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Thread: Mazda BP-Z3 turbo selection

  1. #1
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Mazda BP-Z3 turbo selection

    Hey guys, while I'd still like to squeeze as much time out of the homo-mobile as possible with it N/A, realistically I will be adding a snail in ~ 12 months so I'd like to start piecing together bits.

    The motor is a 2003 VVT Mazda BP-Z3, so 10:1 compression. The requirements are as follows:

    * internally standard motor
    * max of 250rwhp only
    * must be budget friendly
    * must be reliable (as in circuit reliable)
    * must be snappy with a decent power bound

    Currently I am thinking an OEM Nissan S15 T28 would probably fit the bill. I'd like to limit boost to no more than 15psi. I'd prefer to keep it on 98, however if there's significant reliability to be had on E85 I'd run 2 boost settings & flex fuel. I'm looking to run the Nitro Dann manifold and dump pipe, Haltech Elite 750 with plug 'n' play adaptor, Inconel studs, generic intercooler, upgraded radiator and some bonnet venting.

    I'm not interested in big power options, the whole idea of this car is cheap fun, once gearboxes need to be factored in there's just too much scope creep. And a 1000kg car with a real 220-250rwhp should be plenty quick for a circuit thrasher. Heat management/reliability is a big concern too. The car will end up being used in endurance events, ideally no more than 15psi.

    Is there any other turbos I should be considering?
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  2. #2
    Registered User PXL265's Avatar
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    When you decide on turbos and if you go the T28 I have a few lying around that won't be doing anything now that Prod Sports changed the rules for turbo cars.

  3. #3
    Registered User mad_cow's Avatar
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    Easy done with a t28rs
    Did it on about 14psi on a unopened bpt
    Last edited by mad_cow; 26-04-19 at 03:39 PM.

  4. #4
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    GT28RS will work a treat.

    Look at the Kraken manifolds over the Dann ones.

    Rods will probably go first.

  5. #5
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    At what point to rods go?
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  6. #6
    Registered User mad_cow's Avatar
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    On a bpt over 250hp is getting close.

  7. #7
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Yeah, consensus is around 250hp. After rods then generally oil pump is the next weakest link.

    Pistons have been known to go with far less though, although that is probably tuning issues.
    Chris
    ------
    The new nugget
    I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    I'd have though revs would be a greater killer than boost?

    So looks like my ultimate power target is the upper limit. It all depends on what the thing actually makes, but maybe something like 10psi on 98, 15 on e85.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  9. #9
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido View Post
    I'd have though revs would be a greater killer than boost?

    So looks like my ultimate power target is the upper limit. It all depends on what the thing actually makes, but maybe something like 10psi on 98, 15 on e85.
    Yes and no.

    The BP engine has been boosted and blown up for many many years and for every “went pop at 220hp” there’s a “300hp stock internals” story.

    That said, rods, pistons and all the main failure items are relatively cheap easy to go 250-300hp at which point the rest of your driveline will be an equal issue.

    Also remember with a BP-26 (original BP turbo) which still had “weak rods” compared to a B6 Turbo they still took 14-18psi with too much issue.

    Honestly, don’t overthink it, put GT28RS on it, tune it well and don’t lean on it for numbers and you’ll probably not break anything if the engines good to start with.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  10. #10
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Aaron View Post
    Yes and no.

    The BP engine has been boosted and blown up for many many years and for every “went pop at 220hp” there’s a “300hp stock internals” story.

    That said, rods, pistons and all the main failure items are relatively cheap easy to go 250-300hp at which point the rest of your driveline will be an equal issue.

    Also remember with a BP-26 (original BP turbo) which still had “weak rods” compared to a B6 Turbo they still took 14-18psi with too much issue.

    Honestly, don’t overthink it, put GT28RS on it, tune it well and don’t lean on it for numbers and you’ll probably not break anything if the engines good to start with.
    This.

    If you are taking the engine apart then rods pistons and a billet oil pump are cheap.

  11. #11
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Mazda BP-Z3 turbo selection

    Oh and remember the original BPT builds used the factory ECU with a bleed valve on the two stage boost and fuel pump control, and an adjustable rising rate regulator. If you’re lucky they hadn’t thrown the Knock Controller away, or hadn’t melted the knock sensor. Oh and crank the dizzy to advance the timing

    Owning an early BPT that’s been “modded” just like that I am 100% sure that most of the failures are from taking the factory turbo that ran out of puff at 16-18psi and replacing it with one that makes 18psi all day long and not having any real ability to tune it is what causes many many failures.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  12. #12
    Opens Guido's Avatar
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    Ok cool, cheers. The limiting to 250hp max bit was to keep the 6 speed intact. I'm very mindful of the fact this car is meant to be cheap and reliable. The current motor is quite strong, so I guess its just a case of me not getting greedy.
    Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

    My Italian 510

  13. #13
    What's that whooshing? Aaron's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Guido View Post
    Ok cool, cheers. The limiting to 250hp max bit was to keep the 6 speed intact. I'm very mindful of the fact this car is meant to be cheap and reliable. The current motor is quite strong, so I guess its just a case of me not getting greedy.
    Yep. The motor is cheap to replace if you pop it, the gearbox isn’t.

    With you plans for proper tuning and non-ghetto thinking you’ll be fine.

    I swear every time someone talks about their BPT explosions more than half the time you’ll scratch into the engines history and find some truely genius thinking like “I taught myself to solder making my megasquirt” or “I got the turbo from the dumpster behind a Subaru workshop”.

    Neither of those are bad things but they’re and insight into other shortcuts or misssteps that may have occurred.
    ---
    Shed Project: 1994 Laser Lynx with BP-T

  14. #14
    Bannered takai's Avatar
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    Quite a few BP4W + turbo failures around 250hp though with decent tuning. I would peg it as the roughly average rod failure point.

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