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Thread: 2012 1m

  1. #31
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    FYI 1M downpipes have different part numbers to the 135i/335i N54 downpipes. The cats aren't as restrictive to the 135i/335i cats (I used to have a 135i when the 1M was released so I followed the cars discoveries/developments closely).

    But yeah, catless downpipes and N54 midpipes seem to be the go for a power setup that retains cats. If you want noise-only get N55 midpipes (no cats), which sell for $350ish used, $450ish new. N54 midpipes are worth $100-150 max.
    Kebabhunter

  2. #32
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Yeah same conclusion I came to especially since used N55 pipes are not worth it. I offered $450 to one guy last September and once again in Jan ($500), he wants $650. I understand they're NLM but it's not a special OEM part and especially not worth it when they aren't much more from the dealer anyway.
    The best option would be wrecker car - the narrow year range has made it a 4 month search so far. Another option was N54 midpipes with cats and resonator deleted. At this point I just decided, fuck it, catless downpipes it is despite the higher flow 1M pipes. Throttle response, lowered WGDC, EGT should be worth it

    Wagner: 2.5" throughout, easier fit with more clearance. Not sure if it's the picture but doesn't look mandrel bent in some sections. Tabs to mount to drivetrain/chassis which should ease the load on the turbine housing and overall assembly. Common cause for cracked manifolds is insufficient support.
    AR Design: 3" with nice taper to 2.5", no OEM style tabs. I can't weld, so $$ (and the fucking around involved) to get it done.
    VRSF: Cheap, will probably rattle and drive me insane after TC1 coating is applied. Poor taper to 2.5". No OEM style tabs.

  3. #33
    Weeeeee XXX19X's Avatar
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  4. #34
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    Off to car sales I go
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  5. #35
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    I like the discrete theme on that one. Going for the same thing except the badge. Got a sample sheet of 3M Vinyl i'll try on the side indicators next week. Hopefully it's enough.

    >"You know what you don't see there?"
    "No carbon roof!"

    lol

    I'm not sure about best BMW of all time, but it definitely is fun and demands your attention/focus plus has a little bit of character which I thought was missing from newer cars. Ie. I still carry basic tools in the boot should that throttle body pipe slip off.

  6. #36
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Wagner downpipes are in after sitting for 9 months. More aftermarket pos that doesn't really fit perfectly.

    Pretty much sounds like this car:


    Turbos whistles as soon as you get on it in the low rev range with the windows cracked/down. Might be because of RHD.
    Took it for a run through Akuna Bay/West Head and got caught in the rain. Needs rear grip. Fuck knows how other people get traction in these pushing at least 30% more power.

  7. #37
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    Nice, not bad. Could do with a PE mod
    Kebabhunter

  8. #38
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    PE Mod? If a local 1M backbox comes up for sale I might take a grinder to it. The noise at the moment is decent. The whoosh noises in low RPM is due to some function called "lean spool" in the ECU.

    There's some public XDFs but they're severely gimped. Ie a conglomerate of tuners (actually good that they work together and pick eachothers brains) have much more definitions. But the public releases are 9-12mths behind, it's a joke really.
    An example I asked for is this: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showpo...postcount=7278
    And the response? Oh, we're on it (Awesome!) but we're figuring out how to add easy checkboxes for joe blow and we're also not going to do a pull request on the XDFs repo on github (...wtf).

    Anyway enough with this negativity, onto what I can do in TunerPro.
    Flashed a base map for myself, disabled cat efficiency codes, adjusted the torque request map for M-mode throttle.

    Short-term:
    Play with VVT(VANOS) settings and retard the intake cam a bit especially in the 5000-6000 region.
    Get a better understanding of "Overboost" tables. It seems like it does nothing over 4500rpm (or 5000) which is logical since peak HP doesn't change as per the manufacturer specs. Extending this moderate pressure target (14.5psi) to at least 6000rpm would feel good and not diesel-like.
    Log fuel trims and add fuel where I need to as a result of the catless downpipes.

    Long-term: Going to buy IDA and get shit done myself. Tables are all good and stuff, but to really understand them you have to understand the possible nested functions. Being a nerd in my daily duties should help with this. I also can't stand Americans mixing imperial and metric. Celsius for some tables. Fahrenheit for majority of others, conversion to lb/ft. Fucking swedes.

  9. #39
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    The one day I decide to drive it to a client, this happens in their carpark:



    Anyway, could be worse.

    Started getting base maps ready:
    Car runs cooler driving around for 45min and no longer pegs 120C oil temps even in Sydney heat today and yesterday. PWM controlled waterpump
    Intake cam retarded about 5-8degrees works surprisingly well. With a little more fuel, it's noticeable in the 5000-6000rpm range.

    Noticed the used metal throttle body pipe leaks from the MAP flange while I was cleaning out the threads with acetone. The retard I bought it from not only stripped the thread but tightened the bolt so much or used a longer than supplied bolt, his managed to penetrate the pipe. Might be leak-free and all good once screwed in, I hope so.

  10. #40
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Self tuning going okay:

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Since fixed the load/boost drop from 5500-5700, and realised I had 135i VANOS exhaust cam settings. Reverted back to 1M. Noticeably quicker and now have clutch slip when banging gears only which is odd. Almost as if the clutch is disengaged very slowly. Maybe it's the CDV or maybe the DME is also closing the throttle to save what's left of it. Who knows, need logs.

    Last thing sitting in the cupboard since March left to install is the Wagner EVO1 FMIC.

    Shitpost by another competitor:
    http://www.mosselmanturbo.com/wp-con..._Mosselman.pdf
    They show a 5.29psi pressure drop at approx 380g/s (your typical Stage 2 tune) and worse than OEM.
    Wagner says 2.5psi @ 240g/s but better than OEM:


    For me it was between the Mishimoto, Forge, Wagner (Bar/Plate) since they all reuse the OEM quick disconnect o-ringed connections. I'm not cutting up this car. If it was a 135i, I'd do otherwise. After looking at the Wagner several times in person, I've asked them the possibility to make me a Evo1 Comp (Tube/Fin) with the OEM quick disconnects. No idea why they don't offer this in the first place. All they seem to do is chop the cast endtank, prep for welding, put it in a jig and weld on CNC'd billet OEM style fittings. Slightly lower pressure drop and 2.5kg less weight would be welcome. Meanwhile I'm still 50/50 installing this and I'll probably only do it after some more logging and a new clutch.

  11. #41
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Went to SMP South today with camber plates, Cup2s, pads, new tune.

    Hit limp once and overboost once. N54 is the best turbo motor by BMW. Didn't know you had to mash the start/stop button 3 times to restart while rolling. Oh well.

    A sample of the ridiculousness of this car while my pre-turnbull internet uploads the rest.


    It's also retarded under braking. The bite is good enough to unsettle the rear end everytime. Might need to get an actual alignment.
    Think I ran this with 0 toe all round, -2.1 front camber,-1.8 (lol) rear camber, some sort of increased front caster because I goofed installing the strut back.
    Last edited by gmx; 11-02-18 at 06:29 PM.

  12. #42
    Registered User AndyMac's Avatar
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    Look forward to seeing this thing in April.

    Who will you get to do the alignment?
    Panzer Wagen

    M-Cars follow the idea that power should be felt & not seen

  13. #43
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    ^ Likewise!

    Nelsonian101 recommended East Coast Suspension and I'll head there next Monday morning.
    I'll adjust the caster back to neutral on the weekend. So it won't be a true before/after but fingers crossed he can work his magic to get it a bit more stable.
    Taking it slow, learning and identifying "problems" with the car and me before throwing bits at it.

  14. #44
    Little engine that could. itsnotagsr's Avatar
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    One of these (relatively) cheap on carsales. Seems to be reasonably priced compared to the usual dreamers. Soooooo much want.
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917

    "In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
    (TM - AVENGE)

    "You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
    Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02

  15. #45
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Surprised that one hasn't been snapped up tbh.

    Only thing remotely off putting is the missing oem wheels.

  16. #46
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    If he is closer. Pete @ Road&Race at Rydelmere... Know's BMW's well. Need to book and allow a day though.

    Yeah, bit of a dream car of mine the 1M, be more of a polisher for me though, I reckon these things will be worth a mint in 10 years. I'd 100% put it into the "CSL, E30 M3, E46 CSL, M Coupe Clownshoe" type bracket.
    Panzer Wagen

    M-Cars follow the idea that power should be felt & not seen

  17. #47
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Mine certainly isn't perfect, the exposed guards get hammered with fine chips easily. A lot of owners have the car repsrayed then completely wrapped/PPF'd. Bits of vynil and tape will do until I put it into that bracket
    Re the black one on carsales. Service light is on, except the ad says it has full history. Still worth checking out.

  18. #48
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    After 3 alignments, I have a feeling the rear eccentric bolts aren't holding. First and third time the "before" value has been 7, and 8mm toe out respectively. Second time, I asked the mob doing it to 0 it out, either wasn't done, done wrong, or backed out - on both sides. Haven't heard of any M3 or E8x/E9x owners experiencing the same thing. Anyhow, Explains how it drives.
    Ended up with -3mm total toe which seems to be a lot by internet speak but we'll see. So far so good, and couldn't be happier with ECS.
    Also, seems like the allen caster screws on the camber plates use 5.5mm sockets. Why? Swedes...



    Best lap was 1:06.4 during session 2.

  19. #49
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    Yikes, 8mm of rear toe out?! Apparently these things are pretty bitey anyway, so I'm impressed you managed to keep it pointing in vaguely the right direction.

  20. #50
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Heh, have to say I couldn't do that all day. Electronic aids helped keep it on the black stuff after a few "bigger" ones like the one above.
    One of the boring 1:06.4 later in the day with "MDM" on.

    Heaps of room for improvement.

    Couldn't check torque on the toe bolts yet since the 1M/M3 toe arms use triple square bolts. Non Ms are normal hex, another wtf moment. Marked them with a sharpie for the time being.

    Rear alignment before:
    RL/RR:
    Camber: -1.6 / -2.16
    Toe: -4 / -4.5

    After:
    -2.16
    +3mm total
    Front is -2.83 with -2.5mm total toe.

    Street impressions of the new alignment are awesome, it feels as if I'm on OEM 250kw map and the front end is pointier.
    Lesson learned, $65 alignment at black donut retailer probably means "yeah the totals are in spec for an E87 118i so i'm not going to do shit"

  21. #51
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    Take it to Pete.

    He'll fix it from moving out of setting if you tell him thats what its doing.

  22. #52
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Getting more and more comfortable driving this thing with no aids on standard suspension and tyre sizes + camber plates. Constantly playing with the throttle map helps with that. OEM M mode throttle map is plain retarded and way too difficult to modulate - I'd say impossible.

    There's a knock in the rear left corner that has been driving me nuts since my second ever session back in Feb:

    Skip to 5:40 for Porsche GT4 flyby porn

    It started when I ran offline and picked up a bunch of garbage. Pretty much took apart that whole corner except top shock mounts and didn't see anything obvious. Dave/ECS also didn't note anything abnormal when he test drove while he was doing his thing (alignment). It also felt fine to me after I heard it so I kept driving. I'm starting to think it's the TPMS sensor inside the wheel fallen off. Except no TPMS alerts German shit strikes again.

    Pedestrian outlap+warmup lap at Wakefield:
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PhZLMibQXDY
    And the fantasic M viscolock diff at 0:05. It's interesting how this circuit really exposes the weaknesses of this car. Ran into Nelsonian101 there and his feedback and generosity is awesome.

    This happened after I spun:


    Modern cars without space savers or spares eh?

    Pics from the day:



    The obligatory, "But it's not a S engine!" pic:


    New Marulan circuit is awesome, couldn't crack 59s though. Unfortunately no video.

    Probably do a few skidpan or wet circuit days as I have trouble with gathering up more than an armful of lock sometimes.

    And met this dude in Japan:


    He had an akrapovic cat back. 3 months later and I can't resist anymore. About time to tick the Ti exhaust thing. About 600 euro cheaper without CF tips. I'll take that (axle back).
    At this point it's pretty much like a E9x M3 but worse due to the short wheelbase. The front is soft, the rear subframe is attached with slightly stiffer rubber mounts but not solid like the F8x and E92 GTS. Should go much faster, and importantly, more consistent with that stuff sorted out. Consistent = fun.
    Last edited by gmx; 31-05-19 at 08:07 PM.

  23. #53
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Revisited SMP South last Sunday for the BMW Supersprints. Porsche NSW Club was running their sprint on North circuit, flat 6 symphony is something else. Yet, south circuit tends to get a lot more variety of cars for some reason including Porsches.
    Windy night on Saturday, circuit was very dusty the next day. Too slow for group 1 this time, good for me. The run order is 1,3,2,4 so I have 2 groups clearing the track of dust in the morning


    Last time out the differences were; the alignment sucked, it was 40C but the tyres were practically new. First two sessions, couple low 6s and high 5s, so already PB'd but there was heaps more.
    Slapped in a 4pt harness and immediately finished with 2x high 4s when I could find space, best of 1:04.73.


    Didn't gather any data, so I don't know the theoretical best. These tyres (PSC2) have a different, presumably softer compound on the outer shoulder blocks which is why they chunk easily without enough neg camber. I'm hoping I can lean on the outer shoulders, rely on lateral grip to get another day or two out of them. As far as traction is concerned, they seem to be done. I bled them to 35F/34R hot each session and they light up 2nd easily. Fun to keep the pedal to the floor out of the pits or hairpin often Will post a pic when I swap back to street pads.

    As in the wakefield video, most obvious around the fishhook and where it feels like it rides the stops on the sweeper before the back straight, suspension and damping sucks. It moves around under braking and it's noticeable coming into the last chicane. The massive rake with the photo taken at Wakefield is also telling. Collecting a bunch of shit to improve it but keep it decent for the street:
    Solid rear subframe mounts. Russian two-piece ones that don't need ridiculous force to press
    Spherical bearing front tension arm - the OEM rubber causes much aids. Definitely contributes to the braking behaviour.
    Poly rear shock mounts - who knows why the Ms use the same part as the non-Ms.
    18x10 all round with probably a slower but more consistent tyre compound. AR-1s, cheap too.
    Most importantly, 2 way coilover. 3 way is above my head and I lack PF nigga baller rich status.

    It's 180kg lighter than an E92 M3 with the same weight distribution (51/49). Can a lighter car get away with more spring or is the opposite? Do I even want more spring as the circuits we seem to have are pretty bumpy? Fuck knows, more reading and calcs do.

  24. #54
    Little engine that could. itsnotagsr's Avatar
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    You don't seem to be enjoying it? No confidence in the handling?
    "If you can make black marks on a straight from the time you turn out of a corner until the braking point of the next turn, then you have enough horsepower." - Mark Donahue Penske Porsche 917

    "In Japan we no give fark for Subaru" - Trust Japan Technical Director
    (TM - AVENGE)

    "You can never have enough power. I remember when we had Group B cars... THEN we had enough power!"
    Juha Kankkunen - Rally of Argentina '02

  25. #55
    Registered User darkside's Avatar
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    Such a good thing. Would love a beemer M coupe in my life. Re setup itís probabaly personal preference but I am a fan of a more plush softer spring and good quality damping to make a good all round car that will be good over the bumps and still fast on a smooth track. Wonít compromise it too much in the road either. The rest I guess is setup. Too high at the rear and it might get nervous under brakes. Lowering the rear and some toe in can settle that. One other tip I got was to always chase grip at the end lacking it. Kind of sounds obvious, but you can balance a car that say is under steering by giving it more rear bar or rear spring which will get it balanced but overall be slower. Chasing more front grip (camber angles, softer spring, softer bar, softer bump damping) should improve front grip and balance the car and make it a faster thing.

  26. #56
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by itsnotagsr View Post
    You don't seem to be enjoying it? No confidence in the handling?
    Heh, I probably had too much fun and unnecessarily wore the rears a bit more than I should.


    I'm enjoying it more and more. Id'ing issues with either myself or the car might seem pessimistic, but it's part of development. I think the mistake I made before was taking things way too far, comprehending the wrong material, overthinking it, before executing something on the extreme end of the spectrum (haven't we all?) then never getting the seat time to enjoy it or for the purpose I intended.
    I reckon I'm at a point where I can clearly distinguish and feel little bits making a difference. Laptime isn't important, this car isn't about that. The F series cars are much more reliable, faster and capable off the floor, let alone other makes/models etc. While some might see it as waste of time and money, I seem to enjoy it.

    I'll drop the diff/engine fluids this weekend while I swap street pads back in. Akrapovic slip-on also arrived, which I hope to get around to as well.

    I'm reading the same thing(s) about spring rate selection, ie slightly undersprung and let the damper do the work. I'll try Bilstein Au here. The reference in the other thread for Bilstein distribution does work/engineering on this black M4. Same guy can do "something custom", much be too extreme. Local support, technical recommendations is a +1 though.

    Stiff is fine and a given, local support/presence, shit that doesn't fall apart, require frequent rebuilds or turn into a constant rattle can is important.
    Last edited by gmx; 31-05-19 at 08:14 PM.

  27. #57
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Another supersprint, BMW vs Porsche day. Used this day to try a tuna but the car didn't like it. I was stuck in open loop and only 6-7psi pretty much the entire day when I had power. Slower/lower than a standard 135i. M2's were blowing me away in the straights.
    Only got 3 sessions with the 3rd being quite late in the afternoon. And that itself ended pretty quickly due to a coolant spill. Which happened right in front of me. Funny how I was asking what aquaplaning felt like earlier in the day. Not quite the same but yeah "things did go quiet". Called it a day, didn't see the point in going back out after that.

    Video of the last session including the coolant slick:


    First time on the full circuit, actually find it nice and flowing but surprisingly difficult to string a lap together. Spent the first two sessions entering turn 5 sideways which was fun but slow.

    2019 hope planes: As above, with some alterations, ball jointed and solid mounted rear subframe, 2-way dampers on a "soft" setup, staggered 18s. If I can get another bootlid I'll try slap a pizza tray on it - although I find it stable yet clearly under-steers as-is in high speed stuff anyway. Maybe I'm not pushing hard enough...

    There were some sick cars there; GT2RS (member on PF here I believe?), handful of GT3RS, Lambo Performante, 675LT and 720S which were fastest on the day with sub 1:40s.
    Crappy phone pic of the GT2RS:
    Last edited by gmx; 31-05-19 at 08:16 PM.

  28. #58
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Didn't really have any updates since I hit 117C coolant temps and 130C oil temps - one of many torque reduction modes. Got a locally made kit used on some 1M production cars and street cars in used condition:




    It was more than used, but whatever.


    It was at this moment, I ended up making the same mistake as before; a shitbox in pieces:


    After digging in further and finding a clear lack of attention to detail and pure carelessness, I should've stuck to my gut instinct and DIY'd this whole thing. Time poor, such is life.
    Anyway, to get dual oil coolers in, the aux radiator is removed on the LHS. It's hard to get OEM parts, and some small shit is missing. Time even poorer figuring it out on ETKA.
    Missing, incorrect usage and loose screws all over the place. Whatever, ok that's petty and easily solved at 50c a piece.
    It also sits right up on the front bar and started to melt it.


    I end up taking it apart, to redo it myself, fuck knows how these people get paid. Found more dodgy work as I disassemble it:
    Small crack on the undertray, minor.


    Cracked bar to undertray piece.


    Then I see broken headlight locating tab.


    Most of these bits come with 1M tax. Fuck these guys...

    Like all old shit, they leak oil. Oil from the oil filter housing gets on the belts, the serp belt slips off the pulley but is blocked by the crank pulley. Basically "bounces" off it and then gets sucked into the engine via front main seal. You always want to solve leaks in that area and rectify asap. This car isn't old except there's oil all over the front sway bar and underside of the car from air travel when in motion. So, what'd these guys do when taking off the front housing/thermostat assembly for the in/out plate? Let all oil in the filter housing pour all over.




    Questionable design with sharp contours, perhaps excess material as well. Steel screws, rusted heads on pretty much all of them. Sharp edges that rubs on the hoses.. Being used, you can easily see this.



    Compromised braid:


    For production car racing, maybe this is fine to get by. I have nfi.

    Options:
    1) Scrap it and buy this:


    2) Polish a turd
    3) Go back factory. Yeah nah because half my shit is missing and I can't be fucked with ETKA at the moment.

    So naturally I choose option 2, attempt to polish a turd.

    LHS bracket / duct clearanced and smoothed out around the hoses. Excess material taken off.



    Outer ears of core chopped even more. Doesn't leak [yet], fuck yeah!


    Hopefully clears the bar much better now. Might completely chop it like the lower section if it doesn't.

    Did I say I don't have time for this shit?
    Still have to:
    Do the RHS
    Add louvres to these giant gaping holes:

    Maybe add some rubber pads between the fasteners.
    Plastic weld the headlight locating tab 'cos 1M tax
    Replace other fucked stuff.
    Finally, fuck it all off and order the kit in option 1.

  29. #59
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Pretty impressed with option 1, went ahead and bought another one. They were ok to give pieces and not the full kit. Turned out much cheaper.



    Plastic ducts need some trimming to perfect the fender/bumper gap, that's pretty much it.

    All in -10AN. The above was before I tried rerouting the outer (feed/inlet) hose end for more clearance and away from the tyre potentially rubbing through to it or it rubbing on the liner. Bend radius is pretty bad as a result. Got 2x30 degrees fittings coming for the cross-over outlet fitting. Hopefully eases the bend on the inlet. I thought I should just get some 180s and swap the inlet and outlets around. After I clicked buy, fuck it.

    Louvers getting knocked up:



    Hopefully all done in time for June 22/23 @ Wakefield.

    If not, brand new liners go back on. Thank fuck that was part of the deal/swap.
    Pedal is still good but not as good as last year. Might be time for these:


    CNC'd R35/ZL1/1LE etc etc Brembos with Merc TRW pad on sale at supercheap. Found some flake coated mini carrier bolts (BMW rears are actually the same for shitloads of models) that are 11mm shorter which should stop the bolt fouling the pad:


    Knuckle is 23mm
    Mini/Rear BMW Bolt is M12x1.5x32mm
    Bracket is 11mm until the recess part. I hope that's enough thread.

  30. #60
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    Threw in another oil cooler on the LHS. Kind of a rush to get it all together and didn't get many pics for a week long trip down in Canberra concluding with Wakefield over the weekend.
    Bracket didn't line up with studs as the spacing is different on the frame rail. Single stud and support brace is good enough for the time being. RHS isn't perfect either, but it's progress. Obviously without the thermostat it's way too cool for Canberra weather. Taping one of the ducts off completely wasn't enough.

    Car is solid, no temperamental nuances throughout the weekend event. At least, at cold Wakefield. Both days were quite cool with peak oil temps at 116C, coolant at 94-7C under load (idle targets higher). Very happy for basically flash tune, camber plates and AD08Rs. It's a riot to drive and rewarding if you hook it all up. Or most of it for me .

    Best laps of day 1:

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