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    Wow, just wow.

    Props to Propbits. I sent an email to Propbits for some K nuts, having not heard back, I rang them and explained and that perhaps the email had been regarded as spam and wasn't in their inbox, left my order and mobile No. over the phone. 2 minutes later they ring back, yeh nah, your email order had been processed and sent, yesterday. In 2019 name me another business that sends your order before you've paid for it. No, I don't have an account, I've dealt with them only twice before for even smaller orders. I was gobsmacked, and humbled. Click image for larger version

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    " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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      Hmm a bit of a close call for Collingrove today, a grassfire in the area threatened the track for a period there but it was quickly brought under control and the threat was averted..
      " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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        Given the pursuit of a proper race engine has gone cold at the moment. I'm starting to think about a bit of a built engine. Now this is entirely against the build philosophy, which was to use a largely stock engine + boost to get some HP.

        I think a large part of the motivation is the fact that we seem to be restricted to the standard rev limit, 7800 rpm, beyond that and we get into valve float and we broke a retainer. So I guess the first thing should be retainers and valve springs. How will the standard valves hold up to the stronger springs and extra revs?

        There seems to be a conversion to BP solid cam followers, so I guess that would be a smart way to go as well, I have no idea how hydraulic followers cope with higher rpm's, and they'd have to be heavier anyway.

        The other thought was to swap a short stroke crank into the engine, it loses a couple of hundred CC but will slow the piston speed down and reduce load on the conrods, or do I just spring for a set of rods and nice pistons instead?

        There is a short stroke engine at U-Pull-It ...might go and fetch the crank and rods from it.....
        " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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          Roy,
          wouldn't it be better to go with the longer rods, get some shorter and lighter pistons and keep the extra cc of the crank you have now? Also with the new pistons you can get the combustion chamber shape and compression just where you want it?
          It's still an over square engine with the longer stroke and a steel crank so the it can't be that bad for revving can it?

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            Funny, I just spoke with Ben, the wise man, and he was very much of the same opinion......

            " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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              Bloody hell! I spent the entire day in the shed working on mounting a caliper on a rear upright and at the end of the day it still wasn't quite right! It is awfully close, indeed too close......I trust tomorrow I will get it sorted, just right. Then have to start on the other side.....
              " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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                Further progress on the bakes today..... Click image for larger version

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                " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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                  Looking good.

                  Very jealous if you abilities in the shed

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                    Motor problems herewith resolved

                    https://rmsothebys.com/en/auctions/f...ne-2002/834711
                    Mit freundlichen Gre

                    Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                    "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                    Comment


                      LOL you're not the first person to link me to that......
                      " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

                      Comment


                        Ps I’ve been down the short-stroke-long-rod-mega-rpm route. Don’t do it. You can’t replace lost capacity with rpm. Well you can, but it gets very spastic very quick for no good reason. Fat capacity, instant boost, sensible redline... Twincharge for example
                        Last edited by doctor ed; 29-11-19, 06:50 AM.
                        Mit freundlichen Gre

                        Originally posted by Keith Duckworth
                        "I think that in a racing engine, the closer it is to disintegrating, in general the better its performance will be "

                        Comment


                          Yes, wise Ben has dissuaded me from doing that. Indeed, the first thing I should be doing is to sort out the ignition, so the spark isn't being blown out !! It seems that Honda CBR 1000 COP's are the go for the Mazda engine....then I need to look at valve springs retainers and collets for some more revs.
                          " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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                            Really?? I run those COPs on my Mazda BP and they don't recommend any more than 12psi on them before they break up.

                            Just go to LS coils. Cheap and zappy.
                            Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

                            My Italian 510

                            Comment


                              Hmmm 12 psi, well that would be no good. Thanks for that Guido. LS1 coils had been considered, but there was a desire to try to tidy up the look of the engine while I was at it, perhaps I'll have a look see how the Echo/Yaris COP fits....
                              " Racing cars don't have doors. Toilets have doors" : Keke Rosberg

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                                I think I've mentioned before, mate has a set of turbo cams for the engine, he'd probably let go cheapish - solid lifters needed no doubt. Don't think there's too much issue with valves breaking from springs, but normally most builders use new valves anyway and the ones I know normally work with blanks. Unless you replace the rubbish rods first for high rpm work, wouldn't spend a cent on any of that stuff though and just use pick-a-part engines and replace as needed.

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