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Thread: 1jz-gte + ra28 = skids

  1. #721
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Have been flat out recently and trying to get some time in on the car wherever i can.

    Last friday my ALTRA 9 package showed up
    * custom 31spline molly axles fully assembled with 1/2" screw in studs 2" long.
    * TA diff hat / girdle.
    * ARP carrier bearing studs and nuts.

    NEW vs OLD
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    OLD
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    NEW
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    My spicer/dana (genuine) 4.1:1 gears showed up from motospec.
    Pulled the diff, stripped it and took it to the engineer monday to have the truetrac and 4.1 fitted in favour of the 3.89 and full spool, also to get the carrier caps machined flat on top for the new hat to push down on.
    I was told at least a week before he could look at it but then tuesday (the next day) at lunch i got a call saying it was done and i could pick it up!! NOT EVEN MAD!
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    Spindal adaptor V1.0 fabricated
    Attachment 111680

    Made the setup so it would end up using the original washer and nut with the locking cap and split pin like the factory xt130 hub.
    Attachment 111679

    Test fitting the falcon brakes i already had over the new test territory disk (went and got myself a set of sloted dinpled upgrade territory rotors for after its all mocked up)
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    Checking fitment/ offset with the new setup.
    Pre au (el/ef 15" steel wheels look like they fit really well but they wont clear the brakes at all!! Only just clears the rotor.
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    I think it actually looks good on a bigger tyre, instead of trying to be a stance kid...i wana go fast!
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    Ended up also buying the group A VN SS brake rotors of Blingcommander so was on the hunt for some rotors to suit, and he had mentioned that he had considered some r33 rear callipers and i had just so happened to see one arive at ezy scrap that day! So down I went with some side cutters and a few tools to remove them in full wrecker spec fashion!

    $50 later...
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    Test fit over my old VN brakes (think they are only 12mm from memory? Group A is a vented 20mm disk)
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    Tomorrow night im going to try pull a front strut and do some propper measurments to design a dogbone (i was going to make it from steel buy hand but i have always been interested in new shit so i though i would throw my hat in the ring for some "CAD" and see if i cant design some and have them mad in alloy
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  2. #722
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Spent a fair bit of time on Thursday night in the shop with my mate (he was showing me the ins and outs of fusion 360) modeling up the front calliper brackets with a strut setup on the bench.

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    Send the design off to another mate with a hobby style 3d printer at home and he knocked out a test rig of my design!

    I know its probably boring AF if you have done this before but i would have liked to be there to watch the process unfold. He was nice enough to send me a ver progress pics and even a video

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    V1.0
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    Soon as im back in town after the weekend ill give it a test run and see how it goes on the strut (find out what dosent fit lol)
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  3. #723
    Registered User Justengt4's Avatar
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    Nice work mate...prototyping could get addictive 😊
    GT8
    1UZ Celica
    1.07 flat Wakefield Park

  4. #724
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Justengt4 View Post
    Nice work mate...prototyping could get addictive 😊
    Agreed! Hopefully i got it right the first time and i can just straight up get them made in alloy and move onto the rear setup!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  5. #725
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Picked up my 3d printed prototype brackets last night on my way back into town but didnt get a chance to try and test them until tonight.

    First problem, the part i estimated but didnt actually measure didnt fit... as you can see i started to file the sharp part down in the spindle before deciding the best corse of action was to attack the prototype.

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    Second problem was the estimated 8mm of spacer needed ended up being farrrr to much and ran the calliper bracket hard into the disk.

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    A few washer later (3.25mm) for each bolt to space the bracket and was almost perfect fit.
    V1.1 will have to be 4.75mm instead of 8mm in the stepped section, simple enough fix.

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    Last edited by _glenn_archer_; 21-05-19 at 12:02 AM.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  6. #726
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Nothing more frustrating than uploading pictured from your phone, that takes fuckn ages and then something has a barry and it wipes everything you have done...

    On that note.

    Butchered bracket
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    Fitted said butchered bracket with said 3.25mm washer
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    Dont mind the washers everywhere lol i didn't want to cut any bolts i didnt have to yet!
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    Was at this point when i tried to spin the disk and found that the lower and of the calliper was rubbing on the outer side of the disk

    Time to create V1.1 so back to my fusion360 program and learn how to modify my existing drawings
    #1 i ditched the stupid web that fouled in places in favour of a simple set of cylindrical legs (now 4.75mm instead of 8mm)
    #2 added another 2mm between the closest 2 bolt holes to lift the lower section of caliper away from the disk.

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    First full dry run with no magic / cardboard holding shit together but ACTUAL BOLTS so i could check steering clearances.

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    Sent off another file to get printed hopefully without any more self inflicted dramas this time!!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  7. #727
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    I wish I had the ability to do this work, really keen on a brake downgrade but itíd be u.g.l.y

    Good work!
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  8. #728
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Good work!
    Thanks mate slowly slowly! I was hoping to race in coota this weekend but ran out of bank and hours in the day

    Went to the wrecker to grab a spare 17" from under a territory instead if the normal steelie because this one i can cut the welds out of it and adjust the offset unlike the normal territory steelie

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    They ran fair into the strut when i tried to test foit them and currently sitting on about 20mm of washers.

    I haven't measured the offset properly yet but i think they are about a +35/+40? And 7.5" wide, threw on a cheep 205/40zr17 because it ends up almost the same shape and rolling diamiter as the 195/55r15 i had before.

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    The sloted and re drilled VN group A rotors showed up from blingcommander (thanks again mate) looking at possibly fitting r33 rear callipers over them as shown

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    Just be a matter of trying to work out a way of mounting them neatly as the rear backing plates that mount the factory callipers will beed to be clearanced to drip the new callipers low enough to use.

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    Got calliper bracket v1.1 printed yesterday and picked it up late last night. (Sorry for the dark picture) just need to find the time to test fit!

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Borrowing Mutherfuckers old capri wheels and all i cabsay is DAMN im in love!!! I think they look soooo good!!!

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    Unfortunately i wouldnt be able to get it to tuck this hard wothout some serious floor mods! Thats hard up in the arch on a jack but fuck it looks good!

    Next problem is weld dont do a pro star in a 17"
    But VPW sell some wheels cheep that look similar and have reasonable sizes and offsets.

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    Need to rob a bank or get a sponsorship or something lol (jks then i would be pro star beadlocks)
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  9. #729
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    I have a set of the 17x7 & 17x8 Ridler Pro Starts in Ford Pattern with tyres, only ever rolled on in the garage, open to reasonable offers

  10. #730
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    I thought vpw werenít doing the Ridlers anymore?
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  11. #731
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    I thought vpw werenít doing the Ridlers anymore?
    We were clearing out that style, as they arn't making the qty's of them any more & we have to order mass bulk to get them. Mainly keeping the other ridler styles.

  12. #732
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Why are you wanting to run such a large diameter wheel?
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  13. #733
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 1320ft View Post
    I have a set of the 17x7 & 17x8 Ridler Pro Starts in Ford Pattern with tyres, only ever rolled on in the garage, open to reasonable offers
    Will send you a PM thanks.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
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  14. #734
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido View Post
    Why are you wanting to run such a large diameter wheel?
    Because i need 17" to clear the front brakes i have been installing im sure some 16" might fit but all depends on the bulge in the centre of the wheel / tire sections.

    Still should be able to fit a 15 on the rear tho when its all done
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
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  15. #735
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Tonights efforts on "slow and steady" missed the race (coota 500m was this weekend coming and im not gonna make it)

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    Cut the original commodore brake calliper mounts off.

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    Made some weld on brackets for the new r33 brakes.

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    Even took all the sharp edges off future Glenn will appreciate that!

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    Test fit the new weld on brackets using the old backing plate bolts (i will have to make some spacers so the whole backing plate will just be held 6mm inboard and trim what i need to off to make it fit.

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    Dry run on the bench to check for calliper clearance.

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    Checking fitment On the diff before welding them together (that didnt happen tonight i still have to strip and cut down the drivers side factory mount.

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    Looks all good like its and like its going to work.
    Last edited by _glenn_archer_; 27-05-19 at 11:33 PM. Reason: 1: I cant spell 2: I don't proof... lol will have still missed heaps
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
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  16. #736
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Got around to test fitting the v1.1 brackets and they look like they will work alright.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Now time to do them properly, will try and get a price on CNC one piece in alloy but cost depending may end up 3 peices (laser/water/plasma cut base from 12mm and then turn up the two legs on the lathe from round bar and tack it all together?)

    FARK the strut and brakes are heavy together... be interesting to do a full weight comparison left to right when i finish this drivers side! Or maybe ignorance is bliss?
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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  17. #737
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Nice, donít start weighing stuff. Itís a wormhole you donít want to start down...
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  18. #738
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Things have slowed on the celica front a bit unfortunatly.
    I did however start playing with my rear callipers, split them ready for paint but first some quick machining.

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    Knocked the nissan off the back but was left with datsun lol

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    Faced the old hardline double flare to accept a banjo bolt on my setup. also knocked the brass double flare insert out of the calliper half, drilled and tapped the rest of the way through to make up for the material i was taking off by facing it.

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    My new (second hand) 17" wheels showed up thanks to 1320ft, cheers buddy! (Sitting next to a genuine 15" pro star)

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    Quick test fit to see if the new brakes fit in the new wheels.

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    Plenty of room! Might even be able to fit a 16" rim with the right shape step in the centre.

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    Found a machine shop locally that will make my caliper brackets for $100 a side, they said all the hard work was done with me making the CAD file and it was a very simple shape as far as machining is concerned.
    Last edited by _glenn_archer_; 12-06-19 at 11:44 PM.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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    200B wagon
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  19. #739
    Registered User Ke26 Wagon's Avatar
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    Well done!!!

    Also don't do 16' wheels, tires are a cunt to get compared to 17''

  20. #740
    Registered User SR20 KE30's Avatar
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    There is one advantage in 16", it's the only way to get a 26" 255 drag radial, for a small car could be handy.

  21. #741
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SR20 KE30 View Post
    There is one advantage in 16", it's the only way to get a 26" 255 drag radial, for a small car could be handy.
    Only the fronts need to be bigger i can still run a 15" wheel over the VN group A brakes with skyline r33 calipers on the rear so the normal 255/60r15 is the aim for the rear at some point but i will defiantly need to mini tub and mod the fuel tank before i can fit them as a 235/60r15 MT is a tight fit!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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  22. #742
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Rear brakes almost sorted,
    ē sand blasted the surface rust off the new old disks + painted the hats in calliper black.
    ē rebuilt calipers (fuckn rebuild kit didnt come with channel seals for between the two halves!) + painted black.

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    They are a VERY tight fit over the disks (caliper body, the pads are a few mm away on both sides) r33 18mm new and the group A brakes are 20mm.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Re-used my braded lines but now the banjo is 90* from the original location of the commy caliper, had to grind down one point of the hex so suit the funny backing plate but easy fix.

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    Also went to town and clearanced the shit out of the backing plate so i could easily get the caliper on and off without a fight.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Need to get some new brake pads so suit EBC Reds i think i put in the front before felt good might go same for the rear? Otherwise maybe just some cheep QFMs to get me started and rolling again.

    Diff should go back in tomorrow night fingers crossed ill get some time to do it.
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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    200B wagon
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  23. #743
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    Yeah the channel seals catch most people out - funny thing is even alot of genuine caliper kits dont come with them either......A bit stupid if you ask me

  24. #744
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Didnt get the diff tonight the daily driver atm is no-pix WM crap-price and it decided to have no oil pressure (or fuck all!) on stone cold startup this morning... the oil warning on the dash comes up at 30kpa (4.35psi) and it was on! The 6L L98 Engine sounded like a bag of marbles so it wasnt just a comon sensor failure... FML

    So tonight was spent pulling the sump off in the hopes of a super simple fix (some models had an extra oil pressure bypass in the sump comon to fail) this one apparently however, did not. Again FML.

    I decided to tap in a mechanical gauge (even tho the engine sounded like it didnt have any / much oil pressure just to be double double sure i smashed the sump pack on and put some 15w40 oil in (instead of the 5w30 its always had) data logged the start up and watched the mechanical gauge both showing it took ages to get ANY oil pressure then struggled to make 20psi at idle cold... i would have expected over 50/60psi cold with thicker oil.

    Looks like i might have to throw an oil pump at it next in the hope it hasnt just had a massive cam bearing failure or something (as they do)

    One day ill get the celica driving again, everything seems to be fighting me at the moment tho! Lol
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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  25. #745
    Registered User Ke26 Wagon's Avatar
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    did you check the o-ring seal on the pick up? common failure point on a LS

  26. #746
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ke26 Wagon View Post
    did you check the o-ring seal on the pick up? common failure point on a LS
    Didnt but i will tomorrow night when i pull it apart again tomorrow night.

    Thanks mate!
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
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  27. #747
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Ended up over filling the sump on the WM caprice and parking it on the steep ass workshop driveway nose down to see if it was the oring on the oil pump pickup as justin said was common, didn't fix it (still only had like 8psi cold) so i ordered a genuine oil pump for it, when i was pulling it apart however the pickup tube just about fell out of the oil pump so good chance it was part of the problem but after i inspected the pump gears i decided to replace it anyway - problem solved 45-50psi at like 800rpm.

    Now back to my shitbox! Put the diff back in this arvo

    Fully expected to have to remake my tow bar setup so i decided to test fit the diff without springs to test the clearance from the new diff hat to the tow bar.

    More good luck than good measurment, this is no spring and sitting on bump stops.

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    Winning, less work for me!

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    Next was fo test fit motherfucker jones old pro stars, they fit alright but will need more positive offset buy maybe 15mm more? i think they are an 8" with 4.5" backspace.

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    No springs again showed they will scrub the guards with about 5mm+ clearance between bumpstop and diff.

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    Showing the clearance to the inner guard on the rear. I always get confused when they talk backspacing in " so i assume if they where a 4.5" backspace and i want to go inboard another 15 or so mm i would need more like a 4.25" or 4" backspace?

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    Now i need to make an adjustable panhard rod if anyone can point me in the right direction for a left and right hand threaded rod with a hex in the middle, tube adaptors and locking nuts somewhere (some molly tube would be great also) i would appreciate it
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

  28. #748
    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by _glenn_archer_ View Post
    Now i need to make an adjustable panhard rod if anyone can point me in the right direction for a left and right hand threaded rod with a hex in the middle, tube adaptors and locking nuts somewhere (some molly tube would be great also) i would appreciate it
    Try Andrews Race Cars in Seven Hills, Sydney. Last time I was down there he had fuckloads of Moly tube on racks, LH & RH tube adapters and LH/RH rod ends if you wanted to mount it that way. He reckons he ships everywhere so if you get stuck, try him. I want to remake my diff arms and he's the only local cunt that could sort me out with all of the material.
    Quote Originally Posted by Motherfucker Jones View Post
    If you can't appreciate that then you are more narrow minded than the most mulleted, flanno, thong wearing, thong slapping, 253 owning, southern cross tatted, fuck off
    we're full stickered, VB drinking bogan you'll ever meet

  29. #749
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Yeah, Rod Andrews will have everything you need and will supply only the amount of CM you need
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  30. #750
    Registered User _glenn_archer_'s Avatar
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    Sep 2013
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    canberra
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    Thanks guys all sorted now
    1JZ RA28 (yoshi) the toymotor sillycar
    http://performanceforums.com/forums/...gte-ra28-skids
    200B wagon
    LOW AND SLOW STOCKER

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