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Bitsa cheap as Open wheeler

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    Great Stuff! That fiberglass bodywork looks sweet.

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  • rodoe
    replied
    Originally posted by Spammy View Post
    Could well be a BT 21...for some reason I had 19 in mind. Somebody told me they sectioned about 3 in out of the body to get to the FV size.
    Well, a long time between drinks. Financial ups and down, employment security issues etc, and all means nothing when you can't get race cars out of your mind.
    So I've stopped work on the first chassis as it just doesn't appeal to me as much as the 60's style racers. Then, while my wife and kids were visiting the mother in-law in Japan, I stupidly bought a little open wheeler which was too cheap to let go. Even came with a trailer. It is based completely on Renault 12 running gear on a simple ladder frame chassis (yes I know). Although rather a cleverly conceived car, in a budget conscious kind of way, its very agricultural in execution and has required quite a lot of work to get it up to scratch. eg- front top A arm 'trailing' rod Rose joint mounted in single shear, to give a healthy castor change on braking, front bulkhead suspension mounting points held on with 4 tack welds each, steering rack held in with more tack welds. I've redesigned and rebuilt the whole front bulk head and mounting points, gear shift mechanism, engine mount, made a dash fascia so the gauges are set in properly and not just hot glued onto the horizontal dash, complete re-wire, made a proper seat and safe harness mount points to minimise submarining, etc you get the drift. Removed the front and rear wings, which, although pretty, were really just huge rakes. The front being a flat 'flap' the rear being a curved sheet of 3mm alloy. Some downforce, but mostly drag.
    The yellow photo is how it looked after being built originally. The Black paintwork, quite nice actually, 13x10 and 13x9 wheels and the wings added by second owner. I will possibly put some wings on at a later stage and make a new nose cone as radiator is behind seat.
    About 60-68 horse power stock (depending on which Renault enthusiast you ask) and about 400kg. Nothing to write home about, but it's a start and will be fun.

    Then, I accidentally came across what I had been searching for while picking up a formula styled seat. An affordable 60's styled open wheeler body. In fact, the very same Standfast that SPAMMY was talking about on page one in this thread! Exactly what I was looking for and all for the princely some of $50 and it is brand new out of the mold but sitting for a few years (as opposed to $2000 for a second hand beat up Lotus 18 body offered to me last year)
    The plan is; finish fixing up this 'new' car, Log booked as 'Froggy', run it at GEAR days at Wakefield park and the odd hill climb and track day, while starting and building my dream car, roughly based on EITHER the Brabham BT21 or, one of my favourites also, the Honda RA272 ( gotta keep the Japanese wife happy) . Once that is finished (hopefully), then flog off the Froggy.
    In the mean time, picked up an accumulator for the ZX12R engine and will go back to standard sump so I can run stock exhaust under the engine thereby side stepping the massively expensive OR headache inducing exercise of making my own headers.
    So, now I have my old chassis back up for sale. I have sold the Formula Vee front end but still have the chassis up for sale, the one you see also on page one on this thread. I will be keeping the steering rack I think but the chassis, which is really quite awesome, is up for $500 of anyone is interested.
    Attached Files

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  • rodoe
    replied
    Yep. Waiting till VEE front end is sold to pay for balance bar, rod ends etc and maybe even steering wheel.

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    Pedal box starts with a balance bar from Mcgill.....

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  • rodoe
    replied
    "because you didn't want to do it more than once"

    Yep, still love those 60's racers and keeping enough left over bits in case that oportunity comes around.
    Often check out your build for motivation Roy (and inspiration- may need to copy your pedal box- simple).

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    If it was easy everybody would be doing it...

    Unless you've done it before, you will not know what you are doing, BUT, you will learn fast and before you are finished this one you will have a damn good idea how to do it better next time....which is a bit of a bugger, because you didn't want to do it more than once...catch 22

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  • rodoe
    replied
    Thx Roy. Off to Pick n Pay less Monday morning on way home from work.
    Nothing has gone easy on this project -nothing ever does when you've got no idea what you're doing and you're learning as you go 😁- but MAY have had a win in that diff has ended up in a position where i might not need to alter half shaft length if i use rear track standard shafts give.

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    I was using TJ Magnas 2000 to 2002 ( from 2000 the ECU could be reprogrammed and in 2002 they made the conrods a little less strong)

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  • rodoe
    replied
    4 x MX5 NA6 rear brake discs on their way.
    Next are Magna rear calipers. Are all models the same or what model did you use Roy?

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  • rodoe
    replied
    A fountain of knowledge, thanks Roy!

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    I used Magna rear calipers all round with a 3/4 " master cylinder for the rear and a 7/8" for the fronts and I use MX5 rear discs all round ( from memory they were from the first series MX5). I had to trim a little from the Echo rear hub to get it inside the MX5 disc.

    Note the rear pressure bias for the rear weight bias?

    I'll pluck a number out of my arse for the thickness of the disc ....6 mm ? Not enough to make a poofteenth of difference to anything. I'll have a look tomorrow.

    There is a circlip holding that bearing in, isn't there? Indeed even if there were not things are all bolted together, so the need is to stop the bearing outer turning. Loctite retaining compound is very good and getting the centre punch out and smashing some dimples inside the bearing housing to assist retaining the bearing helps.

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  • rodoe
    replied
    So got wheel centres drilled to 4x100 PCD at CNC wheels. Recommend these guys, great job and good price.
    So putting bearings into rear uprights. Heated uprights in oven and froze bearings in freezer. One fits in nicely with tap from hammer, other just drops in. Now at room temp, first one nice and snug, second one slides in and out as you can see on the youtube clip i made.
    https://youtu.be/WNHDtB4oxl0
    What do you guys think? Safe or not and how to remedy -was thinking some kind of loctite maybe. What are your thouhts?
    Also Roy, trying to get accurate measurents to do geometry. What is the face thickness (between hub and upright)of the rotors you used?

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  • rodoe
    replied
    And what rotors?

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  • rodoe
    replied
    Originally posted by Roy928tt View Post
    I use Magna rears, because the sliding half is aluminium and there is no integral handbrake gubbins, so quite light.
    What year are they Roy? Is that for the front and back?

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  • Roy928tt
    replied
    I use Magna rears, because the sliding half is aluminium and there is no integral handbrake gubbins, so quite light.

    Leave a comment:

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