Post
    yea i understand that they are from a coon with the tickford badge on them but they were made for mustangs just like the new corvette calipers by pbr they have many in the pbr factory used as paper wheights as they do in the bosch factory to
    No they weren't.

    The C4 bit is a hint.

  11. #41
    piss taker of the piss Uncle Arthur's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ed40 View Post
    How do you warm them on the warm up lap? I thought it would be enough to go 70% and give them a bit of a workout before I get stuck into it.. It doesnt help either when your the first car out and you have faster cars a few seconds behind you, I don't like being rushed. I don't think the caliper is dragging surely I would notice that on the street with a build up of dust on the wheel?

    Stix: This setup is from an EL GT, AU TE calipers are C5 i think? They don't fit on the brackets ive got.
    That's what a warm up lap is for, to help bring the brakes, transmission etc up to operating temps. I speed up, brake, speed up and so on, this also helps put some heat into the tyres. It really pisses me off when the lead car on the warm up lap goes too slow to allow that.

    Also be wary of having too much brake cooling or cooling going to one side of the rotor only, the latter can cause cracking. Brakes are meant to be hot, for the sprints that I do I have no cooling ducting at all, just the backing plates removed.

    Has anyone mentioned brake pads? I believe that racing type pads can cause snap overheating but have no experience there myself.

  12. #42
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    Yeah thanks 260det I thought that may have been a problem so I took the ducting off for the recent track day so I can rule that out. What you said regarding warm up is pretty much how I do it but I did find a lot of the cars where going hard out straight away and they caught me pretty quick (some of them evos/gtr's which are alot faster than my car anyway).

    Same with the pads, I went from cheapo's to decent ones and still had the prob. I'm just putting it down to the brake setup itself.. good for street, thats it!

    Cheers!

  13. #43
    le frenchy driver Russell's Avatar
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    While you are looking at the calipers, the pins that lock the calipers in are prone to wear causing the caliper to move even further towards the edge of the rotor. They're an absolute prick to get a hold of too.
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  14. #44
    Registered User Momus's Avatar
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    If you are using those discs, don't go out on green ones. New ones appreciate being heat cycled a few times to stress relieve them..good race discs like AP's get this in the form of a stress relieve anneal before final grinding...

  15. #45
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    Momus, care to give a short rundown on what is meant by bellevilled? Been playing with mechanical stuff for about 30 years now, can't recall ever coming across the term before.
    Cheers, Richard

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  16. #46
    Registered User Momus's Avatar
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    Like a Belleville spring -just a fancy way to say coned really

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  17. #47
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    Racebrakes melbourne offered me some hubs and dba 5000's. Do you guys think I am better off converting to C5 calipers?

  18. #48
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    Not much better off
    You'd be better of converting to 4 piston calipers
    But since the Fords have a silly strut design its hard to make them fit easily (unless you have real GT uprights)

    Not a fan of those discs you have on it... needs more hat taper to spread the load
    Location Perth Western Australia

  19. #49
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    Dattoman I have real GT uprights..

    Do you have any ideas? Could I get a nissan 4 pot caliper to work?
    There is a 2000 cobra R kit from the US some people think would work but I haven't heard of anyone using it on a similar car to mine.
    http://www.americanmuscle.com/brembo...0-cobra-r.html

  20. #50
    Porno section Mod Greg Rust's Avatar
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    I put R33 GTR Vspec Brembo's on mine, I made adaptors for them.




    Last edited by Greg Rust; 20-06-12 at 09:51 PM.
    KEEP CALM.

  21. #51
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    Sexual!
    Would u be interested in some cash to make up some brackets?

  22. #52
    Porno section Mod Greg Rust's Avatar
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    I drew them in Solidworks, bought the 6061-T6 flat bar from Robert Cameron http://www.robertcameron.com.au/ and where I was previously working we used Waroona Machning Company for all our CNC stuff. I reckon that you could just get Robert Cameron to machine them up as they have a machine.

    I don't have Solidworks any more(job change) but the only real reason that I used that program was it was what I used for our pump parts and I wanted to FEA test it to show any issues.

    You really don't need to go to that extent but just hand sketch something up making sure you have your bolt centres correct for the fastener locations and the largest radius that you can allow for any bends.

    Happy to help where possible.
    Last edited by Greg Rust; 20-06-12 at 10:20 PM.
    KEEP CALM.

  23. #53
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    Thanks mate, appreciate it but this kit came up for sale and I had to grab it!
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...-My-ED-Falcon/

    I'd just like to thank everybody in this thread for their words of wisdom!!
    Last edited by ed40; 11-07-12 at 10:31 PM.

  24. #54
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    We've had this issue on our old mustang, not matter how expensive an off the shelf one piece rotor hat set up was we found a way for them to crack. We spent 3 years experimenting with rotor pad combo's till we almost reached a combo were the brakes were reliable, we then put some nascar willwood calipers (nothing special) and floating rotors on, makes our 3 years of testing different combinations pointless, yes you can get a one piece set up to work, but in the long run will cost you a lot more money then a 2 piece floating rotor, we haven't had the change the rotors since.
    Profi

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