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1995 4runner RV6 - Norbie bought a fourby

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    #61
    Sick
    Do people still do engine conversions with factory ECUs or will this be getting a Haltech/etc?
    #WHOTW award winner #blessed #susanalbumparty

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      #62
      I'll try to stick with the factory ECU assuming it's one of the ones with the trans ECU built in, and I can make it work with the 4runner transmission. But a Haltech down the road is definitely a possibility, especially if I decide to do something silly like a rear mount turbo.

      I pulled the tailshaft out today, it's the first time I've ever done that without needing to jack up the car first. It's so much easier this way!

      The good news, it seems to be in pretty good shape. I think the front uni has a bit of wear in it and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it, but it doesn't seem too bad at all.

      The bad news, the wobble I found in the tailshaft isn't coming from the tailshaft at all, it's coming from the back of the transmission. I made a quick video, not too sure how easy it is to see what I'm talking about:



      I think it's safe to assume that this isn't good, and explains the drivetrain vibration I'm experiencing at speeds above 60 km/h.

      How boned am I? Is this an easy fix, or new transmission time?
      Norbie!

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        #63
        Tighten the nut up.
        Originally posted by brewdles
        In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

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          #64
          Judging by the diagrams (I hope that link works) it could just be a simple bearing replacement. 90363-30046 looks to be a plain deep groove ball bearing, take that rear housing off and inspect.

          I had a similar wobble in my landcruiser output flange, thought it was just the rear housing bearing and got a replacement. However when I got it, it was a taper bearing and inside the housing was stacked shims to set the preload. Fucking nightmare trying to get that shit right under the car. Yours does not seem to be like this.
          The Slowly IS300

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            #65
            Thanks guys. I was going to pull the flange off last night but it was getting dark (I'm doing this outside the shed due to various other things going on at the moment) so I'll have another go tonight and see what I can find.

            I had a quick look on ebay and it seems I can get a replacement seal and bearing pretty easily. Fingers crossed it's something simple like that!
            Norbie!

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              #66
              So I had a look at the output flange today, and it took me about 3 seconds to figure out something was up:



              Yeah that nut wasn't even finger tight. I'm not sure why someone staked it while it was that loose - or maybe this happened because the seal behind it collapsed and opened up a gap? I don't know, the seal did look pretty ordinary though.

              Anyway for now I just tightened the nut very slightly and all the play in that flange has gone. I'm glad it was as simple as that (or at least appears to be), but I'm still going to get the universal joints replaced just in case.

              While I had the vehicle up on the hoist I tackled the fuel filter. I've never seen a worse arrangement in my life - it's literally impossible to disconnect the fuel lines without dropping the giant crossmember that holds the gearbox + transfer case up. I spent ages trying to figure out a way to do it because I didn't believe it could be this stupid, but no, it's impossible to do it any other way. Exactly why the fuel filter needed to be in that location is beyond me, there's miles of room under the car where access would be easy as pie! Luckily it's not a huge chore to drop the crossmember when you have a hoist, but I still got a petrol shower because the filter is lower than the fuel tank so you can't prevent it from pissing fuel everywhere while you change the filter. I scrubbed for ages in the shower but I still reek!

              Not much left to do now - I'll tackle the transmission cooler install tomorrow, and then I have to figure out how to change the front CV boot. I can't even see how the driveshafts come out, so I guess I'll have to find a repair manual or something.
              Norbie!

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                #67
                I decided to pull my finger out and get some work done on this thing over the weekend. First job was to install this transmission cooler:



                My original plan was to attach it to the back of the bullbar, but I changed my mind - I figured this would make it a pain to take the bullbar off in future. I noticed there were a bunch of captive nuts under the radiator support so I decided to make use of those. Time for some brackets:



                And here it is installed:



                I was planning to attach the top of the cooler to something but it's actually quite secure like this so I'm going to leave it for now. I'll revisit later if it becomes a problem.

                I also did some smaller jobs including replacing the flasher relay with a LED friendly one, and that involved taking some of the dash apart which revealed all sorts of "interesting" wiring from previous owners. In the process of tidying up/removing some of that I found this thing:



                Any ideas what it is? My best guess is it's something to do with a previous alarm install but I don't really know.

                Yesterday I removed the front left axle shaft so I can replace the torn boot. It was a pretty messy job so didn't get any photos, and it took way longer than expected because of the amount of stuff you have to disassemble before it will come loose. Anyway it's out now but I'll be fucked if I can figure out how to get the CV apart so the boot can come off. I was thinking about sending it to a shop to get it done but then I found this:

                https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123464641791

                Yes that's a complete shaft for under a hundred bucks, which isn't much more than buying a pair of replacement boots, and if I'm paying a shop to install the boots this will almost certainly be cheaper. Can anyone think of a reason why I wouldn't just buy a pair of these, throw them on the car and call it a day?
                Last edited by Norbie; 19-07-21, 08:17 AM.
                Norbie!

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                  #68
                  Some bad news regarding the drivetrain vibration I've been chasing down. I thought I'd solved the problem earlier when I tightened the nut on the output shaft flange - that certainly made the flange stop wobbling around while stationary. But I wanted to see it spinning, so I started the engine and put it in gear, and this is what I saw:



                  That flange very obviously isn't running true and I can't figure out why. Is it possible I have a bent output shaft somehow? WTF is going on??

                  I'm getting the tailshaft back today so I'll be able to install it and see what happens, but I have a strong suspicion the drivetrain vibration will still be there.
                  Norbie!

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                    #69
                    Flange is probably not on right, doubt the shaft is bent. Take it off and have a good look at the mounting surfaces.
                    get lead like a leader

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                      #70
                      The flange slides onto a big spline, the nut holds it in place... not sure what I could be doing wrong?
                      Norbie!

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                        #71
                        Originally posted by Norbie View Post
                        Any ideas what it is? My best guess is it's something to do with a previous alarm install but I don't really know.

                        Yesterday I removed the front left axle shaft so I can replace the torn boot. It was a pretty messy job so didn't get any photos, and it took way longer than expected because of the amount of stuff you have to disassemble before it will come loose. Anyway it's out now but I'll be fucked if I can figure out how to get the CV apart so the boot can come off. I was thinking about sending it to a shop to get it done but then I found this:

                        https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/123464641791

                        Yes that's a complete shaft for under a hundred bucks, which isn't much more than buying a pair of replacement boots, and if I'm paying a shop to install the boots this will almost certainly be cheaper. Can anyone think of a reason why I wouldn't just buy a pair of these, throw them on the car and call it a day?
                        First one is a glass break sensor for an old alarm.

                        As to the axles i replaced both on my Hilux with Cozza parts. Worked out a treat, and so much easier than rebuilding and replacing boots. Im keeping my old axles to rebuild later as IFS Hilux/4Runners with lift kits tend to tear boots because of the increased axle angles. Later on down the track you might want to do a front diff drop to correct CV angles.

                        Also OAP do a 2 axle set: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/132928677077 which is eligible for the PLUS12OFF code code.
                        Last edited by takai; 19-07-21, 12:05 PM.
                        Chris
                        ------
                        The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
                        I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

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                          #72
                          Originally posted by takai View Post
                          First one is a glass break sensor for an old alarm.
                          Thanks, I've never seen one of those before!

                          I wound up ordering a pair of axles from my local Autopro, it's a fair bit more expensive than the ebay options but they'll have them here by 8am tomorrow whereas it would be a bit risky relying on aus post to get me my ebay parts on time. I'm leaving for Bribie Island first thing Saturday morning so time is of the essence!
                          Norbie!

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                            #73
                            Originally posted by Norbie View Post

                            Thanks, I've never seen one of those before!

                            I wound up ordering a pair of axles from my local Autopro, it's a fair bit more expensive than the ebay options but they'll have them here by 8am tomorrow whereas it would be a bit risky relying on aus post to get me my ebay parts on time. I'm leaving for Bribie Island first thing Saturday morning so time is of the essence!
                            OAP are pretty good, and based out of Brissy. I normally get bits next day or second day from them.

                            Also, while you are in there its not much more to pull the hub and regrease the bearings.
                            Last edited by takai; 19-07-21, 02:56 PM.
                            Chris
                            ------
                            The MX5 Noujet (its up market) | The Hilux Complete Nugget
                            I never saw a wild thing sorry for itself. A small bird will drop frozen dead from a bough without ever having felt sorry for itself. - D.H.Lawrence

                            Comment


                              #74
                              Originally posted by Norbie View Post
                              The flange slides onto a big spline, the nut holds it in place... not sure what I could be doing wrong?
                              In the video it looks like the shaft is running true, but the whole flange is wobbling. It could be a piece of something jammed between the inside end of the flange and the shoulder of the output shaft, or maybe a burr on the spline causing it to take a false set. I'd take it off completely and have a very close look over it all.
                              Originally posted by Marlin
                              Chickens will slip under water in the cover of darkness like a seal team and FUCK YOU UP.

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                                #75
                                Originally posted by Faux Forg View Post

                                In the video it looks like the shaft is running true, but the whole flange is wobbling. It could be a piece of something jammed between the inside end of the flange and the shoulder of the output shaft, or maybe a burr on the spline causing it to take a false set. I'd take it off completely and have a very close look over it all.
                                Thanks, I'll have a closer look tomorrow. I also notice you can get replacements pretty easy so I might do that.
                                Norbie!

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