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Datsun 1200 ute X R35 GTR

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    I need to figure out this staggered shit as well cos I need to make sure tyres are available to keep the rolling diameter the same.
    3D scanning
    3D modelling
    Structural certification
    3 and 5 axis milling

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      Originally posted by PLAYA View Post
      That was the plan I was reading a forum yesterday about what ones, do U know a list of available?
      its a small list
      TE37
      ENkei GTC01
      Enkei PF01
      Some koyas I think
      Varrstoen TE37 knock offs

      Thats old research now though, so it might be better

      Originally posted by blingcommander View Post
      Do 18 inch meisters fit over the brakes? have 18x9 +20 and 18x10 +30
      not a chance in high hell, I wanted to get the BBS LM's for my car but even they wouldn't clear my oversized front rotor (400mm up front)
      Anything with dish is a no go in 18" the barrel is usually smaller diameter to make it all work, does that make sense?
      www.vapeboss.com.au - big discounts for PF Cunts, PM me for a code

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        buy barrels and I'll machine custom wheels, lol

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          Originally posted by PLAYA View Post
          I need to figure out this staggered shit as well cos I need to make sure tyres are available to keep the rolling diameter the same.
          1.5% difference in rolling diameter is ok for the AWD system, you can actually get a Diff controller by KAPS which allows you to set the front to rear bias and have 4 or 6 maps doing so, its an awesome bit of kit. Not that expensive either
          www.vapeboss.com.au - big discounts for PF Cunts, PM me for a code

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            Originally posted by tc josh View Post
            buy barrels and I'll machine custom wheels, lol
            Lol so I priced up 7075 at 15 a kg wheel is about why 2500 in raw alloy lol. I don't know if U need 7075 but even 6061 be what 8 to 10 a kg
            3D scanning
            3D modelling
            Structural certification
            3 and 5 axis milling

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              5083 marine grade, cheap cheap, lol

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                Casting starts to look attractive at those prices...
                "Where can we get hold of a Vincent Black Shadow?" "Whats that?" "A fantastic bike," I said. "The new model is something like two thousand cubic inches, developing two hundred brake-horsepower at four thousand revolutions per minute on a magnesium frame with two styrofoam seats and a total curb weight of exactly two hundred pounds."

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                  Yea I would just go something off the shelf, only way to do it cheaper and machined is say a 3 piece with spun outers and inners.
                  3D scanning
                  3D modelling
                  Structural certification
                  3 and 5 axis milling

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                    spun alloy beats billet for any kind of repairs and overall costs,
                    so you are definitely doing the centres in billet to your liking?

                    Would be interesting to see some centres like the older school wheels but scaled up to 18+
                    eg. 5 pointed instead of 4

                    Comment


                      ^ on the topic above. could always do something like this

                      https://grabcad.com/library/ssr-reverse-mesh
                      https://grabcad.com/library/ssr-longchamp-sportrim-1

                      scale it to 18inch.
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                        Can recommend Craig @ Whitehorse Industries. He spun up some 16x10" rims for me and also some 18x12s to put my 16" centres into.

                        https://threepiecewheels.com.au/
                        Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

                        My Italian 510

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                          Originally posted by ROBAPHENT View Post
                          ^ on the topic above. could always do something like this

                          https://grabcad.com/library/ssr-reverse-mesh
                          https://grabcad.com/library/ssr-longchamp-sportrim-1

                          scale it to 18inch.
                          That is a great site, thanks for posting yet jap meshies dont seem to scale up well unless they had some
                          different surface taper like the BBS do. Maybe if you tapered it from the centres then extrude the spokes
                          out at the ends away from the bolt up area, bolt will be deep set overall really jumping out at you.
                          Alot of the ebay jdm classic cloned wheels just look to flat, cold and therefore cheap.
                          The beauty of the old jdm design is the 3d effect with crazy extrusions like the long champs or the the ones
                          I posted have a better overall effect when scaled up.
                          Theres a lot you can do with those cad files in changing the way the surfaces or certain lines sit on those centres,
                          love to see that done to the owners preference for his build if thats what he wants.

                          Comment


                            This guy is doing GTR driveline into a 1600 just for interest sakes. I expect this to be a bit more "high tech" but yeah

                            https://www.instagram.com/sklcustomwelding/

                            Comment


                              So I have been doing some more specing and research, I'm going to run the vr38 and R35 front diff. I will then use either a holinger or albins sequential 6 speed. Now there is two options, one is already done and one is a bit custom but either way is not "difficult".

                              I can run the sequential off the motor and bolt the R32 transfer case on the back, all been done and go back to a R32 rear diff. The issue that I am measuring up at the moment is the transfer could be under my seat and the 1200 isn't exactly made for space.

                              To get around this, and also get weight into the rear I can machine a custom clutch housing on the back of the vr with some bearings straight to a tailshaft. Then I bolt say an albins transaxle same as what they use in touring cars with an adapted plate on the front of it with the R32 transfer bolted to it. Then all I do is run a long tailshaft to the front diff.

                              This is a little harder and little more expensive. The transaxle is 26500 plus GST, I'll get 9k back for the R35 tranny so it's not so bad. Selling everything in the R35 I think I'll get the purchase price back and keep the motor which is not really a bad deal. Hopefully more.

                              I am scanning the R35 tomorrow with the bonnet open just to overlay on the 1200 to see how high this motor is going to stick up. From the tape measure it seems not too bad.

                              On the weekend I should know general layout and what driveline items I will use, and hopefully if my feet should fit lol.

                              From there I'll pull out this motor and try to sell the rest and then I'll design up the clutch housing on the rear of the motor etc.

                              Once I get to there I want to design up a chassis jig like one of those build tables that is a series of machines holes so I have a full table of datums.
                              3D scanning
                              3D modelling
                              Structural certification
                              3 and 5 axis milling

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by PLAYA View Post
                                So I have been doing some more specing and research, I'm going to run the vr38 and R35 front diff. I will then use either a holinger or albins sequential 6 speed. Now there is two options, one is already done and one is a bit custom but either way is not "difficult".

                                I can run the sequential off the motor and bolt the R32 transfer case on the back, all been done and go back to a R32 rear diff. The issue that I am measuring up at the moment is the transfer could be under my seat and the 1200 isn't exactly made for space.

                                To get around this, and also get weight into the rear I can machine a custom clutch housing on the back of the vr with some bearings straight to a tailshaft. Then I bolt say an albins transaxle same as what they use in touring cars with an adapted plate on the front of it with the R32 transfer bolted to it. Then all I do is run a long tailshaft to the front diff.

                                This is a little harder and little more expensive. The transaxle is 26500 plus GST, I'll get 9k back for the R35 tranny so it's not so bad. Selling everything in the R35 I think I'll get the purchase price back and keep the motor which is not really a bad deal. Hopefully more.

                                I am scanning the R35 tomorrow with the bonnet open just to overlay on the 1200 to see how high this motor is going to stick up. From the tape measure it seems not too bad.

                                On the weekend I should know general layout and what driveline items I will use, and hopefully if my feet should fit lol.

                                From there I'll pull out this motor and try to sell the rest and then I'll design up the clutch housing on the rear of the motor etc.

                                Once I get to there I want to design up a chassis jig like one of those build tables that is a series of machines holes so I have a full table of datums.
                                why not use the standard transaxle? is it an early or late one? think there is a relatively inexpensive fix for the early model "blow up the clutch basket" problem.

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