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Thread: Curing axle tramp

  1. #1
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Curing axle tramp

    Looking for some suggestions and or recommendations of who to see;
    I've got a Toyota Cressida that's crap off the line and during gear changes due to axle tramp, the last time I took it out it ran a 12.5 @121mph which is a bit sad, it shakes hard on rear wheel spin.
    Its a basic 2JZ, R154 with a twin plate clutch, front suspension is stock KYB shocks with king lows, rear is bilsten MA70 shocks with king lows and a larger swaybar. Has 4.1 gears with a 1.5 way LSD, runs a MA70 supra diff, It had BC coilovers which were stiff as fuck and it was probably worse so take that as you will.

    I've got a MA61 Supra with far less power yet it turns the tyres with sheer ease, runs just as fast with quite a bit less MPH and the rear suspension setup on MA61's is utter shit.


    So, suggestions or recommendations of who in Sydney can take my money and actually help?
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  2. #2
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Stiffer diff and suspension bushes or a diff brace/gearbox brace/engine mounts. Lower driveline inertia and higher stiffness will help but may be cost prohibitive. Checking the geometry will probably make a big difference.

    Probably need to look at rear trailing arm angles if its lowered as that can exacerbate tramp. Not familiar with them but if you want it low you might need some form of drop link or something on the hub to restore geometry or raise the arms at the body end.

  3. #3
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    It's IRS:
    Has solid diff bushes and the subframe bushes are urathane. It's not really low in the rear either. Have tried a solid gearbox mount, no change. When I did the diff conversion I matched the clearance from the top of the pinion flange to the subframe to keep the factory jwa. Ive been told the twin plate won't be helping.

    Years ago I had one with cut springs with a W58/7MGE and it was perfect.

  4. #4
    Registered User Tyrie's Avatar
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    My 1600 was terrible when I got it. Swapping from the koni reds to yellows fixed 90% of it. /csh

  5. #5
    Arrogant wankeler Slides's Avatar
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    Shifting the natural frequency of the unsprung mass and spring/damper away from the driveline natural frequency /having critical damping will make a big difference if the geometry is otherwise ok.

  6. #6
    Chrome bumper cunts! Soopy's Avatar
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    If the pinion angle is fucked, harder suspension is just going to make it hop harder.
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  7. #7
    Down with ma homies Greg Rust's Avatar
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    Check the peanut angle. Nose down 1.5deg.
    2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
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  8. #8
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    It should be the same as factory but I'll go check it
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  9. #9
    Chrome bumper cunts! Soopy's Avatar
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    There's every chance the factory pinion angle is fucked once you start making enough power to twist it up.
    Quote Originally Posted by oioioioioi View Post
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sketchy View Post
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  10. #10
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    If you can fit shocks with adjustable rebound you could tune it out.

  11. #11
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Soopy View Post
    There's every chance the factory pinion angle is fucked once you start making enough power to twist it up.
    Its IRS, diff is solidly mounted and the subframe is on urethane bushes so it should be good.
    I'm certain I measured the height from the top of the old flange to the subframe and when I made mounts to fit the new diff made the height the same but will confirm.

    The only other things are suspension arm bushes but they all look alright but its $500 to put a kit through the rear.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

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