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Thread: 1979 Valiant CM Regal 'Survivor' Thread

  1. #1081
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Turns out right hand side CM front indicator lenses are unobtanium.

    Mint one just went on EBay and I got bid sniped at $120 at the last second.

    I think Iíll live with mine having a slight stone chip until someone does a run of repro ones! Weird because NOS LHS ones are $30.

  2. #1082
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Maybe an email to plumkrazy garage is in order then????

    Get enough of us to enquire about them and they might do a run, or I reckon they would see through the ruse and twig that there is only one person insane enough to want to have a perfect cm valiant....

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  3. #1083
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Still chipping away at this! The engine conversion has been pushed back a bit later in the year, which is no drama as it should be able to go straight from there to interior and completion because I'll actually have the money by then.

    Have found it is remarkably difficult to order a simple proximity based immobiliser. I'm on my third company already - the first two accepted the order and then did nothing for a fortnight, and when I called up they both said 'we haven't had those in stock for years and can't get one'. Presumably they're ordered from 1995. Absolutely shithouse customer service on both accounts though. Strathfield Car sound hopefully have one in stock. From 1995. Ironically the day I ordered one the immobiliser I had installed in the AW11 in 2001 also died. So now I need two.

    Anyway, wiring should start happening shortly so have been annoying Kabab for some amps. The PDX V6 seems to have been discontinued so I'm tempted to go all bogan-tastic and run dual Alpine R series in a 90's style boot display:

    https://www.alpine.com.au/product-ca...es-amplifiers/

    Twin central mounted subwoofers, dual backlit amplifiers, all I need is a fold out big screen and I'm there (no, that's a step too far). 4 x 100W + 1 x 500W works well with my setup as well.

    In the meantime I'm deliberating on whether to put a camshaft in the hemi before it goes into the car. It sort of makes sense to do it now while the engine is out and before it gets tuned.

    There's a good rundown on the main options here:

    http://www.shophemi.com/c-1106-camshafts.aspx

    Fuck, the fact that Americans are the main ones who have done this makes things hard though. They're always crapping on about things like 'lope' and seem to avoid wanting to spend anything on new springs or a custom tune. They'll happily spend $1k+ on a ported throttle body + $700 on a cam + a $500 cold air intake but absolutely nothing on the things that actually increase the power output. Before and after dyno readings? Of course not!

    Having said that COMP seem to talk the least shit and have some reasonable options. I was thinking of their mid range (268/272 duration) option. They do have a 272/277 duration but recommend an extended rev limit and I'm not sure I really want that in this car and in an otherwise stock hemi.

    http://www.shophemi.com/p-1892-comp-...12-501-11.aspx

    It'd be rude to not do the pushrods, valve springs and retainers at the same time. Do I need the extra 40-50hp? Probably not, but why not.

    Any suggestions welcome.

  4. #1084
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    I would suggest one of the helaphent crate motors, but they sold out really quickly....

    But in more sensible suggestions, do the cam, plus valve springs and push rods, the normal stuff you would do for an LS motor, and while the motor is out. Might as well make it as easy as possible for yourself.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  5. #1085
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    What kind of immobiliser? I have a proximity/touch tag type one sitting on the shelf here you can have for nothing.

    Otherwise we were getting full prox (reader around key barrel, tag on key ring) for the Birkins without an issue, will dig up the spec and post it up later...
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  6. #1086
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    This is what we used
    https://dynamco.com.au/product/p205-...r-immobiliser/

    It was a current product for a couple hundred bucks when we ordered them
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  7. #1087
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Thanks for the offer, that unit looks pretty nifty!

    Just a basic Mongoose which is around the $100 mark so nothing major.

  8. #1088
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    1979 Valiant CM Regal 'Survivor' Thread

    Yeah Iím pretty sure the basic Mongoose M15 Immobiliser is what I have in the garage never used/opened. It was sent by a supplier when we were trying to source Mongoose M18 or M25 units for testing and ended up going the Dynamco units which are awesome.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  9. #1089
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Thankyou for that info, looks like I will try to get one if those for the Chugger.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  10. #1090
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Yeah Iím pretty sure the basic Mongoose M15 Immobiliser is what I have in the garage never used/opened. It was sent by a supplier when we were trying to source Mongoose M18 or M25 units for testing and ended up going the Dynamco units which are awesome.
    Thanks, have sent you a message.

    Dynamco also looks pretty decent.

  11. #1091
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    +1 good info! Reckon I might have to get one of these too as you could start my car with a paddle pop stick.
    Hide yo' wife!!!

  12. #1092
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Thanks for sorting it Aaron!

    You need a paddle pop stick? Fancy!

  13. #1093
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by piss98 View Post
    +1 good info! Reckon I might have to get one of these too as you could start my car with a paddle pop stick.
    You canít beat it for a classic car as the reader coil is hidden above or around the ignition barrel, thereís a small dangle piece (which for 70ís authenticity you could hide in a lucky rabbits foot) on the key-ring and in general you simply stick key in ignition and turn and it works. Take key out of ignition and 30 secs later itís immobilised.

    Key advice is to build the immobiliser into your dash and ecu wiring so it all is wrapped and loomed in together. Mount the control unit somewhere thatís almost dash out to access and not visible when upside down looking up behind the dash. That way the elements of the system just disappear into the loom like OEM chip-key setups. The door sensing (instant arm if IGN off) and third output (itís a relay trigger, but you could use on an ECU input to trigger a immobiliser like action such as a 200rpm rev limit as a third step safeguard) make it really handy for complete integration not lay-over installs.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  14. #1094
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    This is what we used
    https://dynamco.com.au/product/p205-...r-immobiliser/

    It was a current product for a couple hundred bucks when we ordered them
    Looks very similar to the local fit unit Daewoo used before they were completly absorbed by GM in stuff like the Lanos.

  15. #1095
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    You canít beat it for a classic car as the reader coil is hidden above or around the ignition barrel, thereís a small dangle piece (which for 70ís authenticity you could hide in a lucky rabbits foot) on the key-ring and in general you simply stick key in ignition and turn and it works. Take key out of ignition and 30 secs later itís immobilised.

    Key advice is to build the immobiliser into your dash and ecu wiring so it all is wrapped and loomed in together. Mount the control unit somewhere thatís almost dash out to access and not visible when upside down looking up behind the dash. That way the elements of the system just disappear into the loom like OEM chip-key setups. The door sensing (instant arm if IGN off) and third output (itís a relay trigger, but you could use on an ECU input to trigger a immobiliser like action such as a 200rpm rev limit as a third step safeguard) make it really handy for complete integration not lay-over installs.
    So how do I wire up my triple 45DCOE's to take advantage of this????

    I will be phasing the link into the shop restoring the Chugger in the next few days so it wired in as the rest of the wiring is done.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  16. #1096
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    You won't need an immobiliser for triple webers. If it's anything like my Mini the police will arrive in the time it takes any potential car thief to start it.

    In news that will surprise no-one the PF collective have fixed my immobiliser problem faster than the combined might of Australian online retailers. Aaron posted me the Mongoose and it arrived today. He didn't charge me either so a massive debt is owed, cheers mate!

    I've also littered up 68RNRs thread and have bought his unsuitable Comp valve springs and retainers, once again at a top price, so thanks! Now I only need a cam.

    Ended up picking up a NOS Alpine PDX-V9 amplifier at $300 off retail as well. I'm fairly sure I've owned motorbikes with less power than the stereo system will now be able to offer.

  17. #1097
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    LOL that amp is worth more than my whole stereo! Not that it matters as I can't hear it anymore anyway!

    I'll keep the immobiliser in mind. I took it off my insurance policy that I had one and there was no change in cost but doesn't stop anyone nicking my shit still! Sadly I just had everything wired and wrapped so might wait until I do gauges down the track as then it can get tucked up in the gauge wiring and hidden away without doing things 2 or 3 times separately.
    Hide yo' wife!!!

  18. #1098
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    I have to admit most of this build is getting a whole heap of 90's bogan adolescent tendencies out of my system.

    Proper 900W amplifier, 6x9's, twin subwoofers and a tidy boot mounted install. Let's party like it's 1995.

  19. #1099
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    Now I only need a cam.
    The way things are deteriorating you might be able to have my cam... and probably the rest of the 6.4 attached to it for that matter.

    This Mongoose thing. That the jelly? I need to do exactly the same thing with my shitboxen. Currently I have no key, just a big isolator in the boot....
    I am checking out the Dynamco thing though, looks good....

  20. #1100
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    The Mongoose probably isn't the best, but is cheap (or in my case free!) and readily available. I was seriously considering using the Dynamco until Aaron's offer.

    My theory is that all the immobiliser will do is discourage the casual thief and provide some piece of mind. I'd probably recommend a tracking device and keeping the isolator as well. My major antitheft plan is to keep it in a locked garage behind a Lexus! Well that and never actually finishing it.

    I stand by my decision to use the 6.1 due to lack of MDS and VVT!

    I'm thinking of going the 268 degree one from Comp:

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=605&sb=2

    Just because it'll suit my relatively mild torque converter and rear rubber better than the full-blown 273 degree option:

    http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/c...?csid=606&sb=2

    I'm hoping for 400 internet rwhp. We'll find out just how inaccurate the yanks are.
    Last edited by Mr Purple; 04-06-19 at 04:23 PM.

  21. #1101
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post

    I stand by my decision to use the 6.1 due to lack of MDS and VVT!
    *sigh*

  22. #1102
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 68RNR View Post
    This Mongoose thing. That the jelly? I need to do exactly the same thing with my shitboxen. Currently I have no key, just a big isolator in the boot....
    I am checking out the Dynamco thing though, looks good....
    The Mongoose definitely isnít the ducks nuts, but as a basic 2-circuit immobiliser with ADR credentials (valuable for insurance company questions in the worst case scenario) and some level of Australian support itís not all bad. The M15 (what I sent Mr Purple) has a small socket/touch point mounted that you touch the fob dongle to before starting. They were used by a few importers and many dealerships as aftermarket solutions to give an Australia-wide State rego authority compatible immobiliser.

    We wanted our Clubman builds to be more seamless integration, OEM style, and definitely none of this ďpush the unlock button to disable the immobiliserĒ when the cars donít have doors which meant either the Mongoose M18 or M25 (both No Longer Available) or the Dynamco P205 which was/is brilliant to work with.

    Expect to pay about AUD250 delivered with GST direct from Dynamco IIRC. If youíre not planning on remote central locking itís ideal, however arguably given how easy it is to clone a 433MHz alarm remote these days the prox-based system these use is way more secure.

    In our experience every auto sparky or car audio guy has their own views on units and features but ultimately even the shittest chinabay unit will keep a car secure if the install is up to the task. (How long the unit lasts is a different story).

    To accomodate changing units in the future make sure you make a diagram/list of which wires at the immobiliser box end are linked to where/what in the cars loom. Itís worth it especially when dealing a forever car so youíre not chopping up the nicely integrated setup if it ever needs replacement.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  23. #1103
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    Noted.

  24. #1104
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Excellent post,.looks.like my mind is made up, will be getting the dynamco unit for the chugger.

    Will be able.to have it integrated into the wiring harness.

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  25. #1105
    Grumble bum 68RNR's Avatar
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    Agreed, this is perfect. Thanks for the info Az! A gentleman and a scholar!

  26. #1106
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Still buying parts for this way faster than I'm installing them, so nothing has really changed!

    Just waiting for the dashboard and gauge cluster to get back from the interior guys, and the Optima D34 and tray from Kabab and all the bits for the wiring should be here so that will happen next.

    The good news is Pacific Plating have finished my chrome, the bad news it could be weeks before I actually pick it up because I'm currently spending half my time at work, and the other half euphemistically 'doing business' (i.e. in meetings with morons). Hopefully that'll be sorted out shortly!

    Thanks to 68RNR and his haphazard internet purchases these arrived this week:



    Comp Cams valve springs (26918-16) and steel retainers (761-16). I love how all American car parts come in a box from 1974.

    Apparently the Hemis tend to run into issues with valvetrain at high revs and in this case it was very cheap insurance. They're not the absolute best setup (there are titanium retainers and better springs) but better than stock and about a third of that price as well, so thanks!

    I'm thinking from here of going with the Manley 26610 pushrods and ordering a camshaft through High Horse Performance at the same time.

    Which leads to the next ethical dilemma. They offer two options:

    Stage 1 - which seems based on the Comp 268 but apparently offers better driveabillity. +40hp untuned, probably a fair bit more than that considering I'm using custom extractors and a full aftermarket ECU with tune:

    https://www.highhorseperformance.com.../hhp61cam1.htm

    Or Stage 2 with 'mystery specs' which requires aftermarket valvetrain and tune. The yanks make it hard to work out but they're adding something like 70-90 internetamericanhorsepower with canned tunes and their usual combination of stupid modifications (polished throttle bodies anyone?) with these.

    They also offer 1R and 2R (rumble) options which is 10hp less and a stupid 'lopey' idle. I am completely uninterested in this because a) I'm not a fuckwit and b) I have some retarded full racing camshaft in the Mini which 'lopeys' plates off the shelves in the house when I start it.

    Stage 2 is the obvious solution because the overall cost is the same anyway now. But then I need a torque converter.

    https://www.summitracing.com/int/par...5-30/overview/

    And then I've turned my weekend cruiser from something comfortable and stock with 350-370rwhp with something approaching 450rwhp+. God damn it. Can I justify putting a stupid cam in it because that'll make it safer from 2000-5000rpm?

  27. #1107
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    What ever answer you want to hear, yes do that....

    Your friendly enabler

    Sent from my XT1635-02 using Tapatalk

  28. #1108
    Registered User piss98's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    They also offer 1R and 2R (rumble) options which is 10hp less and a stupid 'lopey' idle. I am completely uninterested in this because a) I'm not a fuckwit and b) I have some retarded full racing camshaft in the Mini which 'lopeys' plates off the shelves in the house when I start it.
    Hey my car resembles that remark! Sounds angry though chopping away at idle at the lights.

    And if you don't get the higher power option now you'll always wonder later on. Nothing wrong with a bit more power and let's face it everything else has been done to such a high standard already it doesn't make sense to back off now!
    Hide yo' wife!!!

  29. #1109
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    The Mini is so loud and idles so furiously my daughter is terrified of it. I promised her the Val will be quieter!

    Thatís 2 out of 3. Bigger cam it is! Plus this way I can keep it if I need ported heads (500rwhp+) or a 426ci bottom end (700hp+).

    Iím predicting it will see 460hp at 7000rpm on the street. But only once.

  30. #1110
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post

    Iím predicting it will see 460hp at 7000rpm on the street. But only once.
    I am hoping that is because the chassis and tyres not coping scares the bejeesus out you and not because there is the crashing and tinkling sounds of glass diff and axles shattering as you turn out if your street.


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