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Thread: eBay racing 04 k24a1 Cr-v Manual

  1. #61
    Registered User irsa76's Avatar
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    Throw a shot of gas at it for more fun/carnage?

  2. #62
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    Yeah something about mine maybe only vtec on one cam or some shit. I think vtec and cam profiles will not be an issue for what Iím chasing .


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    Yeah thats what wikipedia reckons atleast. 119kw, I-vtec on intake cam only. Seems to be similar to the old d series vtec-e motors. Vtec for econo purposes

  3. #63
    Registered User Mr Purple's Avatar
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    Yep. My brief research led me to believe the $1k extra youíd spend on the fancier VTEC head alone could be more than compensated for by all of one PSI more boost.

  4. #64
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Yeah pretty much, more boost fixes all.

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Purple View Post
    Yep. My brief research led me to believe the $1k extra youíd spend on the fancier VTEC head alone could be more than compensated for by all of one PSI more boost.
    Agreed.

    Pump fuel knock limited is more my issue. Setting up for e85 but want to try pump first . Might just water inject it as e85 is a pain in the rectal area.


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  6. #66
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    for manifold, a k series flange + steam pipe bends will cost you around $200....know anybody with a welder?

  7. #67
    Boldy going nowhere rolin7's Avatar
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    Water Injection is definitely the go if daily driving it. Bit of a sting in the anoos for the premium kit (Aquamist), but a one off cost against the wasted effort and stuffing around of E85 for a daily drive.
    Pain is temporary, quitting is forever - Lance Armstrong (drug cheat)

  8. #68
    Registered User Stevil's Avatar
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    I Vtec and T25 on my old 1.8 Civic meant 260nm from fuck all revs, only made 147kws on e85 up from 88kws atw stock, 7psi too.

    I'd imagine you should be able to get an easy 210 to 220kw at very low boost.

  9. #69
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    Quote Originally Posted by rolin7 View Post
    Water Injection is definitely the go if daily driving it. Bit of a sting in the anoos for the premium kit (Aquamist), but a one off cost against the wasted effort and stuffing around of E85 for a daily drive.
    Yeah I can piece together my own pre-turbo Pnuematic kit cheaper than buying a kit anyway . (Used Same style riceracing one on my old s2 rx7 with 410rwkw on 98)




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  10. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stevil View Post
    I Vtec and T25 on my old 1.8 Civic meant 260nm from fuck all revs, only made 147kws on e85 up from 88kws atw stock, 7psi too.

    I'd imagine you should be able to get an easy 210 to 220kw at very low boost.
    Yeah Iím shifting my goals to 300-400whp .


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  11. #71
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    Overall update - decided on gt3076 plain bearing .

    I will also be using the stock header and making a 1.5inch or 1 3/4 inch steel crossover pipe to the ďsidewinder ď location . Then bracing the turbo using the factory aluminium vertical airbox support .
    That will give very good room and routing for gate and turbo 3 inch exit too.

    I can weld etc so welding isnít an issue , i gasless everything anyway cos Iím a lazy Kent . Pro welder sluts will get so upset when u see this manifold and stuff being made out of exhaust pipe and gasless mig


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  12. #72
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  13. #73
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    Picked up my ecu from storage . Itís plug and play as you can see.



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  14. #74
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Red is power, youíre welcome
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  15. #75
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Red is power, youíre welcome
    Nah bro, last car I had it it I just bought a roll of red from supercheap and extended half the loom so red could be injector , could be earths, could be crank triggers. Thatís the exciting part.


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  16. #76
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    Started scoping all the cam and crank sensors, Also took the airbox out to suss out turbo room and measure voltages at the tps/map/coolant sensors and pinout all the engine sensors . So far so good.

    Will need about 17 wires to make it run in total. 3 cut lengths of 7 core trailer wire should do nicely .



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  17. #77
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Not a lot of room for a dump
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  18. #78
    Registered User Euronymous's Avatar
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    Thats not a problem, just go out the bonnet.

  19. #79
    Compulsive modifier awdmoke's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thebluerx7 View Post
    Will need about 17 wires to make it run in total. 3 cut lengths of 7 core trailer wire should do nicely . [

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    Yellow is for the left indicator.

    Don't cut the blue wire!
    Lots of minis & mokes including a G13b powered Sports Sedan, a couple of Swift Gtis, a Goggomobil, Porsche 928S, Polo Gti, BMW 540i, a WRX and a few others.

  20. #80
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Not a lot of room for a dump
    I will move the heater hoses to make some room for that . May have to move the loom Also


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  21. #81
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    Spent a few hours today wiring in the splice joints for the adaptronic . Have got injectors /crank/cam/cam2/12v/earths all in.

    Will try and power up the ecu and run it on the stock ecu and see if the adaptronic is reading rpm from the sensors correctly . Iím not doing any of the final wiring or cuts until I get a stable rpm reading in the adaptronic first.


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  22. #82
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    Fail. Tried to jump the signal wires only of each crank and cam sensor. Engine running and it shows zero rpm .

    Sooooo, I guess I will have to splice connect the 5v and ground for each sensor paired to the factory 5v and ground .

    Itís also showing no map or tps so I assume they all have the same issue with none of the adaptronic 5v or grounds connected either .

    I really thought signal only would work since the factory power and earths are powering up the sensors .


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  23. #83
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    Map and tps fixed . Still no rpm though



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  24. #84
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    Got signals into the ecu and the car runs on stock ecu and yet the e420c shows zero rpm , I have scoped the ecu at the pins and itís got the same signals there.





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  25. #85
    Opens ALLMTR's Avatar
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    Had a bit of a look around for bits I can donate to the Honda cause. Iíve got a fuel pressure gauge and a turbosmart Kompact blow off valve. I was sure I had a spare walbro pump and will have a better look tomorrow

    The only fmic I have is 600 x 300 x 100
    I own a two and a half litre Commodore

  26. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by ALLMTR View Post
    Had a bit of a look around for bits I can donate to the Honda cause. Iíve got a fuel pressure gauge and a turbosmart Kompact blow off valve. I was sure I had a spare walbro pump and will have a better look tomorrow

    The only fmic I have is 600 x 300 x 100
    ThanksWill let you know if I need to use any of it. Wonít need the BOV as i donít use them anyway .

    Need to get rpm first . I fucking despise setting up triggering. Iím using a map supplied by adaptronic and it donít show rpm, will have to take it to work tomorrow and picoscope the sensors and email them a snapshot .



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  27. #87
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    Tried everything , 0rpm, grounded cas ground to sensor ground , no difference .

    Fucked if I know, I give up.


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  28. #88
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    "With Hall effect or optical sensors, sometimes the combination of pull up resistors in the MegaSquirt and stock ECU can interfere with each other. If this happens, one or both of the ECUs will not get an RPM signal. Often, you can solve this by removing the pull up resistor from the MegaSquirt."

    You have the option to turn off Adaptronic pull up resistor?

  29. #89
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    Quote Originally Posted by crack View Post
    "With Hall effect or optical sensors, sometimes the combination of pull up resistors in the MegaSquirt and stock ECU can interfere with each other. If this happens, one or both of the ECUs will not get an RPM signal. Often, you can solve this by removing the pull up resistor from the MegaSquirt."

    You have the option to turn off Adaptronic pull up resistor?
    Yeah I have read the exact text you posted but I canít turn it off. Wouldnít have a clue how to remove it from the ecu either.


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  30. #90
    . crack's Avatar
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    remove OEM ecu trigger & home pins, crank motor and check for Adaptronic rpm? if so then you're prob fkd.

    does the OEM ecu even need rpm (i.e. wire adaptronic stand alone and leave OEM ecu powered up)?

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