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VN Group A Race Car (round 2 of the V8's)

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    #46
    Wait & save for an LS2, see if you can find one with less than 150,000K's on it.

    Freshen with rings, bearings & ARP rod bolts - open up bearing clearances a little - .0025-.0028" on the mains, .0023-.0026" on the rods, you may need 1/2 a set of HX bearings to get there.
    Use the 243 heads that come with an LS2 - they will not produce as much top end HP as the rectangle port heads, but will produce a stronger TQ curve & be more drivable. A reco on the heads with good valve job, stock valves, mild port work & mill to get to 12.5:1 comp is all that is required.
    Cam around 238/242 on 109 centres - none of this wide lobe centre bullshit.
    You may need to eyebrow the pistons for piston/valve clearance, can be done by hand with a die grinder, or send to SPS & have them do it, or buy new slugs that already have valve reliefs.
    Add good springs, pushrods & trunion upgrade for the rockers.
    Run on E85.

    Ditch the stock intake & use an edelbrock victor jnr with a 4 hole TB - much better transient response & more top end into the bargain.

    Grab one of those cheaper dry sump kits I linked you to, cheapest upgrade you'll do (in that it'll save you building another motor).
    By the time you buy a good sump etc you're 1/2 way to the cost of the basic kit.
    Another option is to buy dry sump bits second hand & make your own - but it never seems to work out much cheaper that way, all the little shit like drive, pump mount, pulleys & lines end up costing more than they would if you bought a kit & it comes out only a little cheaper.

    Almost every failure I've seen in an LS circuit engine has been oiling related, you can build it reliable without a dry sump, but it's not much cheaper, dry sump is good insurance.

    It won't be the cheapest engine, but it will be reliable & fast enough to not be cursing the lack of HP.
    I've got a couple built just like that, they make 320-330rwkw & run hard.

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      #47
      But thats $20k
      Originally posted by 50RTD
      Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

      Comment


        #48
        Originally posted by Dogsballs View Post
        But thats $20k
        This

        8k motor
        2-3 k dry sump
        6-7k gear bag

        Plus all the rest....

        I love club racing, can't handle the dollars.

        Comment


          #49
          Cheap, fast or reliable. 2/3...

          Comment


            #50
            My original budget was way under that. I will go with the 6.0l motor.

            I emailed the dry sump guys. But no reply as yet. I can get my sump modified by my mechanic. And buy an acusump. Should work out cheap enough and hopefully work.
            NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
            NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
            VP 293KW- P.I 1:43.8 WNTN 1:33.5

            Comment


              #51
              With the accusump. Just do what vett guys do in the states.

              I pretty much, force oil back into the oil pump, gears.

              Comment


                #52
                My LS drysump was about $900 total
                GURU ENGINEERING PTY LTD

                Comment


                  #53
                  Originally posted by gtrboyy View Post
                  Holmart still got one for 7k also 2 other joints on ebay all in Vic.

                  If you want NSW arse reaming try Eagle Autoparts.
                  Tried both them and they told me no, and just had a look on Holmart Website again and no good...

                  Comment


                    #54
                    I saw one on Holmart I thought, or eBay.

                    I finally caught up with the guy across the road, he has a really neat VL Calais with a 6.0l conversion built as a burnout/cruise car. He wants $18k for the lot. But it has a lot of good stuff, so if I can part out the bits I don't need and sell the car minus motor and box. I should get out of it for around $10k or less. He said he spent $2k or so on the cooling system, $3k on the fuel system, etc. Ceramic clutch, 6 speed. And the motor is built not long ago with forged bottom end. It only has a HSV cam, something to do with rego. Made just shy of 300rwkw's. Not sure what a good VL Calais is worth minus it's motor and box. $6k? It's bright red and silver. Original 5.0l car.
                    The best part is I just have to walk across the road and pick it up. And it has everything I need. No sourcing conversion kits and bits and pieces. So will speed up the process. And being a newly built engine with maybe 2000km's it should last a lot longer than a wrecker motor with 150,000km's.
                    NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
                    NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
                    VP 293KW- P.I 1:43.8 WNTN 1:33.5

                    Comment


                      #55
                      Originally posted by Supashake View Post
                      My LS drysump was about $900 total
                      Any links or details?
                      NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
                      NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
                      VP 293KW- P.I 1:43.8 WNTN 1:33.5

                      Comment


                        #56
                        Whats another car?! Lol
                        Originally posted by 50RTD
                        Dave, have you uploaded the data from the carby?

                        Comment


                          #57
                          Lightyear you have to remember that a street car vs a race car is like cat and dog. I would listen to TK if your filling the rocker covers and hit a hard turn and the pick up go's dry for one millisecond that's it at the right revs.

                          Comment


                            #58
                            Yep you're broken haha

                            Fucking envious of $900 dry sump setup.

                            Kroozer it's all on ebay,according to that Holmart have 2 available.
                            an easy fix is get a mate to drive in front of you at 60 then 80 then 100 and mark in on your speedo with some liquid paper.

                            Comment


                              #59
                              Good luck parting out the VL....

                              Get ready for the all time low dealing with flat brim, comoodore people.

                              Comment


                                #60
                                The motor should be no different to a race car motor. Except for the dry sump. He said it has a baffled sump, but I would like to see how baffled it is.
                                If I can get a dry sump that works for $900 I will be all over it.

                                I know of one guy that runs a good sump and accusump and has had no issues.
                                NA8B 89KW- P.I. 1:50.1, WNTN1:38.0, SDWN 1:27.6, WKFLD 1:10.4
                                NB8B 181KW- P.I 1:43.8, WNTN 1:32.9, SDWN 1:22.0, BDFD 1:05.3
                                VP 293KW- P.I 1:43.8 WNTN 1:33.5

                                Comment

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