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Thread: I suppose i'll need to buy a flat brim hat now...

  1. #31
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    Koya seem a popular choice amongst the 86 set. Iíve got Alcon brakes on dba 2 piece rotors and thereís heaps of room to the calipers.
    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  2. #32
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cliffordcliffs View Post
    Koya seem a popular choice amongst the 86 set. Iíve got Alcon brakes on dba 2 piece rotors and thereís heaps of room to the calipers.
    Cheers for the input - I'd previously just assumed Koya was a 'cheap' wheel choice, but is that a wrong assumption on their quality?
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  3. #33
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Adjusted the damper and rebound rate down to the mid-setting. It was set to the stiffest mode - because stiffer is faster right?!
    A good first step to improving the ride - it feels much, much better now.

    The next step is increasing the ride height once some C-spanners arrive in the post (it's on the lowest setting front and rear, and the roll centre is fucked as a result)
    Last edited by break; 10-03-19 at 04:15 PM.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  4. #34
    Mechanical 'Tard Cliffordcliffs's Avatar
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    I suppose i'll need to buy a flat brim hat now...

    Iím probably the wrong person to give Koya the tick of approval but Iíve seen them at QR a bit. I liked they were local and I told them the car, what tyre size and they worked out the rest for me. For semi custom made rims I was a bit disappointed they needed a few wheel weights to balance though.


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    "Beware the lollipop of mediocrity: lick it once and you'll suck forever" Brian Wilson

  5. #35
    Wanker MexicanBatman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by break View Post
    Cheers for the input - I'd previously just assumed Koya was a 'cheap' wheel choice, but is that a wrong assumption on their quality?
    i had P51 wheels on my mustang and they came in boxes marked with Koya, so im assuming they made them

    they were great, and unlike above, needed next to no weights to balance up, this is with a 305/30/20 PS4S tyre, i think max 20g per rear wheel, and the 305/30/20 20x11 rear set up was 6kg lighter than the stock 275/40/19 19x9 rear set up each wheel!
    Last edited by MexicanBatman; 10-03-19 at 07:53 PM.
    ..........

  6. #36
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    I'd been having issues clearing my driveway exit, and I'm not a fan of the whole 'stanced until your geometry is fucked' look - so it was time to fix the whole ride height stupidity.
    First I got the car up - which was bloody hard, as my low jack couldn't get under and i had to resort to planks of wood. Eventually, it made it up:



    Everywhere I looked, the suspension was set to 'max low':


    But with the car up, I could at least confirm a few things. It definitely has a catless front pipe:


    I also confirmed the wheels as being 18x8.5, but couldn't find any clear offset markings. Either way, i'll replace them soon with 18x8's in something lighter with some quality tyres.

    So in the sake of controlled adjustments, I picked 3cm as the number - and lifted the front and rear accordingly:



    And the result is no more negative camber on the rear, and a rear roll centre that now looks right (rather than the wheel end of the LCA being higher than the inner mounting point):



    So - great success in yet another step to slowly taking the carpark warrior out of this car
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  7. #37
    Former hairdresser Captain_Slow's Avatar
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    That's better.

    If you need any measurements etc from anything on a stock one, let me know.

  8. #38
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Captain_Slow View Post
    If you need any measurements etc from anything on a stock one, let me know.
    Cheers man, really appreciate the offer.
    The main measurement I need to resolve is what fits behind those brakes. Have lined up test fitting a few different sets of "18 5x100 wheel sets to hone in on what I need.

    Then it's onto oil coolers - which I'm trying to find out how the dual radiator/cooler combos perform compared to a traditional separate cooler.
    My thinking, is the separate is a better option - but i'll need to side mount it like this to keep the heat exchanger's air flow clean for the air-to-water intercooler.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  9. #39
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Today was supposed to be gearbox and diff oil day, but I realised both use crush washers that shouldn't be reused - so I put that on ice and moved on to fixing my bumper fitment, installing a Perrin intake I had laying around, and installing a whiteline gearbox mount bushing.

    Starting with the gearbox mount, the issue 86's have is the mount is hollow and has flex issues affecting shifting. First, I had to get in to the gearbox mount to remove it:


    Then with it out, you can see the before/after of the whiteline bush:



    While under there, also noticed the flex joint in the front pipe has kissed the ground a few times and will need replacing in the future.
    Another thing to add to the list when/if I do the headers/overpipe.

    Next I pulled the bumper to start working on the intake


    And got a good look at the mess the previous owner has caused thanks to his 'stanced' look



    Oh well, I can't see it from the front - so no real motivation to do anything about it right now.

    Next I ripped out the intake


    With the new intake, it has you space the radiator cooling plate further back, but it causes the leading edge to rub a little.
    I wasn't happy with it, so split a thin silicon hose down one side and used it as soft mating surface for the bottom edge


    Next it was onto fitting the bumper mounting brackets under the headlights. 86's are notorious for bumper sag around this area, and the options are either replace the brackets (what I'm doing) - and if that doesn't work (because the bumper tabs are too screwed) then you have to resort to aftermarket options. Given the OEM parts are cheap, I bought them hoping they'd do the trick


    They snap straight into place just under the headlights



    And with the bumper clipped all back on the sag is better, but still not perfect. It will have to do for now


    With the intake all in, the only adjustment I made was a zip tie to hold the MAF wiring further away from the auxiliary belt as a precaution.
    It was quite stiff and didn't want to move naturally, but I could stretch it to touch the belt - so didn't want to take any chances


    So what were the results?
    The gearbox mount hasn't created any perceivable change - but I was doing it as a preventative thing so i'm calling that a win.

    The intake is still nice and quiet on low/mid throttle (while the supercharger bypass valve is open) - but once I put some throttle in I'm getting a lot more audible supercharger wine and intake noise. The top end feels a little stronger, but for anything <5000rpm there's been no real change. As expected - so calling that a win.

    The bumper clips have improved the sag a little, but not to where I'd like. This is all rather disappointing, and the result of wear to the bumper mounting loops themselves. Given the state of the bumper as a whole, I think the best option is to keep an eye out for a clean replacement bumper in the factory red, and see if I can get that for a steal.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  10. #40
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    So after the whiteline gearbox mount insert went it, it highlighted how fussy the synchros are when cold.
    While up to date with factory servicing (last done Oct-2018), I doubt they've ever touched the drive train.

    Dropped the gearbox oil first... and thankfully no bits on the magnet, but the oil looked terrible.


    Replaced it with some fresh Pentrite 75W-85 GL4, which was rather painful to fill. My oil pump died, so had to gravity feed it with a length of thin tube connected to the bottom of my funnel - which took forever to get the full 2.3L into the gearbox.



    Did the diff oil too with some Penrite 75w-90 GL5 - but the coil that came out was actually very clean and the magnet clean so I didn't take a shot of it.
    I'm thinking it's been changed in the last 12 months.

    Went out for a drive - shift is nice and smooth, and all the synchro fussiness is now gone.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  11. #41
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    So the next maintenance item was the aux belt after it started slipping.
    I'm certain it's never been replaced since the previous owner fitted the supercharger in 2014 - so it was well overdue.

    Here's how it sounded at idle by the end:
    https://www.breakphoto.org/SITE/Toyo...Z6/i-FSmG72Q/A

    Which involved using these bits:

    Removing the air conditioning and alternator plastic covers:

    Uplugging the MAF from the air con cover in the process:

    Removing this heavily worn belt - with the ribs a good 30% thinner than my new belt due to wear:

    And using liberal amounts of this and swearing to get the new belt over the tensioner:


    And after 15mins of swearing, it sounded like this:
    https://www.breakphoto.org/SITE/Toyo...Z6/i-N28ZRvD/A
    Last edited by break; 02-04-19 at 09:49 PM.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  12. #42
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Car is back from the valve spring recall at Toyota - also got a new clutch from Direct Clutches, and a set of HKS spark plugs.

    Made a fool of myself driving it home stalling it a few times. The new clutch is very bitey, and has flipped the bite point from being very high, to now being very low.
    Will get that etched in my head over the coming days.

    Car feels a little down on power (felt this way before the valve spring recall), seems to be correlated with when I gave it to my father for a weekend.
    I'm thinking he's put some crappy fuel in there, so will run the fuel down as best I can and get some better stuff in there ASAP to see if that helps.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  13. #43
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Car went back with clutch issues - turns out there was a pressure plate problem, so the Direct Clutch guys sorted it out.
    Driving much better now.

    Power is good again after running through a tank of fresh BP Ultimate.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  14. #44
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    First mountain run over the weekend since the clutch was finally sorted - and decided to tag along with the 86/BRZ club (55 cars turned up - many of them as tragic as you might imagine)
    Pleased to say all working well, beyond the absolute ghetto tyres - which struggled badly in the damp valley leading up to Mt Glorious.



    Will sort the wheels/tyres out soon - pretty much settled on Koya 18x8 wheels, with some 235 RS-RR's
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  15. #45
    Registered User gmr's Avatar
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    Good read mate, they're a nice car regardless of the flatbrim crowd. Looks great in red

  16. #46
    Non Compos Mentos Gammaboy's Avatar
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    Was this at Cars and Coffee parked next to a Cosworth supercharged MX5?
    "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

  17. #47
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Gammaboy View Post
    Was this at Cars and Coffee parked next to a Cosworth supercharged MX5?
    Yep, that was it.
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  18. #48
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    So I've been playing with a 3D printer, and thought about some simple brackets to clean up the oversized front number plate holder:


    So I found a model to borrow/steal from Thingverse, and fired it off while I removed the factory bracket:


    I bolted up the new brackets:


    And voila - slimline look on the front for less than an hour of printing:
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  19. #49
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    Very clever!

  20. #50
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    This weekend I went hunting for the source of clicking from my rotors on high lateral load.
    This is my first car with full floating rotors - so it's been a bit of learning about the the challenge of getting the right torque on the bobbin, and ensuring the torque is even across them all.

    I thought I'd start with the simplest fix - which was clean the mounting surface of the rotor/wheel and re-torque, before I get caught up in the bobbins.

    So off came the wheels, and it wasn't too bad to be honest - with most of the gunk on the stud.
    Weirdly, there's a tinge of blue there that I first thought was lock-tight - but there wasn't a lot of resistance getting the nuts off. I then realised the wanky aftermarket studs were blue, and flaking off - so no real worry there:


    The wheels themselves looked clean enough too (for shitty wheels and hub-centric rings), these are how they looked straight off the car:


    Anyway - lots of scrubbing, rubbing, and brake cleaner later the surface was flat and felt good to the touch (looked a bit janky paint-wise, but it felt good) - so I put the wheels back on and re-torqued:


    So far so good - still some squeal when dead cold, but haven't managed to get any clicking yet after a few heat cycles (as best as I can on the street in a 1200kg car with brakes waaaayyyy too big for my needs)
    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

  21. #51
    Registered User break's Avatar
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    First time out to the skidpan today - really showed my lack of experience in sliding a RWD car with little consistency throughout the day.
    That's what you get when you've been driving an Evo for the last 6 years and are used to ezy-mode slides.

    Oh well, got to start somewhere.

    Obligatory skid pic of my old car. New car skid pics tbc

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