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Thread: long term econ tests: aftermarket coils and other stuff

  1. #1
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    long term econ tests: aftermarket coils and other stuff

    From the 1st day of owning me BA XR6 ute(if you haven't read my other posts), i've been doing fuel economy tests while slowly reconning relevant parts.

    I'm very consistent with my driving style, i keep to or go under the speed limit, though go as hard as i can in the corners.
    I drive in the same areas which covers the whole range of conditions, 60-100K limits, long flat straights to tight windy hills.
    When i do go for a jolly good thrash every now and then, i refill the tank after and reset the trip meters so the testing remains as accurate as possible.
    My consistency is greatly aided by using the cruise control. Perhaps 95% or more of my driving in done that way. Even speeding up is done with cruise.
    Engine runs way more economical under it's control. So it's only when taking off, overtaking, and thrash runs am i not using it.

    Had the ute for just over a year, and me average is 24mpg \ 8.5 kpl. That's 11.3L\100Ks
    I'll be keeping the engine stock as i have no interest in high speeds or burn outs, so all this testing is to tweak the car for economy.
    Lifestyle and budget reasons, i could not afford $80-100 a week in fuel, nor would i want to,
    and in my 'retired from the mainstream' life, i refill a tank every 2-3 weeks, 4 if i'm busy at home, so these tests will take a long time to conduct.

    Over the course of the year, i've installed a K&N filter, a petrol filter, new platinum plugs and a genergal ecu diagnostic.
    18ins are set at 42psi, new OEM shocks all round and slightly stiffer springs.

    Thing is, whenever i improved or replaced something, economy either stayed the same or got a tad worse.
    These last couple of months i've slowly gone up to 11.8L\100K.
    Then recently i noticed a slight surging at 60Ks and slight sluggishness up steep hills, resulting in 13.4L\100Ks these last couple of weeks.

    Did some research and the finger was pointing to dying coils.
    Mech did resistence test, all coils the same but down 25-30% from factory specs.

    Was not about to waste a shitload of $$ buying overpriced genuine ford parts,
    so google researched and Ebayed, and came up with 4 brands of aftermarket coils to try.
    GOSS @ kody_parts - $125 - 2 yr\40 thou warranty
    Drifter Coils @ Autotrad - $205 2yr\100 thou warranty
    Yellow Jackets @ performance wise - $310 2yr warranty
    Weapon X coils @ Taipan motorsport
    - $465( unsure of postage cost) 2yr warranty

    Research suggests most folks buy HP coils who have bombed motors and are not installing them for increased economy,
    they are after increased performance or consistent glitch free running at higher revs.

    Had some msg chats with the nice blokes at kody parts and autotrad about any benefits to economy on stock engines with HP coils.
    Plus reading reviews and forum threads, and i decided the only way to find out is try them.

    GOSS put out 20Kv
    Yellow Jackets 33Kv
    Autotrad Drifters 40Kv
    and Weapon X a whopping 80Kv

    Decided to do the same thing i've done with me suspension, and bought a set of GOSS OEM spec coils,
    as a base platform to compare against the HP coils and the claims they improve performance and econonmy.

    Had to do 2 tanks of econ testing before installing due to doing my first ever ECU reset, me ute ran better.
    But finally, the GOSS coils went in saturday and it's already proved the original coils were slowly fucking up.
    Can't do any readings till at least one tank of fuel, so it will be a while before i find out if i can get better than 24 mpg,
    or at least get back to how the ute was running when i first got it.

    That is to say, me ute was running at 13.4L\100Ks before GOSS install, but was consistent 11.3s for half of year,
    therefore i am expecting econ to at least go back to 11.3, but maybe better as original coils may have been dying since i got ute.
    Engine is just coming up to 200 thou, and some say coils need replacing every 100 thou.

    But still got a shitload of car stuff to attend to so maybe before the end of the week i'll know.
    Last edited by Jay17; 14-12-15 at 06:08 PM. Reason: typos
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  2. #2
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Interesting work dude, GJ.

    What are new coils worth?

    Also, things like air filter, fuel filter will not increase fuel econ. The airfilter being a restriction just means you use slightly more throttle to drive the same speed. The restriction of your engine while driving around is your throttle plate. Exhaust is not the same of course, but on cruise there is so little pressure it is also negligible.
    Jason Broadhurst

    Someone once asked me if they could use my mower. I said "sure, so long as it doesn't leave my yard"

  3. #3
    Compulsive modifier awdmoke's Avatar
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    Have you tried taking out the full sized spare tyre?
    Lots of minis & mokes including a G13b powered Sports Sedan, a couple of Swift Gtis, a Goggomobil, Porsche 928S, Polo Gti, BMW 540i, a WRX and a few others.

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    Registered User Fraud's Avatar
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    Very well written up. Probably won't interest everyone here bit that's not important really.

    Since its an xr6 (assuming not turbo?), it will have the 3.45 diff, the 3.27 from an XL/xls will drop the revs at highway cruise, but whether that is significant is another issue.

    In my bf2 xls I always wondered what I could do to improve economy. Premium did help if I ran it consistently, but it didn't pay for itself.

    Then there is the whole tonneau cover vs. No cover thing, but the best highway run I ever had was 8.2L/100k with the tray full of furniture and boxes with the tonneau awkwardly stretched over it with shit sticking up everywhere on a 550km trip from the snowy mountains to Sydney... The same trip another time with an empty tray was 8.6 but can't remember if I had the cover on or not

    In case you're tempted to try the pulse and glide thing, yes it kinda works but you really have to commit, and the savings probably don't make up for the carsick wife, or looking like a tremendous knob, or feeling like a tremendous knob. Also, if you actually kick it into neutral while doing it, eventually you get a check engine light. So probably don't do that. Leaving it in gear on an abandoned stretch of highway in the car by yourself it is a fun experiment though, depending on your definition of fun...

  5. #5
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Fuels cheap, just fill the cunt up when it gets empty and stress less.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  6. #6
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jason Broadhurst View Post
    Interesting work dude, GJ.

    What are new coils worth?

    Also, things like air filter, fuel filter will not increase fuel econ. The airfilter being a restriction just means you use slightly more throttle to drive the same speed. The restriction of your engine while driving around is your throttle plate. Exhaust is not the same of course, but on cruise there is so little pressure it is also negligible.
    Cheers.
    New Genuines on Ebay are $250 - only 1yr warranty.

    Yep, i know some parts do not increase economy, and figured others may or may not, many different opinions around for some parts.
    I'm just listing all things i've replaced or upgraded that has to do with engine performance.
    Goal is to bring engine system back to as new as possible while continuing testing, one item at a time and see if there's any changes.
    Can't do accurate testing if i still have other elements possibly playing up or change multiple things at same time.

    Though there will always be a small margin for error, like different quality of fuel each tank, weather\temp changes,
    impossible to be 100% consistent with driving situations each day, bowsers may lose accuracy over a few months, shit like that.
    So long term testing will sort out those minor fluctuations, give or take 1-2%.

    EG. I've just hit 250K since the Gossies were installed, i have included about 20% of minor hooning 'cus i was testing power as well,
    Started off at 13.3ish due to short amount of Ks, but quickly dropped to 12.3 due to no more hooning. ~Hulk sad~
    The more Ks i do the numbers will keep dropping, so i reckon many Ks are required to be more accurate.

    Once i've reached maximum efficiency with the Gossies, i'll do another 5000Ks or several tanks(haven't determined that yet),
    then do a service, clean the K&N, reset ecu and whack in the next set of coils, and do another 5000Ks\long run.

    The Autotrad bloke did alert me to their coils require specifc tuning otherwise no benefit will occur,
    so i will be taking that into account when i do a dyno test and ecu tune with the Gossies, that way i can get an accurate comparison.

    Will adjust test parameters as or if new info becomes available within the testing.

    Jezus...i sometimes wish i had me a woman. All this nerdy techno car stuff must really turn the chicks off.
    'Tis a good thing i got green mags and a loud exhaust system otherwise they would never talk to me.
    But as soon as i start excitedly ranting about this wonderful stuff,
    i see their eyes glaze over and they stop thrusting out their chests and they stop flicking or playing with their hair.
    ~howls of laughter~
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  7. #7
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by awdmoke View Post
    Have you tried taking out the full sized spare tyre?
    No, but i have turned it off and on again multiple times.
    Spare tyre is not an issue 'cus while i'm currently running new oem spec suspension, i will be shovin' 20-40 kilos of sand bags at the back of the tub
    to keep the rear from bouncing around.
    The extra weight will be a permanent fixture for the rear suspension, till i upgrade early next year after quotes and advice\research is done.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  8. #8
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    My boss has 20 years experience on ford engines we use ford coils. I can pick dead coils easy you load the car up with foot flat at low revs if you hear one miss replace the lot.

  9. #9
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    Very well written up. Probably won't interest everyone here bit that's not important really.
    Cheers. Yep, a decent amount of folks over the years have not appreciated my devotion to indepth and intricate examination and testing of things they really don't give a fuck about,
    but i enjoy the process, and i have gained benefits from my efforts over the years.
    I may not obtain any or anything significant with this run, but i won't know till the work is done.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    Since its an xr6 (assuming not turbo?), it will have the 3.45 diff, the 3.27 from an XL/xls will drop the revs at highway cruise, but whether that is significant is another issue.
    In my bf2 xls I always wondered what I could do to improve economy. Premium did help if I ran it consistently, but it didn't pay for itself.
    Ahh yes, thanks for that, totally forgot about diff ratios. Will see about getting the lowest one next year.
    I have noticed me ute, yep, non turbo, is more economcal at speeds over 80kph regardless if i do 80 or 110, and is worst at 60.
    Retune of ecu would sort that i think. Some indepth tech chatting with dyno guy early next year.

    Yeah, premium $0.10 a litre difference is a bit steep to justify using it. Did 2 tanks worth earlier in the year and no difference.
    But coils were constantly degrading, so test was void.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    Then there is the whole tonneau cover vs. No cover thing, but the best highway run I ever had was 8.2L/100k with the tray full of furniture and boxes with the tonneau awkwardly stretched over it with shit sticking up everywhere on a 550km trip from the snowy mountains to Sydney... The same trip another time with an empty tray was 8.6 but can't remember if I had the cover on or not
    Yep, i notice significant econ difference in strong headwind, especially if both windows are down.
    But i'm testing and fine tuning motor so all i gotta do is keep body parameters the same. Rare for me to not have tonneau cover on.

    There's so many things one can do to increase econ, where do i draw the line.
    It's a good thing i don't have OCD, though as mentioned earlier, some folks are convinced i am a bit crazy, embarking on such projects...barking mad!

    But i like these ways of seeing it...
    "It requires a very unusual mind to undertake the analysis of the obvious." - Alfred North Whitehead

    "Leave no stone unturned." - Euripides

    "The person who can combine frames of reference and draw connections between ostensibly unrelated points of view
    is likely to be the one who makes the creative breakthrough." - Denise Shekerjian

    And i do have a line and am not looking for 100% econ perfection, just currently deeply curious about engines combined with all this electronic tech stuff.
    The intial reason for this long term testing adventure is the different types of aftermarket coil claims, plus i just enjoy tweaking machines and with me ute, the goal is econ.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    In case you're tempted to try the pulse and glide thing, yes it kinda works but you really have to commit, and the savings probably don't make up for the carsick wife, or looking like a tremendous knob, or feeling like a tremendous knob. Also, if you actually kick it into neutral while doing it, eventually you get a check engine light. So probably don't do that.
    Haha, that seems to me to be heading towards OCD territory, i used to do this when i first started driving. Trying literally to save every drop in every second while driving, Mad Max II style when he was soaking up the small amount of fuel with a dirty rag after the off-roader overturned when he was checkin' out the abandoned semi. Of course he was not OCD, there was just a huge fucking fuel shortage in the apocalyptic future.

    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    Leaving it in gear on an abandoned stretch of highway in the car by yourself it is a fun experiment though, depending on your definition of fun...
    Please clarify as i have no idea what you mean here.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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    Don't change the diff the diff is set up for the gearbox there is three available in the XR6.

    If you really are interested in fuel saving sell your ute and buy a FG ecolpi 6 speed auto ute.

  11. #11
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    Fuels cheap, just fill the cunt up when it gets empty and stress less.
    Compared to $0.17 \litre back in the erly 80's, current fuel prices are not cheap.
    Average inflation rate for last 35 years was approx 4-5%
    A tank of fuel for me ute back then woulda been approx $13...inflation calculator sets it today at $51, yet a tank is actually $97.
    Nope, fuel is expensive.

    But fuel prices are not my reason for the econ testing.
    And am not in the least bit stressed...imma actually looking forward to the long term experience.

    If i was stressed about fuel prices i would not go through half a tank in 2 hours havin' a blast on the run to St.Helens and back.
    Jezus that's a nice stretch of road. Definately need upgraded suspension and a 6speed box though.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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    Registered User RB30-POWER's Avatar
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    In relation to the diff when I swapped my 3.07 to 3.46 I improved my around town mileage, but highway mileage suffered, because the car could lock the torque converter from 50km/h in 4th instead of 70km/h that's where the major gain came from, but on the highway the increase revs at higher speeds, makes the car suffer, if you stuck at 90km/h and kept revs under 2k rpm you might do ok, but put her on 120 or so on the cruise and it revs 2500rpm or so.

    I would say a gain of up to 1l/100 around town and a loss of 1l/100 on the highway

    That is in my old commodore with 4l60e 4 speed.

    I guess the advantage of new 6+ speed automatic cars that they lock the torque converter in more/lower gears and is a big advantage and you still get the low freeway speed rpms as well.

  13. #13
    Registered Fatman Dark Orange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay17 View Post
    Compared to $0.17 \litre back in the erly 80's, current fuel prices are not cheap.

    When compared to what you get for your money, petrol *is* cheap.

    Imagine you have run out of fuel 10km from a servo. Stop and think about how much energy you would spend pushing your car the whole distance. All of that energy you expended could be accomplished by $1.50 worth of petrol, which is under half the cost of a bottle of water.


    Having said that, I approve of your testing methods and what you are doing.
    Is it crazy how saying sentences backwards creates backwards sentences saying how crazy it is?

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    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay17 View Post
    Compared to $0.17 \litre back in the erly 80's, current fuel prices are not cheap.
    Average inflation rate for last 35 years was approx 4-5%
    A tank of fuel for me ute back then woulda been approx $13...inflation calculator sets it today at $51, yet a tank is actually $97.
    Nope, fuel is expensive.
    In 1986 fuel was around 50c/L according to the Queensland government, average national wage was around $450

    Average wage 29 years later is around $1150, so all things considered, 50c a liter back in '86 is $1.27 a litre in today's money;
    ULP has ranged from $1.20L to $1.40L in 2015 so its about as cheap as it was back in the day.....

    rose tinted glasses
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

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    I once told my mate when he gives his skyline a boot full he's using more power then the street his mind was blown when I added up all the power we were using in the house.

  16. #16
    Registered Fatman Dark Orange's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    In 1986 fuel was around 50c/L according to the Queensland government, average national wage was around $450

    Average wage 29 years later is around $1150, so all things considered, 50c a liter back in '86 is $1.27 a litre in today's money;
    ULP has ranged from $1.20L to $1.40L in 2015 so its about as cheap as it was back in the day.....

    rose tinted glasses
    You actually have to go back to 1977 before you got fuel under 18c/L
    Is it crazy how saying sentences backwards creates backwards sentences saying how crazy it is?

  17. #17
    GOTCHYADICKINAGIN Hjtonner's Avatar
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    198k on my ba xt no pics sedan. Unsure if the plugs have ever been done. Mate from bpt motor sport did a 15 min tune and now it's down to 8l highway driving at 115kmh. Round town nopics gets 15l. Will be doing plugs coils and oxy sensor soon then more lean cruise. Also hauls ass for a bog stocker pos

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  18. #18
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vagina View Post
    Don't change the diff the diff is set up for the gearbox there is three available in the XR6.

    If you really are interested in fuel saving sell your ute and buy a FG ecolpi 6 speed auto ute.
    The other day while masturbating over my copy of the BA workshop manual i came across the same info. <--see what i did there. 'masturbate' - 'came'

    Anyways, i read there are 3 versions of the 6speed boxs. having to do with i6, 6T and V8.
    Would appreciate some technical info Vagina, because back in the day when one of the most awesomest things you could do was whack a celica 5speed box into your holden or ford, no one had any issues with compatibility between different box gearing and diff ratios. You just drooled over a 5speed and lower diff ratio and went and did it, no probs.

    What issues will result if i stick in a 6speed and low ratio diff?

    Yes i really am interested in better econ, but i am also really interested in doing this with me ute.
    Multiple interests combined, not just econ. If my only interest was econ i woulda bought a 4cyl buzzbox onLP
    Would not own an auto either. Jezus, hooning\sports driving in an auto...where's the fukn enjoyment in that!
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  19. #19
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RB30-POWER View Post
    In relation to the diff when I swapped my 3.07 to 3.46 I improved my around town mileage, but highway mileage suffered, because the car could lock the torque converter from 50km/h in 4th instead of 70km/h that's where the major gain came from, but on the highway the increase revs at higher speeds, makes the car suffer, if you stuck at 90km/h and kept revs under 2k rpm you might do ok, but put her on 120 or so on the cruise and it revs 2500rpm or so.

    I would say a gain of up to 1l/100 around town and a loss of 1l/100 on the highway

    That is in my old commodore with 4l60e 4 speed.

    I guess the advantage of new 6+ speed automatic cars that they lock the torque converter in more/lower gears and is a big advantage and you still get the low freeway speed rpms as well.
    I imagine the new autos would also be sending a ton of data back to the ECU, thus serious issues could result from improper or mismatched conversions, depending on how the ECU works and if it's reprogrammable or not.
    And i imagine today's autos when driven sedately would be more economical than manuals.

    Hey, seeing as you're the 2nd person to talk about autos...are more people today running autos than manuals?
    And if so, please, guyn n girls, no more auto talk as imma dedicated manual bloke, thus autos will not be part of the econ equations.
    Last edited by Jay17; 21-12-15 at 02:04 PM.
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  20. #20
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Orange View Post
    When compared to what you get for your money, petrol *is* cheap.

    Imagine you have run out of fuel 10km from a servo. Stop and think about how much energy you would spend pushing your car the whole distance. All of that energy you expended could be accomplished by $1.50 worth of petrol, which is under half the cost of a bottle of water.


    Having said that, I approve of your testing methods and what you are doing.
    Cheers.

    Haha, i like your thinking processes...so, joining in, the more car pushing i had to do, thus i would become stronger, fitter, healthier and i would save on gym membership,
    would maybe give up smokes, beer and junk food as i became aware of how much better life was being healthier, would spend less on medical\medications,
    i would always have my own water supply on me, no need to be severely ripped off at the shops with bottled water.

    Sure, a one off incident of pushing me car, petrol is cheap, but long term, which is what most people experience with their vehicles, is where the benefits really pay off...
    hmm...perhaps the ultimate econ goal is to have a Flintstone's type car with me pushing it everywhere instead of having a petrol engine.
    Someone should invent a vehicle that runs off muscle power.
    Last edited by Jay17; 21-12-15 at 02:05 PM.
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  21. #21
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Jezus, run out of time. Imma off to Lonnie again in a sec.
    Due to discovering this on monday, i'm getting thorough inspection on whole car, 'cus there may be other issues from previous owner's prang that may be more severe than he said.
    Mech said looks like both mounts were sheared off in strong impact and not from typical wear and tear breakage.
    Car runs and drives good, but imma now curious to see if there is other underlying damage.

    Will get back to responses this arvie or tomorrow morn.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  22. #22
    Registered User Fraud's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vagina View Post
    Don't change the diff the diff is set up for the gearbox there is three available in the XR6.
    I'm 90% confident that is incorrect when talking about non turbo 4 BA 4 speed boxes.

    Even the speedo will still read correctly because it runs off the ABS wheel sensors (unless you have a non-ABS model)

    I do remember reading something about issues with cruise control or something though, but regardless you can get the diff ratio changed in the ECU when you get it tuned.
    Quote Originally Posted by myshortyboomba View Post
    I've had many gauges in cars. I always found the conrods react faster than a gauge.

    you can always hear them when they break and they stop the engine immediately so you can't do any more damage.

  23. #23
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Hey, check this out...just about done me 1st tank test, kinda safe to say the reading will be 12.2L\100K.
    But more specific numbers when i chew up the last 60Ks worth.
    Way better than 13.4 when the old coils were in, and yes new Gossies are working fine.
    So obviously still something gone off , 'cus i was expecting it to reach 11.3 if it was just coils..

    Checked me car journal, K&N filter is only 2000Ks old, so that should still be clean, but i've never cleaned a K&N so...
    Possibly O2 sensor is slowly dying like coils were.

    But as i said, check this out...had to head back into lonnie to get socketset parts to reach last plug.
    Did that this morning and rechecked plug tighteness all round...while putting this back on...

    ...i first assumed, when i did Gossy installs, that the rubber sleeve(right arrow) was part of the alloy inlet port, and the plastic piping just sat tight into the rubber.
    Closer inspection this morning and the rubber is meant to slide over the alloy port and is actually moulded onto the plastic piping.

    Well mine isn't. Possibly another victim from the same problem that sheared both engine mounts off, the plastic has sheared off from the rubber,
    therefore as the engine moves about, air and dirt(and one unfortunate lady bug) is being sucked into the inlet manifold between the rubber and plastic.

    So imma do another tank's worth run with that fixed and full clean and re-oil of K&N filter.
    Then next on the list is replace O2 sensor and continue testing.
    Last edited by Jay17; 21-12-15 at 02:08 PM.
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  24. #24
    Registered User Stix Zadinia's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fraud View Post
    I'm 90% confident that is incorrect when talking about non turbo 4 BA 4 speed boxes.

    Even the speedo will still read correctly because it runs off the ABS wheel sensors (unless you have a non-ABS model)

    I do remember reading something about issues with cruise control or something though, but regardless you can get the diff ratio changed in the ECU when you get it tuned.
    i thought BA was still the same as AU which is a different coloured gear in the gearbox speedo drive depending on diff ratio - I had to swap mine when I put a ute gearbox into my AU2

  25. #25
    Registered User TurbostyleR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jay17 View Post
    Hey, check this out...just about done me 1st tank test, kinda safe to say the reading will be 12.2L\100K.
    But more specific numbers when i chew up the last 60Ks worth.
    Way better than 13.4 when the old coils were in, and yes new Gossies are working fine.
    So obviously still something gone off , 'cus i was expecting it to reach 11.3 if it was just coils..

    Checked me car journal, K&N filter is only 2000Ks old, so that should still be clean, bu ti've never cleaned a K&N so...
    Possibly O2 sensor is slowly dying like coils were.

    But as i said, check this out...had to head back into lonnie to get socketset parts to reach last plug.
    Did that this morning and rechecked plug tighteness all round...while putting this back on...

    ...i first assumed, when i did Gossy installs, that the rubber sleeve(right arrow) was part of the alloy inlet port, and the plastic piping just sat tight into the rubber.
    Closer inspection this morning and the rubber is meant to slide over the alloy port and is actually moulded onto the plastic piping.

    Well mine isn't. Possibly another victim from the same problem that sheared both engine mounts off, the plastic has sheared off from the rubber,
    therefore as the engine moves about, air and dirt(and one unfortunate lady bug) is being sucked into the inlet manifold between the rubber and plastic.

    So imma do another tank's worth run with that fixed and full clean and re-oil of K&N filter.
    Then next on the list is replace O2 sensor and continue testing.
    What kind of air flow meter does the ford have. If it's a hotwire afm then this could be your problem.
    A man can never step into the same river twice. Because, it's not the same river, it's not the same man.

  26. #26
    Hungry Hungry Hippo Tripper's Avatar
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    Uses a map sensor, cleaning the throttle body is also worth doing. Best doing it with 2 people, 1 to use the pedal to open it and 1 to clean it
    you cant spell advertisements without semen between the tits

  27. #27
    Convicted User data_mine's Avatar
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    fwiw



    Toy. 2006 GT-P, economy has stayed largely the same from, brand new and dead stock (230rwkw), through diff changes (2.73 -> 3.45 -> 3.93), n/a builds (up to 300rwkw), new engine (5.4L -> 5.8L), and supercharger (410rwkw). The large peaks are track days / powercruises / hillclimbs etc.


    Daily. 1998 LTD, 5.0L, 97rwkw (lol)


    Long term average for both are 15.16 and 15.21 L/100 respectively.
    It's not what you drive, it's how you drive.
    GT-P
    Bandsenkowagon

  28. #28
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    In 1986 fuel was around 50c/L according to the Queensland government, average national wage was around $450

    Average wage 29 years later is around $1150, so all things considered, 50c a liter back in '86 is $1.27 a litre in today's money;
    ULP has ranged from $1.20L to $1.40L in 2015 so its about as cheap as it was back in the day.....

    rose tinted glasses
    I am in agreement...many gov departments will attempt to convince us things are way rosey.
    Any incorrect stats publicly shared is either to quell any potential backlash from the working class for the systematic bloodsucking they seem to enjoy,
    or they are covering up their mistakes that has cost the working class,
    or they are trying to convince us they are handling the country better than the opposition did.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  29. #29
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dark Orange View Post
    You actually have to go back to 1977 before you got fuel under 18c/L
    Jezus, i just rechecked my calculations..
    it wasn't '86, it was '79 when i was 17 and filling up me XT thumpa 500, and the fuel was $0.17L.
    Possibly on special, but that's the only memory i can recall from back then of fuel prices.

    I still stand by my other calcs that fuel is not cheap today.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

  30. #30
    bloke with a ute Jay17's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hjtonner View Post
    198k on my ba xt no pics sedan. Unsure if the plugs have ever been done. Mate from bpt motor sport did a 15 min tune and now it's down to 8l highway driving at 115kmh. Round town nopics gets 15l. Will be doing plugs coils and oxy sensor soon then more lean cruise. Also hauls ass for a bog stocker pos

    Sent from my HTC_0P6B using Tapatalk
    Chatting with brother on mainland, he runs a bog standard BA wagon.
    He's got a reasonable sized lead foot, he started off at 10L\100K, and not too concerned about econ, he's never kept an eye on it over the last coupla years,
    while chatting he went and checked, he's now at 14L, but has noticed engine getting worse over time.
    10L the way he drives is pretty impressive.

    I bought good air intake-rubber flanged pipe from wreckers and serviced K&N last friday( even though it's only done 2000Ks),
    within 20-40Ks, dropped from 12.2 to 12.0L per

    O2 sensor is booked for 1st week in Jan as although since Goss coils install engine is running better, there's still a slight lurching at low speeds.
    "Let's not jump to conclusions" - Mike - MST3K

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