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Thread: Stuck with a Haltech trigger error

  1. #1
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Stuck with a Haltech trigger error

    I'm at an event this weekend and on my 4th run of the day yesterday, 3rd lap coming onto the main straight the car stopped revving and slowed to a stop. I shut it down, restarted and limped back with a heavy misfire. The speed also didn't seem to be displaying correctly, wasn't monitoring it to know if that was an issue before.

    The car starts fine and revs at idle without issue. As soon as I let the clutch out and give the engine some load it bucks and shows the errors below. I swapped the cam sensor with another this morning, also tried increasing the trigger filtering to '1', and still the same issue. I can't remove get to the crank sensor but looks bolted firmly in place and no evidence of wiring issues.

    LS engine, from memory it's 58x crank with 1x cam. Never had any trigger issues previously.

    Any thoughts on where to look next?
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    Last edited by neil_se; 08-07-18 at 08:52 AM.

  2. #2
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    I know it maybe a silly question but if you have a timing light does your idle timing match that of the ecu?


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  3. #3
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Don't have one with me unfortunately

  4. #4
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    Clues are: itís a haltech and a race car.
    A. your ecu is fine donít touch it - it was working before your earths shook loose.
    B. Is race car, all your shit is loose, go tighten up all the earth points.

  5. #5
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Change minimum rpm to 10000 in the home section and see if it runs properly. If it does then you have a cam sensor fault or chain skip.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  6. #6
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Cheers, will try that and check earths.

  7. #7
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Your reluctor wheel is no longer attached to your crank correctly.. been there done that...
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  8. #8
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Sounds about right, that's exactly what I was just looking up as my mate John (LS turbo HQ farmute) who i borrowed the sensor off mentioned it last night too. Will pull the headers, starter and sensor next weekend to check.

    Cheers for everyone's help, looks like I'm loading the trailer!

  9. #9
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    In before Butthurts/TURDMX62 haltech rhetoric.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  10. #10
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    This wouldn't have happened with a Microtech.

  11. #11
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    Carby time!

    Did you sort it?

  12. #12
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Needs more reliability, shopping for a rotor...

    Packed up and heading home.

  13. #13
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    racecars gunna racecar.

  14. #14
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    that trigger works perfectly to 9100rpm, ive tested in the rx3.. until the wheel moved... then it would work to 5000rpm and stop...
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  15. #15
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I pulled the pipes and starter off when I got home and the crank sensor bolt was a little loose (half a turn). I doubted it was enough to cause errors though but I tightened it up anyway and reassembled. Although I couldn't drive it anywhere it was still idling rough and the idle controller was working overtime to keep it running at around 24 degrees of timing, where it normally idles cleanly at 11.

    Any other ways of confirming the reluctor before I pull the engine?
    Last edited by neil_se; 08-07-18 at 07:09 PM.

  16. #16
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Pull the sensor out and use a mirror to look in the hole and see if the wheel is still on the crank..

    it will wobble when it moves..
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  17. #17
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    this was enough to stop it working correctly

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQYYvvDWrjY
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  18. #18
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I had a look in with a mirror earlier but didn't really have any idea what I was looking for or how loose the wheel was likely to be (whether I should try turning with a pry bar or something).

    Engine was likely to come out of the end of the year for dry sump anyhow...

  19. #19
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    I swapped in another crank sensor today and couldn't reproduce the error. I could only test up and down my 40m driveway so need to get it on a dyno for further testing.

  20. #20
    Į\_(ツ)_/Į burn is weird's Avatar
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    unlikely to be loose, but if you get someone to crank the engine while you're looking at the wheel turning it should have zero runout (wobble) and be dead centre in the sensor hole. if it's moved or loose its very unlikely to have zero runout.

    Oo___oO


  21. #21
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Seems a common thing with circuit LS'??

    http://www.ipraforum.com.au/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=11985
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  22. #22
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Closed forum so I can't view the thread Guido.

    I also can't view through crank sensor hole with the starter in place unfortunately!

    My auto elec suggested checking the output with an oscilloscope.

  23. #23
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    News from my tuners today wasn't so good, looks like the wheel has rotated about 14 degrees on the crankshaft.


  24. #24
    Chopped BigMuz's Avatar
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    That's kind of good news, at least you know what happened.

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    Retard Honour Wall.
    Quote Originally Posted by Sloth View Post
    Rob Sloth Young did i ask for your opinion? no. i only want it for a paddock bomb. go play with traffic.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles View Post
    you stupid fucken imbicle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Fondles
    your are a fucken idiot of the highest level.

  25. #25
    Registered User lukevl's Avatar
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    As Muz said itís always good to find the problem but it sucks that itís there in the first place

  26. #26
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Now I need to decide whether to remove it and repair for my next event in 7 weeks, or remove and dry sump but probably miss the rest of the season. Probably the latter since I'm not that well positioned anyhow and it's a bit tedious removing and re-installing the engine by myself.

  27. #27
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Put a trigger on the balancer and forget all the issues, Iíve got some wheels if you need one, get a high speed gt101 from efi hardware and all your problems will go away
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  28. #28
    Registered User neil_se's Avatar
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    Sounds like a good idea. I have an ATI 917279 balancer (172mm) and Peterson mandrel drive ready for the dry sump.

  29. #29
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    This would go between the 2 and move the manderal our 6mm
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  30. #30
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    I've got a spare high speed gt101 that I bought from efi hardware but never used, pm me if you want it. $50?

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