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Thread: Current hotness for ECU input sensors (air/coolant temp, fuel/oil pressure)

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Current hotness for ECU input sensors (air/coolant temp, fuel/oil pressure)

    On the race car i had Bosch sensors, but they were all AN fittings etc. Looking for something in standard NPT/BSP fitting, but with decent reliability. I remember people talking about a range of sensors over the years, but not much long term feedback on reliability.

    What is the go these days? Still the GM stuff for air/coolant?
    Chris
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    Founder Nick's Avatar
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    Honeywell MLH for fuel and oil.

    I use MLH150PSB06A for both oil and fuel. They are ethanol safe and sealed so no leaks if it breaks. About 170 kangaroos from Digi-Key. Just be sure to order the plugs too and Holden no longer stock them.


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    depends on what you want to spend, but I'm a fan of the T1 "Fast Response" sender for air temp, about the best you'll get in a sensor like that for speed, downside is it's 1/16 NPT: https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/product/t1-fast-at/

    If customers dont want to spend up on the T1 Fast Response sender for air temp, then I typically use one of these: https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/pr...r-temp-sensor/ which can be sourced locally for $20-30 minus the plug/pin kit.

    For fluid pressure I've been using the Tyco "Measurement Specialities" senders on most builds lately, nice compact size and a decent price: https://adaptronic.com.au/collection...ressure-sensor

    The TI 150psi sender used to be my "go to" for every build but the lower cost of the Tyco tempted me their way. I've not had any failures with either of those sensors, some of the cars have done 100,000km+ and been on the road for 10 years since the original build. In the setups I've done they're not remote mounted with braided hose either, just mounted straight into the fuel rail/reg/engine block etc.

    I would like to use the bosch combo pressure/temp fluid sensors but they're metric thread so don't suit most of the stuff I do: https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/pr...rature-sensor/
    Last edited by jasonp1977; 25-04-19 at 11:39 AM.

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonp1977 View Post
    If customers dont want to spend up on the T1 Fast Response sender for air temp, then I typically use one of these: https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/pr...r-temp-sensor/ which can be sourced locally for $20-30 minus the plug/pin kit.

    For fluid pressure I've been using the Tyco "Measurement Specialities" senders on most builds lately, nice compact size and a decent price: https://adaptronic.com.au/collection...ressure-sensor

    The TI 150psi sender used to be my "go to" for every build but the lower cost of the Tyco tempted me their way. I've not had any failures with either of those sensors, some of the cars have done 100,000km+ and been on the road for 10 years since the original build. In the setups I've done they're not remote mounted with braided hose either, just mounted straight into the fuel rail/reg/engine block etc.

    I would like to use the bosch combo pressure/temp fluid sensors but they're metric thread so don't suit most of the stuff I do: https://www.t1racedevelopment.com/pr...rature-sensor/
    Who is doing those sensors for $20-30, that looks ideal for what i want.

    Those Tyco sensors look good too, as do the Honeywell ones. I suspect though that anything at that price point will be of roughly the same quality. Just wish more would do an integrated pressure and temp sensor like the Bosch one, that would be very useful.
    Chris
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    Can't find my old bookmark for the cheap supplier, but EFI hardware have them close to that range: https://www.efihardware.com/products...-series-18-bsp, many of the different ECU brands rebadge the same sensor

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jasonp1977 View Post
    Can't find my old bookmark for the cheap supplier, but EFI hardware have them close to that range: https://www.efihardware.com/products...-series-18-bsp, many of the different ECU brands rebadge the same sensor
    Ah nice

    Are they Deutsch DTM compatible? Or is it a different but similar connector?

    Edit. Looked on the desktop and not on mobile and it says DTM 2 pin. Silly mobile site.

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    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
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    I used a Bosch temp / pressure sensor for my coolant.

    I have 4 Honeywell MHL series pressure sensors for my transmission, oil and fuel pressure. I also use a Honeywell fuel temp ES120 series sensor for my transmission as it was really compact.

    My air temp sensor was one I bought from Haltech, think it's GM.

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    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Honeywell if you want reliable IMHO
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    Registered User JZK25's Avatar
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    Those DTM air and coolant sensors are great until you try and undo one and they shear off.

    None of the TI or Honeywell sensors are reliable unless you spend $100s mounting them remotely which you should not have to do. May as well buy china copies.
    OE stuff like the pressure/temp sensors is more likely to continue working than the "MotorSport" sensors that are actually shit designed to be screwed on the side of manufacturing equipment in a pineapple cannery.

    Buyer beware.
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    Registered User dnegative's Avatar
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    Problem is all the good OEM sensors that will hang onto the side of a harsh as fuck diesel engine for decades and not fuck out are in weird thread sizes.
    I would recommend OEM Volvo and Scania sensors but who has a engine block tapped to m14x1.5 for engine oil pressure?
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    That's Sir Cunt to you... krisr's Avatar
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    I took the gamble with chinabay sensors. 3 years on they still go strong. Have 0-100 for oil and fuel pressure, 0-300 for trans line pressure and 0-30 for coolant pressure. Temp sensors are just normal GM closed element sensors. Run one in the trans sump, oil remote and water crossover. For the price of them I just keep spares. Usual disclaimer, YMMV.
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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZK25 View Post
    Those DTM air and coolant sensors are great until you try and undo one and they shear off.

    None of the TI or Honeywell sensors are reliable unless you spend $100s mounting them remotely which you should not have to do. May as well buy china copies.
    OE stuff like the pressure/temp sensors is more likely to continue working than the "MotorSport" sensors that are actually shit designed to be screwed on the side of manufacturing equipment in a pineapple cannery.

    Buyer beware.
    So you reckon the old faithful GM air temp sensor like they used to supply with older Haltechs?

    Probably going to remote mount the pressure sensors anyway after the pain of having an Autometer oil pressure sensor break off in the block from vibrations.

    Quote Originally Posted by dnegative View Post
    Problem is all the good OEM sensors that will hang onto the side of a harsh as fuck diesel engine for decades and not fuck out are in weird thread sizes.
    I would recommend OEM Volvo and Scania sensors but who has a engine block tapped to m14x1.5 for engine oil pressure?
    M14 is a pain. Any recommendations on OEM oil and fuel pressure in 1/8NPT?

    Quote Originally Posted by krisr View Post
    I took the gamble with chinabay sensors. 3 years on they still go strong. Have 0-100 for oil and fuel pressure, 0-300 for trans line pressure and 0-30 for coolant pressure. Temp sensors are just normal GM closed element sensors. Run one in the trans sump, oil remote and water crossover. For the price of them I just keep spares. Usual disclaimer, YMMV.
    Interesting, they do look quite attractive on price, even if it just for the connector.
    Chris
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  13. #13
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    Temp is an inherently stable measurement device, it's a resistive element. That means the basket style air temp sensors which look like a blob in a cage are going to be very reliable, as is a coolant or oil temp sensor.

    A pressure sensor is less stable due to the complexity of the measurement element. They all require some form of moving part such as a diaphragm and electronic differential measurement. Rigid mounted to the engine with the haltech supplied sensors is not recommended, same with most Denso or Bosch MAP sensors (typically found on the bulkhead).

    Mounted properly they last forever. Mounted poorly they may last forever. Cheapies mounted poorly may last forever. It depends on the vibration and it's axis to the sensor I suspect.

    The cheap Chinese style often don't deal with ethanol, and tend to drift over time. They Honeywell/haltech/adaptronic sensors are rock solid calibration wise.
    Jason Broadhurst

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    Registered User my limp penis's Avatar
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    I'm using the Bosch temp/pressure in one for fuel, oil and coolant, highly recommend.
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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by my limp penis View Post
    I'm using the Bosch temp/pressure in one for fuel, oil and coolant, highly recommend.
    How are you dealing with the M14 fitting?
    Chris
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    Registered User [RX3]'s Avatar
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    Assume he is using the same as me, they are m10 x 1.0.

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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Same question then, especially given that the pressure ports on the BP will be 1/8 NPT.
    Chris
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  18. #18
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Drill and tap or just remote mount
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    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by PLAYA View Post
    Drill and tap or just remote mount
    Given that oil and fuel pressure/temp will both be taken off AN adapter fittings that really isnt an option.
    Chris
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    \_(ツ)_/ burn is weird's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    Same question then, especially given that the pressure ports on the BP will be 1/8 NPT.
    https://www.efisolutions.com.au/stra...ic-m10-x-1.0-p

    Oo___oO


  21. #21
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by burn is weird View Post
    Ah nice, that solves it. I was only finding the reverse. i.e.: https://outlawspeed.com.au/shop/au2265
    Chris
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  22. #22
    Registered User Norbie's Avatar
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    Goleby's sell the Bosch sensor with a range of adaptors to suit, if that helps:

    https://www.golebysparts.com.au/stor...erature-sensor
    Norbie!

  23. #23
    Registered User my limp penis's Avatar
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    Yep, M10x1.0

    Alternatively, M10 actually fits remarkably closely to 1/8" BSP - other than it's not a tapered thread. You can run the M10x1.0 sensors, with a bit of thread sealant, in that fitting without issue.
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  24. #24
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    So, these Bosch sensors. How are they for vibration resistance?

    Planning on one for oil pressure/temp, but with remote mounting it relies on capillary conduction for temperature, rather than full flow. But to get it in flow it will need to be block mounted...
    Chris
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  25. #25
    BLING BLING PLAYA's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by takai View Post
    So, these Bosch sensors. How are they for vibration resistance?

    Planning on one for oil pressure/temp, but with remote mounting it relies on capillary conduction for temperature, rather than full flow. But to get it in flow it will need to be block mounted...
    Remote won't work
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  26. #26
    Purist, whats that? Jason Broadhurst's Avatar
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    They wont work for temp remotely.
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  27. #27
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, thats what i thought, hence asking about how they do for vibration.
    Chris
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    For the temp sensor you can just use the old faithful Bosch 0 280 130 026 which is the coolant temp sensor used in just about everything. They are 12x1.5 so you'll need to tap your sump or weld on a bung. They are happy to live on thermostat housings so heat and vibration are not really an issue. I like to get the 90 boots for the plugs so that you can keep the wire well supported to prevent vibration fatigue, Steve at EFI Hardware has these.
    The Bosch 0 261 545 xxx range of sensors are OEM diesel direct injection jobs so I assume they are reasonably well tested for vibration and so forth, but I have my oil pressure remote mounted because a failure is going to be fucking ugly.
    If anyone is planning to use the Bosch 10x1mm sensors for brake pressure - FYI it's hard to find a good fitting that has sufficient thread depth for the sensor, all the aftermarket brake adaptor things don't give enough thread engagement.

  29. #29
    sack riding 10sec rx7's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JZK25 View Post
    Those DTM air and coolant sensors are great until you try and undo one and they shear off.

    None of the TI or Honeywell sensors are reliable unless you spend $100s mounting them remotely which you should not have to do. May as well buy china copies.
    OE stuff like the pressure/temp sensors is more likely to continue working than the "MotorSport" sensors that are actually shit designed to be screwed on the side of manufacturing equipment in a pineapple cannery.

    Buyer beware.
    use Teflon paste on the 1/8 sensors not locktight or superglue and they come out easy as pie..
    ive never had a Honeywell sensor fail, I have sensor on my car that are 12 years old and still going strong, ive only ever had 1 TI fail as well..
    im a cunt
    and apparently i dont know shit...

  30. #30
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Ive already ordered the pressure and temp sensor, so i reckon ill just run it inline on the turbo oil feed with an AN fitting and soft mount it to the firewall behind the head.
    Chris
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    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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