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Porsche 944 turbo road to racecar.

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    Originally posted by 333pg333 View Post
    I can get all the replacement parts in f/g but this would apparently disqualify me from Prod Sports.
    What does that mean? I would have thought the car was way to modified for Prod Sports long ago. A class perhaps.
    The most dangerous risk of all - the risk of spending your life not doing what you want, on the bet you can buy yourself the freedom to do it later. - Randy Komisar.

    Comment


      That car was /is nowhere near 2F Compliant.

      8"or 9" max rim width ,depending on weight...tyres...holes in the body...pedal location etc.

      2F Regs are basically a direct copy of the 3J Improved Production Regs in Touring Cars.

      Would have been wiser to read the relevant Regs prior to starting the build & build it to comply.

      Very sad to see the "incident" though.
      ........................................

      Suzuki Mighty Boy / BEC Rear Mid mount Suzuki 1150cc 450kg Hillclimber [in the build]

      Comment


        Damn! Bloody T1 at EC is evil and cursed!
        All the best in getting it back on track
        Lightning is at my discretion - don't fuck with me

        Comment


          2B or now perhaps Sports Sedans in which case the rules are way different. Nevertheless, I'm not so concerned about wheel to wheel racing at the moment.
          Some feedback from the Engineer. Knew something was up.....


          Hi Patrick
          I’ve been analysing some of the data in more detail and what I have discovered is the following.
          We have been using 45mm of rear damper travel at the track. This probably equates to around 70mm of wheel travel.
          Unfortunately the car needs to have more droop travel through some of the higher G force turns. The inside rear wheel is lifting off the ground, this is the jacking effect that Paul was talking about, at the time we thought it was being caused by too much rebound damping and we removed some.
          Factory setup have the droop controlled by the bolts retaining the outer torsion bar bush, your application probably has the rear droop controlled by a spacer above the piston within the damper so some damper or rear suspension setup mods will be required before the next outing.
          If you look at the data particularly suspension position [position each corner in a new graph on the page] you will see that the lr suspension pots flat lines during some corners at around -22.
          At this time the rear wheel is starting to lift of the ground and the rear will start to become unstable.
          Your video also confirms this as you have to correct your line on entry , you were travelling 16 klms quicker than the previous lap and the gpsmap shows you wider on entry before the apex which all added to the event.
          The rear end appears to be rolling more that the front but a more accurate measurement of motion ratios would be required before you could call this a fact.
          Everywhere that the lr suspension starts to bounce off the full droop point is where you were complaining about a lack of rear grip so we need to rectify this before next outing.
          If there are no spacers within the damper then we may need to get extended rose joints, Im a bit surprised that this has occured given that you bought the dampers to suit this application.
          Mark
          Rsport Race Engineering
          http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...lenge-accepted

          Comment


            That's shitty news mate.

            Lifting a rear wheel off the ground is plausible and would make the thing awfully unstable but turn one wouldn't be the highest lateral g corner would it unless you had massive balls?

            Comment


              Damn

              I just came across this and bad luck mate, you seemed to be driving sensibly.
              It seemed to happen very early in the corner, almost at the transition so I'd suggest low pressure on the outside wheel. Its almost to early in the corner for the inside wheel to be lifting

              You already know you over corrected and on that note, one of the best things I bought for my car was a low ratio steering box. I know this is to late.

              Hope it works out for you.
              Originally posted by Mr Purple;
              What is with that smell every time you walk into an Aldi?

              I'm assuming it's something to do with all the cardboard boxes. Smells like eastern Europe, the fall of communism and peasants.

              Comment


                The limited travel thing on the rear wheels certainly could be the main factor.
                I drove Nero's car at the Cootha Classic a few years ago and he warned me in advance about the same problem with that car. I could feel it happening as I drove it so I allowed for it but I could still feel it trying to move around.

                Comment


                  There is definitely a bit of head scratching going on from me and a few others who are familiar with this build. Seems very odd that there can be a wheel pick up on such a long constant radius corner and the suspension 'kit' was made for this model car. A few more bits from the engineer:

                  Please see attached screen capture. Unless the rear wheel managed to hold at exactly the same height for over a second on each of the three ocassions as you turned in I would beleive my comments to be correct. I think the wheel lifted on entry and you were a victim of the grip slide shimmey senario on entry to the corner which caused your mid corner correction and subsequent running wide on exit. I'm not saying that the rear shock has definitely bottomed out but something has definitely stopped suspension droop at that point, the most likely senario is that the shock has runout of travel but regardless the situation needs to be reveiwed to see what has caused the suspension to stop its travel and cause wheel lifting at that point.
                  Please note if you look at the capture you can see a similiar trait in the right rear shock as you leave the track at about the same level of droop.
                  The 'grip-slide shimmy' is when the rear end grips and then slides and requires steering correction to maintain line through the corner.
                  Attached Files
                  http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...lenge-accepted

                  Comment


                    A certain Italian make has torsion bars and is famous for lofting the front inside like an old Lotus Cortina when you uprate them. I think the fix, where there's no rules to follow, is to enlarge the upper wishbone aperture and fit coils around the shock, as no amount of pre-loading the bar, making adjusters and so forth will fix the compromises....and they're a darn sight easier to swap. As said though, little idea what's in a 944 rear. After 30 years you'd think the set up hot ticket would be well known.

                    Edit: Never can see attachments on this forum!

                    Comment


                      Originally posted by gxxr View Post
                      A certain Italian make has torsion bars and is famous for lofting the front inside like an old Lotus Cortina when you uprate them. I think the fix, where there's no rules to follow, is to enlarge the upper wishbone aperture and fit coils around the shock, as no amount of pre-loading the bar, making adjusters and so forth will fix the compromises....and they're a darn sight easier to swap. As said though, little idea what's in a 944 rear. After 30 years you'd think the set up hot ticket would be well known.

                      Edit: Never can see attachments on this forum!
                      They still loft a front wheel with coils.
                      "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by 333pg333 View Post
                        There is definitely a bit of head scratching going on from me and a few others who are familiar with this build. Seems very odd that there can be a wheel pick up on such a long constant radius corner and the suspension 'kit' was made for this model car. A few more bits from the engineer:

                        Please see attached screen capture. Unless the rear wheel managed to hold at exactly the same height for over a second on each of the three ocassions as you turned in I would beleive my comments to be correct. I think the wheel lifted on entry and you were a victim of the grip slide shimmey senario on entry to the corner which caused your mid corner correction and subsequent running wide on exit. I'm not saying that the rear shock has definitely bottomed out but something has definitely stopped suspension droop at that point, the most likely senario is that the shock has runout of travel but regardless the situation needs to be reveiwed to see what has caused the suspension to stop its travel and cause wheel lifting at that point.
                        Please note if you look at the capture you can see a similiar trait in the right rear shock as you leave the track at about the same level of droop.
                        The 'grip-slide shimmy' is when the rear end grips and then slides and requires steering correction to maintain line through the corner.
                        What is the highest G left hand corner on the track?

                        Does the RL damper flatline there as well? Do you have the full trace?

                        Comment


                          If it's not running out of travel could the big bump at T1 plus excessive amounts of rebound dampening plus that side being unloaded explain it? Or perhaps something binding in the rear suspension?

                          Comment


                            pull the springs out and run it through the full travel, will tell you if its binding
                            Tow car/camping bus: 2011 D40 Navara ST

                            Baby mobile: 2016 Nissan Qashqai

                            75 Mini Clubman club racer - DCOE powah

                            Comment


                              Yes, need to pull everything off the car and measure. Does seem odd if they have provided the wrong kit somehow. Wonder how I'll go getting compensation out of a Dutch suspension company that's been bought by some other outfit in the interim....yeah, that's what I thought too......
                              http://www.speedhunters.com/2013/12/...lenge-accepted

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by Gammaboy
                                They still loft a front wheel with coils.
                                One I'm thinking of just didn't swap from torsion to coil. Was noticeable better around Bitupave at Amaroo with the roll centre off the ground....moved through non complying means for the competition it was involved in, although OK to the casual scrutineer if I remember correctly!

                                Speaking to Rex Broadbent at the v8 round the other week where he was crewing for his old nav in prodsports, although better known as a rally guy now, quite an accomplished circuit driver. He mentioned he does a variety of Porsche set-ups, probably quickly tell you which way to go....but I guess there's still a way to go before it's working again.

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