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Thread: Intercooler pipes

  1. #1
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Intercooler pipes

    I'm in the planning stages of the intercooler installation in my Supra and I have a n00b-tier question for some of the more knowledgeable types around here.

    OK so back in the day we'd weld bits of pipe together and join the various sections with rubber/silicone joiners and hose clamps. Nice and simple, but with the considerable disadvantage that they'd pop off all the fucking time no matter how much you clamped down the joiners, especially after you'd wound up the boost a bit (or a lot).

    So V band clamps are the new hotness. I like them and want to use them as much as possible. So to my question - in the old days the rubber joiners allowed for plenty of flexibility when the engine moves around under torque, but what do you do when using V bands? Is it still necessary to put a section of rubber in there somewhere, or are there better options these days? Please tell me it's the latter because I don't want to find myself fixing a popped intercooler hose on the side of the road ever again.
    Norbie!

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    most of the newer clamps give a bit of play in the joins but you'll want to plan their placement so they're only really seeing axial load on an engine using traditional rubber mounts. Not as much of an issue when you go with cotton reel mounts which gives less play in the engine.

    I've not had any issues myself with normal silicon, t-bolt clamps and bead rolled tube, but I've only really run up to 25psi. On a couple of my cars they have had quite a bit of engine movement too
    Last edited by jasonp1977; 05-02-19 at 10:27 AM.

  3. #3
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    I thought hard mounting the cooler piping and using the flex/hump silicon couplers was meant to fix them popping off [provided you werent running 40psi]



    These things

  4. #4
    Registered User Marlin's Avatar
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    Properly designed pipes with properly manufactured retaining rings on them, coupled with good quality hose and T-bolt type clamps don't slip off at all if installed cleanly and properly..... unless a significant amount of oil is entering the pipework.

    Used to see blokes fucking with cooler pipes allllll the tiiiime, but there was also an obvious (to me) reason why.
    Last edited by Marlin; 05-02-19 at 11:28 AM. Reason: borked grammar

  5. #5
    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    A bead rolled end and a decent quality joiner should not have an issue coming off at normal sub 30 psi boost pressures. Avoid using 90 degree joiners, it makes it a lot easier but they are the most common failure point, particularly on the hot side where you are seeing 150 degree outlet temps.

    Wiggins or other oring type couplers are great for a competition engine or a really high boost app but they are a fucking pita to assemble(wiggins particularly) and there is not much room for error in the fab process. They have a surprisingly large amount of movement, just turds to assemble if a true wiggins arrangement. The male/female oring style are much easier.
    David Fraser - Automotive Historian!

    Quote Originally Posted by bigmuz View Post
    You can't polish a turd but you can put 600hp in it and laugh your fucking arse off coming past someone sideways at Powercruise.

  6. #6
    I need more cylinders! nine2nine's Avatar
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    I've run up to 28psi on my Mazda just using 3" silicone joiners and normal worm drive hose clamps. The hot side just has two straights, and the cold side has a single 90 degree.

    The patrol runs up to 30psi and I had to t-bolt clamp the hot side as I blew a couple of hoses off, hasn't done it for years now. The cold side still runs worm drives as I've never lost a hose.

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  7. #7
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    some hair spray during assembly will solve any blow off issues (if you have them).

  8. #8
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    OK, so it sounds like silicone joiners can be fine. Just use good quality gear and don't be a spaz.

    Good to know, thanks guys!
    Norbie!

  9. #9
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Buy a bead roller thats made for piping and you will never blow hoses again. Use Murray clamps not tbolts or cheap worm drive clamps. 90's are fine on the cold side, buy good ones and they will hold 30 psi. Hotside they fuck out and split but I had a good run with a turbosmart branded bend.
    Last edited by dnegative; 05-02-19 at 01:05 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  10. #10
    Registered User gmx's Avatar
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    ^This. Stay away from Tbolts on Aluminium pipes especially. Tighten one, doesn't look round at all to the naked eye right? It will leak, or you will crush the pipe.
    I use Norma clamps or grab OEM clamps from euro F/I cars being wrecked/parted out for whatever reason. Except they're only suitable for bitch sized turbos and piping accordingly.
    These are expensive but good value for a constant tension clamp:
    https://www.normagroup.com.au/norma....CT_TORRO_EN_AU

  11. #11
    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Those cunts are good clamps, see them on euro truck radiator hoses etc
    Quote Originally Posted by cracka View Post
    Fuck I'm retarded

  12. #12
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    Wurth do a line of thin zebra hose clamps that seem to be pretty good for boost.

    T bolt clamps, yeah, half the time if you smoke test them, they'll be leaky, despite you thinking they're really, really tight. Benincas used to use straps between the tube joins on their builds to ensure no blow-offs in high boost situations.

    If spending a bit of money, Alphalocs are nice.

  13. #13
    infantile egomaniac CussCuss's Avatar
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    This is an interesting option as well, https://www.phase2motortrend.com/category-s/205.htm

    Not sure how they do in the real world though, seem to be quite cheap for what they are offering.
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  14. #14
    あなたの母親の肛門 Shifty's Avatar
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    Yeah biggest fail is not having proper rolled beads, and using unbranded/ebay hoseclamps. The next fail is poor fitting so the silicone is used to join up pipes that aren't lined up correctly (or the end of the pipe is still slightly curved so no flat mating surface), so are already under tension - so when the engine torques up their flexibility is already exhausted. Of course the engine torques hardest at the same time as boost ramps up so it is a bit of a combined sledgehammer effect on the joiners, gotta get it right as a result.

    Pro tip: Use me for advice & not pipe fitting, I will introduce all of the issues listed above.
    Last edited by Shifty; 12-02-19 at 07:52 PM.
    Quote Originally Posted by 350stato View Post
    100% agree with Shifty

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    Quote Originally Posted by CussCuss View Post
    This is an interesting option as well, https://www.phase2motortrend.com/category-s/205.htm

    Not sure how they do in the real world though, seem to be quite cheap for what they are offering.
    Ive had a car come in last week with them on it... They have quite a small adjustment range, it also felt like the tang wanted to push up and there was no feel to how tight you had the clamp as you did them up.

    I like the 16mm Breeze HighTorque hose clamps with liner. eg HTM-350L

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