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Thread: 1979 Valiant CM Regal 'Survivor' Thread

  1. #931
    Registered User clutch-monkey's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    So dumb question on these boot mounted AC systems.

    In a 911 for example it's no worries as the "boot" is up front so you just run it straight in to the cabin.

    For normal cars with a boot where a boot should go, I assume your AC is just routed up via the parcel shelf (from the ones I have seen) and cools from the rear of the car rather than having vents under the dash? So essentially you have AC but not exactly like you can aim it on your face while driving for example? Or do people run some sort of ducting to up front as I am just wondering where as anything decent sized won't fit in the car without being obvious and surely underneath the car isn't a great idea?
    compressor is in the rear, but everything else can be in it's normal location if you need.
    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Jesus fucking christ! The pricetag!
    https://www.classicretrofit.com/coll...essor-ecu-only
    911 tax.. this unit is used in singers afaik.

    i used a rencool unit. left it in engine bay where battery tray goes. could not use normal AC compressor because steering box and fancy headers in the way.
    sterling autoelec made it work, used an e28 unit under the dash etc
    Last edited by clutch-monkey; 06-03-19 at 06:54 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by Walt Kowalski View Post
    Memes are only detectable by NSA.

  2. #932
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    So dumb question on these boot mounted AC systems.

    In a 911 for example it's no worries as the "boot" is up front so you just run it straight in to the cabin.

    For normal cars with a boot where a boot should go, I assume your AC is just routed up via the parcel shelf (from the ones I have seen) and cools from the rear of the car rather than having vents under the dash? So essentially you have AC but not exactly like you can aim it on your face while driving for example? Or do people run some sort of ducting to up front as I am just wondering where as anything decent sized won't fit in the car without being obvious and surely underneath the car isn't a great idea?
    I haven't looked closely at the boot mounted systems being used on their own, most of the ones I've looked into have been a second A/C where they vent via the parcel shelf or roof depending on what they're in. I have seen some guys running the ducts up inside the headliner with demister style vents overhead, neat but holy crap alot of work I reckon. Another way is run the ducts under the seats along the transmission tunnel.

  3. #933
    Registered User Marlin's Avatar
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    Iíve been considering one of these to put in the Valiant ute, but now the worst of summer has gone the price is even less palatable.
    http://www.cruisencomfortusa.com/hot-rod-series-1
    Oh for the days of USD parity plus!

  4. #934
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    Umm, why aren't you guys looking at Sandgen compressors with late model car receiver/dryer and condenser? A/C shops should be able to knock something up.

    I'm doing the heater/AC box in mine ATM. I'm $275 in so far and only changing seals and heater core, it's an eye wateringly expensive exercise. Plan is to get the A/C evaporator checked and capped ready for a later date. To be honest, I don't want A/C in the car.

  5. #935
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizone View Post
    Umm, why aren't you guys looking at Sandgen compressors with late model car receiver/dryer and condenser? A/C shops should be able to knock something up.

    I'm doing the heater/AC box in mine ATM. I'm $275 in so far and only changing seals and heater core, it's an eye wateringly expensive exercise. Plan is to get the A/C evaporator checked and capped ready for a later date. To be honest, I don't want A/C in the car.
    In my case, packaging is a bitch. I'm not even going to be able to use one of the off the shelf under dash units - will have to find a suitable evaporator to fit into the heater box. I *think* i can get the smallest sanden to fit on the drivers side down low, but have to rework the fuel system to make it fit. Apart from cost and electrical load, one of the electic jobbys would work nicely stuffed behind the back seat.
    For the time being, I'm going to keep on sweating i guess.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  6. #936
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizone View Post
    Umm, why aren't you guys looking at Sandgen compressors with late model car receiver/dryer and condenser? A/C shops should be able to knock something up.

    I'm doing the heater/AC box in mine ATM. I'm $275 in so far and only changing seals and heater core, it's an eye wateringly expensive exercise. Plan is to get the A/C evaporator checked and capped ready for a later date. To be honest, I don't want A/C in the car.
    I've got the compressor, and condenser is in already and will use a VX Commo drier also but need an evaporator to fit so going to use Vintage Air gear as I also need vents to suit my car, ducting, switches and controls etc. Even just an evap kit will cost around $1200 AUD + another probably $800 to ship it. By the time you fuck around to make something else fit you're probably in the same cost ballpark anyway but with a lot more fucking around. Nova's being small I doubt many factory options would even fit in the space.
    Hide yo' wife!!!

  7. #937
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I just went with Vintageair because I know it fits, and it lets me have a separate electronic control panel. That's for the Evaporator, the condenser and drier will probably be whatever is cheap and fits. Hopefully the stock compressor on the hemi works in its current location.

    Still chipping away and continuing to find a few 'why the fuck did they do that?' things.

    Found where the second guard support strut goes:

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    And also that I should stoneguard the underside of the guards, I have no idea how they got missed!

    Now, of course, the best way to secure is secondary guard support strut? Just weld a captive nut in the middle of the top of the engine bay so the protruding end gouges anyone who tries to do anything mechanical.

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    What the actual fuck? I thought I'd messed up but googled a few pictures of Valiant engine bays and they all seem to have the captive nut of doom and similar lengths of protruding thread. Might just replace it with a slightly smaller stainless bolt so at least no-one will get tetanus while installing the hemi.

    Otherwise slowly rebuilding the wiper linkages, which is a bit difficult because no-one else seems to bother. Clips and bushing seem to be available but no-one marks them specifically for Valiants.

  8. #938
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    Now, of course, the best way to secure is secondary guard support strut? Just weld a captive nut in the middle of the top of the engine bay so the protruding end gouges anyone who tries to do anything mechanical.

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    What the actual fuck? I thought I'd messed up but googled a few pictures of Valiant engine bays and they all seem to have the captive nut of doom and similar lengths of protruding thread. Might just replace it with a slightly smaller stainless bolt so at least no-one will get tetanus while installing the hemi.
    Bung a stainless acorn nut on the end of it.
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  9. #939
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Bung a stainless acorn nut on the end of it.
    This.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  10. #940
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    Can you weld a nut to the support strut and install the bolt from the opposite direction?

  11. #941
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Ahh Valiant lyfe

    Maybe we can look at a longer cruise in March 2020. Maybe to Albury????

    I really want to drive the chugger down to COTM.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  12. #942
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    If I get it done by then!

    Looking at it now Iím thinking a stainless Allen head socket bolt running the opposite direction with a nut on the other side of the support.
    Last edited by Mr Purple; 08-03-19 at 03:42 PM.

  13. #943
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Woohoo!

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    I know it's going to come out again anyway but still pretty satisfying.

    As an added bonus the dash only fell on my head once during the install.

    Weirdly they seemed to have changed the steering wheel mounting points when they went collapsible column, and of course the old mounting points are still there. I used them to secure the dash, whether they're meant to do that is another question.

  14. #944
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    That steering wheel brings back so many memories.

    Keeping it column shift and bench?

  15. #945
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Thatís the goal!

    The steering feel is only slightly worse with the column disconnected.

  16. #946
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mizone View Post
    Keeping it column shift and bench?
    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    Thatís the goal!
    I had a VK Ranger with a 265 in high school. Had benches and column auto. My mate at the time stuck her head in to the car and said "Cool, fuck seats all around."

    It was a classy high school.

  17. #947
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    fuck seats fkn lol

  18. #948
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    I wonder if M body 5th Avenue seats would fit this?


  19. #949
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I did suggest velour but my interior guys have their own ideas!

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    The original seats are going to be stripped back to frames and powdercoated, with the interior a mix of plain/cross stitched leather, suede panels with tweed inserts.

    They're currently building an early Ford Econoline van as their shop truck. Blue alligator skin upholstery. It's epic!

  20. #950
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Not this one is it?

    Ignore the watermark as the van was actually for sale last year up on the Gold Coast.

  21. #951
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    No, it's a '63.

    https://www.instagram.com/mad_mabel63/

    Though they've been too busy doing stuff for people like me to actually do much work on it lately!

  22. #952
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    That's pretty cool.

  23. #953
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Now Why the Fuck did they do that?

    I'm going to start a regular post headline in here, the 'Now why the fuck did they do that?' posts.

    Spent a good amount of time trying to get the bonnet release cable working yesterday. Bought a new standard one for not very much a few years back and it looked pretty straightforward.

    Two appropriately sized holes on the underside of the dash, a logical hole just behind them that fits the cable exactly and enables access under the guard, then another appropriately sized hole above the right hand front lights where the cable loops exactly to the bonnet opening mechanism.

    Except the cable is about 30mm too short that way. Try again, get all the slack out of the cable and see if I can make it reach, nope. Look for more appropriately sized holes, nope.

    Give up and look at online pictures to work out where it's meant to go, finally find a decent one of my actual car in 2011:



    So the cable goes from the pull handle , makes a sharp dogleg to a hole directly behind the steering wheel (now welded up, exits directly under the middle of the compliance plate in that photo) and then runs straight through the engine bay where it is riveted directly in the middle of the guard before running over the radiator to the catch.

    Why the fuck would you do it that way? There are literally two holes in exactly the right spot to run it under the guard and conceal it all the way. Looks like they used to run it under the guard and then just changed their mind - I have a theory they were using a Mopar off the shelf cable that was 30mm too short after abot 1975 or so. Lazy fucks!

    Anyway, fortunately they make a cable that is 50cm longer for this exact purpose. Though it's twice the price. Damn it!

  24. #954
    Ellis Juan mizone's Avatar
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    A LOT of stuff was done last minuite in a "Ahh, crap" moment when they moved things from LHD to RHD is my guess. The steering box is a classic example to this.

    Oh, stone guard under the fenders. I used bed liner, about three coats as it a big issue with Mustangs.

  25. #955
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I understand why they bodged stuff in a hurry initially, just not why they were still doing it 20 odd years later for this model. I'd imagine the profit margins were wafer thin and there was no point shutting down a production line to make the simplest modifications.

    I just realised the interior guys sell and apply Carbuilders 'Bully Liner' which is convenient, thanks!

    https://www.carbuilders.com.au/bully-rubber-liner-paint

    I'll just get them to apply some under the guards when it's back with them. There'll no doubt be some wiring and possibly pipes under there but they should be able to work around it.

    Have just changed my image hosting which gave me a chance to look through a lot of the old pictures.

    Turns out the rear bumper was never straight:



    Engine bay has come just a little way since then:



    Have had those original plates reissued which is nice.

  26. #956
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    I understand why they bodged stuff in a hurry initially, just not why they were still doing it 20 odd years later for this model. I'd imagine the profit margins were wafer thin and there was no point shutting down a production line to make the simplest modifications.

    I just realised the interior guys sell and apply Carbuilders 'Bully Liner' which is convenient, thanks!

    https://www.carbuilders.com.au/bully-rubber-liner-paint

    I'll just get them to apply some under the guards when it's back with them. There'll no doubt be some wiring and possibly pipes under there but they should be able to work around it.

    Have just changed my image hosting which gave me a chance to look through a lot of the old pictures.

    Turns out the rear bumper was never straight:



    Engine bay has come just a little way since then:



    Have had those original plates reissued which is nice.
    Awesome you could get the original plates again, even if it costs way more than it should.

    My first plates I got for my ZG Fairlane only cost $50 for PZG302 and then $100 for the Chugger plates, PXL265.

    Stuff was always done in the cheap and in hurry, whatever worked in the line to get the job done.

    As has been said above, the steering box is a classic example of quick and nasty all the way through from the 60's. In LHD cars the steering box is mounted on the K frame, RHD cars, too hard to engineer that so two holes in the chassis rail and job done.....

    Plenty of WTF moments with the Chugger too, like the shitty way the covers behind the rear windows are done, the way the fixed and pivoting windows are fitted and the rubbers used to hold them in, the way the boot drains are built, and plenty of other examples.

    Oh, and those plenums are factory spec.....

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  27. #957
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Typical Chrysler corp, spend all the money on engineering but there's nothing to pay for building them properly, or doing RHD conversions.

  28. #958
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    To be fair Chrysler Australia never had any money anyhow.

    How they ever got stuff done like the hemi or the charger, let alone build and develop any other car is a suprise, especially when you consider that the vh valiant was reputed to be the most Australian built car ever with over 95% local content.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  29. #959
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    On the positive side at least now I get the satisfaction of making considerable improvement over the factory in my garage with about three tools and no mechanical skill.

    What gets me is that itís often clear how it was meant to happen, but that the factory just plugged up that hole with a rubber bung.

    Test fitted the Vintageair evaporator this afternoon - didnít appreciate just how much room there is behind the dash once you throw out the heater box. Think itís actually smaller than the factory heater box, let alone both that and the AC this had. Fits entirely on the passenger side with nothing visible below the dash.

    Probably shouldnít have deleted the glovebox, damn it! Might actually get another panel made to sit behind the removable glovebox fill to hold the Haltech and fuse box.

  30. #960
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    OCD appeased, it's the little victories.

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    Thanks Gabba Bolt!

    Also mucked around bolting these on, mainly to check what stainless bolt to get for it.

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    For reference a pack of 1/4 x 1 inch UNC bolts are all you need to put about three quarters of a Valiant together. Long time to go before I can legitimately put those plates on.

    Called Hemiperformance regarding the extended bonnet cable pull setup and he was amazed at how much more expensive they were and lowered it to $12.50 more than standard without me even saying anything. Awesome customer service, I take it all back!
    Last edited by Mr Purple; 11-03-19 at 12:49 PM.

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