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Thread: EP3 Civic Type R vtec yo

  1. #61
    Registered User Marlin's Avatar
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    Yeah thatís intriguing. Does adding a litre of oil after the full mark fix them like non-GTR Skylines?

  2. #62
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    I asked on a UK forum and 9/10 people said get the sump. A couple had been tracking with r compounds with no issues but Iím pretty cautious so if I really feel a need to take it to the track Iíll probably get it done. The parts are $300ish and probably a couple hours of labour so not a huge commitment for something that could save an engine.

    In other news, I had the hard race rear camber arms and SuperPro front caster bushes fitted this week. Front bushes were a PITA and it took them a number of hours. Steering has a lot more weight/feel to it off center now, it self centers a lot easier and is generally more stable. Thereís still a touch of weird play in it but I donít feel the need to go any deeper into it at this point. It serves the purpose on a windy road. I also spent an hour tuning the dampers on a bumpy Adelaide hills road last week. There was far too much rebound, particularly in the rear. Turns out previous owner had the full sick track set up (i.e. wound all the way up, as you do). Handling is a lot less skittish now and the car is significantly more comfortable. I landed on 26/32 clicks up front and 24/32 clicks on the rear. These really are a cracking car on a windy road when set up properly.

  3. #63
    Registered User lonewolf's Avatar
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    first thing i did with my dc2r converted EG was put some baffles in, its cheap insurance

  4. #64
    Registered User Stevil's Avatar
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    I had a baffled Fd2R sump on my k20/24, always ran atleast 250ml of oil over the top mark. High speed sweepers at very high rpm like down at Winton can kill a bottom end......

  5. #65
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    ^^^ even with the baffled sump you still overfilled? The bend has 3 consecutive high speed right handers so if I decide to go out there Iíll do the sump.

    Switched to an OEM front end this weekend. A young lad from Melbourne wanted my Mugen grill and lower lip and was so keen that he drove over to Adelaide with a friend to bring me his OEM gear. His bumper etc was in much better condition than mine (I was upfront with this) so I was quite pleased with the deal. I got to swapping it on as soon as he left. All in all about 2 hours work but well worth it. To me the car looks so much cleaner now and a tad more mature. My OCD has improved too because the old bumper had some splits where it mounted to the guard and the lip was poorly attached in general. The OEM one fits perfectly.

    Before with Mugen lip and grill


    During the swap (this car really is a piece of piss to work on)


    After



    I also came across a second hand Gruppe M intake that was around 50% off of new cost so I snapped it up. These are regarded as the most efficient intake for the DC5/EP3 due to their fully enclosed design and ram air effect of the intake scoop which mounts just in front of the windshield. Should sound good and add a few extra killer wasps.



    There is also a Mugen N1 ECU that Iíve had my eye on. People either love this ECU or hate it. Itís locked so canít be remapped but the mapping is supposedly very nice. The fact I wouldnít need to put my trust in a local tuner is a bit of a drawcard in my eyes but will give this some more thought before pulling the trigger.
    Last edited by spiller; 23-06-19 at 11:00 PM.

  6. #66
    Registered User lonewolf's Avatar
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    be careful with the JDM n1 stuff, in older generations they were really tuned to the limit for 100ron+ fuel - i'd bite the bullet for a K-pro or Hondata or whatever the K20 hotness is

  7. #67
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    ^^^ a mate ran one on his DC2R and never had a problem but I admit Iíve heard mixed reviews.

    Spent the weekend fiddling around with the Gruppe M intake. The intake has a little ram air scoop that sits at the base of the windscreen and feeds air directly to the box which sits at the back of the engine bay. Because of this, it requires a different scuttle panel with a cut out for air flow. Unfortunately the Gruppe M one is pretty shit. After fitting it up the first time, the panel was vibrating loudly against the windscreen and the intake box banging against the panel in the engine bay, both transmitting a lot of noise into the cabin.

    Off to bunnings to experiment.



    I shoved a bunch of 5mm thick adhesive foam on the inside of the scuttle and on the back of the air box, along with some heavy duty velcro so that the air box is now wedged against and locked into the scuttle. Also used the same velcro on the scuttle to lock it to the windscreen and this has got rid of 99% of the noise. Given this intake is about $1300 new (a lot in the Honda world), I was surprised to learn that rattles and knocks are the norm with it.



    Iím pleased with how it looks in the engine bay and the sound when vtec kicks in is very cool. Most of all Iím a bit shocked at how much of a difference itís made the mid/top end. Noticeable torque and Hp increase, vtec hits harder and it feels like quite a rapid little thing now.

    I also dropped the coilovers down about 10mm on the front and 5mm on the rear for aesthetic purposes and had the alignment re-done. The coilovers donít seem to have much height adjustment range at all but Iím happy with how it sits now. I can feel the roll centers have been thrown off a bit in the front with the drop so some roll center adjusters are on the cards I think.



    Next on the list is brake rotors, pads, lines, a drop in sump baffle, some roll center adjusters and poly inserts for the engine mounts. That will have it track ready. Long term will be a remap with Hondata but Iíd like to do something with the stock cat converter and maybe piss off the Mugen twin loop exhaust before doing that. The Mugen exhaust is great because itís very quiet but the design is very restrictive.

  8. #68
    Registered User lonewolf's Avatar
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    i had a twin loop and regretted swapping it out - had great tone and a straight through muffler made it noisier (but sounded worse) and made no more power
    Not sure if its restrictive on a K20 though

  9. #69
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    I run a Elise with K20a swap as my track car. I run the clockwise baffled sump and always fill to the twist on the dipstick. If the oil is down below the twist I get low oil pressure warnings at each of the Bend, Winton and the Island. So best to make sure its "overfull" if tracking.

  10. #70
    Registered User I'm DJ!'s Avatar
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    There's a supercharged one of these on carsales which is making me feel warm and fuzzy. Anyone know the car?
    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    The fact they want to ban cash makes me want to go out and use it full time again now .


  11. #71
    Registered User spiller's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by lonewolf View Post
    i had a twin loop and regretted swapping it out - had great tone and a straight through muffler made it noisier (but sounded worse) and made no more power
    Not sure if its restrictive on a K20 though
    I do love the fact that it makes almost no noise. Some place in the UK did a back to back dyno run of a twin loop versus Fujitsubo RM01A and the Fuji made 7 more horsepower. Hardly much to write home about but I figure by the time you go header and high flow cat all of them will be a fair bit louder. On that topic, the factory header on this car looks pretty bloody good. Itís a 4-2-1 design with nice long runners. Iím surprised that quite a few people upgrade it because thereís probably stuff all gains to be had in doing so.

    Quote Originally Posted by Clockwork View Post
    I run a Elise with K20a swap as my track car. I run the clockwise baffled sump and always fill to the twist on the dipstick. If the oil is down below the twist I get low oil pressure warnings at each of the Bend, Winton and the Island. So best to make sure its "overfull" if tracking.
    Thatís very interesting and Iíd estimate youíre adding about an extra litre of oil to get to that mark? Must be a lotus issue (I had a cup 240 and itís clearly a more capable chassis than the EP3), as the civic race cars run this baffle with no issues. Or maybe theyíre all just overfilling as well. Having said all of that, I was going up Eagle On The Hill the other night after fitting the new intake and noticed I could not hear vtec engage when it should have during the middle of a corner.

    Quote Originally Posted by I'm DJ! View Post
    There's a supercharged one of these on carsales which is making me feel warm and fuzzy. Anyone know the car?
    I know the one youíre talking about, itís in QLD. Description is a bit wanky and the seller is dreaming with his/her 22K FIRM price tag. Itís worth 15K at best. Itís a pre face lift and frankly no one with 22K cash in hand is looking to buy an EP3.
    Last edited by spiller; 04-07-19 at 11:54 PM.

  12. #72
    Clubman CXTdreamer's Avatar
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    Had a thought, do you have a stock exhaust for Regency? I've still got the original exhaust off mine sitting around, I'd rather give it to someone that might have a need for it than chuck it out
    WWPBD

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  13. #73
    lurker since 02 Reax's Avatar
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    Love what you are doing. Never really been a honda person but it does look like a great little car. Makes me wonder why this https://www.carsales.com.au/cars/det...-6171044/?Cr=0 seems cheap.
    "It takes beer to make thirst worth while."

  14. #74
    wot sware's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spiller View Post
    Thatís very interesting and Iíd estimate youíre adding about an extra litre of oil to get to that mark? Must be a lotus issue (I had a cup 240 and itís clearly a more capable chassis than the EP3), as the civic race cars run this baffle with no issues. Or maybe theyíre all just overfilling as well. Having said all of that, I was going up Eagle On The Hill the other night after fitting the new intake and noticed I could not hear vtec engage when it should have during the middle of a corner.
    It's not just a lotus issue, my k-swap integra (with clockwise baffle) always sees a drop in oil pressure on left handers without the oil level being 10mm over the full mark. I believe it's because all the oil disappears into the timing cover, which the clockwise baffle does nothing to mitigate, so I'll try something like this baffle next time I have the sump off. This is oil pressure on a lap around PI:


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