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Porsche 996 cup car

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    #91
    Originally posted by EnFlaMEd View Post
    Saw this out at AMF. Looks awesome dude. Such a great event!
    Cheers dude. Hoping they extend the track for this year, thereís been some talk of turning left after the chicane instead of right.

    Originally posted by FLI355 View Post
    Fixed
    ^^^ lol


    Thanks to McMulla who is an absolute legend and spent considerable time scanning through his old Motorsport mags from 2003-05 to send me all of the race reports and any relevant pics. He also managed to fine a handful of old race footage.


    ^^^ the team wore this Mossimo livery for about the first half of 2003 before Braun came onboard. Peter Hill (founder of Globe) was a driver and I think he had something to do with Mossimo.


    ^^^ this was fortunately not the car I have. Shannon OíBrien stood in for Alan Gurr at Bathurst in 2005 and managed to barrel roll through the chase. Needless to say that car was retubbed.


    A pic of the first batch of cars on their arrival into Aus in early Ď03.

    Comment


      #92
      This is awesome. A car with proper race pedigree and a history. Top effort digging it all up.

      Comment


        #93
        I decided to do a few small jobs yesterday on the car in prep for next weekendís Porsche Club supersprint.

        Job 1 was to replace the oil pressure sender. Itís quite common for this part to fail on 996 and 997 models of all kinds, usually resulting in the oil pressure gauge reading zero. In my case the opposite has happened and itís reading maximum at all times. The motec data also reads maximum which confirms itís not the gauge that is faulty.

        $165 part but fortunately only a 5 minute job to replace. Easy access with a 19mm spanner to crack it and was able to reach in and undo by hand. I am learning that the 996 cup is a rather easy car to do most things on given there isnít much in the engine bay.





        ^^ new part on the left, old on the right. The part number has changed by one digit so I can only assume Porsche have updated the faulty part with a different design.

        Job 2 was to replace the fuel filter. The road car interval is 6 years or 40K miles. I would assume the cup car is shorter, maybe a once a year thing or something if racing lots of kms per year.

        I first wanted to make sure I didnít spill fuel everywhere. The cups have a fuel drain point and a switch to run the pump so I decided to empty the 10L or so of fuel out of the tank first. Not essential but I hadnít tried it before so why not.

        Step 1. Locate the drain point


        Beneath the black rubber cap is a quick disconnect fitting.


        Hose hooked up and into the can. Numb nuts still
        managed to allow the hose to exit the can prematurely, spilling fuel!


        After getting the old filter out (10 minute job) the date shows itís just a little past the interval. Not surprising given it sat for 9 years.


        I decided to cut the old filter open for a look inside. It actually wasnít visibly dirty, discoloration is from my hacksaw blade. Regardless, Iím glad a new one is in place. When I have more time, I will pull the injectors and send them out for service as theyíve probably never been done.


        Final job was to bleed the brake fluid. First time Iíve used a Motive Power Bleeder and I donít know why I waited so long to buy one. Bleeding was a breeze and I could take my time. Brakes were last bled about 6 months ago and the fluid in the calipers was noticeably dirty but ran clear and bubble free very quickly. Having seen this Iíll probably just hook up the bleeder before every event from now on.


        Can anyone tell me a reasonable shelf life of brake fluid once youíve cracked the seal on the container? SRF is $120/L and I have 500mL left so would rather not waste it if I can avoid it.

        The only issue I encountered was that one bleed nipple was very rounded and difficult to nip up to a tightness Iím comfortable with. Iíll grab a new one from the dealer this week and throw it in before Sunday.

        Someone (Greg Rust) commented that they were keen to see some suspension pics earlier in the thread....

        This is the rear set up. They run a Sachs 2 way damper with helpers and remote reservoirs.



        And a shot of the rear brake ducts. The 996 cup and GT3 did not come standard with rear brake ducts, however the 996 GT2 did, and they fit with ease. I had these on my road car and pulled them off before selling it as I was hoping Iíd get a cup car at some stage.


        The front damper/spring set up is a little different in that the fluid reservoir is mounted to the shock body. The front strut on these cars can be rotated in order to gain more negative camber, then shims are used to fine tune.


        The cup also runs a centre lock wheel. These are really quick and easy to operate. Nip them up with a lithium rattle gun and torque to 460 Nm. Porsche also recommends cleaning the stub axle threads, wheel washer and wheel nut before applying copper grease to all mating surfaces every time you replace the wheels in a driving situation.


        And a pic of the front brake ducts. These are enlarged over the standard GT3 ducts with an extended section riveted on. They hang really low and cop a beating (hence the cable ties for added security). Porsche charges about $450 for a pair!! Expensive plastic but I have three full sets (I had two pairs left over from what I had previously fitted to my road car) and hopefully never have to buy another one.


        Over the past few weeks, McMulla being the absolute champ he is has been going over many old motorsports magazines and scanning anything pertaining to my car, Greg Murphy Racing and 996 era Carrera Cup in general. Thanks to him, I now have 150-200 magazine clippings which Iím very thankful for. He even managed to find a pic of the car being raced by the guy who I bought it from. This was early 2006 shortly after he acquired it from GMR. Up until now, I only had pics of the car painted entirely blue in his hands and wondered how and when this came to be. I reached out to the P.O. to ask if the car was all blue when he first bought it from GMR of if it had remnants of the old Glenfords livery. I never heard back from him. He paid $135K or there abouts in late 2005.



        Due to lack of pics, I never had any actual evidence that my car was in fact the yellow and red Ian Dyk car other than what the previous owner had told
        me. He admitted he wasnít that good at keeping records and since there were two other Glenfords cars, you just never know. I had discovered some remnants of yellow and red in certain areas on the car (insides of the mirrors, for example) but teams have been known to swap parts between cars. Example, the 14 wheels I have come from all three of the cars GMR ran in 2003-2005. I know this as each wheel was marked according to the race number of the car it belonged to. Anyhow, I digress! The pic above confirms that mine is the ex-Dyk car. If you havenít noticed by now, I love tracking history on everything so the pic above was great to see. Thanks again McMulla!

        Comment


          #94
          Castrol SRF has an epic wet boiling point so the shelf life issue is far reduced compared to the cheaper dot 5.1 race fluids that are initially great then go to shit when "wet"

          its the main reason to use it, you can leave it in for the year and even if its saturated it still performs amazingly well. if you were going to fully flush it every event then you'd just use a cheaper fluid with a higher dry boil rating.

          however, i still store mine in a flexible bottle and squeeze all the air out before tightening the cap as I tend to use a bit over a litre for a full flush and need to buy two 1L bottles at a time (ouch)

          Oo___oO

          Comment


            #95
            Originally posted by burn is weird View Post
            Castrol SRF has an epic wet boiling point so the shelf life issue is far reduced compared to the cheaper dot 5.1 race fluids that are initially great then go to shit when "wet"

            its the main reason to use it, you can leave it in for the year and even if its saturated it still performs amazingly well. if you were going to fully flush it every event then you'd just use a cheaper fluid with a higher dry boil rating.

            however, i still store mine in a flexible bottle and squeeze all the air out before tightening the cap as I tend to use a bit over a litre for a full flush and need to buy two 1L bottles at a time (ouch)
            Yep that was my understanding on why SRF is so good too. When I say before every event, I mean just to expel the fluid in the calipers, not a full flush. Probably only use 350mL of fluid each time so I figure a bottle should last me the best part of 12 months. Should be ok if stored indoors and air squeezed like you said?

            Comment


              #96
              I reckon.

              you could always test some in a small saucepan with a thermocouple in it after 12 months if you're the science experiment type.

              should be fine. keep moisture, UV light and gas atmosphere away from it and I can't see why it would degrade, and its certainly better off than the fluid sitting in your master cylinder reservoir that you're about to push into your lines during the bleed anyway.

              Oo___oO

              Comment


                #97
                Excellent thanks for the pics. Very cool.
                2017 Ford Ranger XLT (Jeep Wrangler recovery vehicle)
                2007 KTM 250 SX

                Originally posted by Monza
                I've never considered myself the type of guy to eat arse but I am currently reviewing that policy

                Comment


                  #98
                  Originally posted by burn is weird View Post
                  ...and its certainly better off than the fluid sitting in your master cylinder reservoir that you're about to push into your lines during the bleed anyway.
                  When you put it that way, itís a no brainer!

                  Originally posted by Greg Rust View Post
                  Excellent thanks for the pics. Very cool.
                  No probs mate

                  Comment


                    #99
                    Loving the detailed updates, comparisons between the road and race car and the history of the car.

                    Originally posted by spiller View Post
                    ... in prep for next weekendís Porsche Club supersprint.
                    I am giving the Evo a run too on Sunday, so I'll see you on the grid from my rear view mirror. :p Hoping for a cool change tho!
                    Mallala Motorsport Park - 1:11.71 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tY85CK31if8
                    Wakefield Park Raceway - 1:05.31 - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PREI-jK4L98
                    Mt. Alma Mile Hill Climb - 41.67 - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kTmaG8jn3Tw

                    Comment


                      This might be of interest to you:

                      http://www.webbimages.co.uk/chassisindexpage.htm
                      Originally posted by brewdles
                      In short, some cunt at test and tune had a 250cc honda turning to 11ty and it sounded porn. Do that.

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by Race Spec View Post
                        Loving the detailed updates, comparisons between the road and race car and the history of the car.



                        I am giving the Evo a run too on Sunday, so I'll see you on the grid from my rear view mirror. :p Hoping for a cool change tho!
                        Cool, should be fun! I think you'll be paired with Willall lambo on the front. I'll prob be dicing with some GT3RS in that case.

                        Originally posted by Bob Vegana. View Post
                        This might be of interest to you:

                        http://www.webbimages.co.uk/chassisindexpage.htm
                        Thanks for that, very interesting. Will take a look.

                        Comment


                          Nice updates man. x2 on the power bleeder - I bought the SP Tools one after headaches bleeding my Tilton setup. Quite possibly the single best car tool I've ever bought.

                          Very much OK to use that fluid also, as said. The serious guys change fluid as often as they put fuel in the bloody things.

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by BLO 767 View Post
                            Nice updates man. x2 on the power bleeder - I bought the SP Tools one after headaches bleeding my Tilton setup. Quite possibly the single best car tool I've ever bought.

                            Very much OK to use that fluid also, as said. The serious guys change fluid as often as they put fuel in the bloody things.
                            Thanks mate. Out of curiosity, do pro teams do a complete fluid flush every time or just get rid of the shit stuff in the calipers?

                            I have been comparing my data against Ian Dyk's (I got all of his Data from 2005 with the car, along with set up sheets for his and Coulthard). On the main straight at Adelaide, Dyk was doing 195 kph by the braking point for T1 after a minimum speed of 62 kph out of the final turn. My best was 168 kph with a similar minimum speed out of the final corner. He had a freshly rebuilt engine at the time which has since done approx 5000 kms. 23 km/h difference seems substantial in just a straight line situation. My throttle position data is reading 92% at max so possibly giving up a few ponies there and may need to look at re-calibrating the TPS...

                            Comment


                              You may also have been braking a lot earlier.
                              Rust is lighter than carbon fibre.

                              My Italian 510

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by spiller View Post
                                Thanks mate. Out of curiosity, do pro teams do a complete fluid flush every time or just get rid of the shit stuff in the calipers?

                                I have been comparing my data against Ian Dyk's (I got all of his Data from 2005 with the car, along with set up sheets for his and Coulthard). On the main straight at Adelaide, Dyk was doing 195 kph by the braking point for T1 after a minimum speed of 62 kph out of the final turn. My best was 168 kph with a similar minimum speed out of the final corner. He had a freshly rebuilt engine at the time which has since done approx 5000 kms. 23 km/h difference seems substantial in just a straight line situation. My throttle position data is reading 92% at max so possibly giving up a few ponies there and may need to look at re-calibrating the TPS...
                                Post Every session = caliper bleed.

                                Post Every race = full flush.

                                But every event would be fine for a weekender, usually pre-event when you do an alignment and susp check.

                                I'd hazard a statement that you'll never hit chassis PB's in a car past its top tier days, but it could be plenty of things. Different tyre spec' rolling resistance, old transaxle resistance, grip under throttle, brakes etc. Throttle map is definitely something to check esp on cars that get constant engine in / out and service intervals. But full race cars that live under WOT under track conditions just get slower the older they get, the more they are rebuilt. Usually engine related, but also chassis too.

                                Comment

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