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XR6 Turbo Circuit Racer

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  • Greg Rust
    replied
    Excellent.

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  • ahk068
    replied
    Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post
    Might as well make a rear diffuser
    Spare wheel has been cut out, boot floor is now flat all be it higher than desired. I've also trimmed the bottom edge of the bumper up. Diffuser is next but design hurts my head some
    Attached Files

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  • Greg Rust
    replied
    Might as well make a rear diffuser

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  • ahk068
    replied
    Originally posted by davel View Post
    Consider extending the air dam up to your flares so that it “covers” the front wheel. The more air you can guide around the front wheel, the less that gets dragged into the wheel well and causes drag. This could be a separate piece or integrated to your air dam to give extra strength but worthwhile doing whilst you have the fibreglass out.
    Had this exact thought looking at it last night. Front edge of tyre hangs out heaps so covering it would be helpful

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  • davel
    replied
    Consider extending the air dam up to your flares so that it “covers” the front wheel. The more air you can guide around the front wheel, the less that gets dragged into the wheel well and causes drag. This could be a separate piece or integrated to your air dam to give extra strength but worthwhile doing whilst you have the fibreglass out.

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  • Sprinkles
    replied
    Originally posted by ahk068 View Post
    Started the front splitter/air dam thingy

    it'll end up glass over ply. Under the engine is a big sheet of flat aluminium the goes back to the crossmember. it starts at the back end of the ply so the large rectangle cutout will slope upwards to meet it as the ply is about 50mm lower. My Google research says this should help downforce. I was also going to run a skirt along the outside edges of the chassis rails to keep air coming off the wheels from getting under the car, making a bit of a tunnel past the gearbox etc.

    Feel free to let me know if I'm way off track. It sits about 100mm off the ground which given my propensity to hit kerbs, grass, walls I'm not too upset about
    Keep an eye on your water temp. All your extra aero fruit *might* interfere with the air pressure behind the radiator. I think it will be OK, but just watch that guage first time out.

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  • ahk068
    replied
    Started the front splitter/air dam thingy

    it'll end up glass over ply. Under the engine is a big sheet of flat aluminium the goes back to the crossmember. it starts at the back end of the ply so the large rectangle cutout will slope upwards to meet it as the ply is about 50mm lower. My Google research says this should help downforce. I was also going to run a skirt along the outside edges of the chassis rails to keep air coming off the wheels from getting under the car, making a bit of a tunnel past the gearbox etc.

    Feel free to let me know if I'm way off track. It sits about 100mm off the ground which given my propensity to hit kerbs, grass, walls I'm not too upset about
    Attached Files

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  • Greg Rust
    replied
    Looks the business and good call about aero balance for the front end.

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  • ahk068
    replied
    So I'm calling this the corona wing. Sits out around door handle width and about 250mm high. Started as a $50 Mr Drifter off Gumtree. I added the Bunnings Dan Gurney flap and made the 3mm end plates. Design should be okay without being exceptional and I'll put together a glass over ply front splitter/air dam to balance it out. I need to brace it against the boot floor somehow as the boot lid flexs already

    I annoyed dalecunt for ECU advice and now have a Haltech sitting under my bed to go in the thing. I'll ask it to be tuned at around 13psi/350rwkw with power higher in the revs to protect the bottom end and just send it. Just deciding on dash option to go with it, hard to look past IC7.

    Hoping the next round early July goes ahead. I've copied a bit of Hislops rear suspension setup to get the arse of mine less twitchy so super keen to get the car under a minute minund Baskerville, no barra has done it before Click image for larger version

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  • ahk068
    replied
    more bits arrived.

    Will give me heaps more camber and castor adjustment and less marshmallow bushes
    Attached Files

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  • 200MPH
    replied
    Good call on fitting that and also going the cable operated option. Yes, they make checking the oil level a 'process', and it is something more to remember to turn on (and off!) to add to your pre-flight checklist, but they are magic things. Don't be tempted with the 'electric solenoid' option. They can get sticky (mine did) and you never can trust it. A valve on the other hand is foolproof, providing the fool operating the lever is not so foolish as to forget!

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  • ahk068
    replied
    waiting for all my parts to arrive so figured I'd fit this thing given I was going to plumb a cooler in anyways. Cable operated from in the cabin mean something else i need to remember to turn on.

    Had to rearrange half the engine bay to get it to fit but looks neat where it is.
    Attached Files

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  • ahk068
    replied
    Originally posted by blingcommander View Post
    Throw a territory front lca bush in, rather than the normal one Superpro supply, no voiding so feel better on off brakes
    good feedback, thanks

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  • blingcommander
    replied
    Throw a territory front lca bush in, rather than the normal one Superpro supply, no voiding so feel better on off brakes

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  • oldracer
    replied
    yeah crappy day ahk, I would also have a look at your rubber, we were running nearly new nakang AR1's and developed a massive front end vibration, couldn't work it out, took it back to our suspension guy and it took him a while but we had an internal delam happening in the middle of the tread, have had this in two tyres now so check ya rubber inside and out, hope all comes together for the big dance in a few weeks, good luck

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