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13's for 1300 Maverick-The Space Ghost

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    #76
    Would have to adapt intake from 1 hole to two hole carb, fit carb in box, redo the exhaust, etc. Not too big a problem, but the carbon seal is just machining a new thrust collar and a seal plate to fit the holset. Holset turbo seals have a removable plate that holds the actual seal in, so it's not too hard to adapt them.

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      #77
      ah ok, fuckin get to it then!

      but i guess in the grand scheme of this lovely vehicle turbo issues are of a lesser consequence then the "multi-piece" input shaft and the tight converter that creates them.

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        #78
        Originally posted by Xnke View Post



        Well that came back to bite me in the ass.

        Yeah, it's gonna need a carbon seal, but that won't be toooooo hard. I hope.
        Im keen to see how you go about it. I've got a hx40 id like to carbon seal too at some stage. Not many really play with holsets in Australia.
        Originally posted by Rdyno
        70ynu has to be the most retarded cunt here. "Help me please" me "you need to remove your head" him "fuck off cunt I'm to lazy fuck off out of my thread you told me to do something I don't want to do so you're a cunt fuck off can some one please tell me an easier way???"
        Originally posted by Tripper
        Its a tight battle between you and rogercordia for the most retarded member on here, thou i think you have it by 5 window licks

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          #79
          I can also ask the the old boy who rebuilds the turbos at my work if he has any info on it. as some of the stuff runs large holsets, if you guys are keen?

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            #80
            Basically, pop the dynamic seal plate out as if you'd be replacing the main thrust bearing, make a new thrust collar to replace the one that uses the dynamic seal, and make a new seal plate that holds the carbon seal button. That'll be it, just have to find a carbon seal with the correct ID/OD/Thickness to work with

            T4 size seal is pretty fuckin' close though, I'm waiting on one to arrive.

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              #81
              fair enough.
              any progress on this bad boy?

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                #82
                Not yet. Need Ernest to pull the turbo back off and bring it to the big shop, so I can make the carbon seal holder.

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                  #83
                  Haven't made the carbon seal holder yet.

                  DID acquire a 2.0l Ford Pinto torque converter, which fits perfectly on the transmission and the flexplate, but does not have a ring gear fitted. This is the loosest factory converter we can find, and is supposed to stall up at 3500-4000RPM behind the 2.0L pinto engine, and we estimate that it should stall up around 2800-3000RPM behind the inline 6.

                  Now, all we gotta do is get a ring gear onto the converter to engage with the starter motor-the original has the ring gear on the converter, but none of the other options have one. Also, no normal flex plate fits either, so we are kinda stuck building one.

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                    #84
                    I would have thought if anything the bigger motor would push more revs against it?

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                      #85
                      Generally, any inline 6 engine will stall a converter lower than either a 4 or 8 cylinder engine. I have no idea why this is, and I have limited experience with it, but that's what happened with the first ieteration of the 300-I6 engine build.

                      With the 300-I6, and C6 transmission, using a converter rated to stall up at 4500RPM actually produced a 3200RPM stall speed, but then the same converter and transmission put behind a 351W engine stalled at 4400RPM. The company that built the converter told us this would happen, and said it's a general rule for converters used behind inline-6 engines.

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                        #86
                        That's interesting. Must be a phase angle of oil flow in the converter thing?
                        Last edited by Slides; 28-03-21, 04:13 PM.

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                          #87
                          I have no idea. I could build a basic converter, but as far as optimizing it or truly understanding the details, I'm in the dark.

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                            #88
                            Originally posted by Xnke View Post
                            I have no idea. I could build a basic converter, but as far as optimizing it or truly understanding the details, I'm in the dark.
                            You're alive!

                            Good to read you are progressing with this.
                            Sent from my shed, trapped under a collapsed QuickJack, via Tapatalk

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                              #89
                              Updates.

                              Got the pinto converter, ring gear, and flexplate on the workbench. As is, just stacked up, the ring gear is 7.25mm too close to the engine block, and it ain't gonna move further away. BUT! the automatic transmission and manual transmission starters have a different engagement distance off the back of the block...and wouldn't you know it, the manual transmission starter needs the ring gear moved 9.5mm closer to the engine block than the automatic transmission starter. We have an auto starter now. If we mount a manual starter, and I just weld the stack the way it is, it would *work* but would not be optimal engagment of the starter.

                              I'm thinking make a new flex plate, weld the ring gear onto the flex plate, and use the manual transmission starter. This will enable any pinto converter to work-which opens up a LOT of stall converter and aftermarket options!

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