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13's for 1300 Maverick-The Space Ghost

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    #61
    Got it going finally, still running the 1bbl carter carb that came on it for break in.

    Carb's too lean, but we can richen it up at idle enough to run up to 2400ish RPM. Needs some jet work above that, and it was already dark. Maybe next work day.

    Here's the two videos taken.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PdXBNe3-52k

    Fired right off to start the 20 minute break-in. (no, it did not. fought us for an hour to get it to run more than 2 minutes in a go!)

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vYXDz7hvebs

    More as it happens.

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      #62
      Gonna fix my "carbs's too lean" problem today!

      it only has one jet so I got that bitch some jets, bitches love jets.

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        #63
        S'ok, you can't just drop extra jets into the float bowl of a Carter YF 1 barrel and expect it to work.

        Bolted up the turbo, got the 2-barrel Ford Autolite carburetor on, and after fighting with seriously bad vacuum leaks, it runs. It runs *badly* but it runs. Turns out the O-ring between the compressor housing and backplate was missing, and it was sucking a LOT of air and leaning out the fuel mix, causing insane intake backfires.

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u32mgGTFIIA

        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A40sEzyV35Q

        Some modification to the carb plenum is needed, and I need to re-flatten the carburetor mounting flanges since we literally blasted the carby off the car last week.
        Last edited by Xnke; 04-11-20, 01:29 PM.

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          #64
          Jeebus those aren't carby jets, they're freaking airliner jets. Thats massive!

          Are the back fires from fuel puddling in the inlet plenum?

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            #65
            Nah, they're from a PEBKAC error when programming the ignition controller.

            I forgot to make sure when I was setting the base timing, to include the "100kpA" line in the base timing, so when we needed to dial in 26 degrees of initial timing to get the engine to run, the 100KpA line was still at the default 12 degrees. That's why during cranking, when there is minimal intake vacuum, it bangs and pops and fumes hot vapor out the exhaust, but as soon as the engine catches and actually starts running it runs fine. After changing the ignition map to correct for that the problem has gone away and it starts and only pops flame out the exhaust.

            It's currently idling between 11.5 and 13.5, around 1100RPM, in Park/Neutral. When it drops into Drive, the idle speed gets dragged down to 400-500RPM and it stalls and dies. The solution is to neutral drop the thing into drive at 2500RPM and 4PSI boost, then the engine stalling is no longer a problem.

            Yes, it will currently make 4PSI at 2500RPM with all the extra fuel from the slightly too big PCVR's acting as secondary enrichment. Bangs and snaps lots of flame out the ~3ft of 3" exhaust pipe too.

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              #66
              Sheared transmission input shaft off today.

              Neutral drops were not a permanent solution...needs a looser converter to fix the idle issue.

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                #67
                Found a spare input shaft so we're back in business. Still gotta find a looser converter.

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                  #68
                  Got answers back on a looser converter, 5 quotes, all over 1000$.

                  Time to build my own.

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                    #69
                    Got it running again, drilled the main jets from a 53F to 79F, which is equal to a Holley Jet size


                    Anyway, here's today's improvement after drilling the jets, setting up the power valve, and figuring out that the turbo dynamic seal isn't gonna do the job. I've got a carbon seal plate in the works to fix that leak and get it right.

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3wiv8SHkWHo

                    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NYqT0s2RBh8

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                      #70
                      Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                      It's currently idling between 11.5 and 13.5, around 1100RPM, in Park/Neutral. When it drops into Drive, the idle speed gets dragged down to 400-500RPM and it stalls and dies. The solution is to neutral drop the thing into drive at 2500RPM and 4PSI boost, then the engine stalling is no longer a problem.
                      Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                      Sheared transmission input shaft off today.

                      Neutral drops were not a permanent solution...needs a looser converter to fix the idle issue.
                      Look for an old Isuzu and grab the idle throttle controller motor. It will jump the throttle about 50-100 RPM to keep idle when in gear. Goggle doesn't find me an example unfortunately.

                      Damn Al and his Carbys don't need tuning comment...

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                        #71
                        We tried adjusting idle speed from 450RPM up to 2500RPM in increments, no matter where we set the idle speed, the best we could get was just a tire chirp and a stall, or the car would rock forward and die immediately. (Other than neutral drop abuse, which clearly wasn't working.)

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                          #72
                          if the converter being to tight is an issue now, regardless of rpm. why wasnt it before the turbo? or am i missing something obvious?

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                            #73
                            Cam swap. Went from 188* duration cam, to 278* duration cam. 0.360" lift to 0.490" lift.

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                              #74
                              Originally posted by MRMOPARMAN View Post
                              Love that alum hack. Id never heard of it either.

                              Do you need to run a carbon seal in the holset?
                              Originally posted by Xnke

                              Nah. It'll suck a little oil, but the dynamic seal works well enough that for draw-through service it'll be fine. Oil changes will need to be regular, lest we blow the pan clean off the block when I burn a hole through #5.
                              Well that came back to bite me in the ass.

                              Yeah, it's gonna need a carbon seal, but that won't be toooooo hard. I hope.

                              Comment


                                #75
                                Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                                Cam swap. Went from 188* duration cam, to 278* duration cam. 0.360" lift to 0.490" lift.
                                yep, that'll do it.

                                if trying to source a carbon seal is too hard, what about running it blow through instead? shouldnt be to much more of a fuck around.

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