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Thread: Microsquirt - Super Tight Budget EFI - Datsun L20B- Anyone got experience?

  1. #61
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    A mate of mine around the corner. Has a big bridgeport style mill and a rotary table.

  2. #62
    Registered User trb012's Avatar
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    Hey mate sorry I didn't get back to you with pics but that's exactly how I did my crank trigger wheel as well with the l20b pully. What crank sensor are you using? I found that with the gt101 im using having a 36-1 trigger wheel made the tooth gap too close for the sensor to pickup so had to go to a 12-1 configuration.

  3. #63
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    I have a subaru sensor that JZK25 gave us, I think it will be too wide like your issue.. We are going to get a EL/AU falcon sensor I think.

  4. #64
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    The sensor may be wide but it still has a small central probe point for the iron core that picks up the tooth. The outer part is the winding that creates the voltage.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

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  5. #65
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    I will bench test I think

  6. #66
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    I would stick to some of the small car ford sensors. if you have a lathe and drill press and a file, I can show you how to lay out a trigger wheel for any number of teeth and how to correct the teeth to under half a degreen error.

  7. #67
    Registered User trb012's Avatar
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    Yeah my issue with the 101 was it need's a minimum 10mm gap between each tooth I was lucky to have 5 with the 36-1 setup. Its 24-1 now too not 12 like I wrote above lol the falcon abs sensors are a lot smaller.

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by Xnke View Post
    I would stick to some of the small car ford sensors. if you have a lathe and drill press and a file, I can show you how to lay out a trigger wheel for any number of teeth and how to correct the teeth to under half a degreen error.
    A close mate has who is retired mill with a rotary table. Simples.

  9. #69
    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    I run the falcon VR sensor (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-AU-...5e3e41f&_uhb=1) with a custom 36-1 wheel on my Pontiac balancer triggering an MS3 - no issues at all and was a piece of piss to setup the MS. I originally setup the Tooth #1 Angle to be 10°BTDC (sensor was pointed at the next tooth from the missing tooth when crank @ #1 TDC firing) and then for shits/giggles clocked the wheel 90° as it bolts to the balancer with 4 bolts and changed the offset to from 10° to 100° and it still ran fine. With 10° or 100° tooth angle, I found my timing was 4° out from commanded advance with a timing light which was an easy fix. When using toothed wheels and MS, to getting the tooth angle perfect to the balancer timing mark, you just setup the MS for fixed timing at say 20° so it ignores the ignition table (timing tape or markings every 10° on the balancer works great here), check where the timing is on the balancer and move the tooth #1 angle accordingly to compensate. It's easy shit so I wouldn't worry too much about indexing the wheel perfectly.

    Just make sure your trigger edge is correct and the VR sensor cable is twin core shielded with the shield terminated at the MS end of the loom only etc... Clean wiring and grounds are paramount to MS's.

  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by krisr View Post
    I run the falcon VR sensor (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/EF-EL-AU-...5e3e41f&_uhb=1) with a custom 36-1 wheel on my Pontiac balancer triggering an MS3 - no issues at all and was a piece of piss to setup the MS. I originally setup the Tooth #1 Angle to be 10°BTDC (sensor was pointed at the next tooth from the missing tooth when crank @ #1 TDC firing) and then for shits/giggles clocked the wheel 90° as it bolts to the balancer with 4 bolts and changed the offset to from 10° to 100° and it still ran fine. With 10° or 100° tooth angle, I found my timing was 4° out from commanded advance with a timing light which was an easy fix. When using toothed wheels and MS, to getting the tooth angle perfect to the balancer timing mark, you just setup the MS for fixed timing at say 20° so it ignores the ignition table (timing tape or markings every 10° on the balancer works great here), check where the timing is on the balancer and move the tooth #1 angle accordingly to compensate. It's easy shit so I wouldn't worry too much about indexing the wheel perfectly.

    Just make sure your trigger edge is correct and the VR sensor cable is twin core shielded with the shield terminated at the MS end of the loom only etc... Clean wiring and grounds are paramount to MS's.

    Cheers mate,
    That is the sensor I have in mind. All the wiring is the wiring supplied for the Microsquirt. I've basically finished the loom, just need the crank sensor and connector to complete it. Waiting for the manifold and once it is ready final assembly can begin.

  11. #71
    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    When I was looking for the connector I could never find one so flogged one from an AU at the wrecker with about 12" of wire..... Now I find this - http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/New-OEM-Q...112478c&_uhb=1

  12. #72
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    Small update, no pics.

    We and saw the inlet manifold after final mock up. The old bloke has done an awesome job as usual! He's putting on a vacuum bar across all cylinders instead of using the baked-bean can.

    ECU, fuse + relay panel is all done, and mounted in the car. Just need to feed it IGN 12v+ and hookup tacho etc. Wiring for the engine bay is 75% done, just need to terminate a few things..

    The AU falcon crank sensor arrived, it looks much more suitable for our application. The brother is making a bracket to mount it at the moment. So with a bit of luck in a few weeks this thing might be running...

    Fingers cross the el-cheapo shit ECU works!

  13. #73
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    So the manifold is all done. It twisted a little when he did the final braising of the vacuum bar across the top. He had to mill it again and re-jig it. The old bloke was none-too-impressed.

    We have now mocked up the air filter. The top hat started life as a 10mm piece of alloy, and he milled a 6mm recess into the underside to give it a lip to locate the outside edge of the air filter. the bolts are in place to hold the inside of the filter where it needs to be. It needs some more drilling and tapping etc.




    My brother made a bracket to hold some LS1 coils in place and Scott @ Cleveland Exhaust welded it in place for us. Thanks Scott!! The leads are just stock length LS1 leads ($25 for 8x)




    While the old bloke had the head, he CC'd the combustion chambers for me. 42cc . So with that news it means we now know the compression ratio up around 11-11.5:1.

    Our headgasket and some other parts are in transit. Once they arrive it can start to be assembled.

    The throttles sit quite high now compared to DCOE's, the air filter only just clears the bonnet. With that in mind, I am looking at getting it running with a return less type fuel system. I don't have the extra parts I need to make it a return system.

    My brother has been ticking off his jobs one by one on the car. The fuel pump (a used spare 044 copy I donated) has been plumbed into the existing fuel system. The tank pickup being used is the old fuel drain bung with a banjo bolt fitted. A high flow, low pressure glass filter is between the pickup and pump to keep an eye on tank crud. He found a brake vacuum tank from a hilux at the wreckers and that is now installed instead of the JB-weld dennis tin-can.

    lots happening!
    Last edited by tim510; 29-07-14 at 11:51 AM.

  14. #74
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Is that a CC and soda?
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  15. #75
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    Looks good

    coil bracket and tight arse leads also came up mint

  16. #76
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Coils look mint!
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  17. #77
    Formerly a stupid_cunt fly510's Avatar
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    so when do these L-series EFI conversion kits go into production tim
    RB26......................Again

  18. #78
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    I'd really like to look at getting this manifold copied/cast. Put it on the long list of other shit I'd like to do and never will!

  19. #79
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    Mocked up on the car. Manifold painted. The velocity stacks are OEM suzuki. They firmly hold the backing plate for the air filter in place.


  20. #80
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Look good dude.

  21. #81
    Registered User that_guy's Avatar
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    how much air gap do you have between the tops of the stacks and the lid of you filter housing?

  22. #82
    Littering and....?
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    I'd be interested in a kit Tim.

  23. #83
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    Thanks guys. Good fun seeing it come together.

    From the top of the trumpet to the lid of the air box is about 40mm. Rule of thumb is supposed to be a Min 50mm.

  24. #84
    New Zealand bro Dave's Avatar
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    Is cool project, like.
    Quote Originally Posted by Turbo Yoda
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  25. #85
    Registered User smithbro's Avatar
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    Awesome progress Tim. I want to do this to a 6 cyl datto motor one day, when I finally get the shits with turbos.

  26. #86
    Registered User 260BC's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tim510 View Post
    Thanks guys. Good fun seeing it come together.

    From the top of the trumpet to the lid of the air box is about 40mm. Rule of thumb is supposed to be a Min 50mm.
    44mm should be OK, with those trumpets a lot of the air flow comes from the sides. Good work as usual.
    Richard's DatsunZ lappin LakesidZ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=47OSh...&feature=g-upl

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  27. #87
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    So work presses on. Fuel system is now complete. We are running it as a dead-head / returnless for now. He has mounted the run and finalised everything.

    The cylinder head is back on. We had a slight disaster when fitting the cam pulley back in place, the lower tensioner popped out and the timing cover had to be removed. This allowed us to dial in the cam and cylinder head spot on and all our marks lined up perfectly. The timing case is all back on again.

    Crank trigger has been mounted. We made a bracket from some alloy plate and some posts from some alloy tube. It sits back around 1mm from the crank pulley.

    Amongst lots of things, I donated to the project my old WB02. Techedge 2C0. We welded in the bung for the sensor into the lower section of the extractors and they have been wrapped to keep engine bay heat down. They are now installed and bolted up.

    Wiring for the inlet manifold, coils, water, air sensors, is all done. Just need to terminate the wiring for the crank trigger.






  28. #88
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Awesome. Pics of the car or is it on here somewhere?
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  29. #89
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    Click image for larger version. 

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  30. #90
    Registered User smithbro's Avatar
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    Engine bay is coming up mint. Are you using socks on the throttles?

    What sort of power are you thinking this setup will make?

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